Noca

Yeah it turned out to be both a driver issue as well as a dead/broken hmdi port on my TV I was using(port probably still died from the surge?). Simply fixed the driver issue using DDU and used another HDMI port.

I have the exact same GPU and it died yesterday from a power surge that tripped a breaker, only the artifacts were static/visual snow like effect, followed by progressively worse lines until no picture at all. I'm sorry I don't have suggestions.

The SATA mode is set to AHCI I'll just try repairing the GPT partition, if that fails I got my USB drive sitting here with the windows 11 installer on it still. I can always reinstall windows.

I opened up Crystaldiskinfo and all 4 drives are considered in "good" health. My nvme 970 evo plus which is my OS drive, is at 100%, another SSD is at 99%, another at 100%, and the HDD doesn't give a percent, just says "good" (Power on count 1826, Power on hours 10979).

I use lubed and filmed Gateron milky yellows for all my keys except the WASD keys which I use lubed Kailh speed silver switches. Perfect combination for an enjoyable typing experience and casual gaming.

So I am getting this annoying pointless error. I don't know what GPT header corruption is, but every 2 or 3 times I try to boot, I get this error which forces me to go into the bios, exit without doing anything and then it will boot. All of my drives work just fine, windows works just fine. Can someone please tell me what this error means and how to get rid of it or ignore it?

nope and nope

nope

Thanks. this works for chrome, sorta, having to launch with a shortcut isn't ideal but it will do. I also found edge has settings in it's menus that you can turn off all these power saving "features".

So I just finished setting up my new PC, installed all the latest Windows 11 updates and I noticed my web browsers (chrome and edge) were both running slow AF. I go into task manager and I see a new "feature" has been added that I didn't notice before from my previous PC using Win 10, "efficiency mode". Apparently, despite being on a desktop, set to high performance mode, no shortage of RAM or CPU resources, Windows 11 keeps putting all my browser processes into "efficiency mode" which sets them to resource priority. Turning this feature off (which you can only do one process at a time) only turns it off for less than a minute before Windows 11 decides it knows better than you and turns it back on. This leaves my web browsing experience sluggish AF, feels like I am browsing on a netbook powered by an intel Atom CPU from 15 years ago. WTF Microsoft? Apparently this is some bug dating back to March 2023 that Microsoft hasn't bothered to fix? Is anyone else experiencing this issue? Does anyone know of some registry edits to remove this efficiency mode crap functionality permanently? This PC is just overkill for a media PC, there's absolutely no reason it should lag in chrome or edge at all. 10700k, RTX 3080 10GB, 16GB DDR4 3200, 970 Evo Plus, 960Mbp/s download and 30ms loaded latency.

Actually I found a fix finally. Even though ROG Azoth had a disable windows key function which did nothing (fn + win) on or off, even though it showed that it toggled it on or off, the key itself wouldn't work. I found a guide to edit the registry. I had to navigate to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE> System> CurrentControSet> Control> Keyboard Layout , then add a scan map code with the values below, save, restart, return to this menu, delete the scanmap code I just made, then restart again, then toggle the windows lock on and off using (fn + win key) on my new keyboard and now it works. Why? I don't know. Just happy it works now. Also tested another keyboard on this computer and it's windows key now works as well. 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 03 00 00 00 00 00 5B E0 00 00 5C E0 00 00 00 00

I looked at that link and I turned off windows sync for Windows settings, I just can't go through another install again(too many hours wasted trying to get garbage Armory crate to work again). Plan on rebuilding my other computer this week so I will see if that change helps fix it's similar keyboard issues. My previous keyboard was an EVGA Z15 and the current one is a ROG Azoth(doesn't even have a windows key disable function). My other computer I had Ducky One which some onboard function disabled the numpad and I returned that keyboard, and now every keyboard's numpad will not work regardless of whether the numpad lock is on or off with that computer. It is definitely saving these options to the OS, likely registry somewhere but I have no idea where it is and Windows was tying these settings to my Windows License key/microsoft account.

So I have an issue, I was using some cheap EVGA gaming keyboard before, I activated it's Windows key disable feature so it wouldn't popup in games. I then got a new keyboard, and uninstalled the EVGA software, but the windows key was still disabled on my new keyboard. I reinstalled the EVGA software, reenabled the windows key which made the key work on my evga keyboard but not my new keyboard. So anyways, I recently got a new SSD and installed that, did a fresh install of Windows 11, thinking oh, whatever registry problem is causing my issue would be fixed. But apparently installing a fresh copy of Windows on an entirely new drive no longer matters, because Windows likes to carry over all the previous problems associated with the same Windows license key (not the keyboard key) over to any fresh installs. Wtf? I clicked every option I could find that I could during the Windows install to tell Windows that I didn't want to keep any previous files or settings but Windows doesn't listen. How do I get my Windows key on my new keyboard to work again? I have a similar issue with my other computer where I had a previous keyboard disable the numpad and now every keyboard's numpad will not work in Windows regardless of what I do.

I am building a media/light gaming pc with leftover parts. I have two PSUs lying around, a Seasonic X 850W gold PSU from 2013 which has had about 6-7 years of use, or a 750W EVGA gold PSU from 2021 that has had about a year of use. Both are fully modular. PC build specs are a 10700KF, RTX 3080 10GB ASUS TUF OC, 16GB 3200 DDR4, 2TB Samsung evo plus nvme, 2 x 1TB MX500 sata SSDs, 1 x 4TB HDD, Deepcool Castle 280EX AIO, Deepcool CG 540 mid tower case.

How do I setup remote play anywhere steam link from one PC to another PC NOT on my home network? I cannot find a single guide describing the steps on how to do so. I can get it working on my home network but have no clue how to do so for one PC to another that is outside my home for remote play co-op.