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Iggledude

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About Iggledude

  • Birthday May 22, 1971

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Central NC (USA)
  • Interests
    Family, Tech, Music, Good Times.
  • Occupation
    Retired

System

  • CPU
    Intel Core i7 7700K 4.20GHz -- (OCed to 5.0GHz).
  • Motherboard
    ASUS ROG STRIX Z270E RGB GAMING Motherboard
  • RAM
    G.SKILL TridentZ RGB Series 32GB DDR4 3200MHz
  • GPU
    EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Ti Dual Classified w/ EVGA ACX Cooler
  • Case
    Corsair Graphite Series 780T Full Tower - Black
  • Storage
    Samsung 960 PRO 2TB PCIe NVMe M.2 SSD; Corsair Neutron GTX 240GB SSD; Samsung 840 EVO 250GB SSD; Toshiba 1TB 5400 RPM SATA III 8MB HDD (2.5"); WD 4TB Caviar Black Edition-7200 RPM-64MB Cache External HDD.
  • PSU
    Corsair AX860 Platinum Edition; Fully Modular.
  • Display(s)
    3x (HP 2511x) 25-Inch LED Monitor--Black.
  • Cooling
    (CPU) -- Corsair Hydro Series H115i Extreme Performance Liquid CPU Cooler w/ 4x Noctua SSO2 Bearing NF-A14 iPPC-2000 PWM Fans in Push/Pull Configuration; 5x Corsair ML120 Pro LED, Blue, 120mm Premium Magnetic Levitation Cooling Case Fans; and 1 Corsair ML140 Pro LED, Blue, 140mm Premium Magnetic Levitation Rear Exhaust Fan.
  • Keyboard
    Tt eSPORTS MEKA G1 Illuminated Mechanical Professional Gaming Keyboard (Cherry MX Black).
  • Mouse
    Razer DeathAdder Chroma - Multi-Color Ergonomic RGB Gaming Mouse (2015 Model).
  • Sound
    Integrated Sound -- Razer Kraken Pro Headphones; BOSE Companion 2 Series III Multimedia Speaker System.
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Professional

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Iggledude's Achievements

  1. 1st: Be safe. Unplug the PSU everytime, then: 2nd: Start with all of the hardwire connections. Make sure every cable and wire and plug is connected to the correct cable in, wire in, and/or plugin (and plugged in well at both the PSU source and the Mobo source). Make sure to check the manual and all of the connections are in well.. Ensure all of these are correct via the manual, then try and fire it up. 3rd: Unplug PSU (you'll see a trend starting here). If it still didn't start, as was mentioned earlier... take the CMOS battery out and all ram out. Hit the power button about three times. Wait a half-hour or maybe a little less. Then place the CMOS battery back in. And then install one stick of ram in the correct slot--check manual. Plug in the PSU and fire it up. Make sure that stick of ram is slotted in the right place, very important. 4th: If nothing again, go through all the steps in 3rd step but replace ram stick with other ram stick in same spot. Be safe, PSU unplugged. Once other ram stick is in, plug psu up and try and fire it up. 5th: (Optional) Repeat step three and four with ram sticks in other corresponding correct slot (usually outside one stick slot). Refer to the manual but usually the best way to test for ram failure is to check the manual and start at the first slot. Usually the closer of the two correct slots for one stick ram usage -- closest to the cpu--most are differing colors--like grey and black. Be safe, unplug psu every time>>> A pain in the butt, but safe AND effective. 6th: If there are any beeps or a code you hear or see, it can save you a LOT of time by looking them up in manual or even online via another pc of some sort (laptop maybe). This suggestion prolly should be number one, but I can see you've already covered beeps and codes above through other posts. 7th: With a magnifying glass, or grandpa's glasses (lol), look for any crack(s) or chip(s) on the motherboard---front and back. Make sure your cooler is coming on and running correctly. Make sure the cooler is seated properly. Look for any cracks or chips on the motherboard--they can hide in hard to see places--that's why I say good lighting and magnifying lens is your good friend here. 8th: Be safe. Take it all apart and inspect the cpu and mobo pins so very closely. Good light and magnifying lens. If all looks good, put it all back together slowly, making sure to adhere to the manual at all times. Ensure the CPU is seated correctly, no force, just a nudge and a wiggle, no force needed--that's the Mobo/CPU clamp's job. Also, support from both the mobo maker and cpu maker MAY BE of SOME service to you. Just hush-hush on the delidding part of the story, if ya know what I mean. That's all I got. I hope it helps. I pray all is ok with both the board and CPU. Last thing here: If there is another desktop PC in the home, make sure that power supply in this new PC can crank and run that other machine -- worth a shot if all else fails. Regards, Iggledude
  2. Again, I thank everyone for their assistance. It is so very appreciated. I know the parts and software I need now. However, I still have questions about how to go about the initial setup of this entire system. In other words I would absolutely love for anyone to tell me how to piece the equipment together and in what order (where to put each piece in the chain of devices needed to do what I am trying to accomplish). Any advice on the exact order of each specific part of the assembly (connection by connection) would be greatly appreciated. Again, I do apologize for being somewhat thick-headed concerning this matter. In my defense, this is the first time I have attempted an HTPC, and I want it to be able to record, pause, rewind, fast forward live OTA broadcasts, and have a dependable guide, and possess at least a somewhat decent filing system so as to make heads or tails of what I have recorded and how to make it playback on demand. Thank anyone that responds to this request. And once again, I thank those who have already given tremendous support thus far. Thank you!!!! Regards, Iggledude
  3. Thank you Donut417. Very good explanation. I will use this advice along with other research and make an informed decision asap. Also, if I have any other questions I hope I can get good responses as I have so far. Again, thank you all. Regards, Iggledude
  4. Thank you Donut. I know I seem a little thick-headed about this issue and I do apologize. With that said, going back and reading my questions, seeing the equipment I have, the software I'd like to use, could you (or someone), please step by step explain to me exactly how to setup what I want... as close as possible. And Donut, you are so correct when you say I do not know how PLEX works, even after reading about it a dozen times... lol. I'm a hands on (visual) learner and I thank you for your time and patience. I thank everyone who contributes to my continuing education on this matter. Thank you, Iggledude
  5. By all means jroc96, please do continue the thread. I am still doing a lot of research on the issue and those better informed than I are more than welcome to add to this thread. Thank you for your response. I am buying a Roku Ultimate for starters. I will probably use Plex as my "guide" software. I know now that I can receive free HDTV OTA channels via the Roku which was a great relief. The thing I need help with now and still doing research on that... is where the DVR comes in. I've got the drives 1TB up to 4 TB. I have both external drives and internal drives. I am just at a loss at the moment as to how to hook up some kind of DVR. I looked at this: (https://smile.amazon.com/Tablo-4-Tuner-Digital-Recorder-Streaming/dp/B00MWLZR0I/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1513095490&sr=1-1&keywords=wireless+tv+dvr). as maybe being my DVR, but still not sure how to hook this all up in one room and wirelessly connect all of these pieces to two TVs. I have a NETGEAR Nighthawk AC1900 Dual Band WiFi Gigabit Router (R7000) with open source support. This router handles anything I throw at it, so anyone have any ideas on how to best use all of this equipment? Also I have two Linksys WES610N 4Port Dual Band Entertainment Bridge: (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056VP0KS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1) for both of the TVs I mentioed above, so all of the wireless transmitters and receivers are in place and ready. I just need some advice on how to piece it all together for now. I just built a $5500 to $6000 brand new gaming PC in 2017, so the TV PC will be put off until early-mid 2018. My wife said so!! Saying all that is to say, I have all the parts needed (I think) to get what I want up and running; however, I still need guidance on the best way to piece it all together for it to work as seamlessly as possible. Again, thanks for the response and any advice you may have. I hope this thread does inspire additional commentaries and solid advice on how best to go about getting all this to work together. Regards, Iggledude
  6. Thanks Donut, for your responses and great advice. Kodi is a no go for me due to the programming/coding skills involved. If what I have read is true, Kodi is probably the very best choice for those with the aforementioned skills... of which I have little to none of my own. Hardware and GUI are my strong suits. Some DOS and command prompts are about as far as my programming/coding experience goes. I am going to do more research today and will maybe have more questions later but thank you so much Donut for giving me a solid push off the line. Thanks and have a great day!! Talk with ya later. Again, thanks sooo much.
  7. Thank you Donut. If TV Tuner Cards have become obsolete, I am assuming these Homerun devices and others like them serve the same purpose as the old TV Tuner Cards??? The add on Amazon mentioned a DVR with the Homerun, but I can't seem to find any solid reviews on the DVR aspect of it. Any thoughts on that? And since it says DVR software I am thinking this is cloud based DVR?? What would I need for a in-house DVR to work with the HD Homerun and maybe a tip or two on how to hook it up and what I may need. Also, I am up in the air about whether to use Roku Ultra, Plex (are these the same thing?), or maybe even a Firestick. Any thoughts on these issues. Again, thank you and anyone else that chimes in. All are WELCOME and NEEDED... lol.
  8. I have cut the cable cord, and am now looking to build my own HTPC. I have Netflix, Hulu, Amazon Prime, WWE and CBS All Access as media I use on a really consistent basis. I have a Over the air TV Tuner Box that's about 10 yearsd old hooked to a powered indoor antenna. I get about 25 channels over the air. I need the HTPC for TV shows, sports, news and movies only using the media above. I do not need the HTPC to game even though I am looking to put a graphics card in the build just for the 4K and Display Port out, HDMI out. I also want this setup to include some kind of DVR presence along with a TV Listings Guide presence as well. I want to keep my budget around $500 to $650, if possible. Could someone please give a sample build (pcpartpicker preferably) and please explain how to to get all of these programs (software) and hardware to work together? Thank you so much for any help I can receive. Again, thank you. Regards, Iggledude
  9. Win 10 Pro was a clean install onto a new Samsung 960 Pro 2TB via MS USB3 stick. I bought the whole bells and whistles retail version over my normal purchase of an OEM version this time around. This way I can have some questions answered through MS, if the need arises. And yes, I installed much of the ROG software.
  10. Daughter and I just built new rig. All parts less that three years old--85% new. Parts list below. Problem: Turn on and takes about 30 seconds to go from BOTH black screens to welcome/sign-in page. After logging in, it is all super fast. First black screen shows Republic of Gamers with logo on top and underneath the phrase "16% Overclock"-10 seconds screen time. Second Black Screen shows Republic of Gamers with logo and the circling dots -- 20 to 25 seconds screen time. Rig Hardware Setup w/ Associated Software: Case - Corsair Graphite Series 780T Full Tower Black PC Case. Motherboard - ASUS ROG STRIX Z270E Gaming Board. Processor - Intel 7th Gen Intel Core i7-7700K (OCed to 5.0GHz). CPU Cooler - Corsair Hydro Series H115i Extreme Performance. Switched fans. CPU Cooler Fans - (2) Noctua SSO2 Bearing Fan NF-A14 iPPC-2000 PWM. Thermal Paste - ARCTIC MX-4 Thermal Compound Paste. Rear Case Fan - (1) Corsair ML140 Pro LED, Blue. Front/Bottom Case Fans - (5) Corsair ML120 Pro LED, Blue. Ram - G.SKILL TridentZ RGB Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4 3200MHz. Power Supply - Corsair AX860, Fully Modular, 80+ Platinum Certified. Graphics Card - EVGA GeForce GTX 780Ti Classified 3GB GDDR5 384-Bit. Running “Unofficial” 2nd Bios and OCed nicely. Very Stable. Storage - Local Disk (C): Samsung 960 PRO Series 2TB PCIe NVMe M.2 Internal SSD. – Local Disk (F): Corsair Neutron Series GTX 240GB SATA III Internal SSD. – Local Disk (G): Samsung 840 EVO 250GB SATA III Internal SSD. – Local Disk (H): Toshiba 1TB 5400RPM SATA III 8MB 2.5 Inch. – External Disk (S): WD Black 2TB Performance HDD 7200 RPM SATA III 64MB Cache 3.5 Inch connected via Inateck USB 3.0 to SATA External HDD Lay-Flat Docking Station to USB 3.0 in rear of Case. Internal RGB Lighting – Corsair Lighting Node Pro RGB using Corsair Link. Additional lighting provided by (1) Logisys 12" Cold Cathode Case Lights (Blue-2 Piece). External USB 3.0 Hub - Anker 4-Port USB 3.0 Data Hub. 24W Power Adapter. USB 3.0 Cable from Hub to the rear of the PC into a USB 3.0 connection. Camera/Microphone - Logitech C922x Pro Stream Webcam. Speakers - Bose Companion 2 Series III Multimedia Speakers for PC. Monitors - (3) HP 2511x 25-Inch LED 1920x1080 60Hz Black Monitors. Keyboard - Tt eSPORTS MEKA G1 Illuminated Mechanical Professional Gaming Keyboard Cherry MX Black key switches. Mouse – 2015 Razer DeathAdder Chroma RGB Ergonomic Gaming Mouse. Operating System - Microsoft Windows 10 Pro 64bit | USB Flash Drive. All drivers, settings, programs/applications, MS updates, and bios fully and completely updated. All wires, cables, connections checked and double-checked to ensure proper connection. If software information is needed, please request it and I will be more than happy to provide that information in detail. I thank you for your time and consideration. Regards, Iggledude
  11. What driver are you getting? Where are you getting it? Also include complete name of PC (laptop).
  12. Sure you can stay with the generic driver. If you're not asking much (expecting much) then sure the generic works fine. That's really why it's there I suppose. Glad it helped.
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