dragonxt
-
Posts
29 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Status Updates
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store Home
Posts posted by dragonxt
-
-
10 minutes ago, Skiiwee29 said:
Go download GPUz and see what BIOS is installed on the card. Its possible the previous owner loaded a modified BIOS, especially if it was used for Mining.
Thank you so much! Here's what I see: http://gpuz.techpowerup.com/21/07/26/cfh.png
-
Hey guys, so I just purchased this used Zotac 2070 off someone locally. It's not the best card but it was all I could get unfortunately. Anyway, I noticed that the fan is not working at full speed. While gaming my fan does speed up, but not enough to adequately cool the card imo. So I downloaded several different utilities like afterburner, and the fan did not show up in any of them. (Came up as n/a). Then I downloaded Zotacs firestorm utility, and that seems to be working! But here's the issue, setting it to 100% fan speed barely spins it any faster. I know this because the card is moderately loud vs typically a blower style card like this would sound really obnoxiously loud. On startup I do hear the fan blow full speed really loudly for a second, so I know it is capable. I've been searching everywhere but can't find a fix. I'm thinking it's something messed up in my bios? My mother board is the Asus Z-370-E.
Please let me know if any more information is needed. Thanks!!
-
Alright, I'm Done. Wanted a second opinion.
The scary part is that Google serves me this site as a sponsored listing
The home address and website layout made me consider it could maybe be some sort of automated drop ship site. Though looking through a lot of the buttons don't work and it looks like all the listings are automatically generated.
Thanks, guys!
Clicking "Tate Place" takes you to the site.
-
They have a great deal on this camera lens that I want. They have some fire deals in general. I noticed that they have a little banner that says "X Sold in last 24 hours" which seems to be fake. Though I've seen this on a lot of sites and it generally doesn't seem to matter.
Can I trust it?
-
5 minutes ago, W-L said:
What oring are they referring to, if you had a bad oring that seals the block your rig would be under water at this point. That area is just a divider between the two sections of the block for inlet and outlet which has no actual seal. Which mode of the monoblock do you have exactly?
That's exactly what I said! There is no O-Ring, just Acrylic and metal.
I sent them another email asking them if they are 100% sure. I have the Monoblock for the z370-e. Still waiting for a response
-
On 2/5/2019 at 9:17 AM, W-L said:
There isn’t a oring so water can weep between the acrylic and the metal block between the two sections however little that may be. As for cleaning it the only way would be to take it out and to try and flush it, if that doesn’t work then you will most likely need to take it apart to clean it out. I would take a close look at the micro fins to see if there is any kind of potential clogging.
According to customer support, I need to replace the o-ring. They acknowledge it is a defect. Water is not supposed to flow there.
-
3 hours ago, W-L said:
Being new rads properly flushing and rinsing them usually is enough to get most of the junk from manufacturing out. After the sys prep did you flush the whole loop a few times over with distilled water, all the sys prep needs to be removed before new fluid is put in.
Yes of course. 72 hours is what primochill advises. After that I replaced distilled water once a week too.
Either way, clearly there's something wrong with the water/there was dirt somewhere. Anyway, the buildup is pretty light. Any products I should use to clear it?
Also, are you sure there's waterflow in that area? Looking even closer, there is a clear acrylic barrier between areas of flow and this center area where there's build up. It looks completely sealed off.
-
3 minutes ago, W-L said:
No, don't put dish soap where did you get that idea, it's just going to foam up and not do any good.
Also did you clean the rads????
That's what they recommended I do as I have run out of sys prep. Also, yes I thoroughly shook the rads before putting them in. However, I have not used Mayhems blitz kit or anything special.
I suppose what I want to know is how should I fix it? Preferably a product I can buy and run in the loop. (Don't want to take it apart).
-
3 minutes ago, W-L said:
That area has flow it's just very insignificant since there is a divider. Did you clean out the rads and properly flush them before assembly hard to say exactly what it is but could be residue for manufacturing.
Also you will want to use a premix or additive soon, running a loop on just distilled water can easily get growth.
Well, I contacted ek about it. Let's see what they say. In the meantime im going to put in some dish soap. Is any kind of dish soap okay? I don't have Dawn.
-
11 minutes ago, W-L said:
You may want to take a zoomed out photo for us to get an idea of what section we are looking at exactly. As for the section with no fluid running through it there is a small amount of bleeding that goes past it since it doesn't have a seal on it.
Looks like potential build up if the loop wasn't flushed and preped, also what additives are you running?
None just distilled water. Though I did run Primo Prep before pouring straight distilled water. I still have to buy additives. But I still don't understand why that's happening in an area with no flow. I have no blockage anywhere else. I've also been swapping the water every week
-
I just put together a brand new water-cooling loop, with parts from EKWB. I'm running distilled water, and after a few weeks, I found this in my water block
The most baffling part to me is that water does not even flow through that part of the waterblock!
-
Alright thanks. FYI Asus mobos are capable of bios updates without a CPU installed
-
So, I tried powering on my PC with a 9900k and a z370 Mobo, but I wasn't getting any error lights or video signal. Tech support is confused and said I should just return it. Ram and gpu works fine.
Is this because I need to update the bios for the new cpu? Or would an error light show up for that problem.
-
17 hours ago, Semper said:
It wouldn't. The only thing that o-ring on that extender is doing is preventing a leak from occurring between whatever it's connecting. An extender such as this is going to be used to connect two objects of your loop together, be it two fittings, two components, or a fitting to a component for some reason.
Your tubing needs some type of barb or compression point that can create a seal around it. If you're using barbs, you'll also secure the tubing down with a clamp (zip ties work as well). if you're using a compression fitting, the collar that you screw down will create the compression point.You tubing is not threaded into anything in any of the conventional liquid cooling methods I know of.
The threads themselves in any part of your loop aren't going to create a seal of any kind, it's the o-ring between two objects that creates the seal.
A use case example of one of the extenders you're talking about would look like this (note, I don't know why you would ever need to do something like this example, I'm just hoping this gives you a better understanding):
three components ((from left-to-right)
a 90° fitting adapter (one male, one female threading)
a rotary extender same concept at the extender, but built slightly different (two male threadings)
A 45° fitting adapter. (one male one female threading)
when broken down into their own parts, look like this:
the extender in the middle creates a seal between the two flat surfaces on the faces of the neighboring components with the red o-ring. The threads serve to hold pressure on the o-ring, they do not create a seal.
To attach a tube to a fitting (in this case, soft tubing using a barb, as I do not have any hardline tubing fittings or tube to provide an example) you're going to use a fitting that has a barb built into it, (or a threaded adapter (such as the 45° fitting adapter above) with a barb attached to it, which would look like this) or a fitting that already has a barb built into it
The tube fits around this barb, which is ever so slightly larger than the inner diameter of the tube, and creates a pressure point at the lip
The tube is then secured down with a clamp (or zip tie) which prevents water pressure from eventually allowing it to walk off or be blown off.
compression fittings work much the same way, they have a barb inside of them, but the clamp is replaced with a collar that threads down around the tube creating that pressure point and resisting the tube walking off. this tube-fitted-barb would then very likely be threaded into a component (let's say a radiator) where the threads once again pull the fitting against the radiator, and the o-ring between them creates the seal.
The structure of a soft tube compression fitting looks like this:Thank you! That was very thorough.
Guess I now have to order some fittings.
-
6 hours ago, Semper said:
Not if you'd like to keep your coolant in your tubing and off other components.
Fittings themselves don't create a seal. The o rings being compressed around the tube do.
I'd strongly suggest you watch some of jayztwocents guides on watercooling, he's got a dozen or more by now. I feel that you're diving into something that's going to be overwhelming for you. Rigid tubing is the more difficult of the two (conventional) plumbing methods, and you don't yet have a grasp on how fittings work.Thank you, though I wouldn't come to the forums without searching every other resource first.
This seems to have an o-ring, hence my confusion. https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-extender-6mm-m-m-black-nickel
Would that not work?
-
13 hours ago, Semper said:
In this case, you're going to be using exclusive rigid tubing "compression" fittings.
Generally, the well made ones use a double O-Ring system, one in contact between the base of the fitting and the end of your tube, and another around the cap.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22418/ex-tub-2513/Bitspower_G_14_Enhanced_Multi-Link_Adapter_-_12mm_OD_Rigid_Tube_-_Carbon_Black_BP-CBEML.html
Again, however, the fittings you will buy will depend on the diameter of your tubing.
14 hours ago, daimonie said:The O-ring side of this fitting can screw into your radiator. On the other side of this 90 fitting you can connect a normal compression fitting. The hard tube will go on that fitting like on any other fitting.
So are you saying I can't attach a tube to the O ring side of that fitting, and use a male to male extender on the other female side of that fitting linked above?
-
4 hours ago, Semper said:
Coming out of a component, the male threads will thread into that (res, rad, pump, block) or other fittings., the female threads will accept a barb, compression fitting, or some other form of male threaded connector allowing you to connect your tubing together, which depends on the type of tubing that youre using; hardline, soft, and inner/outer diameter.
I'm doing hard. If you click on the link I don't see how I can use that fitting to connect a rad and tube...
-
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-angled-90-g1-4-nickel
Does that attach to a tube directly? if so then do I need a Male-Male adapter to connect the other side of the fitting to a pump?
-
The title says it all. There is no monoblock for Z390 MOBOs from ek yet, and they have a sale going right now.
What am I missing buying a Z370 board over a Z390 board? I plan on getting a 9th gen processor.
-
On 2/23/2015 at 11:47 AM, 4b33r said:
Hello,
Greetings,
There are only around 5 indians on the forum and help from them would be highly appreciated.I want to buy watercooling parts in India and don't want to get it shipped internationally as that would cost quite a lot.I checked on every site I could think of but still no luck.I tried some local PC markets but they said in India you would have to mod a car radiator to watercool your PC and they cost around 400 USD.Is there any way I could get parts in India?
Thank you.Try this, you may have to make a few compromises, but it's much cheaper. https://www.ekwb.com/shop/kits/hard-tubing-series
Their soft tubing kits are even cheaper, and Aluminium fluid gaming also has graphics card support.
-
8 hours ago, wpowell13 said:
Hey there,
Getting ready to rebuild my current PC in the Enthoo Evolv X, with the addition of a custom water loop. I have gathered most of the parts already, just need some fittings and a bending kit. What is the best value kit for beginners? I know the Alpha Cool professional kit is hands down the best but that is also very pricey.
Thoughts?
All you need is a saw, some silicone tubes, and sandpaper.
To do perfect 90-degree bends, I find a corner of two joining walls/panels in furniture and use that.
(Any other angle looks good freehand)
-
1 minute ago, W-L said:
Define more dangerous, both are watercooling fluids but as for documentation of materials and what is used Mayhems has more detail and has a longer history of their products. Between the use of Pastel Extremem or Vue, it depends what you have in your loop if you have any PETG you do not want to use Pastel extreme was it's ethylene glycol based. Something like regular Pastel from Mayhems will be glycerol based and isn't a problem with PETG.
I'm leaning towards Primochill TRUE Opaque, in an acrylic loop with everything else from EK. I suppose all fluids have their dangers and as long as you follow Manufacturer warnings that's the best I can do?
-
I'm seeing a lot of conflicting reports/news about Mayhems Pastel Coolant and Primochills'
I HAVE to have opaque fluid in my first loop, so Mayhems pastel extreme a horrible idea? Or should I use a primochill product? Vue?
Why does JayzTwoCents not use Mayhems anymore but this forum seems to like Mayhems more than Primochill?
-
9 minutes ago, For Science! said:
Fans are a bit hard to gauge from the spec sheet along since there tends to be a lot of BS. In particular its quite difficult to see how much static pressure optimized these fans are. All I can tend from the spec sheet when compared to a high end fan such as an 120 mm Noctua fan:
- The fan is specified to be twice as loud when moving the same amount of air
- Or alternatively at the same noise level, move less than half the amount of air as Noctua
- The Max fan speed is gets you about the performance of the slowest 120 mm Noctua fan
Will this be a problem? depends on your opinion. I guess it will be maxed out in rpm to get any decent airflow and therefore decently loud. You'll always get some airflow, but I doubt these are static pressure optimized. On a side note, the LED controller seems to be a bit crap based on some of the reviews, so I would be wary of that too.
Thanks for taking a look.
Assuming I use Noctua Fans, is a 40mm 360 Rad enough to cool a GPU, MOBO, and CPU? (With some light overclocking).
Also, what are the differences between all the GPUs I mentioned in the original post?
.JPG.b2c5206963d55be0409c76cdf0911c9f.JPG)
Trouble with the used Zotac 2070 I just purchased :(((
in Graphics Cards
Posted
Cool I'll try that now! Is there possibly some settings in my motherboard bios I should checkout? I am fairly sure this is not a mining card but I'll definitely flash this newer bios.