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TigzyGee

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Everything posted by TigzyGee

  1. Hi guys, ive got a question for you guys. My PC is currently running a Strix RX 580 O8G (Overclocked Edition) and i want to buy a 2nd Strix RX 580 for a crossfire setup, unfortunately all the one's ive found for sale in my area are the T8G (Top Overclocked Edition) versions. Ive read up that the Top version runs approx 51Mhz faster than the plain old OC version, would i still be able to run them in Crossfire? If i cant run them in Crossfire straight out of the box would i be able to slightly lower the Top version's Mhz down to match the speed of the OC version? Also i'd just like to add, ive a Firestrike test on my RX 580 O8G and my score seems abit strange, previously i was running a MSI R9 380 Gaming 4G Crossfire setup and the Firestrike score was 11740 where as my RX 580 scored 11229 (untouched straight out of the box) PC Specs are as follows: AsRock Z170 Pro4 i5 6600 Patriot PSD44G213381 2133 DDR4 2x4GB(8GB Total) Patriot Burst 128GB SSD Cooler Master GX Bronze 750w PSU Fractal Design Define R5 case with x5 mix/match fans (x2 120mm factory Fractal Design Fans from D-R5, x3 120mm factory Cooler Master fans from Mastercase Pro 5) Additional Info: This PC in question is just a spare i put together that i occasionally use, its mainly for guests to use when they come over so we can play games together, i thaught i'd upgrade it abit just for testing purposes. Thanks in advance to everybody who replies.
  2. TigzyGee

    Strix RX 580 T8G and O8G Crossfire?

    Thanks for the reply. I would have gone a 1080Ti but the problem is, i already have a 1080Ti in my main PC, this one is just a spare ive built up with cheap 2nd hand component's ive found for sale here and there and i wanted to stick with the AMD side of thing mainly for personal testing and comparisons between both AMD and Nvidia
  3. TigzyGee

    Strix RX 580 T8G and O8G Crossfire?

    Thanks for the quick reply, i didnt have much problem with running the R9 380's in crossfire, but if the RX 580 will put more stress on the system i dont mind getting a more powerful PSU for it. I just want to see how far i can push this PC with its 2nd handy components, it hasnt cost me too much to build, it owes me about $500 AUD at the moment, im even planning on getting a better CPU maybe even a different Mobo for it down the line. Its all just testing and mucking around for me just to keep my mind busy since im not working at the moment and cant work for quite a while due to a workplace injury (5 disks slipped in my lumbar spine causing pressure on my nerves and numbness down both legs)
  4. TigzyGee

    MSI R9 380 Gaming 4G randomly crashing desktop.

    Ohh i forgot to add, ive also got x2 GTX 980's from my main rig's old SLI setup, i was thinking i might pop one of them into this build instead of my R9 280X if i cant figure out whats wrong with my R9 380, but in honesty i'd prefer keeping this rig as a AMD build. Im so confused as to what my options are.
  5. Hi guys, im having problems with my Graphics card. As stated in the title, its a MSI R9 380 Gaming 4G, it was recently given to me by a friend of mine and since its been installed in my system its been nothing but headaches that im considering popping my Sapphire R9 280X Toxic card back in. Every now and then the entire keyboard/mouse/PC/Network will freeze up then my screen goes black for a split second before coming back to normal also when it happens i hear the "Ding, da da, ding" sound you get when you Add/Remove new hardware. Ive noticed the crashes happen when i start pushing the computer in games or graphic related benchmark's i get crashes. I thaught heat might be a problem, but the card doesnt go above 70c, and my CPU even though ive OC'd it above factory on a stock air cooler doesnt exceed 65c, so i really doubt that the GPU or CPU being overly hot has anything to do with my situation. Specs of my PC are as follows just incase it matters; MOBO: ASRock FM2A68M-HD+ CPU: AMD A10-7890K (OC to 4.5GHz) RAM: Corsair 2x4GB LP 1600MHz DDR3 GPU: MSI R9 380 Gaming 4G (Previously Sapphire R9 280X Toxic OC, which never had problems) PSU: Cooler Master GX 750W 80+ Bronze STORAGE: Corsair Force GT 60GB SSD WD Black 1TB 7200 RPM HDD Hitachi 120GB HDD (Formerly out of a Fat XBox 360 Elite) CASE: Fractal Design Define R5 COOLING: Stock AMD Wraith Cooler (New Wraith which came with 7890K) x3 140mm Cooler Master Fans (formerly out of my Main PC's MasterCase Pro 5 Tower) x2 140mm Fractal Design Fans (came with this PC's case) OS: Windows 10 x64 Version 1709 (OS Build 16299.125 GRAPHICS DRIVER: Radeon 17.12.1 Adrenaline Any help you guys can provide me with will be greatly appreciated. Oh and just to add, this isn't my main rig, its just a spare i threw together as a spare for when friends come over to play on and i wont be going overboard with upgrading this, i'll leave the upgrades for my main rig.
  6. Your not wrong there, i really do need a new mobo to replace the Dell board, believe it or not but the cpu socket has like 6 bent pins and she's still working miraculously, plus i just had a new X3450 CPU i ordered from Ebay arrive today which i need to test out aswell, not to mention the old Xeon 5150's from my HP Server.
  7. Ive got a couple more results for you, first from an old Dell Vostro running an i7-860 and the 2nd from my HP Proliant DL380 G5 running x2 Xeon E5450's
  8. Actually the price i got my 3770 for was very cheap so i couldnt pass up the opportunity to buy it ($100 AUS - $79 USD), otherwise i was still quite happy to stick with my 3570 for a while.
  9. I just upgraded my old i5-3570 with a i7-3770, here's the Cinebench score's for the new setup.
  10. Here's the score for my system. Tonight she seems to be running abit slow however, previously i have gotten between 450 and 501cb scores, tonight shes sitting at 383 and the previous run before the one i took the screenshot of ran a 390
  11. Hi guys, first of all i just wanted to say im a new member here, but ive been looking at the forums for quite a while now and i just love how knowledgable everybody is on here. Anyway to my question, the other night while rummaging around the back of my shed i came across the random parts of my old AMD PC which i built around 2002 and nostalgia kicked in so i scrounged up everything i had sitting around unused from that era, found an old dusty case lying there aswell from another old PC from the same era and put everything together with a "fresh" copy of Win XP Home i found deep down in one of my old CD folders. Surprisingly for its age he runs pretty decently (with old school apps from the era ofcourse) for having not run for quite a number of years. He's now sitting proudly (though disconnected) in my computer room next to my other retro (though not quite as old) AMD PC and it's got me thinking, just for shits and giggles what if i did some janky "Mad Max'-esque mods to it. The first thaught in my mind was Watercooling, but i know that these systems being so old i either wont find or will have an extremely tough time finding watercooling parts for it, so i thaught option 2, make my own. With automotive mechanic's being another big hobby of mine apart from PC's, i began thinking about transmission oil coolers and found that my local spare parts place stocks quite a few of these http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Davies-Craig-Hydra-Cool-Transmission-Oil-Cooler-Universal-8-Cylinder/125648 after finding that i thaught about a pump and came across something i found interesting on Ebay [Link removed] Now with those 2 items i've found i began thinking what if i go with an oil cooling instead of watercooling, as in instead of water running through the radiator and pump, run oil instead. I know that transmission oil runs pretty hot, differential oil runs even hotter being in a closed loop system in the diff, and they are pretty thin oil compared to say engine oil (differential oil is actually thinner than transmission oil, it just stinks really bad), now my problem is i dont know if the oil will be too thick to run through a CPU block. Another thing that pops into my mind is that the pump is rated at 3 litres per minute, im not sure what kind of pressure actual watercooling pumps are running so i dont know if 3lpm will be enough for the system or if i would need a much larger pump. Also from looking at my motherboard it seems there are holes beside the cpu socket which seem to be designed for an aftermarket cooler, does anybody know what type of cpu block would be of a simmilar size/shape to fit on an old socket A cpu? Brackets wise i can easily whip something up myself but if i have to make a whole waterblock then that part is getting abit tricky. Anyways here's the specs of this PC which i have affectionately nicknamed "Grandpa" Motherboard - Asus A7N8X-X CPU - AMD Sempron 2400+ RAM - 512MB DDR-400 GPU - Nvidia Geforce FX 5500 HDD - Seagate 40GB IDE And here's a link to "Grandpa's" CPU-z validation (i'll post some pics up of him soon) http://valid.x86.fr/08xl0j
  12. TigzyGee

    Retro AMD watercooling ideas?

    Hmm reading what you said, you may be right and a heater core might be a better option. Actually thinking about it more, i think i may have an incabin aircon core (simmilar to a heater core) laying around the shed somewhere from when i was rebuilding my wrecked 180SX a few years ago, i'll have to take a look over the weekend and what else i may have lying around back there, if not i'll probably just head down to the local u-pull-it wreckers and grab one from there.
  13. TigzyGee

    Retro AMD watercooling ideas?

    Thanks for the input guys, i really appreciate it. I agree with revsilverspine about the boards being made out of old Nokia 3310's for something that i bought back in 2002 to have everything still working as intended is a total miracle, i was actually quite surprised when i first put it together a few weeks ago and she fired up first go. Now just to clear a few things up about running the oil through the system, the Davies Craig radiator i linked in my first post is actually designed to have oil running through it. Basically what it is is an upgrade for a car's "stock" transmission cooler. What car manufacturer's do with their automatic transmissions to keep the oil cool they run rubber hoses to the front of the car till it reaches an aluminium tube, the oil flows through the tube to the return hose and back to the radiator. This aluminium tube is what maufacturer's like to call a "Oil Cooler" when in reality its just a metal tube that loops back around on itself, the cooler i linked is supposed to go in place of that tube giving the oil a proper radiator th flow through, so im not worried about gunking and clogging up the radiator with oil, what i am worried about is the cpu block though, hence why i was thinking of using a thin oil such as transmission fluid or differential oil.(both oils are quite thin, much thinner than your regular engine oil). Ive done abit more searching around online and came across something interesting however, it appears back in the early 2000's Swiftech used to make copper waterblocks for the Socket A cpu's, they even bolted on using the same clip on method as the stock heatsink's thus making the 4 aftermarket cooler holes on my board useless, unless of course i can find one to begin with. The model number of the cpu block is MCW6000-A. Also in my research into this block i found out the fittings are 3/8", which when i looked at Davies Craig's website it appears that it also uses 3/8" barbs on it so it seems with some hoses, and clamps they will fit together quite nicely. (Davies Craig radiator's kit number is 678, radiator's part number is 0853, overall 281mm length/213mm width, core size 281mm length/184mm width). Going into this i knew being such an old system if i happened to find a cpu block that it would have been copper and with the aluminium radiator and running water we all know theres big complcations with galvanic corrosion with the mixture of different metals in the loop hence another reason why i was thinking of going the oil route but im not entirely sure wether or not corrosion would still occur with oil. The thermal pads on the cpu is a top idea though and i'll definately do this to mine to avoid shorting out the little resistor things next to the cpu die. Anyways as promised here's a couple of photo's of "Grandpa" in all his classic pc glory.
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