Thijsvu

Thanks for the reply! My ISP does support "bring your own modem" Already talked with them about Voice, the Employee told me I could use SIP, so I assume they would let me do that. When i Search for SIP Converter it's unclear for what I'm looking. I was thinking there'd be a little converterbox that would plug in to Ethernet and has an RJ11 out. I did find this; GO-Box 100 + Premium 100HX handset. where it looks like the Ethernet in is Directly synced to the Phone. We have a 250Mbps Connection, so the Archer is fast enough.

Hello, I have a ISP Provided Modem/Router. (I have a "Nokia XS-2426G-A" and a "Nokia XS-2426G-B", Both have the same issue) They can't be put in Bridge, and when i change settings on the device, they aren't honoured. So i was looking into getting a Bridged modem. I found an ONT that should do this for me; Huawei OptiXstar EN8010Ts-20 Now I am using my Landline. I do not see a RJ11 connection on the ONT and my own Router doesn't have one either. I talked to the ISP, and they were talking about SIP Trunking. But I have one DECT (One Base Station and 1 extra Station), and do not need a Dedicated VoiP server. I do however have a Raspberry Pi Zero 2W (currently Running Pi-Hole, but due to Modem not honouring DNS it's not working) I was wondering if anyone can help me how to get Voice working with my ONT and my own Router. I have one Adress with a Retail space and a Private living space. So I have 2 networks, one for the Store and one for Private. Modem / ONT > TP-Link Archer C7 (would like this to be in Router mode, do want to use this network for business)> TP-Link DECO M4 (Acces Point, for Private) I have been looking just changing some settings on the modem so that DHCP is being controlled by my Archer, but I don't want to go Double NAT. And I am Unsure if Putting the DHCP Range of the modem to 192.168.1.1 and then put that to the Archer and from the Archer the Full DHCP range would get the same results.

Don't know if i still have Forza 4 for my 360. But the emulator sounds great. Guess I'll look into that. Thanks

You can get a new 9700KF for about €275-300 I'm Running a 9900KF and never really made use of all the cores. Only reason i got the 9900KF is cuz i bricked my 9700K Delidding it and the 9900KF was not that much more expensive and was like fuck that, ill just try again xD

AA stands for Anti-Aliassing. As @jaslion mentioned, it smooths out edges so you don't get the pixely feel

Try disabling background apps

Hey, Is there any game available for PC where you can customize a Ford Ka's (2008-2016) exterior? I want to Wrap mine (Save the paint and give it a fresh look) but i legit can't figure out what colours i want. Was hoping to just play some Forza Horizon and customize my own Ka... unfortunately its only a NPC (Non Playable Car eksdee) in Horizon 2 Thus i'm left wondering in there is any other games that feature the Ka. W/ Kind regards Thijs

Thanks. Not gonna lie... I came across a deal on a Medion TV (MEDION LIFE X15092) that was old stock for €349 Given the 4K 60FPS 50" Screen, i wanted to see if the image quality was any good (do not care for Smart Features or any TV features, as i have a Chromecast Ultra and only stream TV) And to be honest, I was pretty amazed by the image quality for the price. I have declined all the services and thus the TV doesn't have any of it's features enabled except basically HDMI input. basically just what i needed :3

Heya, I'm looking into getting a new TV. So far I've found 2 models that seem interesting to me; SAMSUNG QLED 4K 55Q80A (2021) - €888, 110W in SDR / 227W in HDR SAMSUNG QLED 4K 55Q64A (2021) - €749, 77W in SDR / 140W in HDR Not sure if the extra's the more expensive TV brings are worth the premium and the extra power-consumption. Given that i already have separate speakers and my indepth knowledge about TV Panels isn't that great that i can see much difference. Or perhaps there are better suitable TV's? I'm using it to watch Movies and TV. Usually with a friend I have a ChromeCast Ultra that i usually use to cast Netflix using my Home Mini. Also have a Amazon Fire TV, but am not currently using it. Want to hook up my PC again using HDMI, but it'd be all across the room. maybe I'll do this in the future. Thanks in advance

Should try using LAN and then when it asks you to login to an account, unplug the LAN. then press the back button in the top left corner. This way you can still make a local user (I always call it DATA, so the folder under users is called "DATA" and then later change the name in config panel.) Have been doing this for years when setting up PC's and Laptop's for customers. Never failed for me.

That's pretty dope!

Hey, I'm looking for some way to have a UK Landline or mobile number while being abroad. without the provider charging extra for Roaming. I was thinking VoIP would solve this, but i have no clue of it does and what would be the best way to do so.

Hey, So I'm currently having random wireless speed (more like slow...) issues. Up until last week, my wireless speeds were at about 50/30Mbps (Down/Up) Then out of the blue Sunday night (October 3rd, but after midnight, so technically Monday) my wireless went to 1Mbps and couldn't even watch Netflix. During the day I didn't have much issues again and didn't test my speeds. it was late and I thought the ISP was doing maintenance or something. Monday night, around the same time, 1Mbps again. then Tuesday it happened at a earlier time, 19:00. and then Wednesday again! I was done and dragged a patch cable through the house... about 100/30 (that's higher then the advertised speed we pay for xD) Then Friday I didn't really have internet all day. So i changed out the Acces Point with another Router. this seemed to help, but didn't really I'm afraid. So my situation is this: Internet comes in over COAXIAL, the ISP's modem is in bridge and is connected to an Archer C7, which has about 10 network cables attached (with the help of a 8 port gigabit switch) and one of them is a Router that is configured as Acces Point. I'm connected (over Wi-Fi) from my room (which is a standalone structure) to the AP. Currently this are my network speeds; While connected to the 2.4GHz band While connected to the 5GHz Band While connected to the AP via UTP As you can see, upload is fine (Except for the 5GHz band, It's probably to much wall) but the Download is terrible... I don't know why because 2 weeks ago i had 50Mbps and I didn't change anything! I'm frustrated and have no clue, I'd love to hear what anyone else is thinking.

I mean.. they are new drives. and HD Tune doesn't show any bad sectors.

Hmm, So after moving Frostpunk to an SSD i had no problems playing the game. Is RAID 0 so bad for games? or maybe it is indeed the PSU can't handle the load of the drives that when it's loading something in the background it takes too much power? i have no clue. it's really stupid...

I'll do the MEMTEST overnight, I'll show the results when i have them As for the PSU, I also played a lot of League of Legends with friends without having issues. the only diffrence i can think of, is that i have a bunch of games on a NVME SSD, including league; where i had no issues with. While Frostpunk and Horizon were installed (moved them to other SSD's) on a RAID 0. This is also for the benchmarks, they are installed on a 2.5" SSD.

Hey, Yeah that's what i thought. but why does it do this in these games, but not during benchmarks or other games? I mean; Running Cinebench + Furmark at the same time (CPU & GPU at 100%) should draw more power then the weak needs of Frostpunk

About 30 minutes in; PC crashed again. Finished my story quest, started a new one. just started on day 2 when it happened. I still see no connection to the crashes.

Runing CineBench and Furmark doesn't seem to bother my PC either. Temps are good (70 to 80 °C. Room is 21°C)

Hey, Thanks for stopping by! Last Saturday (30 Januari 2021) i was playing some Horizon Zero Dawn (Installed on 2x8TB HDD Microsoft Raid 0).and during a mission my PC shut down (instantly) and rebooted. after loading the game back up and continuing from the checkpoint, reaching the same spot my PC shut down again and rebooted. on the 3rd reboot i turned off all other programs and software and tried again. same problem same spot. - I looked at the logs; Kernel Power Event 41. I also noticed it happened a lot at weird times. i never noticed reboots prior. - So i did a Steam integrity check on the game. same problem same spot. Moved the game to a 120GB SSD (i have a hot swap bay) and another Steam integrity check. now i could continue. problem solved; right? No... 1 februari I was Playing FrostPunk. At a given time, i get the same problem. Load the game back up, start from my last savepoint and a bit later it crashes around the same time (ingame day) It was late (the 2 crashes at 01:20 and 02:05) so i decided to go to bed Yesterday (2 Februari) i was Playing FrostPunk Again. at 21:51 My PC did the same. no warning. just poof and reboot. then changed the outlets. moved the PC cable directly into the wallsocket and take down the 5.2GHz overclock back to "AUTO" (4.7 GHz) then started FrustPunk again and at the same point in the game, the PC crashed again. I was done... after the reboot, i put my 3D printer to work (Artillery SideWinder X1 v4 connected over USB with Repetier-Host) and watched some netflix. Fell asleep at some point and this morning my PC was still doing fine. I did a NVIDIA Driver Update from 460.89 to 461.40. but i haven't played after the update was complete yet (as I didn't want to risk rebooting and stopping the 3D printer halfway through). I had no issues running Cinebench R23 for 60 minutes. ( I am going to play now, so ill edit when I found more Issues or solves) My PC and it's specs are kept up-to-date on Builds.GG; https://builds.gg/builds/msi-ultimate-17152 A screenshot from Windows Logs and DxDiag are attatched. DxDiag.txt

Hey, Quick overview about my configuration: 1x 500GB NVME SSD Samsung 970 EVO - OS 1x 1000GB NVME SSD WD Black - Game Launchers (Blizzard, EA, Steam, Ubisoft etc.) are installed here and my favorite Games (which i play regularly). 1x 1000GB SATA SSD Samsung 860 EVO - DATA and software. 2x 4000GB SATA HDD Seagate Barracuda - RAID 1 for Movies and Series (I like to keep my movies so i can see which i have seen) 2x 8000GB SATA HDD Seagate Barracuda - RAID 0 for Games (As gamefiles are all stored on the server at Steam/Ubisoft/EA, there's not much to lose if one of the drives fail) I used Window 10 storage features to make the partitions. But I'm having some troubles; As the games i play most often are on a "normal" drive, i hadn't noticed before. But games from Uplay don't seem to launch from the raid partition. I also had my EA games (Origin Launcher) installed on the RAID 0, but every time it located the games on the RAID partition, the launcher would crash and i would be unable to get it to work again, unless i reinstalled it (but the moment i located a game, it'd crash again) Is windows "Storage Spaces" not a good fit to make RAID's? or what can i do to use the mass storage for Uplay and Origin? as the 1TB NVME is quite full and i don't feel like moving my games around all the time, that's why i made the raid XD DxDiag.txt

I am using a hella weird comp on ram; 1x 2133 Kingston ValueRAM - OC'd to 2400 1x 2400 Kingston ValueRAM 2x Balistics Sport LT White. never had any issues.

well.. more like new products that are really good or less expensive then upgrading now when you don't need it

yes, as the future might bring great bargains!

yeah, its addicting XD i started with a 1000€ pc. now i got 2 5k ones lmao