Benkin

550W is all you need in this day and age, SLI?X-Fire is pretty much dying. And being replaced by much newer technologies by Nvidea and AMD. Go with a gold rated psu as it's better at 100% load if you near that much, but you won't. Honestly, I'm tired of the misinformation when it comes to wattages, 550W is more than enough, most users will need 450W. Unless you have a special workstation and or SLI/X-Fire then bump it up to 750W depending on the card. Whatever outervision spits out is only half the truth the reality is half of that. That 426W is really 213W

Yes it is only for the 9th Gen K series. My mistake, for some reason I thought he was asking about the K series

I heard they're going to be soldered, if that's something that interests you.

Was looking at some Samsung drives lately and came across all evo lines having MLC not TLC? Is this a typo? Source: Specs: https://www.samsung.com/us/computing/memory-storage/solid-state-drives/ssd-860-evo-2-5--sata-iii-250gb-mz-76e250b-am/#specs

Nothing really, just a higher price tag on the 2018 model and voltage regulation being a bit better on the 2017 model.

Then the RMX is your best bet.

It's perspective. There's a reason he's not using blue switches to game for hours upon hours, your fingers are going to hurt and cramp up. @OP I suggest buying a WASD 6-Key Cherry MX Switch Tester, if you feel you really need to get the perfect switch for your needs. Otherwise a brown switch would suffice if you're not doing anything task specific or have custom needs.

I always see you recommending the TXM / over the RMX without any good basis on why. The RMX is a step up being slightly more efficient as opposed to TXM along with being quiet, fully modular and isn't that much cheaper than an RMX. Also the RMX line comes with a 10 year warrantly for usually about $10-15 dollars more than a TXM PSU. Both are fine PSUs, but it depends what its used for, TXM for budget mid range builds and RMX for mid to high end as well as OC builds.

Right, but it's a middle ground switch of red and blue, with red used mostly for competitive gamer's and blue for tpying sepcific jobs, which a friend of mine has and has a second brown switch keyboard for gaming.

You'll want brown keys, mix of blue and red.

I thought the there was a bigger point in staying away from factory overclocked cards, as Linus mentioned once. They aren't really worth the money at medium to high end range? And you can't overclock an OC edition card further, as well as voltage being locked, from what I've heard on OC edition cards. And if you go to https://pcpartpicker.com/products/video-card/ almost all of them are OC edition cards.

What are the best non OC edition GPUs? I can only seem to find OC edition GPUs, I'd rather OC the card myself and not pay $30 extra for factory OC.

Apart from speedtest, which gave me the same results, how would I measure the two?

Good to know, thanks. By the way, are you using "gaming targeted" ram, as you said you aren't a gamer and wondering if possibly you have non gaming marketed ram, as you can save a pretty penny on ram without the marketing. Ram is ram, especially with these high prices now, I want to maximize my dollar to performance ratio.

I know what you mean. That's why I was thinking the single 8GB stick route. As in next summer I would need the ram, but by then the model/make would be different. And I don't want to subject myself to a 2x4GB loss.