Igor Vasily

I have an AsRock Z490 Phantom Gaming 4 (yeah, I know, terrible VRMs, did not know this when I bought the mobo) with an I5 10400F. In HWINFO64 I noticed that the AUXTIN1 temps are quite high (around 103C most of the time). Searched through the internet and found out this is not a problem since the sensors are most likely reading the temps wrong. However, I noticed that the temps go down (they gone to 94C) instead of up when the PC is under load (the attached screenshot is after 50m of playing World of Tanks and leaving it to cool down for 30m). Does anyone have a clue why it does that?

Hello everyone! Recently I thought about trying a different approach to gaming, especially trying to play some games on my TV but without buying a console. Since I have a laptop, I though to connect the laptop to the TV, but it needs so many cables to run properly without any lag (PSU/HDMI/Needing to have a mouse + keyboard to operate it from distance). But, here comes my idea. I know GeForce Now costs around 5-6 euros per month and you can play your games that already own on steam (mostly). Still, they have over 400 games on it, so chances are your favourite games are there (check before buying of course). Now, GeForce Now can be played over your smartphone and also supports XBOX One Controllers (that luckly, you can connect them to your smartphone). Let's say you already own a medium range smartphone and can play on in using GeForce Now (and a stable internet connection, preferably Wi-Fi). Now, you want to connect it to a TV. You can either use an adapter (if you're lucky enough that your phone to support the feature) OR use Google Chromecast 3 and share the screen to your TV. Would this be possible with minimal latency? I know that GFN will have a little latency already being streamed over the internet, but using this method will result into a pleasant gaming experience or just a frustrating one? Let me know what you think!

Alright, so I always monitor my temperatures using MSI Afterburner with Rivatune. Temps never goes above 77C, also this is a mobile chip, but not a MaxQ model. The CPU is an Intel Core I7 7700HQ at 2.8Ghz base clock speed, but always stays in turbo at 3.4Ghz. This issue was happening like one year ago I guess when I first saw it. However, it never bothered me so much. Frametimes are consistent, between 16-20ms at 60+ Fps. The video I have made in this post has no overclocking applied on the GPU. Usually I keep the GPU overclocked at +500Mhz Memory and +100Mhz on Core Clock, which is weird because the issue seems to be less noticeable when the overclocking the card. In games is very very hard to notice, but in Superposition is incredibly noticeable. Hopefully the GPU is not faulty since I don't have warranty anymore on this laptop (expired last year). I tried to search the internet for this issue and found nothing about it. Hopefully I'm not the first to encounter this and to be a new problem in GPUs.

What are your temperatures under load? I'm assuming these 120 degrees are Fahrenheit, since at Celsius the laptop would basically turn off immediatelly. For a laptop, these temps are good for me.

Hello everybody! I noticed something strange while I was playing casually my games (GTA V, Division 2) through my MSI Afterburner OSD. The Core Clock of my GTX 1060 was fluctuating a lot recently. Took it into Unigine Superposition to see what are the results after a benchmark. But right after I was benchmarking the GPU noticed the Core Clock frequency started fluctuating like hell. Does anyone know what this problem might be? And how to fix it? It also looks like the benchmark lags at every 0.5s for a couple of miliseconds, like it's slowing down, but then goes up again. The Min FPS from the benchmark doesn't seem to catch it, but it feels like the FPS is also fluctuating a lot. Here is a video I uploaded on YouTube to see clearly what I mean. You can see the Core Clock Freq in the right upper corner of the screen. I suggest using Full Screen mode, sorry for the mediocre quality. Link to the video: Can somebody help me in advantage?

Got them from a local store, they import all their stuff. The thermal pads (regular ones) that I used come from the EK Heatsinks for NVMe M.2 SSD (they are 0.5mm thick, perfectly for my chipset) and the thermal adhesive pad is from AlphaCool, another known brand. These are their full names btw for more info: EK-M.2 NVMe Heatsink - Black (i don't think the color does matter) and Alphacool Thermal Adhesive Pad 30x30mm.

I'm not actually recommending this, but the best for a laptop (and desktops) is the Liquid Metal. I don't recommend it because you really need to know what you're doing when applying it and it is electrically conductive, so if you put too much and it spills over the electric parts of your laptop, it will mostly cause irreversible damage. I used Arctic MX-4 in most laptops and it does the job really well. Kryonaut it's also very good, along with IC Diamond.

Hey there CheeseSandwich! Have you reinstalled Windows 10? My suggestion would be to first try it in safe mode and see what changes can cause the BSOD. I had a BSOD this month that drove me nuts, but for my sake, I made a new bootable USB device with the newest Windows 10 version right off their website. I too tried everything to get rid of the BSOD before installing the OS again. Seemed that the problem was the OS itself. I don't really know if the image from the previous USB got corrupted (yes, I installed Windows twice. Once with the old OS image on the USB Stick, second with the new one) but surprise, the BSOD was gone for some reason. So, you might want to consider this, or repaste the CPU/GPU and check to have a good airflow in the case. Every small thing that might seems too little to count can be the problem to anything, even if it's not related sometimes. Cheers!

Hello everyone! I don't really know if I post this in the right section, so correct me if I do it wrong. So, recently I was worrying about my PCH/Chipset temperature in my Legion Y720. Maximum it reached was 93C and the chipset itself when I opened the backplate of the laptop it seemed that it didn't have a heatsink attached to it. Basically it was left open to cool like an M.2 NVMe SSD without a heatsink attached to it. What I decided was to buy a full sized motherboard chipset (38x38mm) and cut it using an electric pendular saw to fit on my chipset (30x30mm). Easily said, but the problem was the following: Upon cutting the heatsink (yes, I was aware to not leave any metal part hanging or touching any electrical parts) the thermal adhesive pad was damaged and no longer able to be used on the chipset. Fortunately, I thought about this before ordering the heatsink and I also bought some thermal pads (0.5mm it seemed to fit perfectly) along with a new thermal adhesive pad to put on the heatsink itself, so it will not move inside the case. I put two little regular thermal pads (these are not adhesive, so they will not hold the chipset in place) near the chipset die to cover a bigger area of cooling, attached the thermal adhesive pad on the heatsink, put the heatsink on the chipset and made sure it was making contact with the die and stuck on the motherboard without touching anything that might have electrical contact. The heatsink itself was a little bigger than the space in the case, so the backplate will also put a little pressure on it to not slip anywhere. Put the screws back, fired up the system, and voila! The system was working as expected, temps dropped (idle temps was around 65-70C, now they are 50-55C, lowest was 47C), but now I have another problem that I hadn't found the answer to it: Those thermal pads (both adhesive and regular), what is their maximum operating temperature? I don't want to suddenly my laptop catch fire because I was stupid and didn't thought that a big temperature can set them on fire. I doubt they will, but now I'm a little paranoid. So I'm asking the community what do you think? Should I remove it and leave it as it is? Is there any chance for the thermal pads to catch fire? What should I do?

Hello dear community and Linus! I was recently watching Linus new video about the new Gigabyte Aorus laptop with 10th gen I7 and RTX 2070 Super when Linus stated something like "This is the first time in history that the mobile GPUs will have a full x16 lane instead of x8 to play with" showing on video the following screenshot from GPU-Z The Video with the time stamp at the moment of showing the GPU-Z screenshot. Then, I was wondering if I remembered wrong what I've seen in my GPU-Z regarding my own GTX 1060 (Not Max-Q) in my Lenovo Legion Y720. I have this laptop from 2016. So, I was checking if my GPU really has x8 interface instead of x16 and surprise, it didn't. It has x16 interface. Double checked in HWINFO64 to be sure, still x16. So, now comes the question: Did Linus stated something wrong in the video (It's okay, everybody makes mistakes) or do I have a special kind of laptop that I was not aware of? Thanks!

Thanks! Good to know that other people thought about this idea and turned out that is not as effective as it looks on paper.

I used the MSI Afterburner to monitor the temps and clocks in real-time. Also HWInfo64 to see the maximum after exiting the games. Only the AC odyssey is killing my laptop in temp reaching 80C maximum. Others don't really get even at 75C.

Hi! First time posting here! Lemme get straight to the point. So, I have a Lenovo Legion Y720, I7 7700HQ, GTX 1060 6Gb Non-MaxQ and cooled with Liquid Metal. I have overclocked the GPU to 100/500Mhz Core/Memory Clock and got a 12% increase in performane. The temps are fine, maximum was 80C(just peak, average was 72C) on both GPU and CPU and that was on that poorly optimised AC Odyssey with Very High Preset. Considering that I still got room for overclocking further, I decided to do it. One problem: Even if I set the core clocks at 200Mhz for example, with the RivaTune Statistics and Afterburner will not get over 1900Mhz which was already maximum core clock with 100Mhz overclock. Now comes the question: Is my GPU power throttling? (If it's called like that) and what can I do to get rid of it to increase the core clocks more. And I thought of getting a more powerful charging brick (mine is 20V 170W) from Y920 (which has 20V 230W) and disconnect the battery from the laptop so I won't damage it. It should work or I am just talking BS with this idea? Thanks!

Hi everyone! Since I got my new Legion Y720, I wanted to undervolt my CPU for better temps. Now, I have encountered some problems and I want to know: What does Processor IccMax does? Is it safe to rise it or it could kill my CPU/Motherboard? What does Cache and Graphics IccMax too? Again, does rising them hurt my CPU/Motherboard? And finally, what is with System Agent IccMax? Again, the same question about rising and killing my CPU or Motherboard. I'm really confused and I want to run my laptop cooler and faster. Thanks in advance!

Thanks! I'm used to apply thermal paste. I previously had a custom built PC and an Acer Aspire E1-531G which needed to be reapplied the paste. Being an Acer and not a new one, it is a nightmare to dissassembly it. With this laptop, I will send it to waranty first to not lose it and hopefully they will repair it so I will have waranty for the next 2 years.