Mavflight09

Fiio E10K usb-c Schiit fulla 2 Fiio K3 These are a little expensive for just a Pro82 but will last pretty much forever and scale with whatever headphones you pair with them up to about the $500~ range. If that's a little too expensive, honestly on board audio will probably be fine but I would personally consider a amp/dac for any headphone.

100% recommend the Takstar Pro 82's Here is a reply I wrote and copy / pasted from another thread: Takstar Pro 82 would be my recommendation; been using them for the last 4 years: Excellent comfort (my main priority) Sound good, (with bass ports closed; low bass is tight, controlled, and punchy without bleeding into mids) detachable cable 3.5mm with 1/4 trs adapter included flight case for transport Excellent adjustability (smallest setting could fit on a toddler, while the largest setting work work for even the biggest heads) Only downside is that the pads aren't replaceable (glued on) and they start to flake quite quickly Lol this looks like the frequency response of the Delta "complementary" earphones

Since you have an SM7B (notoriously hard to drive): I would recommend: Triton Audio FetHead in line preamp with an Behringer UMC22 interface. Probably as cheap as I would go before you start to seriously sacrifice audio quality. The Behringer UMC202HD is a great step up from the UMC22 if you want something a little higher quality. A little higher would be the PreSonus Studio 24c: A staple of small recording studio's and amateur music artists everywhere.

Takstar Pro 82 would be my recommendation; been using them for the last 4 years: Excellent comfort (my main priority) Sound good, (with bass ports closed; low bass is tight, controlled, and punchy without bleeding into mids) detachable cable 3.5mm with 1/4 trs adapter included flight case for transport Excellent adjustability (smallest setting could fit on a toddler, while the largest setting work work for even the biggest heads) Only downside is that the pads aren't replaceable (glued on) and they start to flake quite quickly

So how about this? Buy an amp dac combo for your headphones; plug the speakers directly into the rear of the mobo, and microphone goes USB to mobo? Fiio K3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KR3RF4H Schiit Fulla E https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09G4NTNGM Here's a slightly more budget friendly option: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B098TKMNKG/

Oh, in this case it doesn't really seem like you need an interface. Why do you feel like you need one? I didn't know your mic was a USB mic.

Sorry if this is really generic advice but I'm kinda just throwing things out there: You know most water-blocks are directional right? Make sure you have the In's and Out's correct. It could be very restrictive to force water through a block backwards. You could also have an air bubble in the pump, but that is typically very obvious as it makes a gurgling noise as the pump sucks air. Maybe the pump just died? Check you loop order? Does the pump have a variable speed, either a nob on it, some take a PWM signal to set pump speed. Thought they usually go wide open if they don't recieve a speed signal. Maybe you just turned the nob my accident (if it has one).

How about the Behringer UMC22? $59.00 on Amazon right now. I have the UMC202HD and it's been great. Just plug and play I don't bother with the drivers, windows 10 has compatible drivers out of the box for 24bit/192kHz. Though keep in mind the UMC22 only supports up to 48kHz. Edit: For you TONOR mic; Please use an XLR to XLR cable to plug it into the interface. Most cheap mic's on Amazon (or similar online retailers) come with an XLR to 1/4" TRS cable. Using this included cable prevents the interface from being able to provide phantom power to the microphone. (Little switch to turn it on, on the back side of the interface.) While phantom power is not required for these mics to work, providing it will significantly increase audio quality. More info here: https://stampsound.com/does-phantom-power-work-through-a-1-4-inch-cable/

You could try going to device manager and disabling the integrated graphics adapter. Kind of the nuclear option, but it should work.

For what it's worth I see the same thing. I used a program ( I don't think I can say the name of it, but take a guess ) to download the 2 videos offline in original quality and the 2019 ROG rig reboot does look noticeably better on a 1440p IPS display. The Steam deck video from today has compression artifacts that are easily visible. If I had to guess they used significantly higher compression since they were on the go and wanted to get the video out fast? Just a guess though. I have only checked those 2 videos but I'll go through a few more randomly.

Ah, sorry, I didn't see the link. I found something in the mobo's manual that you could check real quick. It's typically used by extreme overclockers who have trouble starting their computers when the cpu is at -100C or whatever. It won't hurt to enable it and may allow your computer to cold start.

Could you elaborate a bit more on what exactly happens when you do a cold start? By 'the computer does not POST' do you mean the computer powers on and fails POST resulting in the computer turning back off? Or do you mean the computer literally does not turn on at all. As in, the power button may as well not be plugged into the mobo because it doesn't do anything?

I would suggest mounting your old 360mm aio back to the cpu and see what temps are like first. Even if it doesn't fit in the case just lay it outside for a quick test. If temps are fine with the 360mm then you can rule the 280mm aio as being defective. This is a good point but OP said they remounted it twice so it would be kinda hard to get it wrong 3 times + you can check your thermal paste spread from the last mount. I think I'm leaning towards a pump issue.

If it's not in windows explorer, it's not in device manager or disk manager; but it is sometimes still recognized in BIOS, but not in windows; sometimes not at all (not in BIOS or windows).

Computer Type: Custom Build GPU: MSI GTX 1070 Hybrid CPU: Ryzen 5 3600 Motherboard: Asrock x570 Taichi RAM: 4 x 8gb Kingston Hyper X Fury 2133mhz 14-14-14-34 1.2v PSU: EVGA 850w P2 Case: NZXT H440 Operating System & Version: Windows 10 Enterprise 1809 GPU Drivers: 441.87 Chipset Drivers: 2.07.14.327 Background Applications: n/a; Occurs on first boot. Description of Original Problem: My 8tb WD White Label hard drive is occasionally not recognized upon booting the PC. As in, sometimes I start the computer, and the drive shows up in windows explorer, and sometimes I start the computer and it's not there. Troubleshooting: I've tried changing sata power cable, sata data cable, and tested all 8 sata ports on my motherboard. The issue still exists. I have 6 total sata devices plugged in, but the issue happens even when only the 8tb drive is plugged in, and the hard drive isn't the issue; This hard drive was used in my previous Intel build for over a year and never had an issue. It's happened on multiple BIOS versions: P1.10, P2.10, P2.70, P2.80, P3.00 I've tried loading optimized defaults, to see if maybe it was an unstable ram overclock, but the issue still happens even with all stock settings applied. Tried disabling esata support, still happens. Tried reseating many things: CPU, RAM, sata power and sata data cables on both ends, GPU. Anyone got any ideas?