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EsaT

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About EsaT

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  1. Would this be safe?

    When laptop is running its heat output will definitely keep its insides dry. Unless you let it touch snow which might melt. But before bringing it back inside put it into closed bag and let it warm some hours to room temperature before opening bag again. That way condensation from room air happens to outside of bag. Relative humidity is bad measure in this case. What matters is dew point of air. If that's higher than temperature of object, there will be condensation. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dew_point#/media/File:Dewpoint-RH.svg
  2. Question about Aigo Fans

    For their very poor 20000h lifetime they're completely exorbitantly priced. Also with 0,35A current wouldn't put more than two to one motherboard header.
  3. Most important thing is common sense. (even if it isn't that common) And thinking at least twice before doing anything when you're new to building PC. Depends entirely on environment and climate. I can guarantee there are places when ESD zapping stuff would be as easy as sitting into chair and touching exposed circuitry.
  4. Question about semi-open headphones/headsets

    Then you shouldn't trust single word they say. Keyboard noises are magnitude bigger background noise source than any sound leak from headphones at any kind hearing safe volume. That goes double for mechanical keyboards. And closed design itself is big challenge sound quality needed for best gaming capability. Unless your definition of sound quality is more bass. So where do you live? In Europe?
  5. If previous speakers had less noise there might be also some kind interaction between motherboard's sound card and amplifier/receiver. How's your Windows volume setting? If it's low you could try lowering volume setting of receiver and increase Windows volume to see if anything changes. Low Windows volume setting drops voltage of actual audio signal low and that makes any circuitry background noise/most interference stronger in relation to it.
  6. Headphone Cable Wrapping Around Itself...

    There's likely somekind tension to those knots in calbe. You could try warming cable little while pulling it straighter and letting it cool. Basically doing the opposite of how to do spiral cable:
  7. Any reason other than fashion for that? Having marketing pee filled pipes instead of heatpipes doesn't make heat disappear any more easily. Mid priced and sized Scythe Mugen 5 crushes both Masterliquid Pro and Lite 240 in cooling performance per noise: https://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/8688/cooler-master-masterliquid-ml240l-rgb-cpu-review/index6.html And then there's long term reliablity aspect... Unless having manufacturing flaw heatpipes will keep working untill physically broken by something. While Alu radiator with likely copper block is risk of galvanic corrosion... Assuming water molecules permeating through tubes over time doesn't make cooling fail before that. Countering both that and degradation of coolant's corrosion inhibitors would need ability to refill/replace coolant.
  8. Noctua NH-U14S on i7-7700k

    Guess you'll be avoiding stock coolers from now on, eh? Despite of that silver hype AS5 is average and lost its position in higher end long long ago. Though would expect Cryorig's thermal paste to make only small difference at most, because differences between most pastes are inside couple degrees. https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/thermal-paste-comparison,5108-9.html
  9. lookin for a new pair of headphones

    While likely those others have no problem with spending some 700-800€ to PC component, which loses majority of value in couple years and becomes mostly valueless in five years... There are some very good open headphones for gaming little above 100€, so buying affordable open ones now to test sound leaking and saving little more could be one option. Myself bought these just as experiment some years ago. https://www.thomann.de/de/superlux_hd_330.htm If their ear pads didn't feel like made for small Asian head and cable was better (rather stiff coiled cable) those would be for its price very good for fun gaming. (reference points Beyer DT990/HD595 Sennheiser) Though it's "only" semi-open even that doesn't make any real difference to sound isolation, except high frequencies. HD-681 would be even cheaper. https://www.thomann.de/de/superlux_hd681_b.htm
  10. Certainly even lot less is enough, if managing to put all current through heart. Even from rather low voltage source, especially if having say wire pierce skin bypassing most of body's normal resistance. And any kind heart condition could increase its vulnerability to disturbance. But pulse of DC is relatively safe compared to any AC. Though if happening at same time with heart starting its beat that would likely increase risks. Anyway reporters making selling headlines aren't the most accurate sources. Suspect there were aggravating factors like skipping jumpstarting PSU after disconnecting it from wall to empty capacitors and cheap garbage PSU without bleeder resistors.
  11. Unless messing with things power wire still connected to wall, worst that can happen is defibrillator like single "kick". Which would certainly at least hurt lot... But without knowing what kind fan and its control that PSU uses there's risk of causing overheating of something by replacing fan. As for topic line can't claim low noise level for PSUs of earliers PCs. 15+ years ago avoiding noise wasn't high in PSU design priority list and most just had fixed speed fans. Put last three PSUs, from Seasonic, have certainly done good job in avoiding unnecessary fan noise. (models from original M12-serie, first X-serie and now Prime Titanium) 650W and even 550W is already that for GTX 1060 level graphics card. Gaming draw of that PC is likely 250W.
  12. Buying a UPS.!! Please Help.

    That should be good for 5 mins of light desktop use. Though wouldn't fully trust any specifications of it. It seems to use similar BS power rating as cheap eBay whatever PSUs and about 250W being likely actual maximum output power. Runtime dropping that insanely sharply nearing rated max output tells there's something extremely undersized in it. https://www.apc.com/products/runtime_chart.cfm?sku=BX650LI-MS Honestly specced UPS has smooth runtime curve instead of sharp drop in end. Battery looks like normal 7.something Ah 12V battery. https://www.apc.com/shop/ph/en/products/APC-Replacement-Battery-Cartridge-110/P-APCRBC110
  13. Buying a UPS.!! Please Help.

    You forgot avoiding deep discharges. If lead acid battery is constantly discharged to low charge that can destroy it fast. Catching fire like pyrotechnics is job of lithium based batteries, lead acid batteries don't do that. Though in case of non-sealed lead batteries there is potential risk of explosion. Charging/discharging current causing some electrolysis of water creates "slightly" flammable mixture.
  14. Correct term is galvanic corrosion... just like what happens in galvanic cells we call batteries. And it's huge pain in the butt for any kind mechanical engineering involving building structures from metals. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion With more anodic material getting eaten... https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2012/01/24/corrosion-explored/ Get over marketing lines: There is no good, long term reliable, cheap water cooling.
  15. Audio not working

    If there's no sound also from other source device that kinda implies fault being in headset. USB dongle might have messed playback device config of Windows explaining why Sony headphones didn't give sound either. So did you make sure integrated Realtek was default playback device when trying them? Also wouldn't be first time if Windows volume mixer had for some reason muted sounds. So check it.
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