darklighthim

I have an Asus TUF laptop running an i5-11400H, 16GB RAM, and a 4 GB RTX 3050 which I sometimes use to do light 1080p gaming and everyday office tasks. At my desk, I usually connect the laptop to 2 displays, the main one directly from the laptop HDMI port and another using a basic Type-C HDMI and USB dongle running from the single Thunderbolt port. I noticed that in Red Dead Redemption 2 when I load it up with the 2nd display running of Type-C dongle, my graphics settings will revert to something like 720p low, and things like Nvidia DLSS will suddenly disappear from the options, and then when in the game using decent settings (Decent for the hardware I have) the game will run very poorly, almost unplayable. If I unplug the Type-C dongle and just use the main display via the HDMI port the game becomes more than playable at 1080p using my preferred settings and I even have the Nvidia DLSS available to me, restarting the game also keeps my settings but then if I launch the game again after plugging the 2nd display back in it reverts back to being 720p low settings and unplayable. Does anyone know what is up, can I fix this issue somehow or is it just that I'm using a standard Type-C dongle or the fact I'm running a display of the Thunderbolt port? This is my first gaming laptop and the only other 2 games I play currently (F1 and Euro Truck) I tend to just use 1 screen anyway so unplug the 2nd display and don't notice my issue.

I've been a fan since the NCIX days, not a massive fanboy fan or anything but one that would watch 90% of the main LTT videos as a tech/computer enthusiast just because they were fun to watch, and so I have seen the growth of LTT and what it has become now. A lot of sh*t has gone down and while I did watch the video and read the statement re: Maddison I honestly don't care about them, what I do care about though is how everything gets handled. It's easy to say X, Y, and Z on the matter in a written post or fully shot video but their actions will define how they come out of this. I hope LTT can truly learn from this and do better in the future, that they aren't just going "We'll do better" only to make the same mistakes again. Also, I hope the Maddison situation can be handled in the best way possible for both parties since I only know what's been put out there, so not taking sides but if Maddison's stuff rings true then hopefully the result that comes out helps her move on and either way hopefully helps LTT employees in the future from ever experiencing this or any other issues of workloads...etc that are being talked about.

No, the A53 supports OTG (gsmarena says it's USB Type-C 2.0, OTG) butas far as I can tell it doesn't support HDMI output over the USB-C port. On my own S20 FE that also supports OTG (USB Type-C 3.2) can plug in a keyboard to my dongle use it to enter my pin and unlock the phone then switch to a C to C cable on my PC and access the files So I'm trying to do the above with the A53, enter the pin with a keyboard then switch cables so I can access the files on a PC, the issue is with a dead screen I can't see what's going on and whether or not I am able to unlock it. All I can tell is the phone vibrates when powered on, it shows up on my PC but no access to files when it's locked and not showing up if I try ADB.

My sister has killed the screen on her Galaxy A53 5G and wants photos off it before she sends it in for repair, when I say killed I mean it stays off no matter what you do. The phone is detected in windows, but of course when it's locked you can't access files from it, I have the PIN but obviously the screen is dead. I have a USB-C dongle that goes to USB-A and HDMI to attempt using a keyboard to enter the PIN then immediately unplugging the dongle and plugging the phone into my PC. This sadly hasn't worked the few times I tried. It does work on my S20 FE and I've seen the A53 specs showing OTG support so I have an idea of what should happen when plugging in the dongle and if it has OTG on A53 it should work very similar. Oh and I did try ADB devices in powershell but phone doesn't show up. Any help to try and get access to copy photos over would be appreciated.

I just got a HP laptop with an Elan trackpad and it's got pinch to zoom turned on by default so I am constantly zooming in on things when I don't wat to. Naturally I googled my issue to see if I could sort it out but have had issues with that. I followed guides telling me to go into mouse settings but nothing is there that helps me, and when I download the ETD Properties app from the windows store as I saw suggested it doesn't work. I am able to see my driver version but no device shows up where I could then access any setting from within that to disable pinch to zoom. I even tried the IC2 version as in device manager my trackpad shows up as an I2C HID Device but that errors out t connecting the drivers. Downloaded the latest drivers from HP but no luck there. Any help is much appreciated.

£28.09 delivery, no thanks.

I'll have a quick look on Ebay. I'm in the UK so not sure how it'll be finding them here or the delivery costs.

Yes, this. I tried to email them as I wanted to buy the kit but got no response. If my cooler is still decent then I'd rather just pay a little for a mounting kit than buying a whole new cooler, especially if something like a 212 isn't any better?

I have a Scythe Ashura CPU cooler that I was using with an LGA1156 intel CPU for years, then I moved to AM4 with a Ryzen 5 2600 Initially I just ran stock as the old cooler was pre-AM4 so no mounting hardware in the box and really wanted to get a system up and running. Now though I might want to swap coolers and wondering if the Scythe Ashura would be OK for a stock and maybe lightly overclocked 2600. Also does anyone know where I can pick up the correct mounting hardware? I tried emailing Scythe as per their website about purchasing mounts, as they mention my cooler as being able to use AM4 mounting but they never got back as far as I could see..

I'll try to look up some reviews of the TP-Link stuff see how well they do, otherwise wait and invest in something better if it would be worth it. I'm not on a budget, but at the same time I'd rather not spend more if I don't need to., All I know about our cable setup is there was none in the house when we bought it so as we needed TV/internet the cable company at the time ran a (line?) from our street to our house going to one coax point in the living room with a splitter so they could connect TV box and modem. Then a few years later they installed a 2nd coax point in an upstairs bedroom for TV. We gave up TV after my dad passed away so the WiFi router provided to us by the ISP is the only coax device connected.

I've seen Mesh WiFi stuff when browsing a physical big retail store recently so that might be worth looking into. Are TP-Link ones any good? I remember seeing them at a reasonable price for x2 set which would be enough (Just a guess) as I'm not in a huge house to need more but could add extra if I did. As for powerline, I don't need it if the Mesh hardwired into my PC would be enough,otherwise I've seen a few reasonably price gigabit kits that may be useful. I have a coax in the next room over that was used when my parents had a 2nd cable box for TV, but it refuses to work with my router even though it's the same connection as downstairs (Downstairs was originally split to provide TV and internet) If the coax worked I'd have just ran a 20m or so Ethernet cable to my PC for the fastest speed possible.

I'm currently running a basic Netgear WiFi router (ISP branded) downstairs which then feeds an older powerline adapter to my desktop PC upstairs. I then have various google home speakers, couple of smartphones, tablet, laptop...etc all using the WiFi through my 2 storey house. The setup I have works, albeit the powerline is slow these days, and even though there is no WiFi black spots it does get worse in my bedroom at the back of the house on the 2nd floor especially if I was connected to the 5ghz band and didn't switch. So I'm looking to upgrade after the new year but have no idea what to go for or really what's the best way to set it up? I need my desktop to have as good a speed as I can possibly get (I pay for 200mb cable internet) but then the WiFi just need to have decent speed while getting better coverage even if I am out in the back garden. The desktop upstairs and the laptop/satellite box by the TV downstairs next to the router are the only devices using Ethernet, though I may add a files/media server to my setup so maybe that would be best to hard wire? I've not really got a budget set yet, and I'm not looking for specific parts suggestions but more the options. Once I know what I'm doing I can think about what I need then work out a budget based on that myself. Thanks

Re-installed the nvidia drivers, and Direct X, and didn't get any crash in about half an hour of Euro truck so maybe its fixed? Then again I had previous crashes at different times so will have to play more and see.

It didn't work first time round but a BSOD and 2nd restart later seems to have fixed it so definitely going to be useful little app I think. At least for me in my use case it should be good,

Having downloaded and installed it from the link in the original post, I can't seem to drag between tabs? I select 2 test folders, drag them over the destination tab but it doesn't let me do anything. Was hoping it would switch to the tab I'm hovering over, then allow me to just place said folders into whatever destination folder I want. Shame this doesn't work in the version I have, but not a big deal. Will definitely keep on using it and see if it becomes useful for me or not.