Jump to content

pwn_intended

Member
  • Posts

    2,782
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by pwn_intended

  1. 1 minute ago, Khalid al hoshan said:

    If that's the case what should I do

    If you open the computer and are greeted by a lot of dust, clean it out, make sure that the CPU fan can spin. Turn it on while its still open and confirm that the fan is in fact spinning. Once its on, try to see if its gonna crash on you. If not, you probably fixed it.

    If it crashes then you may have to pull of the cpu cooler and re-apply thermal paste.

     

    To monitor the temperatures of the cpu, use a program such as realTemp or even MSI afterburner.

  2. As long as you don't force it, you cant really damage anything.

    Pointy with coarse thread? As in it looks like something you would put into wood or plastic instead of into a threaded hole? Those are likely for fans (though including 6 instead of 4 or 8 is weird) or to actually hold your case together.

     

    Also, you will ALWAYS have tons of leftover screws from your case when you are done. Do not worry about that. Pretty much as long as everything is held down somewhat securely in some way, your computer will be ok.

  3. 3 minutes ago, Santhox said:

    The case i was thiking about was the Node 202 so airflow will be good i guess?? My 2nd option is running with the Raven RVZ01 instead because it's abit taller i can run the Noctua NH-L9x65 instead of the l9i and maybe i can then run the fan at abit lower rpm for less noise and still get better temps? Do you think it's worth getting the slightly bigger case? or do you tihkn i'll be fine with the node? sorry if im asking alot of questions but im about to spend a lot of money and i kinda want to get it right.. :3

    The node 202 essentially has 0 airflow. The only fans in that case are the cpu and gpu fans themselves. As in the case doesn't actually have any fans in it. You can add 2 case fans, but just on the GPU side, so your CPU would still be hot.

     

    Chances are that it would run OK, but I would definitely expect a little bit of thermal throttling after gaming a while.

     

    As far as case choice, get whatever suits your need. If you really want to build a tiny form factor PC (I assume that's why you chose the 202) then go for it, make it work and don't look back. If the actual size and physical appearance doesn't concern you that much, then just get whatever is cheapest, and building in a full size tower is generally much easier to do.

     

  4. This has nothing to do specifically with your case. Case screws (especially the ones that attach hard drives and other hardware) are totally standard.

     

    Basically, gently try threading the screw in the hole, once you have a match, sweet. Do not force anything as you don't want to strip the screws (or maybe you do, I don't judge)

  5. 1 minute ago, 27md said:

    Completely free and it syncs your cloud drives? Yea, I would stay the hell away from anything like this since you will be required to give them your login credentials for all your accounts....not to mention they then also have access to all your files. Not saying that the company itself is malevolent, but hacks and shit happen, and the fewer companies are trusted with your passwords, the better.

     

    If something is free, YOU are the product.

  6. Microsoft services and google services do not like each other.

    You will have to re-upload. Try using your internet connection at school as the upload speed is generally waaaaay better than what youd get at home. If that's not an option, either buy a faster internet package (with higher upload specifically) or just deal with the fact that your computer will be uploading for a week or 4.

  7. There is a good chance that the i7 will perform better if you are streaming and gaming. Also, the 4XXX stuff should be MUCH cheaper than the skylake stuff. Just don't buy it brand new.

     

    For pure gaming, they will perform largely the same until you start going into high framerates (90+) in which case the newer 7600 would perform a little better.

  8. 3 minutes ago, Dawson Wehage said:

    Yeah, but Embedded has less features too so. the start menu only has the desktop app. Nothing else.

    Embedded? I dunno anything about running that. I do know that the win10 version is called IoT core, but I have never actually used it so I cannot give advice on that.

    GL mate.

  9. 2 minutes ago, Dawson Wehage said:

    Yeah, Windows 10 seems to hate my PC, the internet cut out all the time, sometimes the PC wouldn't boot. Though I am building a new pc soon. But atm I am selling my current PC. And it will be stock Windows 8.1 because Windows 10 doesn't like it.

    Sounds to me like you may have had some driver issues in windows 10 because it should definitely perform better than 8.1.

     

    Also, 8.1, IMHO, is totally unfinished software and 10 beats it in every. single. way.

  10. If the bios is freezing even before windows attempts to boot, but works with the other CPU installed, then the problem is likely the CPU itself and nothing to do with windows.

     

    Do a BIOS update on it to be on the safe side (remember, updating the bios generally resets all settings to default) but it sounds like the new cpu may not be good, or it doesn't like your ram for some reason.

  11. 3 minutes ago, I_guess_memes_are_ok said:

    Im asking in this forum it should be general for all phones , the model is stated above

    Missed the oneplus one part somehow...

    A few years ago, it wasn't general as not all manufacturers used fused display+glass assemblies. Now adays, almost all phones are fused, and separating the 2 is an exercise in futility. I have done it, but it took many hours and I ended up breaking the lcd panel after replacing the glass only because I used too much of the LOCA (liquid, optically clear adhesive) glue on it.

     

    The guide posted above is good, but it looks like you will need to buy the entire screen assembly and not just the digitizer.

  12. SATA mode needs to be set at whatever it was set when you actually installed windows. So if you installed it initially with ATA mode, you will need to use that. The other settings I can think of are CSM and legacy boot, you may have to enable/disable these as well so that it is configured in the same manner it was when windows was initially installed.

     

    If you don't have a problem with re-installing windows one more time, do that, and do it with AHCI selected and CSM/legacy boot off. Do this with the new CPU installed.

     

    I never trust the driver updater utilities since most of them are spyware/crapware. Manually download and install them.

     

     

  13. 15 minutes ago, Blackhole890 said:

    I3-2100 to xeon e3-1230 (also, just installed fresh w10 and updated drivers through driver booster)

    I'm assuming you're running this on the GA-H61M-S2PV listed in your bio.

     

    Well the Xeon is listed as a supported CPU, and it requires the same BIOS version as the i3 you pulled so that shouldn't be the issue.

     

    Now the thing is that when you pull the CPU out of the socket, your BIOS will reset. Chances are that you will need to change your SATA operation mode from ATA/RAID to AHCI (or vice versa if that didn't work)

    Also any other BIOS settings you had changed before would need to be changed back.

  14. If you are still playing all the games you want to just fine, then don't upgrade yet.

    Wait and see what AMD brings, and then in turn what intel will bring after that.

     

    When you do end up upgrading, I would recommend at looking at something with 8 threads (i7) instead of an i5 because core count is finally beginning to matter for gaming, and I am sure that it will start becoming even more important over the next while.

×