SnowCells

The issue: My computer is unable to properly connect to bluetooth devices. Whenever I attempt to pair any sort of bluetooth device, it will show up on the list of detectable devices like it is supposed to, and from first glance the pairing process seems to work. Sometimes it even says that it has connected to the device. However, the device will not truly be connected, and in the case of my wireless headphones or speakers, no audio is being sent through. The devices will show up under bluetooth devices in settings (Audio specifically), and will say it is "paired", but trying to click the "connect" button when selecting it results in an error underneath saying something like "That didn’t work. Please make sure your bluetooth device is still discoverable, then try again." They don’t show up in the sound control panel either. (I'm trying to connect my Sennheiser momentum 4 headphones, as well as my Bose SoundTouch 10 speaker.) One thing I would like to add is that when I originally built my PC in 2018, it was using completely different parts than what is inside it now. Since every part has been either upgraded or replaced, its leading me to believe that its a software issue, though I am still skeptical. What I do know: The problem has something to do with my pc, and is not the fault of the devices I am trying to connect (they can still connect to other things like my GalaxyS21 or my laptop, and function perfectly). I initially thought my motherboard was faulty, but after swapping with a new one (original was an ROG Z370-i, new is an ROG Z390-i), the issue still remains. I have tried external usb bluetooth adapters (usb 2.0 and 3.x), but they do not solve the issue (originally I tested it with the integrated bluetooth device disabled, but the issue still remains with it on). Troubleshooting steps that I have done so far that have not worked: turn bluetooth on/off turn pc on/off check for any updates (update if available) uninstalled/reinstalled the bluetooth drivers run windows bluetooth troubleshooter - under "problems found", it states "Check Bluetooth radio status - Fixed". under "View detailed information", all it says it did was check to see if it was turned on (it already was), confirms that it was on, and said that there were no capability issues present, and that my pc didn't need to be restarted. went into services.msc, and changed the "startup type" from manual to automatic for all of the services labeled bluetooth checked if bluetooth was disabled in bios (it was not) bios reset, and reinstall Windows reinstall, and reset PC Parts: Core i5 8400, eventually upgraded to a 9600k ASUS ROG Strix Z370-I, upgraded to a Z390-I GTX 1060 3Gb, upgrading to a GTX 1080 (EVGA Hybrid motherboard, but I had to replace the heatsink with a FTW 3 air cooled one) Please, any and all help is appreciated. If there is any info I may have possibly left out that could be of use, please let me know and I will answer when I am available.

To put it short(ish), I am planning on remoting into my PC at home when I go on vacation using moonlight and my laptop. I originally was planning on using wake on lan over the internet to power it on, but I could only get it to work when I was on the same network as my PC. I now have a way to turn my pc on/off using a Wemo smart plug. I have my PC set to turn on when it it detects power from the wall (Wemo switch turning on and off). This brings in the main issue. When my PC turns off (completely, losing power from the wall), I cannot go online until my PC is unlocked and passed the lock screen. When I turn my PC off normally (keeping power from the wall), it connects to my network after a few seconds, even before it is unlocked. I have messed with my network card (Built in one on my z370 I motherboard), but I don't know if any of that would be the issue. I can't find anything in the bios to help me with this either. I need my PC to be connected to my network when in the lock screen to be able to remote into it. Does anyone know of this issue and have any solutions? (I am using ethernet, and it is labeled in device manager as "Intel(R) ethernet connection (2) i219-v #2")

As the title suggests, I am using a dual monitor setup. My graphics card recently kicked the bucket, so I am stuck with onboard graphics. One issue I've noticed is that when I power off my secondary monitor (which has stuff like Spotify, discord, etc), all those windows move onto the primary monitor. This never happened when I was using my discrete gpu. Anyone know why? It is a 9600k for anyone wondering. One monitor uses DisplayPort, and one uses HDMI.

Where is that setting?

For the past few weeks, I have been configuring WOL, and I have one main issue. When my PC is in sleep/hibernate/shutdown for a certain amount of time, WOL will not work. If it is off for like 30s, then WOL will work, and PC will turn on like normal. But if it is left off overnight, WOL will not work in the morning (I even found that when I put my PC into sleep for ~20 mins, WOL will still not work). NIC has latest driver. In device manager, my Intel(R) Ethernet Connection (2) I219-V #2 has these settings configures: Energy Efficient Ethernet=OFF Ultra Low Power Mode=OFF Wake on Magic Packet=ON Wake on Pattern Match=ON All 3 settings in the Power Management tab are on as well In Power Options, Fast startup is disabled In services.msc, TCP/IP NetBios Helper, startup type is set to automatic In ASUS (Z370I) bios: Fast startup is disabled In Advanced/APM Configuration/Power On By PCI-E/PCI is enabled Does anyone know what could be happening? It feels like my MOBO's internal network card is powering off after 15-20 minutes. Is there a setting for that?

I have had this problem for about a year now. My PC will not connect to my switch controller via Bluetooth (I follow the steps about holding the sync button and all that, and even tried it on steam, but nothing). This wouldn't be an issue, but it also does not connect via wired connection (With the included USB-A to USB-C cable that came with the controller). The controller is charged, and works perfectly fine on my switch. I have removed the device from my Bluetooth menu, and tried pairing it again, and it would not detect the controller. Strangely, when I plug it into my computer, it makes the windows sound, and the controller starts charging, but still does not detect, and the device shows up as a controller on my Bluetooth menu. However, there is no option to "Connect". I am really stumped as to what is going on, does anyone have any advice?

So the summery of it is; No one can join my minecraft server off of my ip address, including myself. I can, however, connect locally using my ipv4 address. I have tried everything: Re-Port forwarded (I have an xfinity router) multiple times, restarted server, restarted router, gone into control panel to allow the server through firewall (like what this video does https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nn2BJ9jLYNs ), you name it. I am completely lost, does anyone have any idea what might be going on? Any and all help is very much appreciated.

Yep that's it, thank you!

*Not sure if im on the right section to post this* (Image isnt of my 3ds) This connector has its hinge snapped off, and I am unsure if this is an important connector or not. (3ds doestn power on)

So I recently bought a long HDMI cable to connect to my TV across the room(30hz), while still connected to my main monitor (144hz). I have it set up so that they are being duplicated. I knew that the refresh rate difference would be somewhat of an issue, but I have it mostly figured out. In games, my refresh rate is 144hz on my monitor, and 30hz on the TV, as to be expected. However, when I am on the desktop, dragging files and moving tabs are at 30hz, while the mouse moves at 144hz. I have restarted my PC, and am looking for a solution right now, but some guidance would be useful if there is a fix to this.

{Just want to clear some suspicion; 1) My switch is not homebrewed at the moment, and I have not gotten banned from it. 2) I am by no means an online cheater or hacker 3) I only plan to emulate older games on it (like N64, S/NES, or GBA games) 4) When I say "hacked", I mean homebrewing your switch. Sorry for any confusion} Are you guys saying that you will get banned if you are using homebrewed software (Like an emulator) while connected to internet, or are you saying that Nintendo will detect if you even have homebrewed software, and then ban you?

I obviously understand how people can get banned off of a hacked switch if they are hacking in an online game like Splatoon 2 or Smash, but I have also heard that people have gotten banned from just playing on a hacked switch (Like emulating old games). How does this happen? Do they get reported by the people they know or something?

The point of mounting it on the wall is so that wont have to move my setup, and all of its cables, over to the TV. Wireless HDMI wont be an option, too much latency

I am planning on buying a 15ft-20ft HDMI cable for my PC to run to my TV across the room for when I have friends over. I know that cable clips/ties exist, but what would be best for drywall? Running it through the wall would be impossible with how the door frame was made. Any and all help is appreciated.

Thank you all for the responses! It seems this will be more difficult than I first imagined, so I might be forced to do something else.