toxsickcity

Hey LTT peeps, I have a fair bit of Computer experience, building pcs going on 30yrs. god im old. I have dabbled in Overclocking here and there.. but find these intel chips a bit too much going on with overclocking there is too much setting for cpu overclocking in bios these days and don't really wanna bork anything. I have a 12600KF and runs 1.3v locked P Cores to 5GHZ Stable as can be.. have not played around too much in bios to push it harder etc. TBH I find that locking the voltage to 1.3 and 5ghz allcore the system has become more stable then leaving everything on auto and trying to hit 4.9/5GHZ I was happy to see 5GHZ was doable. When I get the 12700KF I will be interested to see if I can push 5ghz or more 5.1/5.2ghz Can anyone give me a good starting point. or is 1.3 good to go for these chips. any additional guidance to other voltages to play with as everything else is auto! Is it worth setting per core load overclocking eg, 1 core 5.1ghz 2 cores, 3 cores etc? or leave at all core? maybe the instability is the per core.. and voltage piss farting around. These chips do run a bit warm, managable with my Open Loop, but I might go ahead to set a WATT Limit to relax it a bit with All Core Loads. especially this summer. Cheers Shaun.

Renaming the windows update folder (software distribution) Would be wise?

Hi I have a windows 8 laptop on its way to me from a client with the error C0000034 applying update operation xxx of xxxxx The customer has mentioned that she moved the mouse to wake the laptop and saw this message on the screen. Seems like a botched windows update.. Regarding the laptop, it's running windows 8.0 The laptop must be on windows 8 due to an accounting package which doesn't work on 8.1 or W10! So I am really wanting to fix rather then rebuild the OS This is what I have attempted so far. I have tried over the phone to get then to run startup repair which doesn't help. I also tried running them through the common command prompt fix (running notepad to find that .XML file and edit) which that .XML file did not exist in the winSxS folder. I have tried running into safe mode which shows the same error C0000034 There are no system restore points to recover to either. Anyways, Trying to research this as much as I can before the laptop arrives. So I can actually try to fix this. Rather then reinstalling from scratch. Thanks Shaun

Didn't work unfortunately. Just does not detect the device. Just plays audio at flat equaliser.. A bit boring I might say. I might have to get my HDAV Xonar and find a driver for it.. but don't have anywhere to install this sucker.

SB1090, i think its just the standard one

Hi, I found this in my stash of old bits and my motherboard audio just gave up. I plugged it in and have sound automatically but no way to adjust all the goodies the X-FI has to adjust.. (crystallizer etc...) does anyone know if there is a home made driver pack somewhere for this USB Sound Card? Cheers Shaun

Reply of the year! Thankyou mate, you explained this like a champ! Totally makes sense and was a great read! Good to know the benefits of dual rank dimms. I remember a review where they tested dual channel with 2 vs 4 dimms populated! And results were interesting. Performance was slightly better which surprised me. Would that benefit you mentioned about dual rank skipping the calls / nanoseconds of time.. etc? That would maybe apply to 2x DIMMs on a single channel / 4x DIMMs on dual channel? I also saw diagrams where ddr5 have two channels on a single dimm.. Is this server memory?

Hi all I've been having a good think about things and am curious about ram dimms and memory channels. If a CPU had a 2 channel mem controller How is it some boards have 4 slots? I don't understand that! Is the motherboard doing the trickery to bring two slots into one channel? Or is the actual memory channel on the CPU allows for two actual sticks of memory. I also read about single and dual rank.. this has something to do with it Would like some definition here haha Cheers

i performed a reinstall of windows anyways, sometimes spending too much time on a problem is more time used!!! cheers

Another thing comes to mind.. it doesn't explain the high thermals. But if you locked at 300mhz. Maybe you plugged monitor to mainboard instead of your graphics card? And your trying to game from the onboard CPUs graphics. But like I said. A GPU shouldn't hit 90c Not unless it's over locked highly or thermals are poor.. and usually in all cases thermals ramp up slowly... Over time..

Everything your describing sounds like throttle The GPU thermals are at 90 which is way too high the GPU clocks down to 300mhz which is the idle speed or something. So I take it you run from pump, to CPU, then to GPU then to radiator then back to pump? So CPU could be feeding GPU hotter water? Maybe download GPUZ Goto sensors and photo the sensors when idle and under a load. Personally I don't like the way the thermals are so high with out much effort something is wrong. I suggest powering down here on and just look over the components. No1 would be dismantle the water block from GPU (if you put it on yourself) and make sure you can see bonding between the water block and core. There should be an imprint of the thermal compound.. like rubbed together. Maybe check the pump is operating? I have seen in some cases the fan speed in bios at low speeds don't turn some pumps. I have also seen if powering pump by molex it may be a loose connection? You need to double check everything.. One way to know if the water block and GPU isn't right if the thermals jump up to high real quick like within a few seconds... I need more info. Some photos of the rig, the loop hard to diagnose as is right now.

Sounds about right The GPU is cooking itself.. Did you apply the water block to the video card? Maybe it's not installed properly? Maybe you should explain more about the rig Is the water loop through the CPU also? Does the water feel hot?

No, no.. Have you ever taken your installation of windows. And plugged your HDD to an entirely new PC.. It will go through a process to detecting your hardware and installation of the new configuration. Takes maybe 10minutes to complete.. It's a really good feature of windows 10 allowing you to if you need to move your installation of windows 10 across multiple devices.. I would like to think this so called rebuild of hardware configuration may solve my issues with this PC..

Hi I want to know if there is a registry setting to make windows do that thing where it detects your hardware when you move HDD to a new or other PC. It reruns the hardware detection and installation phase of setup again. My customer system is doing some really weird stuff with drivers and hardware and wish to try making windows actually do that rebuild thing Does anyone know what I'm talking about? And know how to switch that on say for next reboot? Regards Shaun

Sure it just not overheating??? Check fan and heatsink is con properly I doubt it's CPU seating.. Check windows power setting and set as high performance Download hwinfo get some screenshots up Maybe some photos of your bios screens...