Jstagzsr

Does something exist that fits this description??? You open the app, or go to the web page, you log in and it shows you a organized and permanently alphabetical list of all our machines. (we have about 300 machines) (A1, A2, A3, A4....B1, b2, b3....Z1, Z2, Z3.. etc) when you click on the machine number it opens a list of past logs of that specific machine's maintenance, and within that log list you can add a new item.. all this with the ability for several people to all log in to the same list and view and add items and once added it saves to a cloud for all users to see the new added item immediately.. Ive found several apps from microsft and google down to companies ive never heard of all that do part of what i need, and ALL do it way more complicated than i need.. This needs to be a quick easy fast process or the events/ issues will never be logged and it will defeat the purpose of setting up this log... Being able to view and edit the list from chrome and android at least is a must but ios would also be cool for any future maintenance techs who would join our team who use macs and iphones... i use "inkpad notepad" for taking cloud saved notes on my android phone and the way that app is setup would be 100% perfect for this application.. very simple. very clean.. alphabetical lists. opens to a list of items (note title.. could be machine numbers), click the item and it gives you a list (note body.. could be the maintenance list). only issue is this is not multi user and i already have an account so there's no way for me to both use this for my personal notes and the machine maintenance at work. i know this isnt really tech related but this forum always seems to have the answers for the oddball questions like this.

Im building a surron eater.. Its taken about 6 months so far but its almost done and once its completed itll be an absolute monster.. This is the third pev ive owned. I built (upgraded from the ground up) a scooter and bought another scooter that is currently my main mode of transportation. all my vast (lolz) pev knowledge is of the scooter world.. Ebikes are a whole other thing im discovering. And with the limited info i can find online about my issues its kinda difficult to figure certain things out.. So to LTT i turn for your combined knowledge! forgive my ignorance.. This is the first ebike ive ever built or owned or had anything to do with.. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Questions: On the ukc1 display under the "advanced settings" what do i set the "poles in motor" to? What do i set the "Throttle 6km" to? What do i set the "assist poles" to? On the QS273 there are 2 identical plugs, With different colored wires, one is definitely for the hall sensor wires but doesnt have the temp wire, and the other plug has all 6 wires on the plug but the different colored wires makes me wonder what it is and what do i do with it? I would love to be able to monitor my motor temps in real time on the display.. The controller side of the hall sensor plug DOES have the middle white wire for temps.. How do i make this work? From what ive read the qs273 has 2 identical plugs in case one gets damaged but why then would the wire color and wire count be different? On the swingarm for the generic bomber frame it has mounting spots for a MTB caliper but the qs273 has a weird 3 bolt spot for a rotor.. How do i hook mtb calipers up to whatever rotor the qs273 takes? What rotor DOES it take? and if thats not an option then what caliper WILL work on the qs273 rotor and can i mount THAT to the bomber swingarm? I wanted Magura MT5E levers and calipers on both the front and rear but ill take ANY brakes over not having rear brakes.. I have to cut and re-weld the stock swingarm so the stock dropouts (175mm) are the 200mm that the qs273 requires. Im having a professional welder do it.. I can weld but not so good that id trust my life with it... The frame was the first part of this project that i bought but im liking it less and less as time goes on.. What other options are out there for frames? I couldnt find ANY besides the skinnier "enduro" style and my style.. How can i get rid of the pedals and use pegs? I cant find any conversion kit anywhere.. I cant figure out how to make this happen without fabricating and bolting or welding on mounts for pegs... The crap Zoom forks are tripple tree design but they dont have the style of handlebar mounting i wanted. It ONLY has the weaker uglier style of handlebar mounting that mounts to the center vertical pole that goes through the frame stem mount. My bars are 31.8mm thick at the mounting point on the stem.. Do they make a 31.8mm dirtbike style riser/mount/bracket with the two risers? cuz i cant find them anywhere! Do they make mtb steering dampers that will work on this build? Probably many more questions but i cant think of any other big ones. TIA for any help/input ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Parts:"stealth bomber" generic frame w/ Moto seat QS273, 50H, 4T. Mounted to 2.15x18 moto rim. Dunlop D404 (110/90-18) rear tire 19x1.4 surron front rim Shinko 70/100-19 front tire Sabvoton (risun motor) 72150 ukc1 display LLT 200A BMS zoom forks (Fox 40's will be used once ive saved enough to get em) Magura MT5E front caliper/ lever Magura 203mm rotors Magura 203mm rotor adapters/ caliper risers Magura e-throttle (Discovered Domino existed AFTER buying this throttle) 20S 12P Panasonic NCR21700 pack (180A cont) im in the process of building Harley LED headlight LED blinkers and brake lights and all that.. two generic (left side) crank arms.. (no sprocket mount.. I dont want a sprocket). generic pedals a bunch of other small parts all over the place

hmmm.. I'm gonna try the pencil eraser. I usually just use a scalpel to lightly scrape up the pads. Ive always had good success with that on old battery terminals or corroded pads on old electronics.. I like that eraser idea though. Less damage to the pads.

yep, it was a dead ram stick.. Very weird. in my entire life of building computers this is the first ram stick ive seen die without something physically happening to it.. It was perfectly fine one second, dead the next second.. And idk why ddr3 is still so expensive. ddr5 is about to come out.. cot damn!

The reason I took everything apart and put it back together was to clean and reapply thermal pastes and clean out fans and reseat memory. I'll try only using one stick. Maybe one went bad. They are pretty old.

I built my son a gaming pc out of parts I had laying around in boxes trying to get him into the pc world.. he loves pc gaming but he uses a usb controller on PC. I failed as a pc master race gaming parent .. So he started his pc like normal one time, everything was fine.. he opened fortnite and the screen went black. After a few minutes I held down the power button till it reset. When turning it back on the bios post beep occurred but then the screen stayed black. The bios opening logos didn't even come on screen. And the tv doesn't even recognize anything is plugged in.. so today I pulled the computer apart trying to fix it. Disassembled and reassembled everything. Hit the power button.. still nothing.. but now I noticed the post code of "d5".. so I looked it up and have no idea what it means. Never heard that before.. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Asrock 890GX extreme 4 AMD phenom ii x6 GTX 970 2x8gb hyper x ddr3

i am aware what functions exist on some controllers. What this post was asking is help identifying specific wires in search of specific functions. So i appreciate you trying to help but this isnt what im looking for. Contacting an ebike store is a good idea though. I'll try that. ty

The current wiring config is how it came in the mail hooked up inside the scooter. There are no switches or even labels other than the 1-2 letters on the pcb i showed in the pic. And yeah obviously there "may be" the functions listed.. thats the whole point of this post.. Trying to find the wires for those functions. Ive googled every number on the pcb, googled the scooter, googled similar scooters, googled random other controllers to compare the wires, looked at every wiring diagram i could find trying to see if the colors are universal across all controllers.. etc.. it came with no documentation and i havent been able to find any. Ive been searching for weeks. The seller is some random seller on ebay whos been zero help. The scooter they had listed isnt even what i received. Same scooter frame but different shocks and a few different parts. so the seller doesnt even know what theyre selling. I hate chinese crap too but this is what i could afford. I saved for months and finally had the extra 500$ to afford this.

Are you just arbitrarily naming random functions?

I know this has nothing to do with computers but I always find the most knowledgeable people here on ltt dot com... I have been searching for a month online, posting in Facebook groups, trying every possible thing I could to find the answer to this question.. which is: what in the hell is the wiring diagram/pinout of my controller pcb (pictured) in order to find out what these empty plugs are on the controller (pictured)... The wiring makes no sense. The reason I need to find the wiring is because this is a 48v 1600watt scooter.. it should be hauling ass. But it has extremely slow acceleration and top speed is limited to 20mph.. and the throttle doesn't start to move the wheel until almost 3/4 pressed.. it's being limited and I can't figure out how to use it's full power. Any help would be greatly appreciated.. Controller pcb manufacturer: Refly. Controller: 48v 1600watt 30amp Motor: 5400rpm 48v 1600watt Scooter: Eskrte challenger. Identical chassis to mototech chaos, evo powerboard, uberscoot, etc..

I actually just uninstalled and then reinstalled all the latest drivers for LAN.. and there was a chipset update i installed. I also just tried completely disconecting the ethernet alltogether and only using the onboard wifi adapter.. and the same thing is still happening in all scenarios.. I really dont understand whats going on . lol.. How can i watch youtube on my phone AANNDD another laptop at the same time as a download is happening on my main pc but as soon as i try to go to youtube on the main pc, the page doesnt even load.. The network can carry the bandwidth.. but something about my amin pc specifically is limiting the amount of bandwidth it gets.. I'm pulling my hair out over here!!! lol

The different cable is being used right now and the same problem is happening. i also just tried both ethernet jacks on the motherboard. Same result. And i tried 2 jacks on the router. Same result. I got this motherboard earlier this year. maybe 7-8 months ago. Its a 700 dollar motherboard ill be pissed if something is physically wrong with it! lol And 100% definitely this has NOT always been happening. i have always downloaded or updated games in the background and watched youtube while i waited for them. Thats my routine. I know it well. I remember the very day it started happening. i have like 20-25 games on steam and 3 or 4 on battle net, 3 on origin, and a few on a few other platforms and all things are kept up to date. Immediately upon a update being released i am right on it keeping evrything current and every time, im on youtube (AAANNNDDDD usually 2-3-4 other tabs at the same time) while it downloads. I'm at a loss. Ive never seen this before. Ive exhausted my knowledge on how to fix it. Hence the post on LTT

Sure did. My motherboard is the MSI MEG Z390 Godlike. It has dual gigabit ethernet jacks. ive tried them both on all 4 of the router jacks. And yes all ethernet drivers are installed. all the normal ones and all the "Killer" ones. I'll manually check the website to see if there are any updates but MSI Dragon center is pretty good about finding everything that needs updating and putting it all in one place to view and download and install.

i havent tried a new cable.. good idea.. But everything on pc is 100% up to date. even windows. And in the process of trying to figure this out i factory reset and updated the firmware of the router and i factory reset the modem and had spectrum push the latest everything to it. And this morning spectrum was here and they replaced a cable jack on the wall and added a filter to the line.

About a week ago i noticed when i was watching a youtube video and i clicked on the realplayer download button and shortly after my youtube video stopped to buffer because there was a download now happening.. It never did this before. There was always plenty of bandwidth to go around.. I now have come to realize that whenever i am doing any two or more things that require the internet only one will workk. I can not download a game on steam while watching youtube, i cant download a game on battle net while loading facebook, i can not stream netflix while an update runs in the background, i cant load most web pages while a game downloads.. So when i update my games now i have to stop what im doing and find something else to do while the game downloads.. I'm on hour about 12 now of downloading the 60GB game cyberpunk 2077.. Usually that would take like 20-30 minutes.. I have 200Mbps internet. I am hard lined to the router which is hard lined to the modem. both the modem and router are gigabit capable. Spectrum's ookla speed test (speedtest.net) shows 120-220Mbps speeds when connecting to a spectrum server on my spectrum internet.. But any other speed test i run shows .5-8Mbps.. So not only do i not know what my actual speed is, but Its like my pc all of a sudden dropped 99% of the speed it had a week ago for no reason.. And its ONLY on that pc.. I can download a game on my pc and youtube wont even load the main page on the same pc, but i can watch youtube on another pc or on my phone connected to the same network just fine.. I've been binge watching a show on a roku TV while waiting for this game to download.. So the network itself is plenty capable of sustaining several devices running several internet related things at a time.. But ONLY on seperate devices.. When i try to do those identical actions on the same pc, its impossible.. Not enough bandwidth or something.. What in the hell is going on here??? Someone please help!!

i keep my computers pretty spotless. Virtually and physically. And i just built this pc a few months ago so it shouldnt be dusty or dirty or clogged with virtual or physical crap

i dont think it s a virus. i have avast premium and paid malwarebytes running at all times. plus the normal windows defender stuff. I'll run a scan though

Just now while a spectrum internet tech was here dicking around with wires and trying to convince me that THEIR speed test that says im getting 200mbps is more accurate than MY speed test that says im getting 3mbps when im showing him that i can barely load a 1080p video on youtube and i cant at all watch a youtube video even on 144p if im also updating a game on steam... But thats besides the point.. My pc randomly bluescreened while i was sitting there watching him. i wasnt even touching the computer and it was doing nothing besides sitting on the desktop.. It then forced me to a black pre-windows menu upon startup that made me choose between opening bios or loading pre saved OC configs.. I reloaded the same profile ive been using for months now with zero issues at all.. A few seconds after boot it blue screened again.. So this time i loaded Defaults.. and it bluescreened again seconds after boot.. So this time i loaded a profile i named "Best non OC" and now my cpu is sitting at 4.64 - 4.7, akaa no oc, and stuck there not going down in frequency.. but at least not blue screening.. What would cause an otherwise perfectly running system to randomly bluescreen and no longer take the OC settings it was just on perfectly stable for months? While doing nothing?!?!?! i wasnt even gaming or naything. it wasnt stressed. it just gave up. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- i9 9900K MSI MEG Z390 Godlike 32gb 3200mhz CS16 Dominator Platinum DDR4 MSI Gaming X Trio 2080ti EVGA 1000 G5. 1k watt 80+ Gold psu Enermax Liqmax 3 ARGB 360mm AIO Asus Tuff Gaming GT501 case 970 evo nvme 500gb ssd boot drive 2x 860 evo 1tb ssd's 2x WD Blue 1tb hdd's 2x WD Blue 500gb hdd's GELID GC-Extreme Thermal Paste CyberPower 1500VA pure sinewave ups Corsair K95 Platinum Keyboard Corsair Nightsword mouse ASUS ROG Strix XG438Q monitor. 4k 120hz hdr 43" Samsung 6 series 43" monitor 4k 60hz hdr 43" Yamaha MG10XU mixer AKG P120 Mic 2x Eris 4.5" studio monitors 2x Teac 3" studio monitors

cool. thank you.

no the turbo disabled itself once the core clock became higher than the turbo was. theres no turbo at all now. Just a constant 4.97ghz at 1.4ish volts. And i tried like 4 different t imes last night to disable the overclock and for some reason im still getting the same results.. Unless i manually set the voltage now back to around the 1v mark it'll automatically fluctuate from 4ish ghz to the prior OC 4.97ghz.. idk wtf is going on.. I loaded 3 different saved profiles i had in the bios.. the only thing left to do now is load optimized defaults or reflash the bios.. But then ill have the same problem i had before where it was power limit throttling.. lol.. ughhhhh fml..

i9 9900K MSI MEG Z390 Godlike 32gb 3200mhz CS16 Dominator Platinum DDR4 MSI Gaming X Trio 2080ti EVGA 1000 G5. 1k watt 80+ Gold psu Enermax Liqmax 3 ARGB 360mm AIO Asus Tuff Gaming GT501 case 970 evo nvme 500gb ssd boot drive 2x 860 evo 1tb ssd's 2x WD Blue 1tb hdd's 2x WD Blue 500gb hdd's GELID GC-Extreme Thermal Paste CyberPower 1500VA pure sinewave ups Corsair K95 Platinum Corsair Nightsword mouse ASUS ROG Strix XG438Q monitor. 4k 120hz hdr 43" Samsung 6 series 43" monitor 4k 60hz hdr 43" Yamaha MG10XU mixer AKG P120 Mic 2x Eris 4.5" studio monitors 2x Teac 3" studio monitors

indeed yes, but is it possible to "overclock" the turbo frequency? stock is 4.68ghz turbo for my specific cpu.. Id like at LEAST 5ghz turbo. if not more.

I have to be at 1.4v in order to get 5ghz stable on all cores. I dont need to have that much stress and heat on my cpu 24/7 for the type of use this computer gets. i dont do crazy benchmark competitions or anything like that.. i just want max possible performance and temps and life span within reason.. so... Can i have my core multiplier at like 30, but have my turbo multiplier at like 55? how would i go about testing this theory? i know they say to have your turbo 3 numbers LOWER than the core, but why? Is what im thinking even doable?

Yeah i keep up on a few different peopel who are always doing crazy mods for performance. I wouldnt mind getting into it but not on this particular rig. This is my daily driver.. and i dont think Liquid Nitrogen cooled 7ghz cpu is really necessary for watching youtube videos. lol. well, depends how many chrome tabs you want open at a time. lmao.

ok cool. I'll play with it. see what happens. Thanks for the info man