Radu Matei Birle

Hello all! As per your recommendations, i swapped the two radiators while keeping the exact same tubing route and the front radiator (which was the bottom radiator before) is indeed still cold! I suppose this could mean a bad radiator as the loop is bled. Also, it was much easier and faster to bleed the loop this time, which would indeed make sense if the radiator in the front was shorted out as it would mean that now the radiator that is full of liquid is now in the lowest part so the air would flow easier to the reservoir. I guess what's left now is to order another 240mm from ebay and swap out this bad rad and maybe splice the cpu loop in series as the 3930k is getting pretty hot on it's own 280 mm (which is weird actually). The H110i is around 5 years old. It needs a coolant change, right ?

The concept of convection applies to air mostly. Yeah, it makes sense to not work against it, but as far as a liquid cooling loop, I don't think it would make a difference bigger than a couple tenths of a degree.

Thank you guys! I will try to swap the radiators but it kills me that I have to drain the loop. It's my only and main rig so that means downtime. When i have results, I'll post them. If any of you have any other suggestions, I will still be watching the thread.

I know this is a bit old, but as a guy that build amplifiers out of passion for audio, that static is almost always due to high input impedance of the device at the other end of the small signal audio cable, i.e. amplifier, mixer, etc. Nowadays, PCs have pretty good sound chips so i've resorted to using lower input impedances. My amplifiers are around 10k input impedance, tried even 1k but some devices had trouble with that (not PCs). The reason why you can use low impedances is due to them being designed to drive headphones, which are around 30 to 600 ohms. The lower the impedance, the lower the noise picked up from power lines running in the vicinity of your small signal audio cables. The dacs and opamps used have a high power supply noise rejection so it's really unlikely that dirty power is the reason for the static noise. Hope this helps you or others in distress

I might be trying that the next time I drain the loop, although, from what I've read on the interwebs, series is desirable for less powerful pumps. The local hardware store is out of fittings at the moment (I bought them all and when I asked, they said that they will only restock somewhere in June due to some misunderstanding with their supplier). Wouldn't solve the original problem though.

Perfect then. They are not correctly marked. Blue line is correct, orange line is correct, red line is not. The T splits the red line to the drain line on the side and the line towards the radiator. See here:

The front radiator is in the loop, in series. If it were in parallel I would have to have T lines, wouldn't I? It's a bit tight around there but I will try to snap a photo in a moment.

The pumps are not adjustable so they run at max speed all the time. When I tilted the case with not a lot of coolant in the loop I could see the water stream from the inlet of the radiator and it seemed similar to how it was from only one pump running with water from a basin.

Take a look at the barbs now. I lightened up the photo a bit.

The pumps are identical. The way you are looking at the pumps in the first photo, the inlet is on the right and the outlet is on the left. The outlet if the first pump (card on the left) goes to the inlet of the second pump (card on the right). The outlet of the second pump goes to the loop and the inlet of the first pump comes from the reservoir. Yes, I am sure the inlet and outlet ports are correct, I've tested both pumps by submerging both ports of one pump in a water basin and taking out one tube at a time to see from which one water is coming out.

I'm using diluted car antifreeze to combat galvanic corrosion, I've thought of that. I've gotten all the air out of the radiator for what I could tell. After bleeding, the liquid level in the reservoir dropped around 1cm and kept moving the case and squeezing the lines for around 15-20 minutes since no bubbles came out of the inlet of the reservoir. If there was air in the rad, I suppose you mean the bottom cooler rad, wouldn't water flow be limited? The flow rate of the loop looked to be similar to the flow of only one pump running without restriction, which actually seems about right (flow (1 pump, no restriction) ~=flow (2 pumps, restriction))

Posted.

Pump one is the top one.

Hello guys! I have trouble with a water cooling loop I made. I had two disassembled AIOs lying around, put the two cooling blocks / pump combos on the two 780s i have in my pc and the two 240 rads in the front and bottom of the case. Loop order is pump one outlet, pump two inlet, pump two outlet, T drain line, bottom rad, front rad, reservoir, pump one inlet. The cards sit within a few degrees of each other, at roughly 60 *C in furmark at 100% load, overclocked (-19mv, 152% power limit, +234 clock, +100 mem), rad fans at max. As for fans, I have a 200mm intake on the side, 140mm intake on the back, the four 120mm fans on the GPU loop radiators pulling air out of the case and 2 140mm fans in the top also pulling air out from the case. The two 140mm fans are on the CPU AIO which I'm having no trouble with. I know that the airflow is a bit weird but it should work. By calculating CFM in and out i get a small negative difference so it's not that big of a deal. The front rad is hotter than the bottom rad, no matter what. Do you have any idea why this would be? I'd be ok with it, i guess, if the hotter rad was the bottom one as it's the first in the loop, but it's the other one. Could the two pumps not be powerful enough? Thanks a lot!

I am not sure I will do it. The point was to ask you guys if anyone has ever done that and if it is worth it. I can source them locally, that is not the issue. Yeah that's what i was asking. I mean... the 780 is still a pretty capable card but it seems to me that the 3GB version is VRAM limited in most applications. I'm still looking for reviews that compare the STRIX card to the DCu2 card. The only one I found is the one from hardocp and it's somehow discouraging