SALEEN961

I'll probably wind up selling the 8700K and Z370 Maximus X Hero Wi-Fi, it looks like they both still have enough value to cover more than half the cost of this upgrade.

You would be correct, the 3080 and Z590 MB came as a kit, so I decided to buy a heavily discounted 10900K. Alder lake is a big jump forward, but at 1440P there shouldn't be a big difference between alder lake and comet lake. I honestly wouldn't even be upgrading my 8700K right now if Newegg didn't force me to buy a Z590 MB with the RTX3080, but since they did...

I recently got an Asus TUF RTX3080, Asus Z590-E, and a 10900K. Before swapping these parts into my current system I want to make sure my current EVGA 850W G3 power supply is up to the task. I used a few different PSU wattage calculators and I got results that were all over the place, some said 650W would be enough while others claimed I need a 1000W PSU. From what I've been able to gather, the RTX3080 I have should draw about 350W stock, and the 10900K could reach as high as 320W when overclocked. I'm sticking with air cooling so I probably won't be overclocking too much as want to keep my temps in check, but I don't want my PSU to be so borderline that it could be a limiting factor. Should I spend an extra $160-$320 on a new 1000W power supply, or should I stick with the EVGA 850W G3 that has been in my system and working without issue for the past 4 years?

What temperature is the GPU reporting? Obviously something is wrong but I'm wondering if improper fan control is your problem or if the fan is correcting reacting to a temperature issue.

If his old system is sandy bridge based then it was released 7 years ago, a 9900K might seem unnecessary now, but if he keeps this new system for the same amount of time it will almost certainly become necessary to have that many cores/threads at some point in time while he owns it depending on what his resolution and FPS expectations are. My only concern would be putting that CPU into a mini ITX board with a single 8 pin CPU power connector and arguably weak VRM. A different board with better CPU power delivery might let him overclock that CPU much further.

You may need to raise the VCCIO and System Agent voltages. Try putting them a 1.15V and see if it will handle all 4 sticks

A used GT1030 is probably your best option, just make sure you get a GDDR5 version and not a DDR4. I have a Asus GT1030-2G-CSM in my work PC and I've been very happy with it's performance. It greatly outperforms the GTX 550Ti it replaced and it only draws 30W compared to the 60W of a 750Ti. The performance is a little less than that of a 750Ti, but it seems like a better fit for what you're doing.

Well based on your log file I'd say that input voltage probably isn't your issue, 117V is perfectly acceptable and your log file isn't showing any fluctuation. I'd be interested to know what happens when you get a chance to run off of the generator for a longer amount of time. For what it's worth I was chasing down a stability problem that would cause my old PC to blue screen when running a specific piece of software (similar to skype) that doesn't even load the system and my issue was memory timings. After loosening my timings slightly I never had an issue again. To make things weirder my RAM never failed any stress test even when run for over 24hrs, but the program that gave me issues would always crash within an hour.

Yes, I don't personally own one so I can't speak to quality of any particular model, but that is what I was referring to. I personally use others methods that are best left to electricians and people with a strong electrical background. As another person pointed most of them don't have logging capability, but logging on your PC which keeps shutting down may not give you an answer either depending on whether or not the log saves the event that caused the crash, although I will admit that trying this is a very good idea because if the log does show an issue you'll know the answer without buying anything. In either case if the issue is your wall voltage you shouldn't really need to know what happened when it crashed because you should either see excessive voltage drop under load indicating a problem or proper voltage. You wouldn't need to wait for the crash to know that the voltage is already lower than it should be. A random intermittent voltage drop that only affects your PC would be pretty uncommon, but a brown out that affects you whole house wouldn't be, although I'm sure you would have figured out if that was the issue as all your lights would dim when the issue occurred. Your specific PSU is rated to work with an input voltage of 100V-240V, assuming you are using a 120V outlet your voltage with no load should be very close to that 120V rating, if you put a full load on the system and see your wall voltage dropping down to 105V I'm willing to bet that that is your problem, if your voltage stays up around 115V then the wall voltage likely isn't your issue. You might find that you drop to 105V when gaming and that you are ok until something else in your house turns on like a sump pump or a vacuum that briefly pulls that voltage down below the 100V minimum input voltage for your PSU. In the house I was living in the issue was the main connections in the breaker panel so loads on different circuits caused excessive voltage drop across every circuit in the house regardless of what breaker they were on because they were all fed by the same main connections.

I bought a new ASUS ZenFone Max Plus ZB570TL for $211 when upgrading from a very durable flip phone. I'm ok with used hardware, but old batteries just aren't worth the problems they cause when they aren't "replaceable". I don't really like using a phone for much more than making calls, texting, getting quick directions, doing a quick google search, or playing music in my truck; anything more than that and I'd rather be using a desktop. I like the convenience that smartphones offer when out and about, but the only thing they offer over a laptop or desktop is portability and phone functionality, in every other aspect a real computer delivers a better experience in my opinion so I don't care about the extra bells and whistles that a more expensive phone offers.

Not getting enough voltage from the wall is rare, but it does happen, typically this is caused by a bad connection somewhere causing the voltage to drop too low when the circuit is under load. This can be verified by measuring the voltage at the outlet with nothing plugged in and then again with a large load like your PC or a vacuum running. Ideally you won't have any loss of voltage, in the real world where builders skimp on wiring a 5% drop from the service disconnect to the outlet isn't unreasonable. I've had to fix issues like this before where I had 120V at my service disconnect, only 110V at my outlets without a load, and load voltages that were even lower that not all computer controlled devices will tolerate. I found loose connections in the main breaker panel that were the cause of my issue. Using something like a Kill-a-watt type device that will let you monitor the input voltage and system power draw on the same outlet socket you are using to power your PC would be a good place to start.

Are you sure your cooler is properly seated and your thermal paste application is good? I'm getting lower temps than you with my 8700K at 4.5GHz and 1.20V using a Hyper 212

To add a little info, the issue does not seem to occur when playing games or navigating through game menus.

Hello everyone, I bought a set of 2.1 speakers for my wife that I would like to leave plugged into her monitor so that they will play audio from both the HDMI and DP inputs without having to swap the audio cable from one PC to the next as she switches videos inputs. Unfortunately I found that when I have the speakers plugged into the monitor with her desktop as the active input for the monitor (ATI HDMI audio source) there is a loud crackling noise every time you pause a video. This does not occur when her laptop is connected to the monitor using the same HDMI cable so the issue seems to be with her desktop and not the monitor, the cable, or the speakers. This also does not occur if I use the Realtek audio device and plug the audio cable into either the front or back panel audio ports. Her desktop (retro gaming desktop) is running Windows XP 32-bit, the HDMI audio output device is a HIS HD4670, and the onboard audio device that isn't being used is a Realtek ALC887. All the drivers are the most current ones available. Can anyone offer me some tips or tricks for getting rid of this annoying crackling?

Just make sure there won't be any import taxes that you'll have to pay when your package hits customs, I'm not sure how the price can be that different if Amazons estimated taxes are accurate.

Yeah it is kind of tricky in this case, without a basement or a lot of room behind the motherboard tray it was a little tricky to hide everything, the front fan cables are probably the worst thing to deal with, there's just no where to put them other than out in the open. Overall I am very happy with the build quality of the case, it didn't fall short of any of my expectations.

I just finished building my wife's new gaming PC for a grand total of $216.23, the most expensive part was the case because she wanted it to be pretty, and the second most expensive part was the new PSU, because I didn't want to deal with troubleshooting old hardware running on an old PSU. The system is running XP 32-bit and after tinkering for about a week I have my overclocks pretty much dialed in. The 3GHz 800MHz FSB Pentium E5700 has been overclocked to 3.45GHz with a 1200MHz FSB which isn't bad to the G41 chipset. The ram is actually underclocked to 1200MHz with super tight timings and I really liking the performance of 1200MHz CL6 compared to the 1333MHz CL9 the DIMM defaults to even if this is pretty slow for DDR3. So far it's running all the games it was built to run maxed out and never dropping below 60FPS so overall we're pretty happy. Let me know what you guys think of this retro build in a modern case. BUILD SHEET: $41.99 Asus P5G41T-M LX Plus Motherboard $63.59 EVGA Supernova 550W G3 PSU $24.37 Inland 120GB SATA SSD $63.58 Fractal Design Focus G Mini Black Case $12.71 SATA to 3 x 4-Pin PWM Sleeved Fan Power Adapter Cable $ 9.99 Asus Wireless PCE-N13 Wireless Network Card FREE Intel Stock Cooler FREE HIS 1GB HD4670 GPU FREE 2GB Kingston DDR3 1333Mhz FREE Pentium E5700 FREE CDRW Drive FREE Corsair SP120 Fans (left overs from other builds)

You said RAM usage is below 40% when this happens, is this the amount that is in use or the amount that is in use, modified, and in standby added up? What I've found is that the amount of RAM in use doesn't really matter, how much RAM you have that is labeled as free is what matters. For example right now of the 32GB of RAM I have installed 7916MB is in use, but only 12106MB is free, the extra 12502MB is modified or in standby. When my free RAM would get down to a couple hundred MB I experienced massive slow downs, this was my reason for upgrading to 32GB, with 16GB I experienced these slow downs fairly often despite never having anywhere near the full 16GB labeled as being in use.

I tried to get the game working on windows 10 for a while, but in the end I just wound up running it on an XP machine. For what it's worth the game runs at much higher FPS on an old AMD HD4670 or HD5770 than it did on the GTX 650Ti I had lying around despite the GTX 650Ti being over 300% better in most benchmarks I could find. If you want to have a playable game experience older AMD cards seem to work much better, the newer ones might work okay, but I can't personally attest to that, what I can say is that newer NVIDIA cards don't play nice with NFSHP2. If you decide to run the game on an XP machine, then I strongly recommend using an AMD gpu, the drivers and adjustable settings within the catalyst control panel are much better.

This game can be very difficult to get working on newer versions of windows, only Windows 98,2000,ME, and XP are officially supported. Try running it in compatibility mode for one of those operating systems, and make sure you have DirectPlay enabled.

Asus, technically it can overclock to 1333 on one DIMM slot, but that's it, if you have anything over 1066 in the other slot it won't POST. When running 1333 only one slot can be used. I honestly thought the board was defective I until I read the manual lol.

Yep that's the Data Migration Software I use, it is free but you can only clone to a Samsung SSD with it, it will not work with other brands. Samsung is my preferred brand anyway, so this doesn't bother me much.

1066 DDR2 can be useful depending on what memory straps you have available when overclocking your CPU. I paid a little extra to get a brand I wanted in new condition, and I like the heatspreaders even if they don't do much. DDR3 1333 isn't compatible with every motherboard, some of the really early DDR3 motherboards require DDR3 1066, I know because I have one and it will not POST with 1333 RAM installed. If not for this I would absolutely spend less money to get faster RAM like you suggested.

I was using the Samsung Data Migration software, which I really like for cloning drives to a Samsung SSD, when cloning to something else where I can't use that software I use a Inland GDPD01T docking station with a built in cloning feature. For $30 it's a very good hard drive dock and cloning device, I've never had an issue with mine, just be sure to read the directions carefully, it's not something that you should use without reading them first.

I've cloned a lot of HDDs to SSDs, SSDs to HDDs, and SSDs to SSDs without ever having an issue, I wouldn't worry about it if you're using decent cloning hardware/software.