PEagle

Things you can try : - re plug your screen if possible with another wire - DDU your drivers (to have a proper clean install) - De-activate XMP for your memory profile.

For supplies, I agree, but it's that kind of thinks I'd like to make better/cleaner : I'm still looking at videos but I know it's gonna be a long trip if I ever take it. For the stress test, it was not 45 minutes but the coolant temp was stabilised and here are the results : - CPU 63.4 - GPU 47.5 - Coolant 38.5 - Estimated ambiant 23-25

A good idea, I'll keep it in mind for the next time I change the arrangement. I'm not expecting to redo all the cables, just the one that are visible from the glass side, that would also allow me to take and retake measurements at will not feeling like I've wasted 30€ because of a failed measure. But it's still a project and I need to spend time thinking about it. Whatever happens, I'm gonna have to think it through and take time to do it if I ever decide to cross the line.

Thanks a lot, it was quite an adventure, the only tube I'd like to have made longer is GPU to CPU, it feels a bit "pinched" as I did not predict the PCIe connectors to interact with it. Custom cables is on the list of projects, I'm learning how to do it through videos and will check if it's worth it doing it by myself. I did not really do a stress test. Though mining (after several hours) leads me to 76°C memory junction (vs 108 before), fluid around 35°C and GPU around 36°C. I'll need to stress test it with GPU + CPU. Which program would you recommend ?

It's been complete for about a week now, it was quite an adventure but I'm really happy I've gone the extra mile and done it. Thanks to all of you for your advices and your time, I wouldn't have done it (or at least not properly) without you. Here's a picture : And here are the plans for the future : An extra 360mm rad at the bottom Relocating the HDDs and maybe dropping 2 of them Relocating the res to the front (needed to make room for the HDDs) Adding extra fans/swapping the back one for a 140mm And in a much further future, rigid tubes.

My first ever watercooled build is complete, there were ups and downs, I've discovered how tunnel vision can make one very dumb. I'm open to any (constructive) criticism but the system will soon evolve as I'm planning on an additional 360 rad (bottom of the case), relocating the HDDs (and maybe dropping 2 of them). For a much further future, I think I'll try hard tubing, but seeing how soft tubing has gone, I'd like to have everything ready and in place to see how to do it before even considering it.

In the end it appears the Xflow was too long, I went for the nexxxos. At the moment I'm still on the standard loop and I'll take my time to fill and bleed. I don't think they did a standard for FE this genereation, or at least I've not seen it. I did not find them, plus that would make me loose the pressure membrane so I'll go the long way. Done and parts are ordered. Items expected to arrive from 8th of october, I hope they'll quickly arrive as I'm already impatient. Thanks for all of your very precious help.

it's already released and available in silver, but I feel I'll like black much more so I'll wait. Yep, I've looked at their website but availability is different so I'll need to wait for different parts and I'm cheaping out on shipping... So casekings it is. (I'll still check more local shops to see if I can get the crossflow after checking size.) Edit : Doesn't fit 532 for rad, 530 max clearance... not worth the risk for a first build IMO even with the port on top that can act as a drain valve ? yep, will order on amazon for a fair price and immediate availability. I'm rethinking the loop routing as this pump doesn't have a top port. I'll call it a night, but I'll make sure to read you tomorrow if you have any other advices. Thanks a lot for all of your help and all your advices, cheers.

The rad being unavailable where I order is making me go the easy route to the nexxxos xt45 The ultitube appears to have one, that plus the glass aspect made me switch despite the higher price. I also included the drain port and will make sure to use it with the pre drilled hole in the case. I see that you're in germany, can you tell me if "Ab 12 Oktober" means they'll be restocked on the 12th or if it's unsure and that I may have to wait (possibly much) longer ? New part list would be as follows :

That settles on for a 480, modularity is a strong point there. Aren't these less efficient than "U-turn flow" ? I'd go with the alphacool NexXos for the ports especially because of availability on casekings, I did not consider it. Indeed, i did not find it at first, but I see they're quite similar. Can you tell me what makes it better/what kind of trouble there can be with acrylic ? And I suppose I can't get the EK and put the Aqua computer tank Are these necessary, the temperature delta on water will be minimal and I can't think of any real thermal expansion because of it... Or maybe I'm missing the big picture. Thanks, I get it now. I think that case has a pre-drilled hole there for that purpose.

But how would you use it? put a tube in there to help direct the waterflow ?

Feels more efficient, more surface with less fans... I need 1 SSD + 4 HDD but I think it would fit with rad on the side. If I'm not mistaken 420 and 480 fits there and would go with the same fittings and routing. I'll take a look but I quite like the look of the EK pump res combo. As for the height, 300 feels like it's going to look nice and easy to fill. For fans, I'm going with 4 140 (3 front and 1 back) for the moment but non RGB, will RGB in the future when finances get better. I'm taking all the advices I can so fire away and thanks for all info provided so far.

I have changed a lot of things with the build options and am now on a different part list. Following other people recommendation, I'll try to go with clear mayhems tube in 10/16 and that way I can switch to ZMT if needed or wanted. Just to show you how I plan the new one : and : thanks for your help I'll make sure to post pictures of the complete build when I'm done.

The user who mentionned it also mentionned plasticizer. Is it really an issue or is it blown out of proportion ? Tubing would be 10/16, I understand why you mention it could be harder to bend. The advantage of the Enthoo pro 2 is its price and it's about the size of my current case (Corsair 750D) so I was thinking of going with that one. I'd be able to fit a 480 in there and go on from there if I need to add another rad... I'm still trying to figure all of this out as it's much more expensive than previously thought

First of all, thanks to the two of you. I had posted the question on reddit as well and everybody is agreeing on the fact that this rad won't be enough for this build, however my current case will not be very good at fitting other rads without compromising a lot. Following suggestion, I'm headead to an enthoo pro 2 with a PE480 and an external adapter for the optical drive. I've also been suggested to take ZMT tubing, I'll make sure to take a dimension that's compatible with dura clear as well so I can switch if I change my mind in the future. I'll need to think how to order my loop and how to put the drain plug but I'll make sure to put one. For your PS's questions/remarks, I'll remove the plug from the list, I just forgot to that time. For fittings, I'll see how to do and may go with some 90° to help counter potential kinks. The idea of not switching case was for several reasons : - Money saving - Keeping the optical drive - several HDD/SSD that I want to keep in there I think I'll remake a subject once I decide on everything and for another sanity check.

Hi everyone, Following my gaming and occasional mining adventures, temps have me worried and I'd like to take the step and watercool my build. To keep it simple and ensure compatibility between parts, I've decided to go full EK and use soft tubing. Here's the build : 3700X Strix 570 E Gaming 3080 Founder's edition 4 sticks of 8Gb Trident Z 4 HDD 2 NVME 1 SSD 1 BD Writer Cooler master V850 PSU Corsair 750D case Here's the part list from EK : And here's how I plan to set it up : Sorry for the non cable management by the way, I'll plan it better when placing the loop. So here are my (noob's) questions: 1 - For the fans, I was thinking of going with Noctuas NF-A12x25 PWM but some reviews placed the NF-F12 industrialPPC-3000 PWM as being much better, any recommendations here on which to take, or even if I should go to another brand? 2 - Does this loop look fine and do-able or did I miss something that would prevent it from being made ? 3 - Do you see anything wrong or missing with my part list (except for the fans) ? 4 - Is that pump using the D5 highly praised by Linus (and Jayz iirc) ? 5 - I'll soon need to change my case fans, once again, any recommendation on that ? If you have any other tips or remarks, I'll gladly hear them. Thanks

Single stick works on DIMMS A2 and B2 (both sticks) but not on B1 (either stick). I bought them from the same retailer, I'll check with them if I can go to one of their shops to have it checked out, but I'd like to avoid being without a Mobo for a while :/

Thanks for your answers. CPU has not been damaged as far as I know (not dropped and only installed once. So it's quite unlikely). I checked the QVL and it appears that it's OK and can handle those sticks as a 4 DIMM (so 2 kits as far as I understand). I'll check later during the day but to access the computer it was working downcloking the memory (to 1600MHz) though I did not test it properly. However having paid for samsung b-die and 3200MHz CL14 I'd like to be able to use it as advertised. I'll try to see if I can find someone close with RAM that I can borrow but I fear I'd have to buy it to test acurately. I'm currently running A2 B2 but I'll have to upgrade at some point and if I have to RMA the MoBo, it's within the next year, hence my questions.

Hi everybody, I'm currently struggling with RAM issues (crashes, freezes and random hiccups). I have tested several configurations with the windows RAM diagnostic tools, here is a sum up of the result. When in Slot B1 (closest to CPU) both sticks fail to pass When in slot B2 or A2 or both, test passes regardless of which/how sticks are placed. Slot A1 not tested. (Motherboard manual specifies to populate slots A2 and B2 first) I think both my sticks are OK but I want to make sure which part is to change before I RMA, so here are my questions : 1- Can CPU or PSU cause RAM issue on some slots and not all of them ? 2- Is it possible that slot B1 fails because slots A2 and B2 are not populated ? (i.e. would switching to 4 sticks solve the issue) 3- Is there a way to make sure it is the motherboard failing ? 4- Could it be a compatibility issue between RAM/CPU/MoBo ? 5- Only 2*4 CPU pins are plugged, could plugging 3*4 solve the issue ? In advance, thanks for your time. Specs : Windows 10 64 bits version 20H2 bulid 19042.985 Ryzen 3700X with stock cooler stock settings Asus Strix X570 E-gaming G-skill trident Z 3200MHz CL 14 (2 x 8GB) used at 3200MHz DOCP Geforce 3080 Fouders Edition 850 W coolermaster V850 960 Evo SSD for OS 1 Other SSD (Sata) and 4 HDD 1 Blu ray drive

right, thanks for the tip !

I was looking for it in the Advanced mode much easier to find in there. I did turn it to "profile #1" and it is now running as intended. Thank you very much for your help. Next step for me will be to try and overclock both CPU and Memory, but I'll need to read a lot on that before I try it ! Have a nice one.

It's an option in the AI-tweaker menu in the BIOS I need to check for XMP/DCOP

Hi, I recently updated my computer to go to a R7 3700X and with it took an Asus Strix X570-E Gaming paired with two sticks of 8GB G.Skill trident Z RGB DDR 3200 MHz CAS 14. I'm satisfied with how it runs compared to my previous setup though I'm having quite an issue with RAM speed and timings. All timings given with HWinfo 64. If I set the motherboard to auto regarding DDR frequency, it sets it to 1064MHz (so 2128MHz) and CAS 15-15-15-36 If I set the DDR to 3200MHz it sets it to 1597MHz (close enough to the 3200) but with CAS 22-22-22-53 so nowhere near the performance I should get with that. My problem is that I did not find how to change the latency in the BIOS. I have a place where it is listed and set to auto but I cannot change it to the values given by the manufacturer. Can anyone tell me how to change them or at least get closer to what I paid for ? System details : R7 3700X Stock cooler Asus X570-E Gaming 2 x G.Skill trident Z RGB 3200MHz CAS 14 Asus Strix 1070 Coolermaster v850

JayzTwoCents' apparently was not one this time...

Cooling for stock should be okay, I'd go with a fan in the front of the case, another one working as an exhaust in the back. For power supply, it's a matter of having extra room and not working in the high end of the PSU and will future proof a bit.