unknownfactor

I have already diagnosed the problem, but want help/advice on how to move forwards. The past two months I have been getting BSOD's while playing games or doing GPU intensive tasks. These BSOD's reliably occur within about 20 minutes of the activity starting, and do not at all occur outside of GPU intensive tasks. These BSOD's do not leave a dump file, the BSOD immediately skips past the 0% to a reboot. I have determined that if I manually trigger a BSOD, a dump file is created without issue. I have determined that, when I remove my GPU riser, the problem stops happening. I have the PCI-E slot configured via my bios to run in Gen 3 mode. I have not always had this issue- however I do not know exactly when it started happening because I don't always play games that stress the GPU (No issue with League of Legends, but Mass Effect 1 (legendary) does reliably crash). I do know that when Cyberpunk came out, I was able to play without issue. No hardware changes have occured between then and now. But software/drivers have been maintained/updated. Now the solution of "just remove the riser" is logically simple, and it might be what I go with. But I would like some input. This is because I have a rather good looking system with a hardloop that I spent a lot of money on, set up for the riser, and would have to change it/make additional purchases to make it compatible with 'no riser' (I currently have a soft tube bulging out the side of the case). On the other hand, if I do go with a riser again, I am not a great fan of being screwed if I ever need to flash my bios (due to PCI-E slot config going back to Gen 3). OS - Windows 10 Enterprise x64 ? What OS was originaly installed on the system? Windows 10 x64 Is the OS an OEM version: MSDN License Age of system (hardware): ~2 year, GPU & Watercooling ~6 months Age of OS installation - have you re-installed the OS?: < 1 year, not since this problem started CPU model: AMD Ryzen 9 3900X Video Card model: Zotac Gaming GeForce RTX 3090 Trinity MotherBoard - Asus ROG Strix X570-E Gaming Power Supply - brand & wattage: Corsair HX850 V2 System Manufacturer: Not applicable Exact model number: Not applicable Laptop or Desktop: Desktop

Actually to my knowledge you can't really bend these without losing the chrome. They're sold prebent and are (from my understanding) bent before the chrome layer is added.

This build reuses a bunch of parts from my previous which had Dual AIO. This is my first custom-loop with hard-line tubing and no distro-block; I definitely fucked up quite a lot in the process. Spec list: CPU: AMD Ryzer 9 3900X GPU: Zotac Gaming GeForce RTX 3090 Trinity Motherboard: Asus ROX Strix X570-E Gaming Memory: 2x16GB G.Skill Trident Z Neo (3600Mhz, C16) SSD: Corsair MP600 Force Series (1TB) HDD: WD Black 6TB, 7200RPM Case: Lian Li O11-XL PSU: Corsair HX Platinum 850Watt 80+ Platinum Monitor: C49RG90 49" 5120x1440 120 Hz Keyboard: Corsour K70 RGB MK.2 (Cherry Brown) Mouse: Logitech G900 Chaos Spectrum (Wireless-ish, shitty battery life) CPU Block: EK-Quantum Velocity (D-RGB, Nickel + Plexi) GPU Block: EK-Quantum Vector Trinity (3080/3090, D-RGB, Nickel + Plexi) (With backplate) Pump/Res: EK-Quantum Kinetic TBE-300 D5 PWN D-RGB Acetal Radiator: 2x EK-CoolStream PE360 Fittings: AlphaCool (Nickel) Tubing: AlphaCool HardTube (Brass with chrome) Some build-log: Before I started building, I had tested the 3090 and memory in my old system and everything worked fine. So I started the new build, did all of the tube-runs... Of course, with the GPU in the vertical mount bracket... On first boot, obviously it did not work due to the PCI-E Gen 3 riser. I managed to leave the 3090 in the riser (and thus in the hard-line loop), whilst unplugging the riser and plugging in a different riser behind it- this was a pain in the ass because of all the hard-line tubing getting in the way of my hands. With my old 2080 Ti plugged in I was able to get into the Bios, which had no option for setting the PCI-E generation. I decided to try update my bios and was happy to find the updated version did have the option. After setting the top slot to use PCI-E Gen 3, I removed the 2080 Ti+Riser, and plugged the 3090's riser back in- at which point disaster hit. My clumpsy hands hit the tube going into the CPU a bit too hard- or at least one too many times- and (a relatively small amount of) water spilled out. I pulled the power plug, did what I could with papertowels (but found that almost nothing seemed wet at all), and called it a night- leaving what residual water might be left to dry fpr 24 hours. Afterwards, I turned it on, got into windows, and visual artifacts started to happen; I immediately turned the PC off, but afterwards it would not turn back on again. I tried the system with my 2080 (+ riser), it worked. I took my 3090 out of the loop (connected a soft-tube between the radiator and CPU), removed the riser and tried the 3090 without the riser; almost immediately resulting in a post-code (62) and the screen doing nothing. I tried a few more things but could not get it back to work and was pretty devastated (this was on christmas day). I plugged the old 2080 Ti back in and just played Cyberpunk for the rest of the day. The next day I took the radiator and backplate off from the 3090, wanted to see if I could find any signs of either water or anything burnt or alike. I saw nothing, no wetness, no dampness, no signs of any burns or short circuits. I figured it was dead, but decided to just try it one last time... And it worked (or at least, I got a post). At this point I did not have any water running through it, so I turned it off immediately and had no idea if it was stable. I had already gotten into windows before immediately after the water-spill, so I wasnt completely reassured. Anyway, I reconnected it back into the original loop (did not have enough fittings for soft-tubing to quickly test things that way), managed to get back into windows and after having no problems in windows for about half an hour, played cyberpunk for a few hours to make sure it stayed stable (which it did). At this point I had to go back to finish up some more cables in the case (including the front-panel cables, of which only the power switch was connected- and water-temperature sensor. Both rather inaccessible- so I drained the loop first, but was/am still quite cautious about touching the tubes. ------ Anyway; TLDR: 3090 pulled a Lazarus on me. Was dead, but now he (she?) lives. I am super pleased with how everything looks. I know the tube-runs arent perfectly straight. Unfortunate, but it's my first custom loop, let alone hard-line. So I'm kind of okay with that. I also know the RGB on my GPU block isn't working. It is plugged in, but apparently broken (and never worked before either). Other stuff plugged into the same ARGB header works fine. I do not want to go through the trouble of having it replaced and replacing the block, dealing with the opening up the loop for replacement etc. Yes, some of the cable management could definitely be nicer. Yes, I custom modeled and 3D printed that bracket/mount for the pump-res combo.

Why not compare it to Something like an NHD15 that we actually already have hanging on our motherboard? That's 1.3KG. 1.6KG is definitely heavy, and you'll definitely want to be careful with moving your PC about- but should be alright I think.

A little bit before the launch of the new AMD Ryzen 3 CPU's I posted a thread asking for input on what I planned to buy. I watched some reviews on 7/7 and then ordered the whole thing the day after. It took some time due to 3900X availability, but I've had everything now for about two weeks. PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/x6N4XP CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 3900X 3.8 GHz 12-Core Processor ($499.00 @ B&H) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master MasterLiquid ML360R RGB 66.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($129.99 @ Newegg) Motherboard: Asus ROG Strix X570-E Gaming ATX AM4 Motherboard ($324.49 @ OutletPC) Memory: Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3466 Memory ($229.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Corsair MP600 Force Series Gen4 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($249.99 @ Best Buy) Storage: Western Digital Black 6 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($197.89 @ OutletPC) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11 GB AORUS XTREME WATERFORCE Video Card ($1349.99 @ Amazon) Case: Lian-Li PC-O11 Dynamic ATX Full Tower Case ($119.99 @ Walmart) Power Supply: Corsair HX Platinum 850 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($154.89 @ OutletPC) Monitor: Samsung C49RG9 49.0" 5120x1440 120 Hz Monitor ($1399.99 @ Walmart) Total: $4656.21 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-08-18 05:50 EDT-0400 My Only 'regret' is not having gone with the white version of the case, since everything other than the RGB is effectively invisible in this case.

Any in particular? Most 7200RPM high capacity drives seem to be specialized for NAS/Surveilance and/or have middling/poor reviews. I'm certainly not opposed to a higher performance hard drive, but would like to keep it relatively silent.

Edited the OP part list. Questions I still have are: Still want mobo recommendation What memory should I get? Ghz, Cas latency etc. I'll probably overclock a bit, but not too much.

I'm fairly sure it would work; but it's nice to have headroom, especially if you factor in power draw from multiple USB devices (Audio, Rift, peripherals, phone, rift and other stuff). 550 Watt would probably run the PC without problems, but I'd expect the PSU fan to spin-up much more often when there's less headroom. Is that wrong? Also, at the price point I'm already at I'd rather spend a few bucks more here It's one among only a very few PCI-e 4 SSD's from a reputable brand out so far. Do I really need it? I doubt anyone would at this point. But for a 1TB SSD it's not actually that expensive. I saw that, but I'll probably go for the black. Will look at a few videos to compare them. The brushed aluminium on the front does go really nice with the white color-scheme.

Actually really like this case, not sure how exactly I overlooked it before but that looks like a perfect fit for this build. I had a quick look at a PSU calculator and ended up somewhere around 570 Watt; though calculating for a 9900K, since the 3900X wasn't listed. Technically 3900X has a lower TDP but I'd be surprised if it doesn't exceed 105 Watt at full load. That tier list is excluding X570 options right? I do really like the look of the Taichi X570, though I'm not sure how/if that would work with the heatsink on the Corsair Force MP600?

I currently have a GTX1080 with a 7700K and 2 24 inch 1080p monitors; which is fine. But I've ordered a Samsung C49RG90, for which I kind of want/need something better and I have money burning a hole in my pocket. For this build, money is not a significant issue, but cost should stay below 3500 euro in the Netherlands, cost of the list below without mobo and CPU lands at about 2460 euro. I have most of the desired parts more or less picked out. The list is something like this: Case: Fractal Design Define R6 Black TG Lian Li O11 Dynamic PSU: Corsair HX850 V2 Mobo: I don't know yet CPU: AMD Ryzen 3900X CPU Cooler: Cooler Master MasterLiquid ML360R RGB GPU: Gigabyte Aorus GeForce RTX 2080 Ti Xtreme Waterforce 11G Memory: Kingston HyperX Predator HX433C16PB3K2/32 (2x 16GB, 3,333 Ghz, CAS 16) SSD: Corsair Force MP600 1TB HDD: WD Blue 3.5" 6TB (256MB cache, 5400rpm) For what it's worth, no I won't need the 3900X for significant productivity. I won't reasonably use all 12 cores. But unless reviews come out in a few days showing the 3800 or 3700 comfortably beating the 3900X in gaming; I don't mind the extra cost very much and I'd like to go for the overkill. A few things I want to ask about: 1. Mobo recommendations? 2. What speed memory should I get? Assuming some overclocking.