Chaffy

No worries! Yeah I'm not quite sure what's going on, it'd definitely be nice if it were a prompt rather than a beep. The only way to get rid of it is to mute speakers. I only installed Steam, Discord, Spotify, and HWinfo yesterday, and none of those have caused issues like this in the past. I may try a re-image just to see what happens. Thanks again!

I'm glad that post showed up for you, as I did not see that one come up in my Google search, but maybe I used bad wording. Below is a quote from my original post: Perhaps reading my post in full detail would also have lead you to assume this was not a manufacturer thing, as was my thought. I've worked with hundreds of laptops at this point, several different brands, and never ran into this. It's an Acer-specific thing I suppose. Thank you for your input!

For a quick update, I downloaded HWinfo64, and can confirm based on it as well as Windows that the device is charging just fine.

Hi all, I just bought a new laptop yesterday at Micro Center, the Acer Predator Helios 300, 2021 version (with i7-11800H and RTX 3060.) Whenever I plug or unplug the charger, the laptop makes a beeping sound from the speakers. It sounds like a short BIOS beep code, coming out of the laptop's speakers (I don't believe this laptop has a speaker meant for BIOS beep codes specifically; I don't see a system speaker in Device Manager.) The only way to stop this sound is to mute my speakers, which obviously isn't acceptable. Everything I've read online leads to potential circuitry issues, but the laptop works just fine on battery, and on charger. I'm curious to know what is causing this. This issue was not present yesterday when I got it, and I don't believe I've bent the charging cable too much to cause this kind of issue. I've tried the following things: - Restarted and shut down laptop - Checked for and installed Windows updates - Checked speaker and battery drivers No change for any of these. Again, it doesn't seem to be affecting performance, as the laptop functions perfectly fine on and off battery power. I just would like to know early on if I need to take it back or submit a warranty claim with Acer. Any input is very much appreciated. Thanks! EDIT: I downloaded HWinfo64, and can confirm based on it as well as Windows that the device is charging just fine.

If your CPU reached 100% usage, you'd start to see horrible lag across your entire PC, and given enough time, it would BSOD or restart itself. With gaming, you want your GPU usage to be high, and CPU usage to be low. Your PC won't max out the CPU on purpose because you'd likely run into a crash after a long while of it running at 100%. As the user above you said, try running a test on User Benchmark and see what the results are. It more than likely will show your CPU is bottlenecking your GPU. Edit: And as the first user stated, Farming Sim may be one of those games that is horrible about its CPU usage, where it doesn't utilize multiple cores, rather it will just max out 1-2 cores and leave the rest of the CPU for the rest of the system (hence why only 50% is being used, which isn't necessarily a bad thing; it just means your single core performance for your CPU isn't as good as it should be, therefore indicating you have a CPU bottleneck.)

Specs are listed at the bottom of this post. Obligatory "not my PC" to start things off. This was a friend of mine, and I've tried everything I can to help him out. Here's what happened, and what steps we've tried: - Bought new cables for the PC from PhanTeks, installed new cables and PC POSTs - PC worked fine, was in the middle of watching YouTube when PC suddenly brought up a BSOD (SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION), PC rebooted, all was okay - 30 minutes later, PC brings up same BSOD, however it stayed at 0% progress - Friend did not realize how to properly turn off PC by holding power button, unplugs power cable from PSU (with PC still on), plugs back in, and boots computer. (Yes, he now realizes how to turn off a PC properly when it's stuck on a BSOD. We're currently in the damage control stage to see if anything is fried.) - PC no longer okay. CPU and DRAM LEDs are flashing back and forth. CPU LED lights for a split second, then switches to DRAM LED for 2-3 seconds, and repeats. - Friend swapped to old cables in case those were causing problems, so new cables are out of the picture for the time being Things we've tried to troubleshoot: - Reset CMOS, gave it 10-15 minutes, then reseated and booted. No POST - Pulled RAM out of each slot, tried booting with 1 stick at a time in every slot, total of 16 separate boots. No POST - Tried with no RAM completely, POST gets stuck on DRAM LED Also tried with CPU power unplugged, POST gets stuck on CPU LED (these 2 tests showed me that the motherboard was at least detecting these two things separately; more of a S&G's kind of test) - Tried with no GPU. No POST As mentioned in the 4th step of what happened, yes he unplugged directly from the PSU with the PC still on, and that's likely where something went wrong. We're in damage control mode now, trying to figure out what particularly is broken/fried. Is there anything else we can try besides using different RAM/CPU? Thanks a bunch! Specs: Windows 10 OS Motherboard: MSI MPG Z390M Gaming Edge AC CPU: i7-9700k @ 4.2 GHz (stock 3.6 GHz) RAM: 4x8GB (32GB) Corsair Vengenace 3200MHz PSU: Corsair CX650M Gold Certified GPU: ZOTAC Gaming RTX 2060

@paddy-stone issue is fixed. The setting that shows how to get the IP address was already set to "Get dynamically from ISP", but all I did was re-apply the setting and it fixed it. Internet is up and running. Thanks for your input!

I have, and that’s where I’m currently at. I started the network genie as “I want to set it up myself” so I have access to its settings. I’m able to connect to the router’s interface just fine, just not the internet. What should I try within the interface?

To give some background, I've been having issues with my ISP recently having unbearably slow connection speeds from 2-6am most mornings. I thought this could potentially be an issue I could fix by power cycling the ISP's modem. This only made it so that my Nighthawk router now cannot connect to the Internet at all. However, if I directly connect my PC to my modem via Ethernet, I get a working Internet connection. It's been down for at least 16 hours now, with no luck to any solutions I've tried. Here is what I've tried so far: - Power cycled both modem and router (keep in mind the modem is my ISP's modem, but my personal router) - After my router wouldn't reconnect, tried holding reset button on the back of the router to reconfigure settings through the genie (at this point, it wouldn't even detect an Internet connection coming from the modem, but again, I have internet access when I direct connect my PC to the modem.) - Checked all connections including ethernet, power, and coaxial cable coming from the wall. All secure and where they should be. All lights on the router, including the power light, are white and are functioning (by appearance at least) as normal. The only light not working, of course, is the Internet light which shines a bright orange. I'm not able to reconfigure my router to pick up new settings because the genie won't pick up an IP address in the first place. I called my ISP, but this was not something they could fix as the issue lies between the connection between the modem and the router. I called Netgear, but they wouldn't put me to higher end support to help reconfigure the router (even though it seems impossible at the current state of my router) unless I bought their premium support plan. What is my next step? If there are any other specifications or information I need to provide to help you all better diagnose my problem, please let me know!

I swapped the cables to where they're supposed to be and it now works. This has truly been the stupidest method of fixing a monitor's refresh rate as I've ever seen. Thanks for the input @JoostinOnline and @factorialandha

Surprisingly, this worked. I now have both monitors running at 144Hz, however I can't keep it like this because there's now a cable streteched across my keyboard (1 DVI cable is significantly shorter in length.) I'll try messing around a bit and seeing if I can fully fix this.

Hello! I have just purchased a 2nd ASUS VG248QE monitor to match my 1st one. Both are capable of running at 144Hz. The first monitor runs 144Hz just fine, and has done so for almost a year now. I bought the 2nd monitor because of my janky corner desk setup, I use a controller for certain video games, etc. etc. My problem is that the new monitor will not go to 144Hz, and only has 60Hz as a refresh rate option in the display adapter properties, while the original still has the typical 60, 85, 100, 120, and 144Hz refresh rate availability. A couple notes on my setup: GPU - MSI GTX 970 4G Gaming (I'm using DVI for both monitors, so the GPU shouldn't be the issue since it does have 2 dual-link ports, but I could be wrong) CPU - i7 6700k @ stock 4.0GHz RAM - 16 GB If there's any other information I need to supply let me know. I'd really like to get this fixed so I can make good use of my new monitor.

Sorry for the late response. All intake fans are connected to a fan controller, running the same speed. Exhaust is running to the motherboard and is set to run at 100% all the time. Temps are always fine for me, I just wanted approval.

I've got a Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO. I would think if I left the back fan as intake, my CPU fan and rear fan (now working as an intake) would be working against each other, pushing air into one another with the current CPU fan placement. Because of motherboard space restrictions, I don't have the ability to flip the fan on the CPU cooler around, otherwise this might fix that issue.

I'm selling professional profile pictures for $0.50 a piece, trying to get my name out there lol

Hello all. I have a quick question/concern about my current case's fan setup. I have 5 120mm fans working as intake, and 1 120mm fan working as exhaust. Here is a link to a professionally-drawn image that diagrams the scene. My case is a Corsair 760T. Is this case setup creating way too much positive pressure, and is that really a bad thing? Or am I worrying too much? Thanks! https://gyazo.com/112034ee92fa6c10a850c70de26c0b97

I wouldn’t have an issue with completely wiping and starting from fresh if I didn’t have so much schoolwork saved. Thankfully the issue isn’t there anymore so I don’t have to hassle with transferring all the saved homework assignments and such.

*NOTE: as I write this, my laptop took a good 5-10 minutes trying to shut down before eventually restarting itself; all issues have been fixed, and it is back to normal speed. However, I still wanted to post this just to see what could have been the issue. Thanks! Hey all, I’m new to the community, been watching LTT and techquickie for a couple years now. Really enjoy the content, keep up the great work! On to my problem: I have a Gigabyte Sabre 15 gaming laptop that I bought about 6 months ago. It has been an amazing laptop, ran some of my favorite games very well. Now I’m using it for college, and all of my class work must be submitted online. Over the last couple days, it suddenly got very slow, way out of the norm for its short age. There was no sort of “build up” to this problem; it just suddenly became slow one day when booting up. This seems like it should be a simple fix, but the problems are so diverse and random that I’m really not sure where to start. Here’s a list of issues I’m having: - certain basic functions attached to the keyboard don’t work until 10-15 seconds AFTER pushing the key. Examples include turning up and down my brightness, the button that turns off my screen (doesn’t shut down laptop though). It also takes 15-20 seconds to begin the shutdown process, however, after the screen has turned off, it takes around a full minute to fully shut down where no fans are running and the power light turns off. • note: the catch to this problem is that some functions work fine; volume changing (through my keyboard at least) works fine, for example - I’ve used norton to fully scan my entire computer (all 900 thousand some odd files); 9 threats were found and fixed, but this did not improve speeds - WiFi takes at least 20 minutes before it will recognize and fully connect with any WiFi source (this includes school’s WiFi and my personal hotspot, so neither of those 2 should be the issue) - programs (such as Microsoft word or Discord) work fine (meaning at the speed I’m used to) once I’m in them; but opening them takes that previously mentioned 15-20 seconds. As mentioned in the fore-note, these issues are no longer present, but I still want to post this to see what in the world could have gone wrong. Shutting down, changing brightness; all that is normal. But what causes this to come up so randomly? Given that the issues are now gone, are there any tests I can run to ensure this doesn’t happen again, or at least figure out what went wrong? Has anyone seen something like this before? Computer specs: GIGABYTE Sabre 15 i7-7700HQ GTX 1050Ti 16GB RAM M.2 SSD w/ 256 GB + 1 TB HDD at 7200 RPM Windows 10 Home edition