Mavflight09

Fiio E10K usb-c Schiit fulla 2 Fiio K3 These are a little expensive for just a Pro82 but will last pretty much forever and scale with whatever headphones you pair with them up to about the $500~ range. If that's a little too expensive, honestly on board audio will probably be fine but I would personally consider a amp/dac for any headphone.

100% recommend the Takstar Pro 82's Here is a reply I wrote and copy / pasted from another thread: Takstar Pro 82 would be my recommendation; been using them for the last 4 years: Excellent comfort (my main priority) Sound good, (with bass ports closed; low bass is tight, controlled, and punchy without bleeding into mids) detachable cable 3.5mm with 1/4 trs adapter included flight case for transport Excellent adjustability (smallest setting could fit on a toddler, while the largest setting work work for even the biggest heads) Only downside is that the pads aren't replaceable (glued on) and they start to flake quite quickly Lol this looks like the frequency response of the Delta "complementary" earphones

Since you have an SM7B (notoriously hard to drive): I would recommend: Triton Audio FetHead in line preamp with an Behringer UMC22 interface. Probably as cheap as I would go before you start to seriously sacrifice audio quality. The Behringer UMC202HD is a great step up from the UMC22 if you want something a little higher quality. A little higher would be the PreSonus Studio 24c: A staple of small recording studio's and amateur music artists everywhere.

Takstar Pro 82 would be my recommendation; been using them for the last 4 years: Excellent comfort (my main priority) Sound good, (with bass ports closed; low bass is tight, controlled, and punchy without bleeding into mids) detachable cable 3.5mm with 1/4 trs adapter included flight case for transport Excellent adjustability (smallest setting could fit on a toddler, while the largest setting work work for even the biggest heads) Only downside is that the pads aren't replaceable (glued on) and they start to flake quite quickly

So how about this? Buy an amp dac combo for your headphones; plug the speakers directly into the rear of the mobo, and microphone goes USB to mobo? Fiio K3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KR3RF4H Schiit Fulla E https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09G4NTNGM Here's a slightly more budget friendly option: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B098TKMNKG/

Oh, in this case it doesn't really seem like you need an interface. Why do you feel like you need one? I didn't know your mic was a USB mic.

Sorry if this is really generic advice but I'm kinda just throwing things out there: You know most water-blocks are directional right? Make sure you have the In's and Out's correct. It could be very restrictive to force water through a block backwards. You could also have an air bubble in the pump, but that is typically very obvious as it makes a gurgling noise as the pump sucks air. Maybe the pump just died? Check you loop order? Does the pump have a variable speed, either a nob on it, some take a PWM signal to set pump speed. Thought they usually go wide open if they don't recieve a speed signal. Maybe you just turned the nob my accident (if it has one).

How about the Behringer UMC22? $59.00 on Amazon right now. I have the UMC202HD and it's been great. Just plug and play I don't bother with the drivers, windows 10 has compatible drivers out of the box for 24bit/192kHz. Though keep in mind the UMC22 only supports up to 48kHz. Edit: For you TONOR mic; Please use an XLR to XLR cable to plug it into the interface. Most cheap mic's on Amazon (or similar online retailers) come with an XLR to 1/4" TRS cable. Using this included cable prevents the interface from being able to provide phantom power to the microphone. (Little switch to turn it on, on the back side of the interface.) While phantom power is not required for these mics to work, providing it will significantly increase audio quality. More info here: https://stampsound.com/does-phantom-power-work-through-a-1-4-inch-cable/

You could try going to device manager and disabling the integrated graphics adapter. Kind of the nuclear option, but it should work.

For what it's worth I see the same thing. I used a program ( I don't think I can say the name of it, but take a guess ) to download the 2 videos offline in original quality and the 2019 ROG rig reboot does look noticeably better on a 1440p IPS display. The Steam deck video from today has compression artifacts that are easily visible. If I had to guess they used significantly higher compression since they were on the go and wanted to get the video out fast? Just a guess though. I have only checked those 2 videos but I'll go through a few more randomly.

Ah, sorry, I didn't see the link. I found something in the mobo's manual that you could check real quick. It's typically used by extreme overclockers who have trouble starting their computers when the cpu is at -100C or whatever. It won't hurt to enable it and may allow your computer to cold start.

Could you elaborate a bit more on what exactly happens when you do a cold start? By 'the computer does not POST' do you mean the computer powers on and fails POST resulting in the computer turning back off? Or do you mean the computer literally does not turn on at all. As in, the power button may as well not be plugged into the mobo because it doesn't do anything?

I would suggest mounting your old 360mm aio back to the cpu and see what temps are like first. Even if it doesn't fit in the case just lay it outside for a quick test. If temps are fine with the 360mm then you can rule the 280mm aio as being defective. This is a good point but OP said they remounted it twice so it would be kinda hard to get it wrong 3 times + you can check your thermal paste spread from the last mount. I think I'm leaning towards a pump issue.

If it's not in windows explorer, it's not in device manager or disk manager; but it is sometimes still recognized in BIOS, but not in windows; sometimes not at all (not in BIOS or windows).

Computer Type: Custom Build GPU: MSI GTX 1070 Hybrid CPU: Ryzen 5 3600 Motherboard: Asrock x570 Taichi RAM: 4 x 8gb Kingston Hyper X Fury 2133mhz 14-14-14-34 1.2v PSU: EVGA 850w P2 Case: NZXT H440 Operating System & Version: Windows 10 Enterprise 1809 GPU Drivers: 441.87 Chipset Drivers: 2.07.14.327 Background Applications: n/a; Occurs on first boot. Description of Original Problem: My 8tb WD White Label hard drive is occasionally not recognized upon booting the PC. As in, sometimes I start the computer, and the drive shows up in windows explorer, and sometimes I start the computer and it's not there. Troubleshooting: I've tried changing sata power cable, sata data cable, and tested all 8 sata ports on my motherboard. The issue still exists. I have 6 total sata devices plugged in, but the issue happens even when only the 8tb drive is plugged in, and the hard drive isn't the issue; This hard drive was used in my previous Intel build for over a year and never had an issue. It's happened on multiple BIOS versions: P1.10, P2.10, P2.70, P2.80, P3.00 I've tried loading optimized defaults, to see if maybe it was an unstable ram overclock, but the issue still happens even with all stock settings applied. Tried disabling esata support, still happens. Tried reseating many things: CPU, RAM, sata power and sata data cables on both ends, GPU. Anyone got any ideas?

I've reached the conclusion that my R5 3600's die is incorrectly soldered to the IHS; rare but it can happen. I tested the stock cooler and got 94.5°C maximum, terrible just like the AIO. But both of them can't be bad, (how can a piece of aluminum be defective anyways?) The cpu is only drawing about 70 watts, and I've seen this exact AIO, the exact one that's cooling the R5 3600, cooled my old 8700k at 5.1ghz drawing 230 watts. The fact that the radiator isn't even warm tells me that very little heat is escaping the IHS and getting into the block and subsequently the radiator. Yea, Cinebench gets it to 80+ in a single run.

How could it be an overvoltage issue if I'm at stock settings? The voltage in ryzen master says 1.334-1.338v average core voltage and peak core voltage. (They are the same value) I can tell the AIO isn't struggling at all because the end tanks are cool to the touch, the air coming off the radiator is also cool. There is very little heat being being put into the radiator. Compared to my hybrid 1070's end tanks which, after running furmark for 20m, are hot to the touch and you can feel the hot air coming off the radiator. (like it should be) I can also confirm I used the correct mounting hardware: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Accessories-|-Parts/PC-Components/Cooling/AM4-AMD-Retention-Bracket-Kit-for-Hydro-Series™-Coolers/p/CW-8960046#tab-overview Tightened as tight as it can go by hand the first time, then wrenched down with pliers the second time when I re pasted. Sorry if I'm being difficult, I'm just trying to avoid hours of work to prove what I can already confidently conclude.

Probably a thermal transfer issue between the CPU and block. Fired up Furmark on my hybrid 1070 and felt the end tank on the radiator: It was hot to the touch and you could feel the hot air coming off radiator it's self. On the other hand the CPU radiator's end tank is cool to the touch despite prime95 being running for nearly 40mins, the air coming off the radiator is also cool.

Installed ryzen master, ran prime95, 87.5°C, 74.8w power draw. The temperature histogram shows a near complete flat line, no spikes up and down. Some thoughts: The AIO can't be defective, it was cooling my 8700k fine just a few months ago. Ambient temperatures are the same. Pump has to be working or else it would actually overheat because heat would just slowly build up, but it doesn't do that. It shoots up to 88°C then stays there no matter how long the test is. I could try the stock cooler, but it's the stock cooler. It's going to perform the way everyone else's stock cooler performs, and I don't really feel like spending multiple hours to prove what I can already conclude. (though I might do it anyways, this is kind of bugging me) The only thing I can think of is that the block/pump isn't making full contact with the CPU, like the mounting screws are too long and preventing the cooler from coming down onto the CPU fully. I can't have used the wrong mounting hardware right? Or else it wouldn't fit. Could I have accidentally used the AM3 mounting hardware instead of the AM4 mounting hardware? I pay very close attention to detail and took my time when building this computer, but I'm starting to doubt myself.

All fans and pump are set to maximum speed, as stated in the original post.

I've tested with the front panel and dust filter removed, as shown in the original post. Didn't make a large difference (3-4°C difference.) I believe this evidence can be used to come to the conclusion that the case having bad airflow is not a large deal in this situation. With the front panel removed the AIO has completely unimpeded airflow (you can literally stick your finger in the fan) I have already remounted the cooler and repasted, as said in the original post. Max voltage under load never exceeded 1.325v, however setting a voltage limit would effect processor performance would it not? I believe it was shown that undervolting zen2 CPU's is a bad idea as it drastically impacts performance.

Will do, give me a minute. Latest version of HWinfo should be accurate? BIOS isn't the latest version, but is the latest version that actually matters: AMD AGESA Combo-AM4 1.0.0.4 Patch B Later BIOS updates just "Optimize chipset fan curve" and "1. Add auto rule for specific memory module. 2. Improve UAD-2 DUO audio card compatibility." I'm waiting on AGESA 1005 to be released before updating. H115i Extreme's pump is powered by sata power cable, it's plugged in, and I can confirm in corsair IQUE that the pump is spinning at 3000rpm (max speed).

CPU: R5 3600 Motherboard: Asrock x570 Taichi Case: NZXT H440 BIOS version: P3.00 Load Optimized Defaults: Yes Ryzen Maser is installed, all stock settings applied. Fresh install of Windows 10 Enterprise. Drivers installed from Asrock's website for the x570 Taichi. Cooler: Corsair H115i Extreme, with 4 Corsair SP140 fans mounted in push/pull, cooler mounted at the front of the case pulling fresh cool air in. Pump speed set to maximum; all fans set to maximum. Thermal Paste: Cooler Master Mastergel Maker; Application method: Pea size dot in center of cpu Ambient Temperature: 21°C - 22°C All Stress Tests: Prime95 Temperature Logging: HWinfo Additional temperature logging: Ryzen Master (to ensure HWinfo isn't giving false readings; the readings are identical) Results: 88°C maximum, 87°C average, taken 20 minutes after reaching thermal equilibrium. Second test with the only difference being the front panel of the case being removed and the dust filter is removed: Results: 85°C maximum, 83°C average, taken 20 minutes after reaching thermal equilibrium. Third test with stock cooler: Results: 94.5°C maximum, 94°C average, taken 20 minutes after reaching thermal equilibrium. Fourth test with repasted AIO (again): Results: 94.5°C maximum, 93°C average, taken 20 minutes after reaching thermal equilibrium. (I got a slightly worse thermal paste spread this time, resulting in the 4°C~ delta from the original.) This exact cooler in this exact configuration was able to keep my old delidded i7 8700k at 5.1ghz, 1.392vcore, approximately 230w power draw to cpu alone, at 77°C maximum, 75°C average. I used the AM4 bracket included in the box, all standoffs tightened with pliers as tight as I can get them; the 4 screws holding the block/pump to the CPU are wrenched down as tight as I can get them. (No, I don't usually do this, bad idea, but I wanted to ensure mounting pressure is not an issue) How is the R5 3600 running hotter than my old 8700k while drawing 160w less power? (Yes I know I delidded the 8700k, but the R5 3600 is soldered, so there shouldn't be a big difference) 8700k at 5.1ghz: 230w R5 3600 stock: 70w Both the stock cooler and the AIO can't be defective. And I know the AIO isn't defective, it cooled my 8700k fine; dissipating about 230 watts. The weird thing is, the AIO isn't struggling at all (as it shouldn't be with a 70w CPU), the radiator's end tanks are room temperature to the touch, not cool (obv.), but not warm either. In comparison, running furmark on my hybrid 1070 results in the 120mm radiator's end tank being hot to the touch, with hot air pouring off of the radiator. All of this testing has lead me to conclude that the R5 3600 that I have is defective from the factory; the CPU die is incorrectly soldered to the IHS, resulting in the heat being trapped in the IHS, not making it to the cooler. Can anyone here give me a sanity check to ensure I haven't missed anything?

Yea there appears to be an issue with the x570 taichi with the adata sx8200: When put in the lowest m.2 slot (M2_3) speed is 2200MB/s When put in the middle m.2 slot (M2_2) speed is 2600MB/s When put in the top m.2 slot (M2_1) speed is 2900MB/s I don't think it's a driver issue because if it was, the drive wouldn't speed up and slow down depending on which m.2 slot it was placed in. Also tried with a pcie 3.0 x4 to m.2 adapter and still only got 2900MB/s. On my 8700k+Asrock z370 gamimg k6 I got the full 3200MB/s. Tried updating BIOS to P2.00, nah. Tried benching on linux to see if it was a windows issue, no dice. Load optimized defaults in bios, nada. Overclock RAM in case that's important, nope. Disconnected everything but a GPU, boot SSD, and the adata sx8200, still nope. Tried with 1, 2, and 4 sticks of ram, still 2900MB/s in the top slot. Asrock support has been shockingly unhelpful basically just saying "well it works for us so good luck"

Any one have any ideas? Updated to BIOS version P2.00 still no luck. Tried with AS SSD in case CrystalDiskMark was being weird; same results. Only about 2,200MB/s read. Crystal disk info says the SSD is at PCIe gen3x4 which is correct but it shows the NVMe standard as 1.2 instead of 1.3. Maybe a driver issue?