TastyGuava

Hey guys, recently I've been noticing a LOT of micro stutter or just insane stutter in general. I've always had a bit of issues when it came to uneven and odd performance but in recent times it's been a lot better however micro stutter is super noticeable, especially in Fortnite, Dead by Daylight, Texas Chainsaw Massacre, and Minecraft (Java). The worst offender is Minecraft where I'll be running completely fine at 800-1600FPS+ and then it'll just suddenly drop to fricken 5-0 and take a good upwards of 10-15 seconds to recover itself, in other games it's definitely noticeable but not to that degree, in Dead by Daylight it'll go from 110-120 down to 80-90 when nothing is really happening on screen?

Windows 11 Home
Gigabyte B450 AORUS PRO WIFI (Update F63c)
AMD Ryzen 7 3700X (Manual Overclock thru Ryzen Master: 4.2GHz @ 1.30625 Volt)
XFX AMD Radeon RX 6950 XT (Manual Overclock thru Adrenaline: Min 500MHz, Max 2800MHz, 1100mV, VRAM 2300MHz, Power Limit 20%)
Corsair LPX 4x8GB 32GB 2993MT/s (Manual Overclock thru MOBO: 3200MT/s @ 1.3 Volt)
Drive(s): 1x Samsung EVO 860 500GB (boot), 1x WD Blue 1TB 7200RPM (storage), 1x Seagate BarraCuda 2TB 7200RPM (game drive), 1x Sabrent Rocket Q 1TB NVMe PCIe M.2 Gen 3 (game drive)
EVGA SuperNOVA 1000GT
 
Monitor(s): PG27UQ 27" 4K 144Hz, LG 27GN750-B 27" 1080p 240Hz
 
I've always had seemingly odd performance issues since I first built this PC with a 2x8GB 16GB 2666MT/s RAM kit, RTX 2060, and an R5 2600X but it's just so odd to me to be experiencing micro stutters and overall system performance issues now? I'd say I have a pretty good PC outside of maybe a better RAM kit which I was planning to upgrade to a 2x32GB 64GB 3600MT/s kit and doing a fresh install of Windows when I eventually replace all my drives out for M.2 drives.
 
I just don't know what to do and am very lost since I've tried every tutorial I've seen online and it's just making me not want to touch games as much. I also have tried playing with Default settings for my CPU and GPU, and my memory is actually running at a slower overclock in comparison to 3533MT/s at one point and for most of it's life at 3400MT/s. The GPU and PSU are relatively new being bought in August and December.

I feel so stupid. I thought I had uninstalled OneDrive a VERY long time ago but apparently, I had it installed. Thank you very much. Haven't really needed it as of recently and it annoying to see an old-school account when the folder didn't work anymore. Thanks for the help!

oh i mean i use spotify for almost everything, i logged like 310,000 minutes last year on it but for local files i always prefer wmp

I personally HATE every windows design cues used after windows 7. WMP12 is still my go to local audio player.

Hello all,
Thought i should get in early and create a central hub for all us Keyboard enthusiasts to congregate.
For those who don't know what a mechanical keyboard is, here is a quick, very brief outline.
 
On a regular rubber dome keyboard, ones you generally find in Schools, work places etc, under each key is rubber dome. When pressed, this rubber dome is pressed down, making contact with the underlying membrane, transferring the electrical impulse through the circuitry and thus telling the computer what button has been pressed.
A mechanical keyboard, on the otherhand, doesn't have such a set up. Instead, underneath each key is an individual switch. When pressed, this switch is forced down, connecting the contact and transferring electrical impulse. The advantages of using a mechanical switch are quite strong, firstly it provides a much more tactile and wholesome feedback, good for telling the user when they have actuated the key. This allows the user, when they have got used to it, to type at a much faster rate as they know the feeling of when they have typed a letter, and thus can increase their word count. Also, mechanical keyboards allow for NKRO, or N-key roll over. Basically this means that the user can press down as many keys as they like, the computer will register all the key strokes. With a membrane board, there is a limit.
For a much more in depth talk, check out Linus' video on Mechanical keyboards.
There are many, many switch variants out there. However the ones you are most likely to come across are: Cherry MX switches. These come in a variety of names, denoted by their colour. Each switch feels slightly different, and provides the user with different reasons to use a switch.

Cherry MX Blues: Tactile, clicky. - Good for typing, not so much gaming.
Cherry MX Browns: Tactile, non-clicky. - Good gaming and typing due to their quietness, but still maintaining the tactile feedback (you can feel a bump when you press the key)
Cherry MX Reds: Linear, non-clicky - Good for gaming, similar to Membrane in linear motion; no bump as it's not tactile.
Cherry MX Blacks : Linear, non-clicky. - Similar to MX Reds, slightly heavier

There are many other variants of the Cherry MX line up, however these are the main constituents which filtrate into the mainstream market.

Simply post what Keyboard you're running, what switch type, TKL or not, and any other mods you've done to it.
Here is my Filco Majestouch 2 TKL:

 
 
Also, checkout the thread Introduction to Mechanical Keyboard by @Eschew