Weak1ings

Any idea what those ruler drives cost? Seems like a much better idea than this. (not that I was ever actually considering this lol)

Definitely, especially power on the correct rails! I imagine someone could ad-hoc a mid tower to fit two psus easily enough, but a server chassis is much better here. This is well past the practical point of using a server chassis, I think all of this would best fit inside a 3U case that has 9 5.25 inch bays as well, 2U if the user does not need hotswapping but that's makes maintaining 144 drives annoying. One of the best parts of all of this is the flexibility 5.25 inch bays offer this kind of setup! Getting to turn any case into a readily accessible hot-swappable server could be a pretty powerful feature, making dedicated nas cases like the excellent Jonsbo N2 or N3 less attractive. At the previously mentioned rate, that is 96 TB per 5.25 inch bay using today's drives, imagining what the future holds is really exciting for this.

I've been thinking about building a NAS build and in my research I encountered this product: ICY DOCK 24 bay 2.5 inch hot swap to 3x 5.25 inch bay ($~800) This is intriguing; in the same space that I could fit five 3.5" hard drives with some products, this fits 24 2.5" drives, this is half a magnitude higher in density! Going a step further, any standard mid tower case with 9 5.25 inch bays could fit three of these, this makes the case capable of holding 72 2.5 inch drives! This is utter madness! (example case: Old Antec 900, though I'm sure newer ones exist.) Using the Samsung 870 QVO 8TB 2.5 inch model would grant roughly 576TB of storage, costing ~$25,200. ($349.99 on amazon) This is a huge amount of money, but it appears to be pretty fair for SSDs. But it's not done yet! 144 drives might be achievable by using 72 dual m.2 to 2.5 inch adapters like this one: StarTech.com S322M225R M.2 to SATA Adapter - Dual Slot this would allow for a petabyte to be stored. At present on PcPart Picker, the cheapest m.2 2280 8TB drive costs $759.00 a piece. This means that you could get a petabyte of storage inside of a mid-tower case for the mere cost of $109,296 in storage. A similar drive, the MP600 PRO NH states 10.9 Watts on its webpage, so the power budget would be 1,596.6 Watts, plus overhead from all other components. This is probably the hardest to accommodate part. Overall, the system would require: 24 SAS ports 2000 Watt PSU (guessing on overhead) 144 8TB M.2 drives Mid Tower Case A budget of $120,000 (rough estimate) To get: 1,152 TB of storage maximum. What do you think of this? It seems like it could work and with the power issue resolved it might be a really interesting video! Edit: I realized a much cheaper option exists here, this is not SAS which could make it pretty difficult to troubleshoot cable issues. Athena Power BP-15827SAC

Just so you know I have already bought all of these things, most at different times, I'll address each comment though: CPU cooler, Honestly I didn't check others but I chose it because I'm confident that Noctua will support this thing in the future too, I currently use a Cryorig H5 Ultimate and apparently the company is gone? Their support never responded and a lot of products are incorrectly priced for what they are (as if they are not being produced?) For anyone reading this, there are a ton of great options out there indeed! Please check them out. RAM: Yup, DDR4 is the better value; I chose DDR5 because I intend to keep this build as long as I kept my 4790k, maybe things will use the higher bandwidth someday? It's impossible to know for sure and DDR4 is a solid choice. As far as speed goes, I wanted a slightly faster kit with similar cost to the cheaper kits, but DDR4 is still half the price so it's very difficult to recommend DDR5 generally. GPU: I've had this since January, and your recommendation is very good for people looking to buy one! For my case I expect to probably upgrade to a RTX 5070 or similar, which obviously doesn't exist yet, this build is a CPU upgrade! SSD: I wanted to upgrade from a dram-less Intel 660p QLC which very easily bogs down to 140 MBps, (though still has higher bursts) This seemed good but and I really wanted to try "the fast stuff." Your recommendation is good for other, cheaper drives. Just please get one with decent cache! Case: Good to know, ease of building is probably the only practical reason (and GPU compatibility) to have upgraded from the old Antec 900 this i7 build was originally in, I imagine everyone has a different upgrade cycle so here's mine: Q6600 -> SSD -> 4790k -> GTX 660 -> EVGA G2 -> GTX 660 SLI -> MasterCase Pro 5 -> GTX 1070 -> 32 GB RAM (since it was ceasing to be sold) -> 660p M.2 drive -> RTX 3070 ti -> the above build. Obviously over many years, hope you find this interesting!

I've been torn about this for a while and need some outside input, so here's the build I am building: Background: Upgrading from a 4790k, 32GB RAM, same GPU, to: i7 13700k NH-D15 Chromax MSI Z690 Pro Motherboard 32 GB 5600 DDR5 RTX 3070 Ti WD Black SN 850X 2TB Intel 660p 2 TB (previous primary drive) Master Case Pro 5 (is there any practical reason to change cases if size is no issue?) The Question: These are the power supplies I could use (and already own): EVGA G2 850W I've had for 7 years EVGA G5 750W I got from a newegg shuffle Should I use the new Power supply or the old one and why? I am currently leaning towards using the old one because it should continue to be a solid unit, has 3 years warranty, and the extra wattage is nice. It's possible that under an average load the fan on it won't even have to spin up too, though my new parts are going to push it harder than my previous ones.

Since you already have a 1440p display, I suggest going for a 4k 144Hz monitor, there are plenty of sub 32 inch models out there and you likely will be able to benefit from it using tech like DLSS 2.0 or playing older games. If that price range is too much, waiting is also a win-win as their prices should go down over time. I just don't think it would be worthwhile to get another 1440p. I have seen some good deals like that Gigabyte OLED 48" for $800, that's rather large for my tastes so there are also models like the Gigabyte M32U which sold for $600 a few months ago, (almost bought it myself) But with newer models coming in the next one or two years you're most likely to benefit from much enhanced backlight dimming tech as units like the M32U have a outrageously bad zone count of "around 16." Still better than edge lit I guess... Of course there are more expensive models out there which should do great.

After more testing of the cheaper device, I've noticed that while display response time fluctuates, it tends to settle down to the 20 & 25 ms range, which is acceptable if I used the 50Mbps limit. Pretty happy with the device and I'd regard it as having better quality than my Samsung TV, albeit it has no ethernet port at all!

If that is your target, that's a definite yes and you'll find a large improvement from upgrading the CPU & GPU however, It'll be hard to find a better GPU and you're kinda stuck right now.

I have been testing the device I mentioned and here are my thoughts on it: The Ematic 4K Ultra HD is actually rather nice and can do steam link at speeds of up to 80-100 Mbit/s,giving me a good image and the rest of the device seems pretty nice but it is my first android tv box so any comparison is futile beyond stating that it is fast and good enough but the last security patch was done in 2019, leading me to suspect it won't be further updated which is unfortunate. I've noticed that steam link likes to crash on the device in situations where its "not being used" so if you switched to another app or something, expect to have to close and restart the app but once you have started streaming it can sustain good quality for your entire session. So for my case this means full 1080p 60 FPS video with decent input latency but its still a little worse. Something Weird: Image above is captured at different points in different games, mainly to show input latency, Case 1 is GTA 5 and Case 2 is Grid 2. Both had very smooth performance without artifacting and GRID tended to go up to between 80 and 100 Mbps, greater than GTA which was smooth until it hit the 95 mbps mark at which point it produced a spike. I've noticed that as the bitrate goes up, the input latency also increases, even at 60 FPS with minimal frame loss. The image looks good but you lose out on response times. Is this common to all steam streaming and present on other devices like laptops and Nvidia's shield? Host PC: CPU: i7 4790K RAM: 32GB 1866 GPU: RX 480 8GB using software encoder (You must disable AMD's hardware encoder in steam options or streaming will fail in 98% of all cases.) SSD: NVME 2TB Intel 660p

I've been looking online for some device that can do these things: Stream platform like Disney+, Netflix, Amazon... Has USB ports Has an Ethernet Jack Stream using the Steam Link App at 1080p 60 fps, say 30-70 Mbit/s The obvious choice is the Nvidia Shield TV 4K but at $200 there has to be something cheaper available, and that's what I'm trying to find! I'm considering buying a device like this: https://www.amazon.com/4K-Ultra-HD-Android-Box/dp/B07NGKQB88/ref=sr_1_1?tag=at88-20&dchild=1&keywords=Ematic Jetstream&qid=1600753482&sr=8-1&geniuslink=true My biggest concern with this is whether the hardware is enough to run steam link smoothly. There seems to be practically no information or comparison among various devices and hardware schemes aside from the odd Reddit post saying "Nvidia shield works best." Does anyone know about this subject and how has your experience using Steam link on a dedicated Android TV stick/box been?

Wait, how does a case short your parts? No standoffs?

That's what I feared, how many coats are usually there and in the case of the mouse you used, did any annoying ridges appear as a result of removing the rubber? (I mean mostly along the corners where the rubber & "normally visible" plastic form a seam. I'd love to see a picture of how it worked!

I've been using the MX Ergo for about 3-4 years now (since it launched) and the soft rubber has deformed as per the image, (oils and stuff) Is there something I can do to partially restore and prevent further wear on it? What would you guys recommend? Here's what I tried: Rubbing alcohol with a paper towel and gently rubbing the afflicted areas, the result was it got better but only because I wound up removing small bits of the first layer of the rubber, revealing a lower layer.

I recently upgraded from windows 7 to window 10 but I've encountered a pretty annoying issue: 3D applications become limited to 60 FPS if I mirror any of my displays to my 4K TV. How does Windows 10 handle displays compared to Windows 7 and is there a way to get my monitor to run 3D applications at a unlocked framerate? I think the main issue is that this cases a framerate cap but I don't have a underlying knowledge on how to remove the cap in this situation. There's gotta be some kind of windows 10 setting that causes this issue. I've disabled the frame caps and Vsync in Nvidia control panel and Nvidia inspector and can verify that if I set all displays to to either "extend desktop" or disabled, the frame cap disappeared. But when anything is mirrored this 60FPS cap returns. My monitors maintain their refresh rates (in windows settings) If I disable mirroring the frame cap goes away Monitor setup: Where: 1 is a 144Hz 1080p monitor (main) 2 & 3 are 60 Hz 1080p monitors, generic 4 is a 4K 60Hz Smart TV My setup: GTX 1070 GPU i7 4790K 4.0 Ghz 32 GB RAM 4 displays (including 1 TV for couch games) If there's any more information that I could provide to help let me know, I need suggestions though! thanks

What is the best articulating monitor arm? I will be using them for a triple monitor setup soon. Requirements: Desk mounted Move up and down and at least adjustable side to side Tilting The current one I am looking at is this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BBHJK86/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?pd_rd_i=B07BBHJK86&pd_rd_wg=MFa0C&pd_rd_r=27T3MR5V7SVW5ZHHRSR4&pd_rd_w=6qShC&th=1 It seems like a good choice but its review are limited, I'd like to make sure what I do buy is going to be good in the long-run.