tjd10684

Your probably on to something rather than a Dremel you could use a slitting saw or a jewelers saw to do basically the same thing but a bit faster. You might have to get creative with the fixture but I see no reason it wouldn't work. Actually if you look closely at the EK supremacy fins that may actually be their method of manufacture. Edit: I just looked up slitting saws on MMC and they have them in widths down to 0.006 cost is under 30. .... I might just have a new project in the works.

That is only sometimes true G1/4 threads are based on BSPP (British Standard Pipe Parallel) making it a straight thread similar to a machine thread. There is also an ANSI standard called NPS threads that are straight as well. You find them on fittings that rely on a method of sealing other than just the thread interface itself.

This is correct but from the specifications of G1/4 threads used in water cooling fittings the threads have a not as standard 55deg included angle rather than the more typical 60 deg found in ISO and ANSI machine thread specs. Because of this its possible that they were not able to find a full set of taps like you have shown. Also when tapping a hole all the way through piece of stock its typically not necessary to bottom tap. Just run the tap all the way though to the end of the threads on the tap. As long as the material is thinner than the full formed thread section of the tap you will have full form threads all the way through the material. From the video though it looks like they were using a plug tap (that's perfectly fine) they just needed to give it 3-4 more turns to get the full thread to the back side of the acrylic.

Its very rarely a good idea to flame polish acrylic. Melting the surface introduces stress into the material that WILL cause cracking eventually. You would be much better off polishing with Novus polish with a hard felt cloth. If you must flame polish then you need to anneal the part to even out the induced stresses.

Well thanks I would think the back plate would not have gotten that hot when loading the log in screen lol. Good to know though and I'll keep that in mind on the next one. Already checked the RMA date from amazon and I'm good till Jan 31 so thats good at least. probably do it tomorrow. Now that I know this I probably didn't have to wipe my boot drive just remove the card. Oh well I don't install much to c anyhow just Fusion 360 and chrome.

Well that doesn't make for a great Christmas present.

I have been fighting with this all day. Around noon today I get a message from the nvida gforce experience center (or whatever) saying that there is a new driver for my card. Well I watched the Jays two cents video on how much better the new drivers are so I decided to update them. Well thats where it all went down hill. Downloaded it and installed it then figured I would do a quick benchmark to see how much difference it made. While running timespy the screen locked up and started displaying those omega symbols over both screens. I tried to stop it but it was not responding to inputs. So I figured maybe it just needs to catch up strange but possible. So I let it sit for about 5 min. Nothing. Figured a hard reboot was in order and I would go back a driver revision. After the hard reboot to my surprise windows would not load...... so i got out the boot stick and tried a repair..... nope..... pulled the video card out unplugged all drives except the boot drive and tried again switched on onboard video.... nope... wiped the hard drive and reinstalled windows. Its working now, well at least I can get to an os. plugged all my other drives back in and its still working. downloaded nvidia driver 416.94 the same driver that the card came with. Installed the video card still running monitors off onboard video. Installed just the driver. restarted and plugged monitors into rtx2080 I get the post screen and the windows loading screen but as soon as the password screen should come up it locks and or restarts. Pulled the video card back out and I'm running onboard video again. When taking the card out the second time I noticed that the back plate was pretty warm like warmer that I think it should be. Not burn you hot but I would have to say over 100 freedom units. So is this sounding like a dead card to anyone else?

Like using 5k worth of equipment to fix a $1 problem. you know what they say anything worth doing is worth overdoing right?

Much better solution if you don't have the tools but since I have the tools I might as well use them. This also cost about $1.00 in material and it took longer to put together the post than to actually make the parts.

Its on its way lol. Its been needing some more light under the GPU anyhow.

So I have been looking at my build and I noticed that my GPU did not look right. Like it was sagging sooo I figured I would get some measurements and make something to fix it. Measuring the droop from the mounted end to the sagging side. It was drooping 0.164 in (4.16mm) Next I needed to get a round about measurement from the psu shroud to the GPU A quick fusion 360 design to double check some numbers and its off to the lathe. I was going to make it out of aluminum but since I found that I had some white delrin the right size I figured that would work perfect. Turning the Base of the column Turning the top of the column with the adjustment thread. after installing and adjusting I got the droop to 0.000in Also tested to make sure that there is no fan interference. Glad I found the the delrin since it blends pretty well with the rest of the black and white ascetic. Well now I think its done ... for today.

Much better. A little solder and double checking diagrams later. The vga wires are as they should be and it feels better now lol.

Ouch I think if I had to do a 24 pin I might just spluge and go to digikey pick up a new connector body. cut the wires crimp on new ends and then replace the body. Alas no. I was hoping to put the fans for the AIO on the inside of the case to make sure they had enough breathing room. The front pannel is pretty close to the fan mount and I don't want to starve them. But with the gpu being the size it is it just would not fit. Maybe with thinner fans but not the ones I have right now.

What mobo? I just finished a build kinda similar to yours. I'm running an Asus Prime Z370-a and in the bios there are some quick tuning options for over clocking. it asks you some questions about your use case and cooling and gives a suggested safe overclock. I think it was about 20% with a gaming use case and liquid cooling for me. How about your boot drive? Using an m.2 drive was the best thing I can think of as far as program load times. I'm using an 970evo m.2 500gb drive as my boot drive and then a MX500 1tb as my game drive.

When it would not boot up though I was mostly just concerned that I might have a DOA card. Now that I know it works I'll get that last cable. If for no other reason than because I can lol