keskparane

Pretty sure that replacing the keyboard is a case of ordering the new part and plugging it in. First thing to do is see if you can order the part. If you can then you could investigate if you are able to replace it yourself. I've replaced a few keyboards myself, they can be quite fiddly is all, but with patience and the right tools (usually just some small star or security screwdrivers) it can be done.

Were there any other disks in the machine when you installed windows or just the m.2 disks?

Depends on how you look at it. I have a Cyberpower UPS. It has phone and ethernet protection built in as well. While it didn't prevent a lightning strike from taking my system out the Cyberpower warranty replaced eveything. I'd call that protection.

Samsung magician is free. I have used it, I do use it, I would use it again. Don't worry about using an NVME as boot drive, you'll not wear it out.

There are a few things you can check. Firstly is it seated properly in the slot? - You should be able to pull the tags that lock it in sideways and partially eject the RAM. Then push the stick back in evenly until the tabs lock back into place. Secondly check that you have the sticks in the right slots. - For dual channel to work you will have to have the sticks in the correct slots. Read the manual to make sure you are using the right slots. You can check the MSI site for the compatibility with your RAM. Although that is just a tested list. Any RAM with the right specs should work. You can check if the BIOS is up to date. Firmware updates may fix some problems. Make sure to read all the notes that come with the BIOS update. Just a couple of things to get you started.

Here's what you're looking for. The PCIE port is rated for 75W of power, so you want a card designed to run at 75W max. That is why the 1050Ti has been recommended, because it's designed to draw 75W max. But you can choose any card you like designed to run up to 75W

I think he means 2mm diameter

Is the audio hardware showing in device manager?

It's often very practical to run ethernet the same route as the mains.

So youd rather run it outside over concrete driveway instead of using wifi?

I think you'll find that those files don't contain a binary bios image. Looks like they need to be run from windows.

5G doesn't handle obstacles as well as 2.4G so what's the LOS like? Cable is pretty much always going to be better but WIFI is very convienient.

Doesn't sound the least bit sentient to me. Grammatically it can string a few words together in a meaningful sentence but no sign of understanding imo. Plastic, face value, placations.

Why not use dropbox (or similar) to store the files. That way you can access and edit anywhere.

Should be fine. Only looking at around 0.2 A for both of them. Header should handle 1 A

When I built mine I used the cheapest parts I could find on everything but the fans. https://linustechtips.com/topic/296-the-water-cooling-gallery/?do=findComment&comment=11963078 And it's been running for hours daily ever since with nothing but the occasional level top up and last year threw in the last half of the bottle of CryoFuel

Talk to the IT guy at her work

How about just making the output go to both? Then just turn your speakers off when you don't want the sound coming from them. That's what I do

I think you're fine to go to F62 if you don't use qflash.

Of course assuming you've triple checked the RAM was firmly seated and the latches clicked into place

If not overclocked the I doubt BIOS then but still might be worth checking the BIOS version. See if it's current, old, not a beta version, or anything like that. Aside from that I'd think the motherboard would be the issue. I think I'm correct in say it's the motherboard that dictates the RAM voltage, and that's all that I could think would fry RAM.

Is the RAM overclocked at all in BIOS?

We don't do that here

Maybe you could run some fan control software, maybe even through bios, and play with individual fan speeds to see if you can isolate one of them?.

Yeah I'd say an 850W would be heaps. It's a 300W card yeah? Even if it ran up to 600W you should still have room with an 850W