CastleCrusher

Yeah, that might be helpful. I plan on using it for a budget gaming PC. I know I'm going to use a second gen i5 with a repurposed Optiplex motherboard. I'm not entirely sure about the graphics card but I'm thinking about using an R9 380 I recently got though I may use an RX 470/570 or 570/580.

I'd be paying like a little under $30 bucks for it. Even then I think I'd be better off getting something from EVGA B-Stock.

I'm about to pull the trigger on a 600 watt FSP 600-80EPN power supply, but I'm wondering if it's a good option. The specifications seem to be promising for a 600 watt power supply and I know FSP makes some really solid units. I'm not sure of the quality of the components that are inside, but everything on paper seems to checkout. Should I reconsider or am I good to purchase a few of these? Thanks

Yeah, not a lot of games run very well with it though that can be due to other things too. My personal favorite game, After Burner Climax, runs perfectly with minimal performance issues. For the short time I played it on an actual PS3, it feels almost the same. I haven't cared enough to mess around with other titles, but that game runs really well even on less powerful hardware. I played it on my 2200G once.

Idk what your style is, but I like the look of the DLM21 from darkFlash. I've never built in it personally, but it looks to have decent airflow and decent enough build quality.

It's an FSP FSP250-30AGBAA Rev. 1. I can attach a picture if needed.

Gotcha. I just didn't want to get something else if I didn't need to but looks like this isn't worth my time. Thanks!

The only adapters I've been able find are to convert the motherboard connecter to be used with a standard ATX power supply, not the other way around.

It was my understanding that FSP power supplies are okay in quality but maybe I'm wrong?

So I recently upgraded a Lenovo Ideacentre 700-25ISH, and I'm left with a 250 watt FSP power supply. It uses only two cables, a proprietary 10-pin for the Lenovo motherboard and a 4-pin EPS cable. I'm wanting to use it to power an external graphics card. There's adapters for the Lenovo motherboard but not the other way around. I'm not sure of what riser I'm going to use for the finished product, but for now I'm wanting to convert the two cables to a 6 or 8-pin connector(s). I'm assuming that both cables can handle enough current to be able to use at least most of the power supply. Other than cable splicing and a bit of soldering, how would I go about making something like this work? Thanks

Yeah, I replied right after that was posted. Other than being one of the last motherboards made by Intel, nothing much really. No support for V2 chips, a pretty basic looking yet functional BIOS, no Windows 10 support (most boards supported W10 back then if I'm not mistaken), and this being one of the "cheaper" of the 3 Intel released, it doesn't even have a USB 3.0 header.

That's debatable I guess, really there's nothing special about it as a motherboard. Intel doesn't make motherboards anymore and its an X79 board that can overclock cheap Xeons so it offers a lot of value. X79 and X58 boards are hard to find and they're highly desirable.

One of the "lower end" of Intel's X79 boards, the DX79TO. These boards are pretty nice overall in build and are kinda harder to find, but from experience, I'd be wary of using it in a computer for daily use though. I have the nicer of the three boards released by Intel-the DX79SR-and my experience has been rough. Most of my issues are probably due to my graphics card, but keep in mind that it doesn't technically support Windows 10. All official drivers (again, none for W10) have been pulled from Intel's website including BIOS ROMS. The biggest thing to keep in mind that it ONLY supports V1 Sandy Bridge CPUs Other than that, get an E5 1650, overclock it, and you have a pretty solid platform.

Welp, sometimes you can boot an existing install of Windows on an entirely different PC, but I guess it isn't playing nicely here. Your best bet is to either reinstall Windows on another drive than grab all your stuff from the old one, or go back to at least your old board, then backup your stuff and reinstall Windows with your new motherboard.

Ok, so I've seen this question asked quite a few times, but this isn't so much of a "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" situation. I bought an untested RX 580, found out it had a short which I wasn't familiar with, attempted to remove a mosfet but failed with a bunch of melted SMDs, but I got it off with a less intense heat gun and it's been working* ever since. The card does work but I'd like to replace some of the caps, the cursed mosfet, and what I'm assuming are the inductors so I can try to overclock and alleviate any instability. My friend removed the bulging caps that I had inflicted damage onto, along with a few inductors. I'm no professional mind you, but I'd say I'm capable of soldering on capacitors and the inductors (correct me if the SMDs with X's on them aren't inductors). Resoldering the mosfet may pose an issue, but anyway, where can I obtain the capacitors, inductors and other SMDs unique to my card? I'd assume capacitors are possible but I'm not sure about the others. There's a lot of burnt smaller caps scattered around, but I don't plan on messing with those. It's a 4GB XFX RX 580 GTS XXX. Thanks

Ah okay, thanks. I might try to just really commit to the whole Linux thing and create a partition on my secondary drive for Steam.

I'm just curious if I can change their default location like I would on Windows.

Alrighty, but what about all my other folders? And I would make a dedicated Linux Steam library but that'd be pushing my hard drive to it's storage limit. I experimented and played Gmod on Manjaro then I went into Windows and did the same (I did need to download an update of some sort) but it ran without any issue on both with all my mods and maps. So if I can try and save the space I'd rather use the same library though I'm sure I'd have to check the file integrity every now and then.

Ok, so I did a video on my channel recently and my plans were to try and switch to Linux, more specifically Manjaro KDE, to potentially replace Windows 10 as it's not supported on my motherboard. I created a 20 gigabyte partition for Manjaro but after customizing, I think I'll need some more space. I wanted to try out Steam but ran into a roadblock. How do I use my existing Windows 10 Steam library between both operating systems? With Windows I just create a Steam folder and I'm good to go but is it okay to manually dig around for my Secondary drive in Steam on Manjaro and select the folder? I successfully did so and it wanted to update the games which was expected but is this the proper and most efficient way to do this? I also planned on having my downloads, documents, etc folders download to my bigger drive like Windows 10 does but I can't just change the location like I could on Windows. I understand that not everything works the same so I don't want to cancel my plans just because I don't know how to work it. So, how would I go about using a dedicated partition on my SSD for Manjaro alongside Windows and use my secondary drive for saving files and using the same Steam library as Windows? If someone could instruct me on what to do or direct me in the right direction, that'd be great. Thanks

Do you have an OTG cable? You can try plugging in a mouse and reset everything that way if it gets detected.

Well right now I'm taking advantage of the heat gun to reflow the GPU on my 780 ti. While it's not the proper way to do it, if the card doesn't artifact when I finish putting it back together, I guess I won't be as disappointed.

Well all I know is that at least this isn't my biggest fail in repairing technology. Lol, who am I kidding.

Well I used some aluminum foil and basically covered up the whole card but I think I set it too hot anyways.

Ok so I'm not a professional when it comes to things like this but I digress. So I borrowed a heat gun from a friend of mine so I could remove a mosfet shorting out a cheap RX 580 I got. Unfortunately I didn't get the mosfet off on both high and low settings and it gets really hot so that's not the problem. While I'm considering giving up at this point, I think that even with my thin and seemingly unaffective foil shield, the inductors and a capacitor seem to have been tortured under the heat. Should I call it quits or are crooked inductors and lopsided capacitors a secret performance boosting mod? Again, I'm not a professional so some words of encouragement would be really nice right now. Anyways, thanks in advance.

So, as the title suggests, I've been thinking about 3D printing some case fans. I haven't seen much of this being done with bigger more typical 120 mm or 140 mm fans but I saw a video where someone printed the fan itself for a small 12 volt one and it was much quieter than the original one and it even seemed to perform better. So if I were to design and print the fan and it's frame and install the motor and everything else that's necessary, in theory I'd have a fan like any other? Thanks