captain_cereal_hands

Is there anyone that owns a Lian Li o11 Air Mini that could measure the height from floor to ceiling in millimeters in the back section behind the mid radiator mount? Thanks for any help.

That is kinda what I thought just being sure. Also I was already planning on waiting till 40 series as long as my 1080 doesn't die on me.

I'm curious I have a 1080 (Haven't upgraded in a long time) and I'm ready to upgrade sometime this year (Gotta save up some more). I've kept up on the new cards just not like their full potential. I'm a guy who likes to play games with all quality settings to max. I love beautiful games (Like Red Dead 2). What kind of a card out there can game at 4K supersampled (I know not all games do SuperSampling) down from 8K at 120Hz at max quality with HDR? Is there a card or am I just living in total fantasy. Also I refuse to believe that SLI isn't dead so don't bother recommending two GPU's (It was dead before 30 series we're just at the backing over it for good measure phase). I don't have the most ultimate top tier monitor but I do have this one LG 27GN950-B. I Love it. I have a crappy 1080p secondary that I wanna replace with a like 32" 4K. So the LG would be the secondary one. I'm basically assuming a 3090 or nothing but I'm wondering if even a 3090 can. So again curious what cards could do this (At reasonable FPS doesn't have to be 200 just not like 20) or if I'm living in a dream world.

So I bought a 12900k and the AIO I have is not getting the upgrade. So I haven't decided on a cooler and subsequently a case. I have an NH D-15 (The first cooler I owned) with a bracket on the way but people are saying it's not enough for the 12900K. it will ether be front triple 140 intake or side triple 120 intake (I own 2 cases to choose from and those would be the setups) so I think airflow for the RAM should be okay just need to figure out a cooler. ALso my GPU is hot but only a 1080 so not crazy hot.

So yeah if the RAM is fine then I will set the voltage to 1.35 or something and see what the best speeds and timings I can get at 1.35-1.4V is with my 12900k and just run with that.

Oh no no I don't own the F4-4000C16D-32GTZR kit. I own this kit F4-3200C15D-32GTZ that I ran at stock at the time cause I could never get XMP to work not realizing that not all my parts were compatible with 3200Mhz (It was my first build) If that RAM works I will just continue to use it. I was asking about the other kit out of curiosity incase the kit I have did actually die (Postcodes tell me it ether RAM or RAM slots).

No I don't wanna be running 1.7V thank you for the information. I hope the kit I have works and I don't have to buy more. I'm keeping faith that it was my X99 Motherboard which is ancient to begin with.

I put in a kit of RAM that was like 1.5V or something and it was like Intel Alder Lake CPU recommended maximum of 1350 mv+5% (1417.5 mv) So I stuck with kits that were 1.4V or lower hence the F4-4000C16D-32GTZR at 1.4V. You guys are saying I should be fine at that voltage.

So in another forum I asked a question about DDR4 RAM. I was curious if I could get this RAM to work in Gear 1 at XMP at 1.4V with a 12900K provided the silicone stars aligned and still get some kind of longevity? F4-4000C16D-32GTZR Trident Z RGB DDR4-4000 CL16-16-16-36 1.40V 32GB (2x16GB) And well it turned into a crazy back and forth between these two people one saying the DDR4 memory controller isn't that robust this time and will degrade over time and the other is like your out of your mind People run 1.5V+ all the time. I'll link it in case you're curious but I'm still a little confused cause they were just stating opinions (Maybe it's too early for more than just educated guesses). IDK https://pcpartpicker.com/forums/topic/409671-ram-alder-lake-and-xmp#cx4088790 Ps. I have RAM just not sure if it was the problem or the Motherboard when my computer stopped working (If it was the Motherboard then I will use my old RAM). I'm thing Motherboard but I have nothing else to test this stuff on so it COULD have been the RAM and incase I need to buy new RAM I'm just seeing what my options are. What people think is possible with good silicone luck. I'm still waiting on some LGA 1700 parts to come in so can't test anything yet. Thanks for your thoughts.

Yes but I think they are moving from PGA cause they can't get these kind of specs without LGA maybe.

Reason I haven't installed it yet is cause the CPU cooler I had wasn't compatible. The sales guy at Microcenter was like the NH-D15 isn't enough for the 12900K you need a fancy AIO (I have an old Corsair AIO and an NH D-15) since I figured the D-15 wouldn't be able to handle a 12900K with Multicore Enhancement on (Only OC I'm looking for) I figured I would wait till I could get a compatible AIO that can handle it.

I did my research on these parts thoroughly but who thinks to check the reviews on the Socket Retention Mechanism. I mean come on Intel get your multi-billion dollar shit together. Edit: Also if it's more Motherboard manufacturers then why isn't Intel more outraged at manufacturers for not following their design that I would image they test, test and retest.

Also my computer is not functioning at all and my imac from 2013 is SLOW and making me ragey so I decided to upgrade now and use my current working 1080 and wait for 4000 series. I do regret not going with the 5950X a little but idk I already opened the box. I would be buying it there so maybe MIcroCenter could give me store credit.

No I haven't installed it but I did break the seal on the packaging but I never took it out of the plastic case. People have said with the correct LGA 1700 brackets your fine. It's only if you use LGA 1200 brackets or something but I don't have factual proof. I got the 12900K cause it was on sale for 499.99 and the 5950X was 649.99

Yes I've seen a few articles on the subject that was kinda why I asked here cause I got mixed opinions that were all over the place.

Anyone out there that has a Fractal Design Meshify 2 I know it's possible to fit 3 140mm fans in the front of the case. I'm wondering if anyone thinks with some light modding I'd be able to force a Corsair iCUE H170i 420mm AIO. I know one can fit in the top but I want it in the front as intake. I'm okay with light modding (Damaging) the case to make it fit. I want inlet/outlet at the bottom. I was thinking if I put fans in front then radiator it might stick out enough that I could bend some of the mesh at the bottom of the case out of the way so the part that won't quit fit inside will stick out the bottom a little. PS I know there are cases that can fit a 420 in the front normally but they all are huge or have no airflow. Kinda like this guy did here with an o11 (Except I'm using an AIO). I mean I know with enough tools anything will fit I just don't have power saws and what not. Like I said I know I could just pick something else. I just like this case and think well it's only too short by a little bit. 3 140's fit so they wouldn't stick out and the radiator is only 457x140. Any thoughts would be helpful.

That's what I had thought but wasn't for sure.

If things work out I kinda wanna be on this mobo/cpu till like 2030. I know that seems like a long time but I think it has the performance to last me that long. LIke I said I'm just worried about long term damage. So you think everything will be fine if I use the LGA 1700 bracket?

Edit info on the subject is kinda all over the place if I'm misinformed please let me know. So I just bought a brand new i9 12900k (It was on sale for 500 so seemed like a good deal). Also my Mobo is the MSI MPG Z690 EDGE WIFI DDR4 ATX LGA1700 Motherboard for reference. I checked compatibility on everything like RAM and a mobo with a decent power design. Everything seemed good but it wasn't till after I bought it that I learned about LGA 1700 and it's horrible retention mechanism that causes bending and denting the IHS as well. To be clear I have not installed it at all yet and I'm not just curious about the washer mod. I wanna know what if anything I can do to keep things from bending in the first place. People go on and on bringing up the washer mod and some say it works well and others say it only drops like 3 degrees but they are doing the washer mod after things go south. Mine is unused so far. That's all I care about really keeping it looking normal. So like could I buy an aftermarket stronger backplate or I don't even know 100% what is causing the bending. I've heard that it's not every board. I plan to use this build for many years down the road and I don't want it warping like cheap plastic. PS if your not sure what I'm on about check Reddit it's all over the place on the forums. Thanks for any tips.

A few weeks ago I was using my computer playing GTA V. I was at 4K fairly high settings. My whole computer crashed just shutdown no error (It had been working fine for a while before this). I was worried. I took the whole thing apart cleaned it and moved all the parts into a new case with a new cooling setup (Which I already had just hadn't gotten around to it). It continued to happen during GTA. I would then toggle the PSU switch a few times and it would turn back on (Case power button did nothing). Then yesterday I was trying some test. I ran CPU stress tests and nothing happened. I tried 1080p Furmark test nothing happened. Tried a 4K Furmark test and it crashed the millisecond I hit the start button. At first I thought maybe it was the Mobo cause I would make bios changes and hit Save and Exit and it would just shutdown and not restart and I would have to toggle the PSU again for it to turn on but now with it crashing on 4K test makes me think it might be the GPU. I'm not sure really. I don't have the money to go replacing everything so I need to try and isolate the problem so I have to replace as little as possible. This is my parts list. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/wdRjVc I thought rebuilding everything new case clean system would fix it but apparently not. Any help would be much apricated.

So I ended up running the fans on 2 controller. I run it at minimum speed and I get like 25-35C on my CPU temps at idle or using Chrome. It's nice.

I did the bottom are intake top exhaust and side push/pull is intake. That picture is before changed them to intake.

Things kinda broke last minute and I'm trying to use what I have. I have these Noctua NA-FC1 4-pin PWM Fan Controllers that have sata power and I could use splitters to get 4 or 5 on each one.

Who said anything about need.

I need some help. I just finished cleaning and rebuilding my computer into a new case. This time it has more fans than before and I'm not sure how to get them all plugged in with what I have and the ports on my Mobo. My entire parts list is here: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/Captain_Cereal_Hands/saved/ds9xsY I have a total (cpu fans included) of 12 120mm fans. 3 go with the AIO Liquid cooler I have installed and plug into the 3-pin Cpu fan header. The 9 others are Industrial 3000rpm Noctua's that draw 0.3A each. I have 1 other 4-pin Cpu fan header and 1 4-pin Chassis fan header and 2 3-pin Chassis fan headers. I also have 2 Noctua NA-FC1 4-pin PWM Fan Controller with sata power. What I would like to do is have all 12 of the fans running at the same speed and on a curve. Most fan headers are about 1A and 3 of the Noctua's are 0.9A. A few ideas I had were 1. plugging 3 of the Noctua's into the one 4-pin cpu fan header and then run splitters off of the Noctua fan controller for the other 6 off of the one 4-pin chassis fan header but I wonder about 3 of those on one header, The fan controller has sata power so I think those fans would be fine on one header. Other option is I could use 2 controllers one on each 4-pin and then do 4 fans on one and 5 on the other. I know it's long winded and a little confusing but any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated. Ps. I bought the parts to redo it along time ago but hadn't gotten too it but it crashed yesterday and wouldn't turn back on so I took it all apart last minute.