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demolitionGoat

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  1. I bought it years back new and rarely had the opportunity to run it full load. I can't rule out that i disturbed it though i was as careful as i could. The before/after was night and day though. It's not silent but it's quiet for sure now when used normally and even under some solid load. The paste wasn't overly dry so I doubt that was it. I guess if it's rarely a thing i can rest easy when i get my next card eventually.
  2. Since i bought my 2070 turbo (a blower style card) i always thought it was just it's build type that made it as loud as a jet engine when under load. Recently i decided to just clean it. Turns out you have to fully disassemble the thing to get to the fin stack. In the process i found out that the thermal paste on there was just terribly applied. Not at all covering the whole die. Have any of you guys had similar experiences? Should one just open cards up every time after purchase?
  3. Of you feel confident you can make the work look really good and leave the buyer with a professional looking cable managed clean ready to use product... Why not try it out? If you cannot do that I'd bet it's gonna be a tough ride.
  4. Maybe a different control scheme? Did you actually have an object with enough vertices to sculpt? Also... Did you say you wanted to sculpt a sprocket? Just create it in edit mode. I am really struggling to find ways in which you could not be able to sculpt in blender...
  5. We'll see how the cooling goes in the future. I am happy for now and as long as it works... easthetics is also a value . That thing looks like it'll do the job though... holy moly that is a lot of heatsink.
  6. I'll post some stuff soon. I did not make all too many picture of details during the process as i found out (my memory was a little wrong there appearently), so i need to... dramatically reenect some of it i guess xD.
  7. Afaik, yes. https://www.asus.com/Graphics-Cards/TURBO-RTX2070-8G/
  8. I have the blower style equivalent from Asus and so far i have been nothing but impressed. It cools very well even under high workloads and is not even very loud under load. Maybe your card is bad or maybe that model is bad xD. Not saying it has to be that way but i would not rule out the possibility.
  9. We'll see i guess. Technically that stuff should be pretty resistant to vibration. I have one hdd and one ssd. If the hdd comes a little loose after a while i'll comment again. I think the velcro should still be massive overkill for a single drive. Actually... just to be safe let me google vibration and hdd's. Edit: Back from google. From what i could find, hdd's vibrate to a very small degree but are actually in danger if subjected to vibration. Since the velcro should decouple the hdd a little that would make it even safer, since i have a subwoofer not too far away from my pc.... that is as long as the hdd does not come loose
  10. That is so simple a solution, i did not even think of it... maybe velcro tape though, so i can actually remove them.
  11. Hi Guys, I just wanted to share the result of my first custom PC adventure. Here's a Picture of the completed build: Here's the hardware list: PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU Intel - Core i9-9900K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor $484.99 @ B&H CPU Cooler Noctua - NH-U9S 46.44 CFM CPU Cooler $59.95 @ Amazon Motherboard Asus - ROG STRIX Z390-I GAMING Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard $199.98 @ Amazon Memory Corsair - Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory $261.00 @ Amazon Storage Western Digital - Green 240 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive $49.89 @ OutletPC Video Card Asus - GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB TURBO Video Card $771.80 @ Amazon Power Supply SeaSonic - FOCUS SGX 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply $117.63 @ Amazon Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total $1945.24 Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-05-21 05:33 EDT-0400 Shut up! I need a 9900k for REASONS! The general idea was to create a case with direct airflow pretty much directly from bottom to top in the smallest doable form factor. It's not perfect by a long shot but then again i am no craftsman of any sort. With it now running and having gone through a few benchmarks and stress tests I found that i can comfortably run the cpu to a clock of 4.9 without the fans going crazy or temps going over 80 degrees. The tower cooler is definitely sufficient. The GPU is also suprisingly silent for a blower stly card but definitely the loudest part of the system. If i were to do it again i would probably not take a blower style card again but it's really no big deal. The system is overall almost inaudible even under some light load (i.e: games) The GPU will of course be audible when doing a render. If anyone is interested I'll pack out some of the pictures i did inbetween and share the build process. I am also open to any questions or suggestion of course. Update: Here's some pics and description to serve as a little bit of a buildlog. half of those are "reenactments" though, since i did not make many pictures while building unfortunately. The initial idea: I had this old can for imported olives that i liked the look of and so i had the whacky idea of putting a pc into it. I made a first prototype... which worked insofar as it fit the can over it. I realized though, that the whole construction was a little to shaky while also being pretty heavy, so i started again: I created this model in blender of how it should look like. It has all the components in it and should fit since it is all to scale ... or so i thought. I went to building then... Here's a tutorial on how to do teethed connections the dirty way. Don't do this in front of a woodworker. They might just murder you. Draw the teeth (preferrably with a breadth that is a divider to the total length, so that there isn't one little tooth at the end): The depth should usually be the same as the depth of the plate. Set a tablesaw to the depth and draw it towards the plate holding it like so: # Be careful doing that of course. tablesaws are dangerous. I recommend putting a second sacrificial plate behind the first one, so that the first plate does not fray. Lastly... you use whatever you have or the actual 90° clamp to put the two together after wood glue was applied: Now.... before any of this... which i did not do... you should make all the holes for screws. In my experience the tons of glue used in good layered wood should easily suit the needs of pc screws. I used a sacrificial plate to determine the right sizes for the holes. You could trust the measurements of the screws but why not try is before using it to hold hundreds of euros of hardware. Everything else was pretty much just holes and screws. There is only more truly custom thing: I made clamps to hold the PSU from brass: I put felt in between the metal and the PSU to absorb vibration. At this point i realized, that the components would firstly not fit as intended and secondly that i had not considered how much space cables need. I had to rethink the arrangement and ended up with something like this: I then rebuilt my blender model: It came out something like that. The final form is a compromise, since most IO is at the side, which i wanted to avoid but i am pretty happy with it. I then bought acrylic glass, cut it with a tablesaw (not recommended. dont be cheap like me and get an acrylic cutter.) sanded the sides down up to 800 grid and drilled holes with a metal drill. be careful when punching guide holes for the drill. acrylic is pretty easily cracked as i had to learn. I drilled holes into the sides of the case and inserted threaded bolts until about a cm stood out. I then cut off the head of the bolts. The glass goes over the bolts and is held with wingnuts. As you can clearly see, i painted the case with varnish before installing the hardware. The feet are currently a temporary solution. I am not sure what to do for fee yet. I taped a patch of airfilter sheet from the internet to the bottom to filter the intake. Also a temporary solution right now. If there are any questions left open i am happy to answer.
  12. Greetings fellow Nerds, I have created a pc case from layered wood and acrylic Glass. Picture of it is below. Now that i's running, i'd like to take the 2.5"" drives from my previos pc and just take them over to the new one. It have come to the realization though, that it is kinda difficult to mount drives in there in a solid and visually satisfying way. Basically only metal sheets work, since the mounting screws are so short. I have some space over the PSU. The current idea is to reuse 3.5"" mounting plates from a sacrificial pc and bend them to then screw them to the side. Has anyone had this problem before or does anyone have an idea for a solution? All ideas are very much appreciated.
  13. Buy an adapter bracket for 2,50 off amazon?
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