shinegull

i only have 2 m.2 slots afaik. are there any other good options for 4tb to 8 tb drives? I did seem to have some trouble finding 8tb m.2 ssd (which is actually not that suprising considering the cost....) but i want to reduce the amount of times i need to dump my files into my NAS as well.

I'm looking to upgrade my drives and thinking of going for a dual m.2 setup. I was originally thinking a 2Tb 980 Pro as main with a sabrent 8 tb as secondary. However, I've also heard a lot about how companies are changing small controllers or parts and making either not last as long or not running as fast. I dont know much about that. If it makes a difference. my main drive slot has 1 motherboard cooler and secondary does not, though I did get a m.2 passive cooler for it. Looking for more options and recommendations please I do have pcie 4.0 on my motherboard. for the main drive speed is priority. for second drive. storage and reliability comes before speed, though id still like it to be fast

I have a G14 from 2020. I've noticed that the wifi does not reconnect on its own. This could be home wifi, public wifi, any wifi network. The laptop could be waking from sleep, or on startup. I can connect it manually, and there would be no problems in connection, I dont get any loss of signal. once its connected, it will stay connected. I do not notice it cutting out at anytime once its connected. The only issue is that it does not reconnect on its own. Laptop would start up or wake up with wifi active, and able to search for devices. but it will not connect on its own. Sorry, just want to cut down on those that say, "check if the wifi card is on or not, etc." The steps I have tried are as follows. 1. I have deactivated, then reactivated, manually connected. then restart. No change 2. Deactivate. Restart. Activate. Restart. No change. 3. Clicking the check box for reconnect automatically, to unchecked. checking it again. restart. no change 4. forgetting all previously connected wifi. reconnect. restart. no change 5. forget all wifi. restart. connect. restart. no change 6. updated all drivers, no change 7. physically undoing cables, then reconnect cables. no change short of formatting, I have done everything I could think of. Any suggestions?

I have a soundbar with 3 input options, aux, toslink, and hdmi. I would like to connect it to my PC. Which for me would mean either through motherboard or gpu. Gpu has a hdmi port Motherboard seems to have all 3. Which way can I set it up so that audio is set up properly? Currently I have an aux cable connect, but it's a bit short. So looking into replacing. If it's hdmi, which port do I plug it into? PC is tuf 3080. Mobo is b550m mortar wifi. Cpu is 5950x Soundbar is from Samsung.

k. many thanks for help

do you have a recommendation for motherboard as well by any chance? im trying to look for an itx where i can bifurcate the pcie slot if possible. matx also works.

I actually ended getting a 3080 since it was about 250 less compared to the 6800xt. had to get a 5950x with it, but since i was originally planning on getting a 5900x anyway, not much of a difference?

Thats good to know. At least the odds of me having problems with it should be pretty low then

At this point and for the foreseeable future, all i want the gpu to be able to do is game. That's literally all I need it to do. I guess stability sounds like it would be a concern, but really all I need it to do is gaming and it able to run whatever game i plan on playing for the next 2 to 5 couple years with decent to good fps and graphics. I guess I'll go for whichever is avaiable then, likely 6800 XT then. Just hoping, I'll be able to get one at less than 1300 rather than the 1500 I'm seeing. On that note, why does it seem like the 6800 XT is at least 100 more expensive than the 3080?

I dont do a lot of overclocking. and I've never really used raytracing (to my knowledge). Currently I'm using a 2060 on a laptop, a G14 to be exact. What exactly would i use compute and rasterization for?

It's been a while since the gpu shortage. and it seems like its getting to the point where I am actually able to get a gpu (limited selection as it may be) at any given moment. But I'm a little undecided on whether I should get a 3080 or 3070 or 6800xt. The monitor I am using is a G9. I am comfortable it runs at 60 to 120 hz. I play mostly AC Valhalla currently, but also play other AAA games. I dont expect to run at max settings, but I would like it to run at a minimum of med at least. Ideally though, I would like to run at high to ultra. I'll also be watercooling it if it makes a difference. Which gpu would you recommend?

Posting at night in Vancouver. To anyone looking for GPU, the 6700 xt is available now at Memory Express for $999.99. They have 9 in stock in Vancouver store at time of this posting. Gigabyte 6700 XT If you looking to get now, here you go, otherwise it bodes well, that even ME has it in stock as that would likely mean stock is starting to catch up.

so i've been playing around with printing different things, and i wanted to try to print something that had quite a bit of ooverhang. it worked well, until i needed to remove the support pieces. I'm just using the standard print with support on cura button. I noticed that cura had an option of putting the model sort of underneath the plate by make the z in a negative value. when i print with support pieces, while removing the support was a bit difficult, it wasnt impossible. it was just the end result was a little less than prefect. so I would end up with top side being pretty nice and the bottom side looking pretty rough. my question is, if i have say a 22mm tall object, and then set the model location height as z -11, would the printed object on ender 3 v2 just print the top half? meaning whatever is at z 0 mm to z 11mm ? Also, if i want to change the quality on cura, i.e increasing it, can i still use the same .4 nozzle on printer?

yea, i was having a hard time getting larger prints before but the spring upgrade is quite possibly the best thing i could get. the bltouch is probably the worst upgrade for me, im going to see if i can return it. the gluestick also helped.

I' sorry, I gave up on the bltouch. it got worse as time went on. the more i tried to make it better the less it printed. i went back to only manually leveling it with the paper, and kept the stronger spring and gluestick. just started a print, and already it looks better.

i have always manually leveled first, then did the z offset. for me the priority is the z offset that always seem to require finetuning

I ahve an Ender 3 V2, with upgrade springs and BLTouch, the only changes I've made to gcode is in the printer settings and added a couple lines that says heat up print nozzle and bed, since I had some trouble with it heating up automatically on print start. I've also, as per the instructions from the bltouch, removed the z axis limiter, ( i'm starting to get a feeling that, thats a bad thing) I have what I think are 2 problems. The first one is filament feeding. Print can take hrs for me to finish. so sometimes I would like to start it before I leave for work and when I come back it would be done. except 1 of 2 things will happen if i do that. the first possiblity is that, the filament starts to become tight-ish. meaning it goes through a tight bend. the filament reel sits at the top on the left side of the print, how can i make it so that the reel will move enough so that print continues smoothly? it doenst quite kink up, but the bend affects it just enough that it seems like its having trouble pulling the filament in, causing the print to think its printing, and will then print on air. the second possiblity is that it just kinks up and causes the filament to make a corner. which is basically the first possiblity except that now its like i pinched the filament. The second problem I'm having is with the bltouch and the z-offset. the printer and bltouch is supposed to do this thing, where the needle come out, hits the bed and the nozzle goes back up/ it does it again, and then, it goes through the normal printing procedure. nozzle moves to the left of the bed, prints 2 lines along the y-axis, then prints the object. it seems to do that every print, which is fine. it helps gets rid of a bit of the filament that gets pushed out while nozzle is heating up. But sometimes, its like the bltouch just goes haywire. and gets deactivated. so now the nozzle just slams into the bed. as a result, its kinda bad for the bed and the x-axis gets slanted. my bed leveling gets completely thrown out of whack, and z-offset as well. My z-offset for some reason needs to be set as a negative. and it seems to require adjustment over time, it started as -3.74, then every couple of prints, it requires an adjustment. not its down to around somewhere -3.4 to -3.6. and the only way i know that i need to adjust it is if all of a sudden, the nozzle starts scratching at the bed on the first layer. the printer is very nice, and prints beautifully when everything is good. but one wrong thing, and everything sucks. I expected to need to relevel this maybe every 10 prints, but its starting to seem like, i need to recheck it on every print or 2 instead. i thought 3d printing certain things was supposed to make it easier for me to get certain items, not harder.

Im not sure if its the same problem, or if its 2 seperate problems, but I think its a filament feed problem. I started a print before i went to work, and noticed similar shredding. I should also mention, that i got new springs, bltouch and a gluestick. never using hairspray on this again! So when i got back to my printer, i noticed a similar shredding feel and look on my incomplete print. and noticed that my filament was kinked. I did notice previously that my filament reel to extruder was starting to get a bit tight, but it seemed to be pulling anyway so left it alone. So, I am now wondering how do i keep the filament reel moving while printing? without having to check every 20 minutes on the print.

Just an update, temp settings seem to hold. thanks once again!

i guess ill go play with the settings a bit. fortunately, i only need it to come out decent once.

I did the material temp part, and it seems to have worked. Thank you!!!! I will have to do a bit more testing to see if it succeeds completely, but for now it seems to heat up on its own. I dont have time yet for a full print until a couple days later, but here's hoping all goes well

got it. the case frame will be on wooden feet but the whole thing sits on carpet. carpet should probably help with that. I've already factored in some extra space at the bottom of the frame to account for additional airflow

how do i do that?

I assumed as much for the strength and durabilty wise, i guess ill scrounge up some plywood. would acoustic foam help with sound? or just any sound dampening material? and Im 3D printing the drive caddies out of PLA, would that actually absorb the vibration enough or do i need to add some other things to help

don't know why any of that, thats just what shows up when I clicked on the settings of the printer in cura. The g28g29 were part of the instructions that can with the bltouch