BeeyonTroy

I don't have the 2nd monitor yet. I'm thinking of getting a small 16" monitor. These monitors mostly only have VGA/D-sub. I'm leaning towards not buying any adapters so I can save money. If i can get it to work using the onboard VGA then all the better. Thanks anyway

I want to run my main monitor on my GPU via VGA/D-sub and I want to run a second monitor on my onboard graphics still via VGA/D-sub. My motherboard only has VGA/D-sub output. The GPU is a GT 730 with VGA/D-sub, HDMI and DVI. The 2 monitors I'm using only have VGA/D-sub. Is that possible? I checked my BIOS and it seems to support multi-monitor based on this setting. Should I Enable the "iGPU Multi-Monitor" setting in order to achieve this?

All right! Thanks for the help guys

Okay that sounds good. Thank you. So, this is what I'll be doing: 1. Power down PC. 2. Remove current win7 SSD (detach power and SATA cables) 3. Attach another SSD. 4. Power on PC. 5. Install Windows 8.1. 6. Try it for a few days. 7. If not satisfied then remove the win8 SSD. 8. Attach the win7 SSD. 9. Power on PC and like nothing happened. Is that about right?

Hi I have Windows 7 64-bit on my 120gb SSD. I want to try out Windows 8.1 (and possibly upgrade to Windows 10 later on, but I wanna experience 8.1 first). But i want to preserve my Windows 7 installation. I love it. This has been my OS for 7 years now, I've just been cloning it to preserve it. It's been from a 160gb HDD then cloned to a couple 120gb SSD's since. I have another spare 120gb SSD where I want to install Windows 8.1 to. Can I just remove my current Win 7 SSD --- put in the other SSD --- install Windows 8.1 on it (therefore becoming my Windows 8.1 SSD) --- and if I find things are not to my liking, just remove the Windows 8.1 SSD and put back my Win 7 SSD without any problems whatsoever? Will it mess up me BIOS settings or other motherboard related stuff? My motherboard is an Asus P8H61M_LX3_PLUS (1155). It has BIOS updates for Windows 8.1 up to 10 but I don't want to update my BIOS as much as possible. Thanks!

Thanks for the reply. At least number 1 is cleared up. Can you recommend a good software that you have tried and had no problems at all?

In relation to the above post I made, I have decided to go with the Adata SP550 120GB. Thanks for all your feedback. Now I need to some info on making backups. The above stated SSD has a bundled Acronis True Image utility to help with backup but I have some questions. Here is what I need to do: 1. Migrate my 160gb OS drive to this 120gb SSD. - This is possible yes? considering I will be cloning from a bigger to a smaller drive. Total space used on my 160gb is about 80gb. 2. Do weekly backups on a dedicated backup 500gb HDD. - I have no fancy hotswap bay on my case so I'm thinking of just putting the backup drive inside my case unplugged and then just plugging it in when I do the backup. Is this okay? - Will this backup clone my OS drive perfectly? If my SSD fails, can I just unplug the SSD, plug in my backup HDD and boot up with no problems? I had a share of past experiences where the boot manager gets screwed or goes missing after migrating.

The Adata SP550 does use Samsung branded DRAM and a new SM2256 controller and TLC NAND. Supposed to be good components based on reviews I've read so far

Samsung seems to be all over the place. I would like to invest it one but not right now. Their reliability and speed comes with a hefty price. Seeing as though the Sandisk SSD Plus is using the same type of flash as their higher tier product, would that make it more reliable perhaps? But if indeed they are lower binned MLC would that mean that they are more prone to failure or just slower? Adata SP550 uses TLC Quote below is for the Adata SP550 Thoughts? Thanks for the replies so far guys. Really appreciate it

Hmmm.. it seems almost a fair fight with equal votes on SanDisk and A-data. Something of note though, I saw the video of Linus when he went to Yvonne's home country and bought an A-data drive to upgrade her uncle's system. So yeah he was going for the cheapest one I think but perhaps he saw it reliable enough too

Back in 2012 I bought a G.Skill Phoenix III 120GB SATAIII SSD. I was not sure at all at that time if it was a good SSD or not, but what the hell its G.Skill, they make good RAMs and stuff so I went ahead and bought it. Then it died a year after. Local shop only has 1 year warranty. G.skill has a 3 year warranty but that would require me to ship my SSD to Taiwan and didn't have time for it. So ever since then I re-used my trusty Seagate 160gb HDD SATAII, which was my OS drive before the G.Skill ssd crap. My gripe about SSDs is that they give you close to no warning at all before dying. At least HDDs make sounds and SMART warnings. So based on that I'm really finding it hard to trust SSDs no matter the thousand of reviews on various SSD brands. Even though I have read that Samsung and Intel drives are the most reliable ones, I still find it hard to trust SSDs. I do make backups so data loss is not an issue. I just need my system to be ready when I need it anytime because of the nature of my new job. It is also because of this new job that I want to try SSDs again so that everything will be faster. I only need 120gb as I would only use it for my OS. I would definitely buy Samsung or Intel SSDs down the road but right now I'm on a budget so here are my top 2 choices. SanDisk Plus 120gb = $52.9 (product reviews on newegg are nice but it's a new product so really not a good parameter to judge reliability) Adata SP550 120gb = $46.6 (coz it's the cheapest 120gb SSD on our local market) I would like to ask for tips please. I tend not to relly on manufacturer claims as I find end-user experience is always best. Cheers! EDIT: What about warranty? Can you recommend me a brand with good customer support/RMA?

Dear LMG and Zotac, I'm really loving the idea of how Zotac crammed all that hardware inside that sleek little box. An i5, a full sized 960 GPU (not an "M" version), not to mention the storage expansion features, would probably make this a beautiful and fully capable mini gaming rig on-the-go and a portable workstation too. And I'm saying "probably" because I have never tested something like this, so winning this would be like a brand new experience for me. Definitely what I have been looking for as I have been longing to go small form factor and currently working at home where my midtower is taking up so much space on my desk and is quite loud too.

Great! Many thanks! And yeah the diagram you linked has a slightly different layout though. It shows that pin #4 is the PWM whereas there is nothing on #4 on my connector. Cheers to you mate!

Thanks for the reply. So basically I can do this with no problems at all? Cut these and tape them together. As long as they don't mix right?

Hello. I bought a used Alienware liquid cooling (Asetek, similar to the old Corsair H50) to attach to my H61 board (socket 1155) and noticed that the pump uses the proprietary connector by Alienware/Dell. It has 5 pins. I've done my research and it the layout is like this (based on the above picture) >GRND (the one with the word "MX") >12+V (the one with word "13A") >Tach/sensor The rest are useless as I am only wanting to power the pump. As I have read on the other forums, you only need the GRND and 12+V and connect it to the Molex connector coming from the PSU. I have something like this picture here: Except without the white fan header at the end with 3 pins on it. So i was thinking of just cutting the 12v and Ground wire on both the connector for the pump and the Molex and just tape them together with electrical tape. Would that work?