CupONoodles

So I’m well acquainted with doing a V Bios flash to unlock the 1.35V on the memory for my V56 but that has the unfortunate side effect of my card showing up as a V64 in 3D Mark, not helpful going for in-class high scores. Is there any way to push the Memory Voltage while still maintaining a V56 to 3d Mark? (I saw someone with a V56 pushing 1100MHz memory (in 3dmark) which i refuse to believe was done on 1.2V, since i was maxing out at 955MHz at 1.2V and 1180MHz on 1.35V... unless LN2 since HMB2 scales with temperature) Similarly, is there a way to push the max core voltage beyond the maximum allowed 1200mV? I know that LC bios’ allow up to 1250mV but again same issue with 3D mark plus i had some weird power or temp throttling feedback loop.

Sorry, I know, vague question but for context, I’m planning to buy the new R5 3600, or possibly a 3700(x) depending on pricing/budget. The 2 motherboards I’m currently looking at would be the Asrock b450m pro4 or steel legend (leaning towards the steel legend), and then the Asrock x570m pro 4 (GN had a picture of it from Computex). The X570M according to GN has a 8+2 VRM while the B450 motherboards have 4+2 from what I can gather. Is it important to have those 4 extra phases when overclocking a Ryzen 5 or 7, or is the performance/stability difference nominal? Sort of related is wether PCI-E gen 4 is really needed at all, but for my use case I *probably* won’t need it seeing as I’m running a Vega 56 right now, nor have the budget or use case for any Gen 4 SSDs, let alone in RAID. I get that since neither Ryzen 3000 or the X570 board have been out for reviews yet everything is speculative, I’m more curious about the ramifications of different VRM configs.

That what I was suspecting, I've reverted back to the stock higher power 56 BIOS but do you think lowering the power target would help any?

Hi all, I just got my Vega 56 and after doing control benchmarks I decided to jump straight into doing a Vega 64 Bios Flash. I have an Asrock Phantom Gaming model which as far I know is reference (I mean the cooler is reference so I think it's pretty fair to say). When I load up the Tomb Raider: DOX demo and sit in the first scene, with clocks in P7 down to 1552 MHz and the power target at +50%, I get wild power consumption occilation and subsequently the clocks follow suit. I should also note that the fans will ramp up and then slowly come down only to ramp up again and repeat. I'm using the Vega 64 LC bios since the other 2 would not give display out when I flashed them. I tested this on the default power saving BIOS and no such issues. Any help would be appreciated

So something like this? And just press the power switch for MB and the back of the PSU at the same time? https://aphnetworks.com/tutorials/psu_paperclip_trick

So I’m currently running a salvaged Lenovo Thinkcentre which has a proprietary PSU. I’m hoping to build a system from scratch this summer for Ryzen 3rd gen. However I saw a good deal on a Vega 56 but since the PSU I have had no PCIe power, would it be a problem to run 2 PSUs, the proprietary one for the system, and something like a CXM 550/650W on the GPU? Otherwise the only other option I see would be take a chance on the V56 not being available later in the summer or pulling the trigger on the rest of the system. tl;dr: is it safe to run 2 PSUs on one system?

Honestly, for only browsing, I think an Intel NUC might suit your needs, plus take up a lot less space. NUC- $260 US 8gb DDR3- $50 US 240GB Crucial SSD- $40 US for a total of $350, plus it already has wifi and Bluetooth and according to Google, it translates to 300 Euros-ish. Granted it is all based on US availability and pricing but I'm sure you can find similarly spec-ed parts. EDIT: I forgot windows so add another $100 for home or so

Ohh I see... Thanks that makes a lot more sense.

So from my understanding hyperthreading/SMT allows a CPU to take on two tasks from 2 threads at once, giving an illusion of simultaneous operations. My question then is it still useful when desktop CPUs have 6+ cores in the case of a Ryzen 5/7 or an i7? I can understand how this made sense in CPUs with 1 or 2 or so cores but is it really necessary to run that many things in parallel with 12 or 16 or even 64? Or in multicore tasks does it provide any performance benefit for there to be more threads. The way I visualize it there's still only 6 cash registers they just add more lines and jump between them, the speed isn't increased physically, there's just more lines to pick from. Or I could be totally wrong and completely misunderstand all this.

Hi all, I'm looking to eventually buy a wireless TKL keyboard (as the title suggests). I'm looking for something that is cheap, preferably under $40. I don't need a mechanical keyboard, though I do really like the feel of my current keyboard, which is a typecover cover of a Surface 4. Something low latency would be good since I am still looking to game casually on it, however, a keyboard that has an overall lowkey look would be nice. (No "gamer" look, just something lowkey but functional)

Brand I could care less, as long as it’s built well. Same about the racer it’s just something that was laying around the house. I wasn’t sure what the price ranges were, since I’ve seen anything from 15 to 150.

Hi all, I’m looking to buy a new mouse, something wireless. I was looking at the Logitech G305 but I was wonder if anyone knew any alternative mice that were similar but cheaper, granted $50 I’m pretty sure is already on the lower end for mice. I do game casually but I’m really looking for something for all around use, as well as something without an obvious ‘Gamer’ aesthetic would be a plus. For reference I’m coming off a Logitech Racer.

Awesome, thanks!

I think anything between 25” and 32” should be pretty good

Hi I’m currently looking for a monitor for both casual gaming and photo/video editing, 1440p, with 60hz being perfectly fine. I also am hoping to have something with good color reproduction and coverage as well as freesync but depending on how the GPU market changes this coming year that may or may not be as important. I’m currently looking at an AOC Q3279VWFD8 (which is 1440p, 60hz, freesync, has 10 bit color, and goes on sale for 250 every once in a while) and don’t want to spend more that 300

The motherboard I'm looking at (an MSI B450m Mortar) has a second M.2 Slot but only supports PCI-E 2 x4. Will this bottleneck say a 970 EVO? (I assume so) and if so what would be an appropriate drive for said slot.

Thanks! That'll hopefully save me $50 or so.

So I'm looking for a mini-ITX motherboard (they're more expensive but I need a SFF) to pair with a Ryzen 7 1700x but I'm sure whether I should go with an X3/470 or a B450, as well as a reputable/ high-quality board.

Personally, I would go with solely a 1TB or 500gb 860 evo. The 1TB is $130 or so (500gb sits around $80, the same as a 120ssd+1tb mechanical) and ultimately more expensive than a 120ssd+1tb barracuda but, for the performance I think is worth it though it depends what you plan on doing with your drives. If you plan to store lots of photos, definitely go with a mechanical and save the money; or if you only use it for programs and like word documents I think in the long run the larger SSD storage will benefit your. For system files, programs, and misc documents, I’ve found 500GB to be plenty (assuming you’re not stockpiling AAA titles). Personally the laptop I use uses 256gb ssd and I have an external 1TB for photos and videos I take (it has about 200gb right now) and 256 is useable but at least 500 would be a lot nicer with more headroom.

I've narrowed my search to 2 motherboards, the Gigabyte B450 I Aorus Pro w/ wifi and the ASRock B450 ITX w/ wifi Long winded explanation of differences: TLDR; the Gigabyte model has more USB 3.1 G1 in the Rear I/O, though not more total USB connectors, has less 1 less fan header, newer Bluetooth, mounts the m.2 on the front of the motherboard, and looks nicer; compared to the ASRock Equivalent So the question is, as of right now, the gigabyte model sits at $115 US, $25 more than the ASRock one at $90, although I think the price might go up again because of a sale to $110. So is it worth it to buy the gigabyte model, with the ASRock at both the $110 and $90 prices Also, I know that Mini-ITX Systems are more expensive compared to a m-atx or atx but that's not my point here.

So just to be totally clear, with a PCI-E x4 m.2 installed, I will be capped at using 2 SATA drives, for a total of 1 m.2 and 2 SATAs

I'm currently doing research into a build and while comparing AMD chipsets, specifically the storage support, there was some compatibility I don't quite get. On AMD's website, the B450 chipset supports Does this mean that I will only be able to use 2 of the 4 SATA 6Gb headers to connect to SATA drives (ok duh what else are they for?) if I use an m.2 ssd in PCI-E x4 mode? This is all with a motherboard from my understanding that a PCI-E m.2 doesn't interfere with the PCI-E 16x for the graphics card (currently looking at the ASRock Gaming/ITX w/ wifi) plus a Ryzen 5 2600. AMD Chipset Chart

Yeah, I'll be going to college in a year so keeping it small would be extremely nice, plus my desk area is a little limited on space, I'm aware it drives up my prices in the MB and PSU department $100 or so but the small form factor would be much much nicer for me. I had also read that an ATX PSU chokes the GPU somewhat due to their close proximity.

Hi everyone! My goal is to build a PC for video editing and photo editing, as well as gaming, in Premiere Pro as well as Photoshop/Lightroom, currently only 1080p in h.264/h.265 converted to DNx (don't judge, I'm still learning) , but I do expect that to go up to 4k as camera technology changes. I’m hoping to use a 1440p monitor (in the part list), with a slight possibility of adding a second in the future though that’s unlikely, and have it be somewhat future proofed (hopefully 4+years) in gaming, though I’m ok with cranking down settings for frames as it gets older. I do want to try my hand at some basic overclocking. I’m also hoping to fit it into an m-ITX tower for some portability, I realize that this probably will limit my OC-ability somewhat. I’m in SoCal and am looking to keep the build within about $1000, not including the peripherals. I don’t have any current hardware, including a monitor or keyboard, though I do have access to Windows 10 already. The current config is based around a Ryzen 5 2600 and an RX 570 8GB. Part List PC Part Picker Link System CPU Ryzen 5 2600 Most likely am not buying terribly soon (possibly not until the summer, or later) so I'm unsure whether to just hold out for Zen 2 with the Ryzen Gen 3s and get a 3600 Graphics RX 570 8GB (Parametric Filter by Lowest Price) Mostly looking based on price though trying to avoid a red card Motherboard MSI B450i Gaming plus AC Fricking Red accents but wtv. CPU Cooler Hyper 212 EVO Black Still not sure about color scheme but figured black was a safe bet RAM Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x8GB 3200 Nominal Price Difference from 3000 Storage Samsung 970 EVO 250GB M.2 for boot+a handful of frequent programs (no files though) Storage (2) Samsung 860 EVO 500GB 2.5" For everything else All Premiere Projects, Lightroom Cats currently live on an external hard drive. I use a laptop currently and will continue to do so, so most of my files won't ever permanently live on the internal hard drive though if my workflow does flip to storage internally and working off hard drives, when needed then I can upgrade down the road/when NAND prices (hopefully) go down PSU EVGA Supernova GM 550W SFX Sized to give GPU a little more breathing room, though it does cost considerably more than a similar ATX one I know this might be a little more than I need but hopefully the fan is a tad quieter There is a corsair alternative though this one comes with an SFX-ATX bracket and is more appropriately rated power wise for my system (the corsair is 450 or 700) Case Fractal Design Nano S Most likely the windowed one Thermal Paste Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut I know I know its expensive but I don't plan to switch coolers a whole lot so I don't mind spending the money when I need to reapply. Case Fans Be Quiet Pure Wings 2 140mm non-PWM (x3) 2 intakes on the front, 1 exhaust in the back Mostly chose these for the value plus relative queitness Don't plan on using PWM due to lack of MB fan headers Fan Controller 2 Way Manual Fan Controller I figured I didn't need anything fancy and since my MB only has 1 case fan header as noted above... This is the most bare-bones controller I could find Optional Cablemod Cables+asthetics I'm considering cables in either white, black, or white+black considering most of the system is black (except the motherboard with those darn red accents) and white I figured would be a nice accent. These will probably be purchased after the build is finished. This is also assuming that the current lowest priced 570 is the MSI Armor Mk1 though it has been trading places with an ASRock one which is also white and black. I might also buy a 12 or 24 inch white magnetic LED strip if I realllllllly feel like it 1-24 Pin ATX Power 1-8 Pin CPU Power 1-8 Pin PCI-E Power 2-24 Pin Combs 4-8 Pin Combs SATA as needed from Amazon since its the same price + free shipping (same price if I order with my entire cablemod order) Sata Power is mostly hidden exept a little bit that connects to the PSU I will need a Molex to 3 pin fan but I can pick one up at frys or amazon for like $4 in all black or really just hit it with a little paint either way. In total the cablemod stuff is about $90 and totally-non essential. Peripherals Monitor Acer G247HYN 23.8" 2k 60Hz I get that 4ms isn't optimal for gaming but I'd rather take the IPS display I haven't done my full research into a monitor so some must haves would be obviously 60Hz, 2k, something decently sized, ideally 24" ish but give or take a few inches in either direction, and an IPS display for better colors. Would be nice(s?), 10 bit color and freesync; once it starts pushing past $300 unless its a terribly good value I'll stick to the cheaper ones. Keyboard Redragon K552 Kumara RGB I wasn't feeling the red of the non-RGB keyboard so I'm willing to spend $5 to make it white This keyboard got decent reviews on Amazon so I'm not overly concerned with it. Mouse Pictek Gaming Mouse A friend of mine got this mouse and it's cheap and I don't have any problems with the way it feels or clicks or anything Plus RGB so white lights The price of the system (no perephs/custom cables) is around $1020ish Adding in perephs brings it to $1270ish Plus cablemod crap brings it to about $1360 For this entire build I'm willing to do some waiting for sales and aquire parts over time to hopefully cut prices a little since I have seen fluctations in the 2 weeks I've been narrowing these down. Thanks for reading through, I'd love any feedback you guys have.