chnapo

Hello there. Reasoning (you can skip this paragraph, just so that you know why I am not doing the "obvious": I am on a journey on figuring out how to fix long boot times without reinstalling the OS. The reason being that I often encounter people who have old programs that can´t be bought anymore, the companies don´t exist anymore, so they just bring over their SSD to the new computer. Reinstalling the PC would have dire consequences for them. But after some time, the windows take 5, 10, 15 minutes to boot, even with good SSDs. One thing it led me to, is reading boot logs. I found that these machines that take ages to load have one thing in common - a lot of BOOTLOG_NOT_LOADED. I understand that they prolong the windows startup time because windows for some reason cannot load them and is retrying a lot. There are dozens of instances of the same BOOTLOG_NOT_LOADED entry. I understand that after a certain amount of tries, Windows just stops trying and doesn´t load it. I´d love to figure out a way how to tell Windows not to even try (for it may be trying to load a driver from old installation for example). Also, Apple has Verbose mode startup where you can see everything line by line, but I have never seen anything like that on Windows and I have looked a lot. An example of repeating log entries: Compliant Control Method Battery BOOTLOG_NOT_LOADED @cpu.inf,%intelppm.devicedesc%;Intel Processor BOOTLOG_NOT_LOADED @cpu.inf,%intelppm.devicedesc%;Intel Processor BOOTLOG_NOT_LOADED @cpu.inf,%intelppm.devicedesc%;Intel Processor BOOTLOG_NOT_LOADED @cpu.inf,%intelppm.devicedesc%;Intel Processor BOOTLOG_NOT_LOADED @cpu.inf,%intelppm.devicedesc%;Intel Processor BOOTLOG_NOT_LOADED @cpu.inf,%intelppm.devicedesc%;Intel Processor BOOTLOG_NOT_LOADED @cpu.inf,%intelppm.devicedesc%;Intel Processor BOOTLOG_NOT_LOADED @cpu.inf,%intelppm.devicedesc%;Intel Processor BOOTLOG_NOT_LOADED @UcmUcsiAcpiClient.inf,%ucmucsiacpiclient.devicedesc%;UCM-UCSI ACPI Device BOOTLOG_NOT_LOADED @oem204.inf,%devicename%;ASUS App Component BOOTLOG_NOT_LOADED @compdev.inf,%compdev.devicedesc%;Computer Device BOOTLOG_NOT_LOADED @oem223.inf,%camodriver.devicedesc%;Reincubate Camo BOOTLOG_NOT_LOADED @oem4.inf,%intel_dev_9a49%;Intel(R) Iris(R) Xe Graphics BOOTLOG_NOT_LOADED @cmbatt.inf,%acpi\acpi0003.devicedesc%;Microsoft AC Adapter BOOTLOG_NOT_LOADED @cmbatt.inf,%acpi\pnp0c0a.devicedesc%;Microsoft ACPI- BOOTLOG_NOT_LOADED @oem223.inf,%camodriver.devicedesc%;Reincubate Camo

I would kill for an advice, but this problem makes zero sense to me. Please, read it, laugh at my stupidity or my misfortune. Prologue: PC was built some years ago at some company. Started its life as Windows 7 PC with Intel i7 7700K, Asrock Z270 board, 16GB RAM, 500GB SSD Samsung 850 Evo, 1TB WD Blue HDD and GTX 730 GPU (it was a workstation) and was updated to windows 10 somewhere along the years. The build quality was not great (as I am figuring out now) - some connectors are slightly bent and the boot partition is actually on the HDD and the windows of course on SSD (actually a common issue at some point, I remember I had to remove HDD in order to have all important partitions on the SSD). MBR and legacy boot. Nothing that would make it not work though, but the partition problem may be important later. Some months ago, owner of this PC became afraid of losing his programs that would be hard to find now, so he started backing up images of his drives via Macrium Reflect. Talk about foreshadowing... The less important problem (I think you can skip this one if you are in hurry, but who knows, it might be related): My friend and owner of this PC (and a very responsible, older man) came to me a week ago that the PC doesn´t turn on. Like not even a fan spin, nothing. I found only one issue - dead CMOS battery. I first thought yeah, dead PSU, replaced it and indeed it worked. But, then it didn´t. So I replaced the old one back and it worked. So, not the PSU. Then the issue stopped appearing and appears only randomly, removing and re-connecting the 24-pin helps in 90% of the cases. Reconnecting it several times helps eventually. I talked him into upgrading to i5-12400 + a new mobo and a new PSU, because this was obviously a motherboard issue and for his work, the CPU was slow anyway and the PSU wasn´t exactly cutting edge either. The upgrade never happened, because: The main problem: Right after getting the PC to start again, we expected it to run as before, naturally. But no. The windows would first take its usual 10-15 seconds to boot, then made a boot sound but instead of the login screen, the dots just spin in a circle on a black screen. What is curious - the cursor can be moved. This goes on indefinitely and doesn´t move any further. Well, we have a backup, perfect, right? No. I restore the backups to a different SSD and HDD because I didn´t want to endanger his files. But the OS doesn´t give a login screen neither from current SSD and HDD, nor from backup. Nor on a different PC. The curiosity: Before, I was always only trying to restore the SSD backup. But then, a certain combination worked. I restored the SSD image to a new SSD, HDD image to a new HDD and in combination with certain BIOS settings it seems, it worked. I managed to log into the system, browse the files, launch programs. I quickly backed up the BIOS settings and made sure to write down the exact steps I took to make it work (because at this point I was 5 days in, trying countless options of fixing the bootloader, windows, autorepair and what not, and not once it has crossed my mind to try and restore the HDD also). Done! Right? Wrong. Fast forward to today, today morning I did something extremely stupid. I told to myself - well, I could try to run it with the old SSD, maybe the issue was in the HDD part after all. Ihappily turn the PC on and what do we not get - the spinning dots on a black screen with cursor. Okay okay sorry dear PC, you don´t like your current OS, I give you the backup once again. So I, just to be sure, repeated all the steps I have done before, something is better than nothing. Done! Right? Wrong. The exact same steps, with the same BIOS settings, don´t work now. This issue is driving me mad. How the hell can I restore a backup of perfectly good image and it sometimes works and sometimes (98% of times) not? What sorcery is behind this? List of things that I tried: Fresh windows install - worked, but didn´t get me anywhere. Dude does some important volunteer work and can´t afford to lose his programs, so fresh install is not an option. Repairing boot sectors Restoring from different backups, all made when PC was running just fine Running the SSD, HDD and their combination in a different machine. What happens - windows logo with dots spinning and "Preparing the devices" (sorry if the translation of the text isn´t correct, I have windows in my mother tongue), after the drivers or devices are prepared/installed, just a black screen with no dots, nothing but the cursor - or dots spinning and the cursor. No windows logo in either case. New SSD, new HDD All sorts of automatic repairs from restore environment or boot USB, they always fail Different RAM, repasting the CPU, checking for bent pins (although any HW fixes should be futile after seeing it not work in a different, perfectly working machine). To add insult to injury, while writing this, I just put the old HDD and SSD into the PC and IT NOW WORKS. Just like that. The PC is just mocking me. I have no idea how or why. Could it have something with the microsoft account log in? Because he is using online account, not offline.

I have 2 routers - one Mercusys MR30D serving as the main router and one older TP-Link serving as access point. Both provide a 5GHz wifi, TP-Link wifi is called "TP-Link_AN8BDI" and Mercusys wifi is called "Mercusys". The problem is that the SSID on Mercusys wifi will change to "TP-Link_" and it is a very curious problem, changing its own wifi SSID to a shortened name of the other wifi. Also to that new wifi, neither of the wifi passwords works. I set them manually to different channels (TP Link channel 40 and Mercusys channel 36), I live in rural area so there are no other wifi signals that would interfere, I made sure meshing is off. What could possibly cause the issue? Also, when I log into admin on Mercusys, it still think the SSID is Mercusys. The only way to solve it is to reset the router and then it will hold the SSID for a few minutes or hours, changing it later again to the same "TP-Link_". My Mercusys admin password should be very safe (it isn´t "admin" xD). EDIT: Yeah, I can and will RMA the Mercusys router, but I am too curious and also don´t want to RMA if it is a config problem.

Want to make a project using laptop motherboard, can I use any 40pin edp screen with same or lower resolution or do some boards have to be compatible or whatever?

Owner does have a proof of ownership, so we will try to go down that path, but as far as I read on forums, HP support was as helpful as to provide a price quote on motherboard replacement.

Which one is that? I didn't know it was there.

Hi there, So right now I have a relatively new HP laptop in my hands (pavilion gaming 16-a0000nc s/n 5CD0358DSB europen version), fixing it for our school and it has a bios password lock. The problem is that regular ways of removing HP bios password don't help. It doesn't go into bios with esc or f10, into startup menu, resetting cmos with win+V does not remove it either and after typing it wrong 3 times, instead of 8digits starting with letter i I can only see recovery via HP usb recovery key. Is there something that could be done about it or we can just throw it into the garbage?

So bro, check this out. This whole lot of nonsense was pretty useful after all. After replacing the thermal paste, laptop can do 3.4 GHz all-core and even managed 3.8 for a short burst. That´s not bad compared to 2.8-2.9 GHz all core boost that was before driver updates that ruined the performance (that would have come sooner or later anyway). It can now cool 34W instead of 28W. 6W of extra cooling and 0,5 GHz extra sustained boost does a significant difference in such a small form factor. CB score went from 1800 to 2160. That´s exactly 20% extra performance, more than you can achieve by overclocking a desktop these days.

Guys I have a fix, (my thorttlestop was poorly configured, found that out when I was about to post screenshot for chickslaya, some MMIO was not locked - found that randomly because the values were similar to what I saw with behavior so even though I don´t know what MMIO means, it was blocking my TDP). Thank you all for your time and advice. Now able to sustain 3.0 GHz all core at 24W and that is before paste.

About doing nonsense on a laptop that is running normally. I am not doing nonsense and the laptop isn´t running normally, let me explain: 1. Running at 100 degrees celsius without fans kicking in isn´t "normally". It´s not THAT bad and THAT unique, but in my book, that needs to be fixed. - logical first steps to fix are to update the drivers and OEM software that takes care of thermals and performance. I see (or better said, saw) few reasons to back up an image of her 400GB worth of data just to update the drivers. Not messing with bios at all. Second step that I did not manage to get to is to replace the thermal compound. I have seen as much as 15 degrees worth of difference just by replacing a thermal paste on a relatively new laptop! You wouldn´t believe how crappy it sometimes can be from factory. 2. After updating the drivers and software, laptop lost more than 50% of its original performance. That is unacceptable, especially for someone who uses it for work. If she wanted crappy performance, she would have bought a pentium, not an i5. - logical steps are to try and revert changes that were made 3. After reverting as many changes as possible, laptop is still lacking 28% of its original performance (instead of gains I hoped for, back with unrestricted TDP that it originally had aside from intel restrictions). Still hard to live with if you use the performance it provides on daily basis. - logical step is to consult the forums as I have done all I could I know the laptop has poor cooling. But if the fans ramped up properly and there was a better thermal paste, it would run much closer to its potential performance, which is good 20% higher than the original performance. Who could have known that updating the drivers will cut it to half without being able to recover it easily. Future me? for sure. Past me? not. I have done CMOS reset, tried to uninstall as much as I could from what I have installed, checked the bios but no changes were made there, tried defaults. Everything except a clean install. Why did I come here? Well, not to hear that I messed something up, that I already stated. Not to hear that I need to do a fresh install, even kids know that fresh install fixes 99,9% of problems. I am here in hopes that someone has had similar problems with throttling on a model as similar to her as possible and has already figured out a solution. Maybe someone will say that I should try a particular setting in Throttlestop or disable a certain service in W11. Also not trying to be rude, but I am not here to hear a general statement of my situation and basic solutions. I am not THAT new to the stuff and yea, I work with laptops a lot, have fixed bad thermals on vast majority on them, had never ran into an issue like this, that the throttling would get WORSE and could not be reverted. Thank you for your time though, that you have spent reading and responding, I appreciate it bro. Also the clean install is the path I am willing to take as I mentioned, but only after finding out if it helps.

Will post in a minute, but I must disclose that I am able to control PL1 and PL2 power limits, but the controls have no effect no matter how I change them.

I guarantee that 400GB of random junk is NOT the issue, because when I received the computer, the only thing wrong about it was the fan behavior. Which was the result of the settings done by dell´s power management software. The issues came when I updated the drivers and software. Also, I can guarantee that there is no bloatware, more like 400GB of videos she works with, pics she takes for her work, some unreal engine projects etc. She is not dumb, she can build and sets up PCs herself and knows very well what not to put on her PC.

Oh yeah forgot to mention, there are 400GB of files and programs that are probably not backed up so factory reset is my very extremely last resort. What I am currently trying to do is to put in a different SSD and make a clean W10 install to see if the behavior changes. If that helps, factory reset will be on the table. But not as an attempt. Only if it is a 100% fix.

Hi guys, I desperately need help. The more I am trying to fix it, the worse it runs. There is Tl;dr in the end. My best friend came to me with her laptop (Dell Inspiron 7405 P126G i5 1135G7 MX330 8GB RAM 512GB SSD W11) that it doesn´t run her (rather old) games well. Testing time - cinebench. CPU first goes to max turbo, hits 100 degrees in no time, stays at 100 degrees for a while - throttling down the core clock and then slowly cools when turbo times out. Cinebench R20 score around 1800. Not bad, but i5 1135G7 should do better. Problem is that fans start kicking in AFTER the CPU is already heavily throttled (about 1GHz bellow max all core turbo). Ooookay. Thermal paste will get replaced and fans set up. Tested the game. Game ran poorly because it was running on iGPU. Easy fix. But now the CPU and fans behavior bugged me. So I moved on to install notebook fan control, thinking that I will manually ramp up the fans. Then the voice came from Dell engineers: You have no power here! And it was right. Notebook fan control could not control a thing. I googled why. On some stupid dell forum, there was a stupid advice to update all of my drivers and some software, namely chipset driver, dell power management. When browsing drivers, I also found something called Intel Management Engine Interface Driver and Intel Dynamic Tuning driver. I said to myself, words "dynamic" and "tuning" sound damn good. Also while at it, downloaded new Nvidia driver. Installed all driver and software updates, windows 11 update, installed, restarted, ran cinebench, made sure the Dell power management was in the maximum performance mode (I did not know about the dell power management before). Ran cinebench. My heart suddenly sunk into a black hole. CPU was hard throttled at 10w, sitting at 1.4 GHz all core. Damn, I was getting over 3 GHz before. What the hell?? Googled the dynamic tuning driver, uninstalled, CPU managed to reach 15W or 2.2 GHz. Still far from original values. BTW the "Cool" mode runs fans faster than "maximum performance" mode in Dell Power Management. Wish I knew that before, would have saved myself so much trouble. Uninstalled the Dell power management, CPU now reaches 18.7W for 5-6 seconds (2.4-2.5 GHz) and drops to 15W (2.2 GHz) and temps are in low 80s, fans at medium speed. Cinebench score 1300 at best. That is more than 25% drop!!! Installed ThrottleStop and set it up according to a tutorial to no avail. There is no option to remove power limits as in the tutorial. Yes, I have the latest version 9.5 ... I need to return the computer. I cannot return it running almost a GHz lower all core boost to someone who already complained about lack of performance (not only in the game, but also while video editing etc.). She IS going to notice. I understand that Dell Engineers wanted to fix the overheating, but damn, please, first name the bloody modes correctly, second, if your CPU runs at 100 degrees celsius, it MIGHT BE A DAMN GOOD IDEA TO RAMP UP THOSE FANS RATHER QUICKLY. The solution is not to throttle the CPU with some driver update. Oh yes and there seem to be no restore points on that computer. Tl;dr: Fans did not ramp up when CPU was at 100 degrees fast enough. Was able to reach 28W. CPU thermally throttled. Notebook Fan Control did not help. Dell said: update drivers and bloatware. Updated. CPU got throttled to 10W. Uninstalled what I could, but CPU is still power throttled to 15-18W and runs at 73% of the original performance. No thermal throttling. What to do?

Hello there, so I have a curious problem, when I use Google Chrome and I make an order, after 5 or so minutes it shows error "link, that you have followed, has timed out" (roughly translated as it shows in my native language). When anyone else uses their chrome on their PC for the same task, this does not happen. If I use Firefox for the same task, it does not happen. I went through all the settings, I am not blocking cookies and there is nothing seemingly out of order. What is not an option: Using another browser. I need chrome for reasons, eventhough I hate it. Deleting all user data from the chrome (I can delete cache, but not history or tabs etc.) Has anyone had this problem, or does anyone know the solution? I am not looking for general advice such as "restart your computer" "reinstall your browser" or something like this, I would like to know the exact issue if you have experience with it. Thank you!

Solved - it was virus. Windows deffender on W11 would detect some stuff and remove, but it seems that it did not catch all, even with deep scan that took overnight. I ran malwarebytes and after 5 minutes I am virus free. At least it seems so. My keyboard works OK again.

See photo - this key, when tested, registers only one clicks, but always writes two characters - in my language, it should write " ´ " and it writes " ´´ ". No other key does this. I doubt this is a mechanical issue because when doing keyboard test, only single stroke gets detected, so it should be software issue..?

Thanks. Also there are no limits as per video length?

Can it be powered via adapter or battery only? Because from what I have seen, battery only

But are we talking the very first one?

I would go with RX 6800 XT / 6900 XT or RTX 3070 Ti / 3080 / 3080 Ti here. Somewhere in this range.

I am not dead set on anything, because aside from some main requirements, it all comes out of my very limited knowledge. But I would be glad if you could explain this a little more - what features, what will be the advantages? EDIT: What would look better, Blackmagic Pocket Cinema (original FHD one) or a consumer 4k camera such as Panasonic HC-VX 870? I could buy the BlackMagic for about 300 eur (without lens and equipment) or about 450 eur with (not expensive) lens, 128GB SDXC, extra batteries, adapter, or SONY HXR-MC2500E for about 600 eur (which is double my budget though).

Hello guys. I would like to buy best bang for the buck video camera to record some workshops. It should be as cheap and as good as possible. The GTX 1070 of cameras. Old, but still great. Current state of affairs - all video recording is done using Redmi Note 8 phone. What I'd like: Something better than Redmi Note 8. Decent 4K would be nice. Ability to change ND filters would be nice. Audio input is a must (jack or xlr) as well as ability to run from an adapter. HDMI output in case it would be used to live stream. Ability to be used on a stand. What doesn't matter to me: battery life. It will almost exclusively run from plug. OIS is nice to have but not all that important. It can be used, actually I'd prefer used. Price target: 300 eur. Can be less. Can also be more, but please persuade me that it's worth it. I don't want to buy GTX 1630 of cameras - new and rubbish. I know little about cameras - what should I look for? How is for example Panasonic HC-VX 870 for 250 eur?

That can be true but why does it work outside of games in fullscreen mode then?

I am using native resolution, the blackscreen comes due to change in refresh rate. That is just a simple way to see that, as you describe, game is not following the desktop settings. I would understand that, but why does the game sometimes force 100 Hz, sometimes 144? It almost seems like it forces the value that it first ran with and I have no idea how to change it...