GodOfKnockers

Well isn't my face red...That worked. All the ram is working now and there are no crashes of issues.

25 minutes ago, RONOTHAN## said:

Have you gone back to the older BIOS revision you were running before? Newer does not always mean better for BIOS revisions, especially for memory support, especially on AMD systems where the AGESA updates are liable to break memory overclocking every once in a while. It's very likely that this BIOS revision is just borked, and running it is not a good idea. 

 

Is there a particular reason you did the BIOS update now? Unless you have a specific reason to, it's generally a good idea to find a BIOS revision that works and stick with it. 

The Mobo was actually 3 versions behind, so I updated it to keep up to date. I am going to try and revert back to the older version and hope that helps.

I have an ASUS TUF Gaming X570-plus motherboard, and a few days ago, I installed the latest BIOS update (5013) and since then, I have had all kinds of issues with memory. I had all these errors popping up and I have had to resort to doing memory testing. After a few hours of tests, I found that ALL of the memory checks out and that it's a DIMM slot on the motherboard (Slot A1) that is causing the memory problems and crashes, so I removed the DIMM from the slot and it's been fine since. I inspected the slot and I don't see any damage or burns in he slot. 

Even though this is a signal that the mobo is starting to go out, what still gets me is that the board is only 4 years old and that I have NEVER had a single issue with memory until I did this recent bios update. It's weird, but I just can't ignore it. Is there something I'm missing?

I'm using Windows 11 Pro, but I have an issue with the Windows Backup. I have it set to run every Sunday at 4pm, but it never completes the task. The backup medium is brand new, and I have checked it or errors and it's perfectly fine. I make sure that there are no apps running in the background, and it is running at a time I am away from the PC, so it's not in use. 

I'm looking for an alternative to Windows Backup. Free and paid options. Any suggestions?

5 minutes ago, GuiltySpark_ said:

How exactly is Win-P helping you, out of curiosity? I've never once needed that command for a permanent dual display desktop setup. 

As I am learning now, it's the shortcut to manage my displays, which is super helpful. Remember that I am a few days new into using a dual display setup.

11 minutes ago, Mojo-Jojo said:

If you mean switching from one to multiple monitors or back is clunky, as in you don't always use the second monitor:

⊞ Win + P does that trick quite well for me.

OK that actually helps. I had no idea about the keyboard shortcut. Been going to windows settings > display this whole time.

I'm also going to get Powertoys installed and use FancyZones.

Thank you all so much for the help.

I have just recently updated up work/gaming/production setup with a second monitor, and I was wondering if there is any software that can help me with managing both of them.

Right now I am just relying on using Windows 11 for monitor management, as the second monitor will only be used for specific operations, but I have found that it is rather clunky between switching from one monitor in use to two. Or do I still need to get used to using two monitors?

Thank you advance for the help and suggestions. 

I recently updated my BIOS for my TUF GAMING X570-PLUS (WI-FI) motherboard, and I'm having issues with the memory. Under the older BIOS I was able to enable D.O.C.P. and adjust my Memory frequency to 3200Mhz. I have Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (4 X 8GB) DDR4 3200 (PC4-25600) C16 1.35V Desktop Memory installed. The BIOS was reporting the memory speeds wrong so I set it to 3200MHz in the AI tweaker under BIOS, but since then, the PC hangs on the Amber light for Memory, and I have to reset the PC to get it to boot. I have tried to set it back to auto in the settings, and the problem still remains. 

Can anyone help me with this? My PC was working just fine until I updated the BIOS.

Edit: Removed screenshot and Posted a video detailing what the issue is.

Edit: I Figured it out. https://youtu.be/lUFsec2iyBQ

I'm still on Windows 10 and using Defender, but I wonder is it still good to use in 2022.

I have been using it since windows 10 came out and I have never really had an issue with viruses Malware or Ransomware (To be clear though, I make sure to avoid janky websites).

I'm also a developer and streamer/gamer so security is rather important, and I want to make sure I'm up to date on protection. 

So should I still keep using Windows defender, or find something else?

8 minutes ago, OhioYJ said:

Did you buy the key from Microsoft? Where did the key come from is it a retail key or OEM keys. Technically OEM keys are tied to hardware, Retail keys can be transferred. That being said Microsoft tends to turn a blind eye to transferring even OEM keys generally, and they still activate.

 

I bought all my keys directly from Microsoft, and they are tied to my Microsoft account. When I build a new PC, I remove the old PC from my account, use the key on the new PC no problems. 

I got windows 10 activation via digital license. The free upgrade when Windows 10 came out in 2015 That license is connected to my Microsoft account. 

I got a new PC from a friend of mine and I plan to install Windows 10 on it, and I want to give the one I have to a family member. Is there any way to transfer the license key from this PC to the new one? My copy of Windows 10 was activated via a digital license connected to my Microsoft account. 

If I have to buy new keys that's fine, I just want to know if I can transfer the activation from one PC to another.

Thanks in advance for the replies.

6 minutes ago, Eigenvektor said:

That's down to personal preference I'd say. Both are based on Ubuntu, so it's no surprise their setup and package management is very similar. Xubuntu uses Xfce, which is supposed to be a bit more lightweight than Gnome used by Pop OS, but you're not likely to notice on a modern PC. You can also install either Desktop Environment (DE) on either OS, so you could use Pop OS with Xfce, if you prefer.

For Pop OS, do you recommend the standard (21.04) or LTS (20.04)?

I'm making a Dual Boot system, but I can't decide which Linux OS to use. Both Os'es are good and their setups are the same, including setting up the partitions for them both, but I can't decide which one will give me the most bang for the buck (and yes I know they are both free, that was a figure of speech).

So, Suggestions?

I have 2 USB portable drives that use Windows 10 BitLocker, which has worked pretty well for some time, but as of late I have found that I'll need those drives to read/transfer files from Windows 10 AND Linux, so bitlocker isn't going to cut it anymore. Can anyone recommend a good drive encryption software that I can use in both Windows and Linux? 

On 10/18/2021 at 12:28 PM, Kilrah said:

Linux should just read your Windows drive without anything special, allowing you to backup the files. 

 

As to the reset breaking - no idea, but it's usually recommended to do a fresh install instead. Don't really have suggestions, could try another reset but I guess that's not even an option since you can't operate it without peripherals.

Thank you.

So today I reset my PC instead of doing a fresh install of the OS. Everything went fine until I tried to login. My Keyboard and Mouse are not responding to anything. I'm on a dual boot system so I have access to the web and the Keyboard and Mouse are working in Linux, but they won't in Windows 10. I learned that as windows boots, it disabled the front AND Rear panel ports on the PC. The OS isn't frozen as it's keeping time perfectly, but It won't connect to the Internet or respond to any device I plug in. I've tried Diagnostics and system repair, and it does nothing. 

I chose to Reset the PC because I'm in the middle of cleaning up files and getting ready to use a backup service, but at the time Windows 10 was having that "Not-so-fresh" feeling: Certain features were becoming slow and sluggish, freezes, etc.

I did a reset so I could restore the OS' "Freshness" and continue on with getting the files ready for backup. The settings I chose for the reset were to keep all personal files and download a copy of windows from the Cloud (Cloud Install).

There is a lot of files that need to be backed up and many of them are for business and financial. A fresh install would wipe it all out. 

So I'm asking you is there any way to fix this installation? Are there any tools I can use from Linux to transfer files from the Windows 10 drive to another?

I really need help on this.

So fully rested and thinking clearly, I attempted to install the card again. The card has 2 8-pin connectors. I didn't notice it because as I was handling the card my thumb was covering the two of the pins on the side. It's also not a good idea to install anything when tired. I have two 6-pin connectors. I only have one 8-pin, so this isn't going to work. Thought there were two but alas there isn't. I'll just opt to save up to build another rig in the near future.

Thanks for your time guys.

Edit: forget everything that I posted Earlier. After putting the old card back, The PC was still cutting off. After inspecting the machine I found a Brown Recluse (Spider) had gotten into my CPU fan. The fan wasn't spinning and the CPU overheated. After cleaning out everything the Fan is working again.

So in the morning, I'm going to inspect the PC, clean it out and install the card. I will keep you posted.

3 hours ago, mariushm said:

TDP value doesn't equal power consumption ... it's more of a "you must design the cooling solution good enough to dissipate at least this much heat" value. 

A silicon chip can consume more power than the TDP for a brief period as long as the cooling solution can handle it. For example, say the fan on the cpu cooler blows at default speed and the heatsink is at 50c ... the cpu "knows" that if it suddenly consumes 100 watts, it will take 5 seconds or so until the heatsink reaches 80c, even though the fan also ramps up its rotation speed. So it knows it can have some bursts of over 80w (the thermal design of the heatsink/fan solution) for shorter than x seconds, as long as after those x seconds it makes sure to consume less than what the cooling solution is rated for, to allow for the temperatures to go down.

 

In specific case of Intel, the TDP is more of a range.. they have some preset TDP values like 35w , 54w, 65w, 80w ... what they mean when they give a CPU a TDP of 80w, is that the cpu is not good enough to get into the 65w TDP, but good enough for 80w... It's a RANGE ... 65...80w.

Depending on silicon chip quality, the same Intel Xeon E5645 chip could consume an average of 70 watts and another chip could consume an average of 75w, and both could burst to 90-100w for short periods of time here.

 

You can read more about how TDP works on Xeon processors like yours here : https://www.anandtech.com/show/13526/intel-xeon-e-review-e2186g-and-more-tested/12

The link also shows the maximum power consumption of some Xeon processors in the chart down on the page... for example you can see 80w TDP Xeon E3-1280 v5 80w TDP (4c/8t) consume only 62 watts - they simply don't put it in 65w TDP category because they want to leave room for worse quality silicon chips which go above the 65w threshold so they left it on the 80w TDP "preset".

 

So anyway, my estimation for your cpu is correct - it should peak at around 100w but on average it should consume closer to 80w.

 

As for the video card, the TDP value there is just for the gpu silicon chip.  Same stuff I said about processors applies, but video cards also have their own GDDR5/GDDR6/GDDR6X memory and that's where that difference is.

The TDP for GTX970 chip may be 148w, but the 4 GB of GDDR5 memory consume around 10-15 watts and the dc-dc converters on the video card converting 12v to 1v...1.5v the video card uses are only around 95%+ efficient ... so around 170w in total for the video card makes sense.

 

 

 

 

Okay. That actually helps. I'll give it shot, and hope for the best. Thank for the help. I really do appreciate it.

4 hours ago, ragnarok0273 said:

This doesn't change the fact that it's not the right name for it.

I understand the need for approximate naming for hardware but, and I say this respectfully, it takes away from the issue at hand and I really need help with this. I don't want to install this card into my PC and damage it or anything else inside. I don't have the funds to replace anything if something goes wrong. 

4 hours ago, mariushm said:

I don't care.  They only called it RTX to shove in my face that it has raytracing, which most people don't care about.

 

So you have something like this:

1.  CPU - probably around 100w or less from 12v you don't say what cpu you have but few 4-6 core cpus go above 100w

2. motherboard - maybe 20-30w, most from 5v and 3.3v (chipset, onboard audio, onboard network)

3. ram - around 1-2 watts per stick, so 6 sticks .. let's say around 15 watts, usually powered from 5v but could be 12v

4. hard drives .. around 8-10 watts each ,  half on 5v , half on 12v

5. SSD, usually less than 3 watts, from 5v only

6. DVD burner .... around 5 watts while reading discs, mostly 12v due to motor spinning the discs .. around 8-10w while writing discs

7. fans consume around 1-2 watts each

8. The GTX 970 consumes up to 180 watts from 12v

 

So you're looking at around 350 watts maximum from 12v out of a budget of 475 watts - 200w for video card, 100w cpu, 50w the rest.

 

When gaming, a RTX 2080 Super peaks at around 265 watts for brief periods (less than 2-3s), and sustained it can stay at around 250 watts.

So basically, if you get cpu AND video card to 100%, you may get close to 400-420w out of 475w budget.

 

It gets close to the limits of the power supply, but in real world the video card is only gonna reach 250w in games. While rendering, doing CUDA / Open CL stuff the video card is not gonna consume this much, and also cpu is unlikely to be near 100% all the time. so you should be fine with it.

 

If you want to double check my numbers, you can buy one of those power meters and see how much the computer actually consumes:

kuman KW47-US Electricity Usage Monitor Plug Power Watt Voltage Amps Meter with Digital LCD, Overload Protection and 7 Display Modes for Energy Saving (NO-Backlight), white - - Amazon.com

Amazon.com: P3 P4400 Kill A Watt Electricity Usage Monitor: Home Improvement

 

These will report how much power (watts) the power supply takes from the outlet, which will be a number higher than what the components actually consume.  Considering the power supply is 80+ standard, so only around 80-85% efficient, you can simply take that number  and multiply it by 0.85 to get the amount of watts the components actually consume.

 

So for example, say you start your rendering software or whatever and start doing something very intensive and you see on the meter 300 watts. That means that out of 625 watts possible, the components only consumed 300 watts x 0.85 = ~ 260 watts.  That's not even half the capabilities of the power supply.

All of what you are saying seems to make sense. I can't verify your measurements, but you don't strike me as someone who is just trolling for fun. IDK if this helps, but I'm enclosing images the technical spces of the Processor and Graphics Card, and Mainboard that I'm using. Not saying that I don't trust you, I just want to be through. On the Nvidia website, The Watts for the 970 is 145W, while the 2080 Super is 250W but that's with a i9 Processor.

DESKTOP-4RY34F4.txt

7 minutes ago, Blue4130 said:

As in a computer supplied by your company? 

I'm freelance. Video editing and Game Development.

9 minutes ago, mariushm said:

 

Your current power supply can provide up to 475w on 12v while 125w are reserved for 3.3v and 5v. 

This is typical of a group regulated standard atx power supply. More modern gold and higher efficiency power supply will produce all those 650w or more on 12v and then use dc-dc converters to produce 3.3v and 5v from 12 as needed, so there's no 125 watts separate, always reserved for 3.3v and 5v. Modern computers probably only use around 40-50w combined on both 3.3v and 5v, so it makes more sense.

 

Anyway, unless you're gonna buy a gtx 3070 or something higher end, your psu will be good enough for your needs.

 

How about you say what hardware you're gonna have in the computer and me or others can give you an estimation on how much the components will consume so you don't waste your money on a power supply when there's no need to do it.

So far it has A DVD-R Burner, 2 HDD and 1 SSD, Nvidia GTX 970 (4GB) with 24 GB Of Ram.

I wanted to swap out the 970 for a Geforce RTX 2080 Super. 

Edit: This is a work computer and it's the only one I have so I don't wanna risk installing this card and destroying it and the PC.

38 minutes ago, JTPOTATO said:

Hi, from what I can see the Power supply is standard ATX size... however do you know whether it has a standard 24-pin ATX connection like below?

 

I've been trying to find the technical manuals for this pc, but all I can find atm, is a picture of the original stock supply from an Ebay auction https://www.ebay.com/c/1300671193 It looks like it though.

The current power supply in this unit is 625W, and I need 650W or 750W. Can anyone recommend a replacement power supply for this PC?

Clear CMOS and run Memtest if the issue continutes: https://www.memtest86.com/download.htm

If the test comes back with any errors its more than likely a memory issue. Whenever you get a Memory kit it's better and safe practice to get the same type of memory across the board. Not saying that different mem kits could be the issue but it could be a possibility.