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System.exit(0)

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  1. Thanks for the statistics. I might pass for the GPU since it rather makes more sense to use a water block on higher tier cards but thanks anyway, though CPU cooling looks more promising.
  2. Yes, Linus' recent video "80$ custom loop kit" pretty much sums it up. Well I guess if we can get some statistics (air vs water, 2060, theoretically) then we can wrap this thread up.
  3. I definitely would not call the 2060 a "1080P GPU". Hint: Monitor is running at 3440x1440p and the GPU hits like a king (we're talking about high to Ulta settings at almost 60fps+, sometimes greatly over 60 (80 range), depending on the title, setting / scenery (cpu & ram not overclocked + bottleneck, GPU default software one-click amateur overclocking) and since G-SYNC is everywhere now, I would even say 52-ish fps feel as fluid as 60) Though your reasoning as to why they don't mass produce the water blocks is pretty good. Theoretically, what kind of increase would be achievable with an RTX 2060 Water-cooled vs Air cooled? Is the difference in the (+) 5s, 10s, 20s 30s fps / (+) 50,100,200mhz?
  4. Since most water block manufactures don't produce a water block for the 2060 (why btw?) Does it make sense buy a waterblock for the RTX2060 from AliExpress ? Which seller/product performs best compared to branded blocks like EWGA, Swifttech, etc...?
  5. Overclocking is great and all but at the end of the day, the only thing that matters is noticeable performance. GPU overclocking makes a big noticeable difference nowadays, especially with widespread g-snyc for adaptive sync monitors this can be a noon or dawn difference. So I ponder, what actual noticeable difference does overclocking your CPU (a bit above avg. achievable overclock values) make? Does Windows feel snappier, noticeably more responsive or does it just affect that benchmark score that in the end you won't feel? Feel free to comment anything / post your experience down below! Thanks in advance!
  6. As said by linus himself: Water-cooling is expensive, unnecessary and risky. Here's the thing, most people water-cool or look forward to water-cool hardware mainly because of these reasons: Higher Overclockablity Exposures to a new experience / a whole new (interesting) topic. Tinkering and working with tools but most importantly Aesthetics Tubes with rgb, UV Neon colored fluid pushing through them and a big tank of liquid is leagues ahead of a block of metal with a black fan on the side (in terms of aesthetics)
  7. SDCardFormatter seems to give me more room. Btw EraseUS is completely trash, it didn't even detect my usb stick. Here's the problem with SDCardFormatter, it won't detect my stick. I have to manually plug the stick out and into the usb port again. Once I replug the usbstick in, sdcardformatter can detect the usb stick and the options below are clickable now but the entire programm freezes after 1-2 sec. and then the usb stick disappears from the "Select card" list. The is probably because windows is a piece of garbage and tries to auto open or whatever it tries with the usb stick, and that causes the stick to dissapear.
  8. Used a 3rd party software yesterday and had no luck. Maybe I used the wrong software or luck is on my side today, though I would need a small guide and a software recommendation.
  9. As soon as I try to use "clean" a message pops up saying: "Error in diskpart: The device is not ready. More information can be found in the system protocol."
  10. Which linux system ? I'm trying to format the drive to make it a bootable linux live stick, so I have a linux system but how am I supposed to do that atm with all those issues? I highly doubt that ,that is the issue with the stick.
  11. I have a USB Stick 64 GB 2.0 (i know) which after formating and converting it to a bootable linux drive refuses to cooperate anymore what so ever. As soon as I try to format it a message pops up saying "No medium found on drive E:, put in a medium and try again". I can't open it manually, it shows me the same message but without the yellow warning sign. Using diskpart didn't help either, I can select the disk (size: 0B, free: 0B, neither Dyn nor GPT is marked asterisk) but as soon as I list the partitions, a message in the cmd window tells me that "there's no partitions on this drive that can be shown" When I try to create a primary partition on the usb stick via diskpart, a giant message pops up in the cmd window -> " Yes its plugged into a 2.0 Port, I tried other ones too and even 3.0. Chkdsk tells me :"cannot open volume for direct access"
  12. Leave if you can't even hold yourself for 2 minutes honestly how old are you 12?. Completely pointless. Tried and found nothing except dying light and DL:The Following. Both completed 100%, pretty good but lack of soundtracks and a somewhat acceptable story are the only flaws.
  13. So we don't have any "Uncharted 4", "Last of US", "Zero Dawn" equvilant on pc? That's daunting, thanks pirates. Since there's no ps4 emulation, is there any ps4 cloud gaming renting service?
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