M-Wolf

No worries, besides that the Board isn't posting at all, therefore I didn't get close to the UEFI... So far the response from Asus is positive, I got a Crosshair Hero VI instead. They've told me that I managed to corrupt the UEFI somehow. Seems like I'm a magician... I can do something almost impossible.. ?

To close this topic, the mainboard is in the RMA process. I'll get a new one.

No, no marks or scratches... :-/ I can see nothing on the board which would indicate a damage... I treated it like a raw egg...

Yea that is the thing. I haven't touched the voltages, I left everything on Auto. Appreciate your help though

Well, no boot loop. It's basically stuck with spinning fans at the same speed constant. It's not turning on / off. I've basically didn't screwed in the cooler and just let it rest on the paste to give it a shot but still no luck... I already thought that I might have damaged the CPU when screwing the Cooler in to tight the first time... But even that makes no sense as this issue occurred after a RAM speed change and it was working fine before...

Hey Guys, you are basically my last resort, I'm running out of ideas. So the situation is, I've installed a new Cooler into my system. It took me a while and everything worked fine. The MB posted into Safe Mode and I could boot with all standard settings. After everything worked with the Standard settings, I wanted to restore my previous settings: CPU @ 3.7 GHz / RAM @ 3200 Mhz / SMT disabled I left everything on Auto and have not touched the Voltage. After these changes, the Board wouldn't POST. So I cleared the CMOS and decided to go step by step, starting with the RAM speed. So I've set the RAM speed to 3200Mhz without any changes on the CPU frequency. And BAM no POST under no circumstances. No POST code, no beep no signal nothing. Just the fans spinning.. And yes there is speaker plugged into the motherboard, one of the old crappy MB speakers and no I don't have a display for the post code. What I've tried so far: -Unplug everything (HDDs, USBs, etc.) except for Graphics Card, Monitor. -Cleared the CMOS, Removed the CMOS battery -Unplugged the Power Cable as per Guide to get into Safe POST. -Tested the RAM sticks as single RAM. -Loosend the CPU cooler. -Tested with the Boxed Cooler. -Tested with a second (different) graphics card and tested it in all available slots. Everything without success so far. As my last idea, I've removed the CMOS battery last evening and will try to spin it up again, this evening. If you've any idea what this could be, please let me know. I don't think it is caused by a fried component, as they were all working fine with these settings before. I'd simply would like to try everything possible before I head out and buy a new MB just for testing... The only other thing, that I can think of is that the UEFI files / system somehow got corrupted?! (But I don't have the tools to check that...) My system specs are: MB: Asus Prime X370 - Pro https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/PRIME-X370-PRO/ CPU: AMD Ryzen 1700 @ Stock? I guess. RAM: Corsair VegenanceC16 3466 = https://www.corsair.com/eu/en/Categories/Products/Memory/VENGEANCE®-RGB-16GB-(2-x-8GB)-DDR4-DRAM-3466MHz-C16-Memory-Kit/p/CMR16GX4M2C3466C16 HDD: Samsung 850 Evo ( Does not matter, is unplugged atm. ) Graphics card: Sapphire Radeon RX480 (GTX 650 tested) PSU: Seasonic 620W https://www.komplett.ie/seasonic-m12ii-bronze-evo-edition/80014807/product?channable=e38727.ODAwMTQ4MDc&gclid=CjwKCAjw3qDeBRBkEiwAsqeO7sk3qZoDah2_1Wdvv5J_567fdJZ3mbA5ohCdIIAjLgu-EZdbYYTMhRoCsKsQAvD_BwE Looking forward to your answers. ?

Well, they allow you to recover up to 1 GB of data for free. For any more, you have to pay the 70$ A crack is almost always piracy, especially if you haven't bought any license for the software. But this is definitely the wrong thread for such a discussion. Well I'm sorry about that I haven't read through the whole article Keep me updated on your progress and what software you've used in the end

Well you could give the free softwares a try... https://www.techradar.com/news/the-best-free-file-recovery-software Maybe #5 would be something for you as you've lost the whole partition. I don't know any good free software though. I'm actually using M3 and paid the 70$. Good software is usually worth it...

https://www.game-debate.com/gpu/index.php?gid=3515&gid2=2173&compare=Nvidia GeForce GT 710 v2-vs-Intel HD Graphics 2000 Desktop Game debate. Same result. Don't say wrong things and start flaming if somebody proofs that you're wrong... Well that heavily depends on the card, that you're choosing. With a 1050 you should be able to get 30fps on 1080p. Just give it a go on google for the different suggested cards. That'll probably give you better results from perople that actually tried such a setup...

Well actually that is not true in this case... As this is only 2nd gen core i3 he will be stuck with an Intel HD 2000. Even the GT710 does a better job than that...

Well you can install this GPU in your pc but I wouldn't recommend it either. I mean it will do a better job than no GPU but overall it will do a bad job... Go for a 750, 1030 or even a 650 / 550ti they will do a much better job and aren't too expensive if you buy them used.

Ok, I'm at the end of my knowledge... MAybeyou should try the previous mentioned tutorial:

Wouldn't do it... At least for the Europe scenario as there is no big difference between the prices once you've calculated the import tax and customs... BTW linking this here:

You said you're monitoring the HDD utilisation? What about the reading speed? Can you see what the reading speed is like during a gta 5 session? And what about the response time of the drive? Please give us your complete system specs as it's a guessing game at the moment...

Sticking out of the crowd! Starset - Ricochet https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SaC0YVaIMno

Ok so at least you don't have any bad sector on this drive. Anyway if the drive is getting louder than normal it's ususally a indicator that the days of the hard drive are counted. So save the data and get a new one... Did the Seagate program find anything?

Yes thats actually true. Then you should go for a 3rd party software. For Example: https://html5.litten.com/updated-how-to-fix-external-disk-drive-suddenly-became-raw/

So you don't need to change the drive letter it already has one "E". However the RAW means that the filesystem is damaged. We can try a rescue operation using the windows tools: Press Win + R Type cmd and hit enter in the command prompt type: chkdsk E: /f /r /x The “/f” parameter tells CHKDSK to fix any errors it finds; “/r” tells it to locate the bad sectors on the drive and recover readable information; “/x” forces the drive to dismount before the process starts. If this doesn't work out you can still try to use a 3rd party program to recover the partition. (https://www.m3datarecovery.com/raw-to-ntfs/change-raw-to-ntfs-without-formatting.html) Or in the worst case get a data recovery software to secure at least the data from the drive before formatting it to be usable again.

What about the disk letter? Did that work out? As it looks like your partition is still intact. Please also try this: Right click on windows Open Device Manager See if there is a warning somewhere in the usb section. Does your drive show up at all in the Disk Managment? If so could you post a screenshot of it? Especially the bottom part if Windows recognises your partition on the drive?

Om your drive still show up in Windows that's not to bad. To be honest no one will be able to tell you if your data is gone or not with a 100% assurance. However, we can go a bit deeper using Windows: Fire up Windows and diskpart as before and type: list disk select disk 2 [Should be the disk number of your drive] list part Could you post the result of list part here so I can see if the drives partitions can still be read? Afterwards you could try the following, it's a long shot but maybe it's that easy: Right click on start Open Disk Managment Right click on your disk Click "Change Drive letters and paths" (If no entry exists) Add a drive letter.

Oh cool what have you done to fix it? Share your knowledge!

Actually yes you could give that a shot. You can follow this guide: https://www.lifewire.com/how-to-use-system-restore-in-windows-2626131

Is the drive still shown in format ExFAT in Ubuntu? Does the drive show up in Windows diskpart? Could you post the result of list disk? Win+R type in "diskpart" Type in "list disk" Could you spin up ubuntu connect the drive and run this command and post the result here? sudo lsblk -o NAME,FSTYPE,SIZE,MOUNTPOINT,LABEL For information lsblk is a command that shows you information about the devices.

Ok then you might try uninstalling the old driver completly: Right Click on Start and open up the Device Manager Go to Network adapters and right click on your adapter Click uninstall device Confirm with Uninstall Click on Action and Scan for Hardware changes Give it a couple of Minutes and windows should install the driver anew

Yea it looks like a zip so most likely there is a *.exe file in the extracted folder. You should run that exe file to start the installation process.