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About Mavflight09

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  1. If it's not in windows explorer, it's not in device manager or disk manager; but it is sometimes still recognized in BIOS, but not in windows; sometimes not at all (not in BIOS or windows).
  2. Computer Type: Custom Build GPU: MSI GTX 1070 Hybrid CPU: Ryzen 5 3600 Motherboard: Asrock x570 Taichi RAM: 4 x 8gb Kingston Hyper X Fury 2133mhz 14-14-14-34 1.2v PSU: EVGA 850w P2 Case: NZXT H440 Operating System & Version: Windows 10 Enterprise 1809 GPU Drivers: 441.87 Chipset Drivers: Background Applications: n/a; Occurs on first boot. Description of Original Problem: My 8tb WD White Label hard drive is occasionally not recognized upon booting the PC. As in, sometimes I start the computer, and the drive shows up in windows explorer, and sometimes I start the computer and it's not there. Troubleshooting: I've tried changing sata power cable, sata data cable, and tested all 8 sata ports on my motherboard. The issue still exists. I have 6 total sata devices plugged in, but the issue happens even when only the 8tb drive is plugged in, and the hard drive isn't the issue; This hard drive was used in my previous Intel build for over a year and never had an issue. It's happened on multiple BIOS versions: P1.10, P2.10, P2.70, P2.80, P3.00 I've tried loading optimized defaults, to see if maybe it was an unstable ram overclock, but the issue still happens even with all stock settings applied. Tried disabling esata support, still happens. Tried reseating many things: CPU, RAM, sata power and sata data cables on both ends, GPU. Anyone got any ideas?
  3. I've reached the conclusion that my R5 3600's die is incorrectly soldered to the IHS; rare but it can happen. I tested the stock cooler and got 94.5°C maximum, terrible just like the AIO. But both of them can't be bad, (how can a piece of aluminum be defective anyways?) The cpu is only drawing about 70 watts, and I've seen this exact AIO, the exact one that's cooling the R5 3600, cooled my old 8700k at 5.1ghz drawing 230 watts. The fact that the radiator isn't even warm tells me that very little heat is escaping the IHS and getting into the block and subsequently the radiator. Yea, Cinebench gets it to 80+ in a single run.
  4. How could it be an overvoltage issue if I'm at stock settings? The voltage in ryzen master says 1.334-1.338v average core voltage and peak core voltage. (They are the same value) I can tell the AIO isn't struggling at all because the end tanks are cool to the touch, the air coming off the radiator is also cool. There is very little heat being being put into the radiator. Compared to my hybrid 1070's end tanks which, after running furmark for 20m, are hot to the touch and you can feel the hot air coming off the radiator. (like it should be) I can also confirm I used the correct mounting hardware: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Accessories-|-Parts/PC-Components/Cooling/AM4-AMD-Retention-Bracket-Kit-for-Hydro-Series™-Coolers/p/CW-8960046#tab-overview Tightened as tight as it can go by hand the first time, then wrenched down with pliers the second time when I re pasted. Sorry if I'm being difficult, I'm just trying to avoid hours of work to prove what I can already confidently conclude.
  5. Probably a thermal transfer issue between the CPU and block. Fired up Furmark on my hybrid 1070 and felt the end tank on the radiator: It was hot to the touch and you could feel the hot air coming off radiator it's self. On the other hand the CPU radiator's end tank is cool to the touch despite prime95 being running for nearly 40mins, the air coming off the radiator is also cool.
  6. Installed ryzen master, ran prime95, 87.5°C, 74.8w power draw. The temperature histogram shows a near complete flat line, no spikes up and down. Some thoughts: The AIO can't be defective, it was cooling my 8700k fine just a few months ago. Ambient temperatures are the same. Pump has to be working or else it would actually overheat because heat would just slowly build up, but it doesn't do that. It shoots up to 88°C then stays there no matter how long the test is. I could try the stock cooler, but it's the stock cooler. It's going to perform the way everyone else's stock cooler performs, and I don't really feel like spending multiple hours to prove what I can already conclude. (though I might do it anyways, this is kind of bugging me) The only thing I can think of is that the block/pump isn't making full contact with the CPU, like the mounting screws are too long and preventing the cooler from coming down onto the CPU fully. I can't have used the wrong mounting hardware right? Or else it wouldn't fit. Could I have accidentally used the AM3 mounting hardware instead of the AM4 mounting hardware? I pay very close attention to detail and took my time when building this computer, but I'm starting to doubt myself.
  7. All fans and pump are set to maximum speed, as stated in the original post.
  8. I've tested with the front panel and dust filter removed, as shown in the original post. Didn't make a large difference (3-4°C difference.) I believe this evidence can be used to come to the conclusion that the case having bad airflow is not a large deal in this situation. With the front panel removed the AIO has completely unimpeded airflow (you can literally stick your finger in the fan) I have already remounted the cooler and repasted, as said in the original post. Max voltage under load never exceeded 1.325v, however setting a voltage limit would effect processor performance would it not? I believe it was shown that undervolting zen2 CPU's is a bad idea as it drastically impacts performance.
  9. Will do, give me a minute. Latest version of HWinfo should be accurate? BIOS isn't the latest version, but is the latest version that actually matters: AMD AGESA Combo-AM4 Patch B Later BIOS updates just "Optimize chipset fan curve" and "1. Add auto rule for specific memory module. 2. Improve UAD-2 DUO audio card compatibility." I'm waiting on AGESA 1005 to be released before updating. H115i Extreme's pump is powered by sata power cable, it's plugged in, and I can confirm in corsair IQUE that the pump is spinning at 3000rpm (max speed).
  10. CPU: R5 3600 Motherboard: Asrock x570 Taichi Case: NZXT H440 BIOS version: P3.00 Load Optimized Defaults: Yes Ryzen Maser is installed, all stock settings applied. Fresh install of Windows 10 Enterprise. Drivers installed from Asrock's website for the x570 Taichi. Cooler: Corsair H115i Extreme, with 4 Corsair SP140 fans mounted in push/pull, cooler mounted at the front of the case pulling fresh cool air in. Pump speed set to maximum; all fans set to maximum. Thermal Paste: Cooler Master Mastergel Maker; Application method: Pea size dot in center of cpu Ambient Temperature: 21°C - 22°C All Stress Tests: Prime95 Temperature Logging: HWinfo Additional temperature logging: Ryzen Master (to ensure HWinfo isn't giving false readings; the readings are identical) Results: 88°C maximum, 87°C average, taken 20 minutes after reaching thermal equilibrium. Second test with the only difference being the front panel of the case being removed and the dust filter is removed: Results: 85°C maximum, 83°C average, taken 20 minutes after reaching thermal equilibrium. Third test with stock cooler: Results: 94.5°C maximum, 94°C average, taken 20 minutes after reaching thermal equilibrium. Fourth test with repasted AIO (again): Results: 94.5°C maximum, 93°C average, taken 20 minutes after reaching thermal equilibrium. (I got a slightly worse thermal paste spread this time, resulting in the 4°C~ delta from the original.) This exact cooler in this exact configuration was able to keep my old delidded i7 8700k at 5.1ghz, 1.392vcore, approximately 230w power draw to cpu alone, at 77°C maximum, 75°C average. I used the AM4 bracket included in the box, all standoffs tightened with pliers as tight as I can get them; the 4 screws holding the block/pump to the CPU are wrenched down as tight as I can get them. (No, I don't usually do this, bad idea, but I wanted to ensure mounting pressure is not an issue) How is the R5 3600 running hotter than my old 8700k while drawing 160w less power? (Yes I know I delidded the 8700k, but the R5 3600 is soldered, so there shouldn't be a big difference) 8700k at 5.1ghz: 230w R5 3600 stock: 70w Both the stock cooler and the AIO can't be defective. And I know the AIO isn't defective, it cooled my 8700k fine; dissipating about 230 watts. The weird thing is, the AIO isn't struggling at all (as it shouldn't be with a 70w CPU), the radiator's end tanks are room temperature to the touch, not cool (obv.), but not warm either. In comparison, running furmark on my hybrid 1070 results in the 120mm radiator's end tank being hot to the touch, with hot air pouring off of the radiator. All of this testing has lead me to conclude that the R5 3600 that I have is defective from the factory; the CPU die is incorrectly soldered to the IHS, resulting in the heat being trapped in the IHS, not making it to the cooler. Can anyone here give me a sanity check to ensure I haven't missed anything?
  11. Yea there appears to be an issue with the x570 taichi with the adata sx8200: When put in the lowest m.2 slot (M2_3) speed is 2200MB/s When put in the middle m.2 slot (M2_2) speed is 2600MB/s When put in the top m.2 slot (M2_1) speed is 2900MB/s I don't think it's a driver issue because if it was, the drive wouldn't speed up and slow down depending on which m.2 slot it was placed in. Also tried with a pcie 3.0 x4 to m.2 adapter and still only got 2900MB/s. On my 8700k+Asrock z370 gamimg k6 I got the full 3200MB/s. Tried updating BIOS to P2.00, nah. Tried benching on linux to see if it was a windows issue, no dice. Load optimized defaults in bios, nada. Overclock RAM in case that's important, nope. Disconnected everything but a GPU, boot SSD, and the adata sx8200, still nope. Tried with 1, 2, and 4 sticks of ram, still 2900MB/s in the top slot. Asrock support has been shockingly unhelpful basically just saying "well it works for us so good luck"
  12. Any one have any ideas? Updated to BIOS version P2.00 still no luck. Tried with AS SSD in case CrystalDiskMark was being weird; same results. Only about 2,200MB/s read. Crystal disk info says the SSD is at PCIe gen3x4 which is correct but it shows the NVMe standard as 1.2 instead of 1.3. Maybe a driver issue?
  13. Why would you want your computer to not be fully utilized? If your game is only using 30% of your GPU and 30% of your CPU then there's a bottleneck somewhere and your not getting the full performance out of your computer that would be possible. You want your GPU to be at 100% and CPU to also be pretty close to 100%.
  14. Hmmm... The Adata sx8200 is an NVMe 1.3 drive while crystal disk info shows that it is working at NVMe 1.2. It still says PCIe 3.0 x4 though. Anyone know if this is the issue? And if it is how do I fix it? I assume it's a software issue / driver issue but as far as I can tell AMD doesn't have specific NVMe drivers as they are built into windows 10.
  15. Hmm. Uninstalled the driver and restarted. Also removed it from device manager and then restarted but still only getting 2,400 MB/s read. Any other ideas?