eyeangle

I'm planning a new build but I want to keep my existing M.2 SSD with Windows 11 installed. My copy of Windows is currently attached to my motherboard as it's been so since it was built so when I put my M.2 SSD into a new build will Windows prompt me to buy a new product key? I'm tossing up whether to do it this way or just buy a new M.2 SSD and a new copy of Windows for a clean install.

Thank you so much! You're right! I switched over to a DisplayPort cable and now it is displaying 10-bit on both the NVIDIA Control Panel and Windows settings. Can I just ask how on Earth did you find this information? I have been using HDMI for years now with this card and never knew that.

I don't think I have HDR / WCG enabled. When I select HDR in Windows settings the screen goes all washed out, even though I have a Vesa Certified DisplayHDR 600 sticker on my monitor.

Connecting via HDMI running off a GeForce 1660 ti.

I have the Philips monitor 328P6VU which Philips states is a 10-bit monitor however under settings in Windows 11 it says the bit depth is 8-bit. Also under NVIDIA Control Panel I can only select the Output colour depth as 8 bpc. I've already installed the driver from Philips' website but still no luck. Am I doing something wrong?

Thank you (both) so much for clearing that up for me.

I'm thinking of upgrading from 64GB to 128GB Memory. I checked the manual of my Motherboard (Gigabyte B550 AORUS ELITE AX), and this is what is says under memory: - 4 x DDR4 DIMM sockets supporting up to 128 GB (32 GB single DIMM capacity) of system memory. - Support for DDR4 3200/2933/2667/2400/2133 MHz memory modules. Then I ran CPU-Z and my current Corsair memory is running at a frequency of 1066MHz. (4x16GB modules). The manual doesn't say anything about supporting 1066MHz which it's currently doing, so would I notice a difference upgrading to 128GB 3200MHz? I use my PC for 4K video editing in DaVinci Resolve and occasional gaming.

Thanks for your reply. Arh, that's frustrating. I do have more USB3.0 ports on the rear IO but I wouldn't mind having a go if it's not too complicated. It's a Thermaltake Versa N25 case. I'll have a look online and see if I can find a tutorial.

I had a custom PC built for me but they only gave me one USB3.0 port. How do I make the right one work?

Yes you're right, Speccy is shit. I've gone back to CPU-Z and it's displaying the correct info. Thanks. I'm also going to check out GPU-Z, haven't heard of this but looks good from what I've read.

I recently switched from CPU-Z to Speccy to show my system specs but I noticed under Graphics it says my NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1660 Ti has 2047MB of memory which is incorrect because this card has 6GB of memory. Does anybody know what's going on here? Also, is Speccy the best app to use to display system specs or would you recommend me something else?

Ah ha! Right you are. I opened up Optimize Drive and waited 3 minutes and it continued defragmenting. It's all done now. Thanks heaps.

If I don't touch my mouse or keyboard for about 3 minutes my hard drive starts doing something. By something I mean it sounds like files are being transferred to and from the hard drive. It's really difficult to catch what it's doing because as soon as I move the mouse or type something, the noise stops, and I have to wait 3 minutes for it to start up again. I opened Task Manager and waited but it shows nothing when the noise is going. My specs are; I am running Windows 10 Pro on an M.2 SSD, and I have two internal mechanical hard drives connected via sata that I use for storage, it's one of these hard drive that is making the noise as though it's currently being used for something. A 2TB and a 6TB.

I seem to have found a solution. There's an app called PDP Control Hub that allows remapping of the trigger buttons but it requires me to purchase a PDP controller. I'll give it another go with the regular controller and try and get used to it over the next day otherwise I'll get a PDP controller. On a plus side they are cheaper than the regular Xbox ones.

Yeh this game only gives 2 options, none of which suit me.

How do I use that on my Xbox One S?

I'm very new to Xbox. The last console I owned was the GameCube and one of my favourite games was Crash Nitro Kart so as you can imagine I went out and bought Crash Team Racing Nitro-Fueled with an Xbox One S. I got home and set everything up and realised I can't control the player properly because poweslide is LB and RB, instead of LT and RT. The in-game controller option doesn't allow me to switch these buttons. Every other button is fine, I just want these ones switched. It feels very uncomfortable to play and unnatural, I simply can't play it. I read the Xbox One S comes with a built-in app to remap buttons but it applies to the entire system and all games unless you change it back and I only want to remap the buttons for this one game. I've actually emailed the developers to give me this option in the next patch but who knows if they'll listen. Anybody know of an app that will allow me to remap LB and RB to LT and RT just for this one game?

I've been using GoDaddy for years and starting to realise they're marketing scammers after I heard my dad buy into all the bullshit the GoDaddy employee was up-selling to my dad. First it was the security certificate, then the GoDaddy managed security certificate because the security certificate by itself wasn't working, but that doesn't cover Malware so you need to buy that as well. He would have bought it all had I not cut the conversation off. And it's the same guy from GoDaddy calling every time to sell something. Does anybody else here think they're scammers? So yeah looking for an alternative- possibly Google?

I have heaps of them- just PM me your snail mail address and I'll post you 4 for free. This size will fit any 2.5" SSD, but I also have the #6-32 UNC screws for 3.5" HDDs if you need those too.

oh I see to avoid shorts on the boards

Awesome guys- thanks for your help. So why are thermal pads used in this case?

I want to use these caddies with an SSD but when I removed the VelociRaptor hard drives, this stuff was underneath. The bottoms of the hard drives were also a little sticky with some kind of leftover residue.

Only a few years ago, sometime after the purchase of HGST by WD, I called the main computer shops in my city and asked if they sold any Toshiba hard drives. Most of them replied, "Toshiba hard drive? We don't sell Toshiba hard drives, why would you want one? Seagate and WD are the main HDD brands." I ended up purchasing a Toshiba MD04ACA400 from a computer parts retailer in my city, just over 20km from where I live. Other than this shop, Toshiba HDDs were hard to come by in my city. I had owned Seagate and WD over the years and had both fail on me and wanted to try something new and to my surprise the Toshiba HDD was cheaper than the others in cost-per-gigabyte. Nowadays with Toshiba's P300 and X300 series they are competing with Seagate and WD. How do you think Toshiba has done it from barely being heard of just a few years ago and do you own a Toshiba HDD?

Oh damn! I just realised my Mac Pro 5,1 that I tested these on is only SATA 2 so it has been a failed experiment. I'll have to get a SATA 3 Windows PC to test.

Are these 2.5" to 3.5" caddies SATA 3? I did some speed tests using a 240GB WD Green SSD and I'm getting under 300MB/s reads and writes. I've removed the caddy head on one of them so you can read what was underneath. You can see the silver caddy part number and the black one is a western digital velociraptor caddy. If these caddy heads are indeed SATA 2 can you guys tell me where to buy SATA 3 caddy heads that will fit these caddies.