Cliptags

I can't seem to OC my 2080ti. I'm on a crosshair VIII Hero WiFi and a water colled 2080ti. When I go into Afterburner or Precision X1 thje OC scanners don't wortk (fails to scan) and voltage and power limit sliders are greyed out. Any one know whyt that would be? Thanks in advance!

Budget (including currency): £150 plus whatever I can get for my 1080 Country: UK Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: VR Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): I have an HTPC in my.living room that I use to host my Plex server. I also have now got a Quest 2 and a Oculus link cable so keen to play some VR but neither the 1080 or my Mobo have a USB-C for connecting the headset. Which card would you recommend upgrading to to allow for VR? I have a B450 Mobo with a Ryzen 2600x so power for the VR isn't a problem it's literally just the port. Unfortunately I also don't have any expansion for a PCI ISB C card. Any thoughts?

Fair, was a bit worried I'd not seated the block correctly or something but makes sense. As long as it doesnt get above like 70 (which is the highest I've seen so far) then I'm happy. Does yours go up under load like that? Or does it always sit around 50?

I watercooled my 3700X last night as can report I'm running silently! However, I've got a bit of weirdness with my temps. My 3700x is running at 57 degrees idle which seems really high to me. Especially when my 2080ti (on the same loop) is sitting at 29 degrees idle. Both don't go much when under load (CPU 60 degrees, GPU 36 max) but was wondering if anyone knows why the CPU would be so high at idle?

Ok, so anyone help with the latest in this saga? I got onto NVIDIA about this and got an RMA. In taking apart the loop I decided to try the card at stock. With the stock cooler on I’m not getting any problems to crashes. GPU is hitting higher temps on air (obviously) 82 vs 50 on water, but no crashes. Any reason people can think that my water cooling loop may be doing this? Could it be a problem with the block maybe?It appears that the pump is sending water round the loop because it’s not getting hot. Could it be something I’ve not plugged in on the card (the fans or something?!) that is making it crash under load? Really puzzled by this one!

ok, so further update. I just reduced the Power Limit on the card to 90% on EVGA Precision OC. Not getting crashes like I did before....what does that mean?? Can;t work out why that would be the case, my PSU was 1500w and currently is 1000w. Could a bad card do that?

Hey BalisticTorch, Thanks for the reply. So based on your post I had a thought, I ran TeamViewer on my laptop connected to my PC while gaming, the inference being that if it was a cable issue I would still have control when it died. Alas, not the case. It looks like it's a full system freeze/crash. I get the attached message on TeamViewer on the laptop so it's definitely freezing the entire system. I'm tempted to try one final RMA on the card just in case it's that (and I got unlucky twice) before I go for the processor/MoBo replacement (at 700-800 GBP cost!). Thoughts or other potential solutions? Appreciate your help! Cliptags

Thanks for the reply, all the cables are cablemod so I don't think it would be that, I could try the cables which came with the AX1000. Would prefer to not change the CPU/Mobo if possible

Hi, I've got a gaming PC which worked fine (though was unplayed for a while), I then got a 2080Ti when it came out (Founders edition) to replace my 1080 and now it will crash in games (Tomb Raider, Apex Legends). I'll be playing and the screen will just go black with no signal. The sound continues for a few seconds but then stops and I can't use TeamViewer to connect to it. I've checked temps and all seem to be fine. It only does it in games e.g. running Heaven or 3DMark doesn't crash the system. I returned the 2080ti and they replaced it with a new one, same problem. I've then done the following steps: - Updated GPU drivers - Reinstall of Windows 10 - Tried only certain RAM sticks in 16GB configurations - Changed the WC loop on the GPU. - Bought a new power supply as read it may be that (now on a non-digital PSU as thought it may have been multi-rail vs single rail problems) My next port of call is to change the MoBo/Processor but as this is going to cost c.800 GBP I thought I'd see here if anyone had any thoughts/other things I can try first. My specs are as follows: Operating System: Windows 10 Home 64-bit (10.0, Build 17763) (17763.rs5_release.180914-1434) BIOS: BIOS Date: 03/14/18 17:52:04 Ver: 05.0000C (type: BIOS) MOBO: ASUS ROG MAXIMUS IX Formula Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-7700K CPU @ 4.20GHz (8 CPUs), ~4.2GHz Memory: 32768MB RAM Corsair Vengeance RGB 32 GB (4 x 8 GB) DDR4 3466 MHz Available OS Memory: 32700MB RAM Page File: 7335MB used, 30227MB available GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti Founders Edition PSU: was CORSAIR AX1500i, now CORSAIR AX1000 Dual loop cooling one for CPU/MoBo and one for GPU. Any help would be appreciated!

That's exactly my plan when the 2080 or 1180 (or whatever it'll be called!) is released

haha yeah it is probably too big, but after having the rad mounted on the back of my previous case I wanted to go all out on size in this one

Wanted to share my latest build and track its upgrade process. I started with my old system which was housed in an old HAF X. I was running an old AMD FX 9370 which was watercooled by two 360mm (60mm thick) radiators (I previously had a AMD R9295X hence all the cooling power!). I was running 16GB RAM, and had recently upgraded to a GTX 1080 on air. Because of the size of the case I was mounting the second rad on the back of the case so I felt that an upgrade was in order to accommodate everything and to upgrade to an Intel Kaby Lake processor. So started a new build: Water cooling & lighting: Thermaltake 900 Tower (White) Monsoon 13/10mm (ID 3/8 OD 1/2) Free Center Compression - Red XSPC Ball Valve (Chrome) - Chrome for draining Phanteks Glacier C350I CPU Water Block Acrylic Cover RGB LED EK Water Blocks EK-Duraclear Tubing 13/10 Noctua 120mm fans from previous build Mayhems XT-1 Nuke UV Red Concentrate Coolant 100ml CableMod WideBeam magnetic Adhesive LED Strip UV - 60cm / 30 LEDs X2 Thermaltake Pacific PR15 Reservoir D5 Pump 2x Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 (2 but only one connected at the moment!) NZXT AC-SEN-MIX2-M1 6 channel Black Fan Speed Controller - 6 Channels System Specs: Corsair 1500Axi Rad/White Cablemod modflex cables ASUS LGA 1151 MAXIMUS IX FORMULA Intel Z270 ATX Motherboard - Black Intel i7 7700k Corsair CMR16GX4M2C3466C16 Vengeance RGB 16 GB (2x8GB) EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 SC GAMING ACX 3.0, 8GB SAMSUNG SSD 840evo 500GB TOSHIBA D10 1TB TOSHIBA MK1059GSM 500GB WD5000KS 1TB Overclocked to 4.8Gz stable A few notes: - First thing to say, this case was a joy to work in. Everything you see in the case is removable form the glass panels to every bit of metal so getting at hard to reach places is really easy. Similarly because it's so big and has pretty much half the case hidden cable management is really easy, especially for someone like me who historically wasn't great at it! - The PSU placement is a bit weird. Because the case is square it means that a PSU like mine goes all the way back/forward towards the front of the case so that means that you need to push the cables into the case and if you need to change anything you need to take the full PSU out. - The case is MASSIVE. Hopefully the picture next to my monitor shows how tall this this is, it also looks B-E-A-UTIFUL when it's all done! - Everything EXCEPT the Corsair RAM is Aura compatible which is awesome. I probably should have gone G-Skill for the RAM but there was none available when I started the build on Amazon. - I had a weird thing where the left RGB header always had the blue LEDs on which was strange. I ended up just using an RGB splitter for the right channel and that's worked fine for everything so far. Will see what it's like when I add one or two RGB GPU blocks as well! - Air cooling the GPU is a bit weird at the moment. I flipped both case fans to be intake and then make the Rad fans exhaust but will reconsider when I've got the extra 360mm RAD on the go. - I didn't realise how difficult it is to find a White fan controller capable of at least 6 fans (I expect to have 14 fans in total when I get the other rad done and get some more money to change the other rad to push/pull) so I just went with black in the end. Not great for the aesthetic but oh well! - The mounting for the Rads means that I had to remove the drive cage so can only use the 2x2.5" and 2x 3.5" bays in the front. This is fine for me for now but if I need to expand it means replacing a drive rather than adding and you'd have to have a smaller rad on one side if you wanted to go RAID with a lot more drives. - Once you put in the res/pumps they hide a lot of the cables behind them, this means routing for things like LED's is really easy to do. - The back IO is in the lid of the case so it means pulling off the lid (with some force!) every time you want to change everything and means that if it's on a desk like mine is you need slightly longer cables! - My MoBo only had 1 USB 3.0 front header so 2x/4 of the USB 3.0 front IO are unused. I don't have USB 3.1 which this MoBo does have so couldn't use that. Not been able to find a USB front header hub so if anyone knows of one please let me know as front IO is important because of the previous point! - I'm planning on changing out the single 1080 on air for dual versions of the high end Volta card (hopefully with RGB blocks!) so I'll update this when I've managed to do that if there is interest? So here are some pictures! I hope you like! And if you have any questions/comments let me know IMG_3712.mp4