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alexiacat

Member
  • Content Count

    105
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About alexiacat

  • Title
    Member

System

  • CPU
    Ryzen 5 1600 @ 3.8GHz
  • Motherboard
    ASUS ROG Strix B350-F
  • RAM
    Crucial Ballistix 8GB DDR4 2400MHz (16-16-16-39)
  • GPU
    RX 560 (Core @ 1330MHz, Mem @ 1960MHz)
  • Case
    Thermaltake Core G21 TG
  • Storage
    XPG Gammix S10 NVMe M.2 256GB
  • PSU
    Thermaltake SmartPro RGB 650
  • Display(s)
    1080p60 TV @ 62Hz
  • Cooling
    Stock Cooler, 120 exhaust back, 140 exhaust top
  • Keyboard
    (Some off-brand Cherry MX Blue)
  • Mouse
    Logitech G403 Prodigy
  • Sound
    Turtle Beach PX3 / LG 2.1 Soundbar with Wireless Subwoofer
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro

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  1. I don’t know why. Mine behaves like this at a fixed speed. I have no LLC, just set to 3.8GHz at all times on all cores. Task Manager gives a totally different reading on clock speed from what CPU-Z and HW monitor say. In task manager, my speed fluctuates from about 3.5 to 3.7 in a seemingly random pattern. It will rise when idle and drop under load, and then it will go back to whatever it was before. And it does it fast too, almost always changes the speed reading in task manager about 0.5-1sec after the last update. CPU-Z shows a constant speed of 3.8GHz with fluctuations of about 0.5MHz difference. HW Monitor shows it as 3.8 at all times.
  2. Sure. I don't think it is running out of specs. I was just saying that I have the same thing, and my CPU is even on a fixed speed in BIOS. Like I said, if you installed CPU-Z or HW Monitor from CPUID and looked at the Clock Speed, that will be more accurate. You can download CPU-Z here: https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html and HW Monitor here: https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html Both will be useful. If the speed says the same thing as task manager, try setting your clock speed to a fixed number (maybe 4.0 or 3.9 GHz) in your BIOS (if it can) and if it fluctuates in Task Manager but not in HW Monitor or CPU-Z, it's probably fine.
  3. I honestly have no idea but I can totally relate. I have an R5 1600 and I have it overclocked and set to 3.8 GHz on all cores at all times in BIOS. However, task manager shows it fluxuating between 3.5 and 3.7 all the time. However, both HW Monitor and CPU-Z (monitoring tools from CPUID) show it as 3.791 GHz (3791 MHz) at all times. Every now and then, CPU-Z's reading fluxuates by about +/- 0.7MHz, but that's no real difference that could ever be noticeable. So it probably is a common AMD thing. I didn't know other people were having it until now! Try installing HW Monitor or CPU-Z and looking at your clock speeds, they are probably way more accurate.
  4. I just installed my new MasterFan MF120R RGB's (two of them) and they look great, but I have a problem. Before these, I already had a MasterFan Pro 140 Air Flow installed. I have two RGB headers, so I had to buy a splitter cable to connect the two new ones (front) to RGB_HEADER2 and I am leaving the old one (top/back) on RGB_HEADER1. Except they are on the same cycle, like they are wired together with an internal splitter cable or something rediculous like that. AURA does not list RGB_HEADER1 and RGB_HEADER2 in Config or in sequencing for a gradient setting. It just simply says "RGB HEADER" (I don't remember if it was a space or a "_" but it's RGB HEADER) So I googled the topic, and I did not see anybody else having this issue. Naturally, I checked to see if there was an update fore AURA. Latest version. So I installed the previous version, and, it did not fix it. Still said "RGB HEADER" with no 1 or 2, and there was only one "RGB HEADER" So now I am here, and I hope that someone else has had this happen/knows how to fix it or has any ideas. Both headers are 12v RGB not addressable. The motherboard is an Asus ROG Strix B350-F. In case it matters, I also have two G.Skill Trident Z RGB sticks installed. Thanks for any help or ideas in advance! Edit: I didn't really explain what I meant well about them being "on the same cycle." The new fans are always the same color as the old one, even though the old one is on its own header and the new ones are on their separate header, and in Aura I can't find a way to make it "detect" the new ones being plugged in or anything, and I can't make it change the color on each header separately.
  5. Hi, I just got an AOC AG352UCG6 and just wanted to know if it is bad or if it damages the life of the monitor to leave the panel at the 120hz OC all the time vs only when gaming, and if so, can I just go back to 60/100hz in nVidia control panel, or do I need to turn off OC in the OSD? Thanks for any advice!
  6. Okay. Thanks for the help though, I will research how to add commands to the gcode file in Cura.
  7. Sure, but I don't know how to do that. I don't know how to add commands to a gcode file or anything like that
  8. I don't know what that means. I downloaded the STL file from Thingiverse, and I sliced it with Cura 4.4
  9. I don't know how to do that; I'm a 3d printing noob. This is the second thing I've ever printed. Sorry I am very willing to learn, though.
  10. Hi, I just got my first 3D printer. It's a Monoprice MP Select Mini v2. I printed the sample cat.gcode that came with it, with no problems at all. After that, I decided to print a 3D Benchy boat to really test its abilities. Luckily I was home and sitting right by it at my computer when it finished, because after the actual model was finished printing, the nozzle stayed touching on the top of the boat instead of moving away, and at 210 degrees C, it burned PLA and made fumes. I noticed that the progress display for the print still didn't say 'Finished' like it did with the cat, so I'm thinking it has to do with the slicer. I'm using Cura 4.4, and I haven't noticed a setting for what to do after the print is finished, but the printer sure seems to think that it wasn't finished when, in fact, it was. When it was done printing the cat last night, the nozzle moved away from the part and all was fine. I need help and I'm not printing another thing until I get this fixed. We are sleeping in a household full of fumes tonight and I can't let that happen again. Anything will be appreciated; I would like to get it to the point where I can leave it to print unattended without me having to worry about this. I am new to 3D printing so I'm sorry if I misunderstand something, or if I'm just stupid and didn't see whatever caused it before I started printing. Thanks in advance Edit: I am attaching the gcode file of the print, in case anyone could more easily figure out what went wrong with it. 3D_Benchy-PLA-210_70-Raft.gcode
  11. Okay, thank you for the information. I will replace the laptop as soon as I can and avoid touching the liquid or getting it on things until then.
  12. But until I get a new laptop (I'm not gonna replace that screen, too expensive to not just buy new machine), I could clean it with alcohol, but the screen would slowly lose color and stop working as it leaks, right?
  13. I have this problem with my XPS 12 9q23 laptop from Dell, and I just wait about 20 seconds to make sure I won't be hurting anything and hold the power for 7 seconds which forces it to cut power. I have no idea how to go about solving this as this is just what I've done for the past like two or three years when it started. Fan goes up to full speed and power + keyboard lights stay on. I've left it sitting for days and it still wouldn't turn off so I don't think any amount of just time waiting would help it.
  14. Thanks for the info. That might also explain why there are bubbles and dark spots all over my screen, where it is slightly discolored. There is even a region where I can see the subpixels from a normal distance..? I won't be buying a replacement screen as for the price I would rather just put that toward a new laptop, but thanks for the info. I'm going to try cleaning it with alcohol to see if that works better.
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