WQXGAisStillGreat

Here's a video of Heaven showing artifacts. Anyone have ideas?

I'm taking a look at a laptop for a friend and I haven't seen this symptom before... I can launch Unigine Heaven (or pretty much any game) and see visual glitches immediately (polygons appearing sporadically over top the 3D rendering,) but I can run the benchmark or games indefinitely with no actual crashes. I've already performed a 'Clean' install of the driver via GeForce experience, again with DDU in safe mode, and changed the aging thermal paste. No change in behavior after each procedure. GPU temps stay 65-70C when running Heaven. He has Intel onboard graphics as well, but has set the preference to always use the Nvidia GPU. Anything else I can try before resorting to swapping the chip? Thanks!

That's the unfortunate truth for their mobile devices. I appreciate that their desktops aren't software locked (yet), but when I encounter a pointless limitation on my iPhone, I'm glad to have a rooted Pixel in my other pocket

The slowdown patch was applied in 10.2.1. If you're running newer than that, you already have it. You can run CPU DasherX (or CPU Dasher64) to read your processor's current frequency and compare it to the listed stock frequency of the chips in your respective devices. I find that for me (my battery is only slightly degraded) my CPU runs at stock speeds until the battery reaches about 30% and then the CPU begins to throttle down. I'm actually not opposed to this approach as it will stretch out the life of the charge and give me a little more time to find my charger NOTE: If you receive a message that you need to be on a later version of iOS to download an app from the app store, IT IS possible to download the older version of the app that worked with your current system. You'll need a version of iTunes older than 12.7 (this is easiest on a second computer or virtual machine, as you need to completely uninstall the newer version to run an older one.) Once signed in with your Apple ID, navigate from the music tab down to the Apps tab. Search for the app you need and get it. Now, the app is associated with your Apple ID and you should be able to search for it on your iOS device and will now see the 'cloud download' icon, indicating you have downloaded it before. The app store will then serve your device the most recent version of the app that was designed for your version of iOS. Alternatively, if you have one iOS device running the latest iOS, grab it on this device first, and then the older device will be able to download the older version similarly to the instructions above. Hopefully this helped someone

Have you tried resetting CMOS yet? This might be coincidental timing for a hardware failure. I'd try reseating the RAM and graphics card as well, and remove any additional PCIe cards and SATA connectors that aren't required for POST and see what happens.

If you have an active license of either Windows 7 or 8(.1), you can still upgrade to the equivalent windows 10 license for free under the 'assistive technologies' stipulation (the software is no different.) https://www.cnet.com/how-to/microsoft-windows-10-free-upgrade-offer-assistive-features/ Edit: Looks like MS is closing the door for this on Dec. 31 - but there's still time!

Despite what it looks like, this is almost certainly an OS issue based on my experience. You're not able to get into the BIOS at all? Have you tried resetting CMOS by pulling the battery out with the power unplugged for at least 2 minutes?

I encourage you to weigh what the opportunity could do for your next opportunity in the future as well as just in the present. Remember that you're more likely to be hired into an even better position after committing to a lesser one. Think about what you'd be giving up for the next two years. Two years is enough time to really show your commitment and you'll look very attractive to other prospective employers. If you end up in the right place and develop a strong resume, chances are employers won't care as much whether you have piercings or tattoos. If you're at the top of your market, you'll get to name your price and conditions. So think of this as a stepping stone, and not what you'll need to commit to for the rest of your career.

While not cutting edge in the slightest, I think the macbook air is one of the smartest buys for a set-it-and-forget-it apple user. In my years as a consultant, I've seen them survive various beverages spilled into the keyboard, dropped from irresponsible places, and even once run over by a car on the highway (this one needed a new LCD panel, but otherwise lived to see another day.) Aside from that, they carry two legacy USB 3 ports for good compatibility in the current tech world, thunderbolt for fast I/O should you want it, and 12-hour battery life. The 1440x900 13" screen is nothing to rave about, but it's not really anything to complain about either. It's important to note that these machines have not seen a lot of change since 2013 (introduced Haswell Architecture, PCIe SSD) and that the last significant update was 2015 (the i5 received a speedbump in 2017, but the i7 is identical, and even carries the same machine ID as the 'brand new' one you can get in a retail store.) You can pick up a '2015' model on the used market for as little as $600, which I consider well worth the machine. The speed difference between i5 and i7 is negligible (+8% for i7), while I strongly suggest finding a model with the full 8GB of RAM, as this is not upgradeable and will likely be the first reason to replace an aging model. The SSD can be changed, and aftermarket upgrades are available, but SSDs are expensive, so finding one with your desired capacity isn't a bad idea either.

You could always carefully sever the second connector so you don't have to buy anything at all...

The EPS connector is physically keyed differently and should not even fit into a GPU power port... perhaps the label is simply wrong.

In similar situations I recommend using a flash drive with a physical read only switch such as: https://www.amazon.com/Kanguru-Flash-Physical-Protect-switch/dp/B008OGNM8E If your trust level is particularly low you can even crack it open and remove the plastic switch so the pin can only be switched with a toothpick or needle.

Would one of these work? https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Sleeved-8-Pin-550mm-PP06B-PCIE55/dp/B00A45JA52

My first place to look is at the WINDIR/WinSxS directory. This directory stores downloaded windows update packages and the space accumulates overtime. Use the built-in disk cleaner's 'Advanced' function to reduce the size.

Do you mean counterfeit as in reporting capacity that doesn't actually exist? Or testing for poor speed?