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TRITIUMNITR0X

Member
  • Content Count

    51
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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About TRITIUMNITR0X

  • Title
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    United States

System

  • CPU
    Intel® Core™ i7-7700K
  • Motherboard
    Asus Prime Z270-AR
  • RAM
    Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 32GB (4 x 8GB / 3200MHz)
  • GPU
    AORUS GeForce® GTX 1080 Ti 11G
    AORUS GeForce® GTX 1080 Ti 11G
  • Case
    Thermaltake Tower 900
  • Storage
    Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB
  • PSU
    Corsair HX850i
  • Display(s)
    Asus ROG SWIFT PG27UQ
  • Cooling
    Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut applied to CPU/GPU
    (2x) EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Aorus - Nickel (rev. 2.0)
    EK-FB ASUS Z270/Z370 Strix RGB Monoblock - Nickel
    Thermaltake Pacific DIY LCS PR22-D5
    XSPC EX560 Radiator
    Mayhems X1 Coolant
    PETG Hardline Tubing
    EK Nickel Fittings / Connectors
  • Keyboard
    SteelSeries Apex Pro TKL
  • Mouse
    Logitech G502 Lightspeed
  • Sound
    SteelSeries Arctis 7 Pro Wireless
  • Operating System
    Windows 10
  • Laptop
    Asus ROG G703-XS71

Recent Profile Visitors

547 profile views
  1. I have an update! The XMP profile finally worked. After trying different settings / clearing CMOS over and over, it seems that flashing the BIOS opened a new avenue to allow the system to XMP more recent memory. In addition to the memory, I was also able to overclock the CPU to 5.0GHz and overclock both 1080Ti's in SLI, achieving a +25 FPS gain in Heaven Benchmark after all things were said and done. As an addendum, I should note that both before and after the BIOS flash, I was completely unable to manually overclock the memory, even with the recommended speed, timings and voltage given by the XMP profile. I suppose the XMP profiles contain much more intricate settings than previously assumed. I'd definitely consider this a success. Thanks @Super panda @aDoomGuy @Arika S for the help!
  2. As true as this is, I'm hard pressed to just leave a full 1.067 GHz on the table.
  3. Hey all, I seem to be out of luck with any attempt with an XMP overclock and I'd like to talk about a solution. The Problem For any attempted XMP overclock, my PC will sustain power (including all lighting, fans (default to full RPM), and the water pump) but it will not POST. It will hang with a black screen. Attempts to reboot warm will give the same result, while cold reboot achieves POST with the option for F1 Setup to BIOS. Please also note: A stable non-XMP CPU overclock past 5.0 GHz can be achieved. Specs Motherboard: Asus Prime Z270-AR CPU: i7-7700K (stock settings for XMP testing, Voltage at AUTO, stock Multiplier) RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 4x8GB 3200 MHz Previous XMP Attempts CPU: - I've kept the CPU at stock settings for the XMP profile. RAM (with stock timings ) : - 3200MHz / @3.502 Volts - 3200MHz / @Auto Voltage - 3000MHz / @3.502 Volts - 3000MHz / @Auto Voltage Please let me know what you think! If you have a solution, questions, or suggestions, fire away! I will provide more information upon request (I wasn't sure what else is needed). Thanks as always!
  4. @NumLock21 Here's a screenshot of all the information you'll probably need.The cards are both under Furmark's GPU Stress Test. The cards are in SLI. As well, they are not overclocked, but the thermal limit is maxed. The card you're looking at is running in 4x Native, and the other card which isn't shown is running at 8x Native.
  5. @NumLock21, thanks for providing a potential solution! When I have a minute, I'll check GPU-Z for expanded information and I'll be sure to tag you. And to all who have responded, thanks for helping me out thus far.
  6. Hey all, Either I'm having a complete brain fart about compatability, or some unknown settings are forcing my GPU's to lock at 8x and 4x Native PCIE speeds. If someone can shed some light on why the GPU PCIE speeds are set so low, and how I may be able to remedy that, I'd be really grateful. My own assumption is that the chipset is limited and my board is just crammed with hardware.. So much so that the lanes have been maxed out. Thanks! Motherboard: Asus Z270-AR CPU: Intel i7-7700K M.2_1 (x4 capable): Samsung 970 Evo Plus (running @2x speed) Sata Port 1: Unoccupied Sata Ports 2-8: Occupied PCIEx16_1 Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080Ti ( set @4x Native) PCIEx16_2 Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080Ti (set @8x Native)
  7. Hey all, I'm curious about what sort of performance degradation is seen when using USB 2.0, USB 3.0, USB-C strips (such as what's shown in the picture below), when plugged into a single USB port. What should I look out for, avoid, or look for in such a strip? I own an Asus Z270-AR which carries a multitude of USB 3.0 rear IO ports, and one front panel USB 3.0 header. I'm running into the first world problem, however, of running out of available ports to plug in some streaming equipment when I purchase them (such as a GoXLR Mixer). My biggest concern is keeping up with the high data demands of my Logitech G502 Lightspeed, my Razer Black Widow, my Steelseries Arctis Pro Wireless, and my Logitech C922 Webcam. I have the aforementioned peripherals plugged into separate USB 3.0 ports to keep those things performing properly. Any thoughts on the matter will help! Thanks as always!
  8. Thanks for the information and data! Asus Z270-AR definitely does have individual fan curves per each header. I had actually overlooked that function and forgot about it completely. I'll go about rerouting the cables to the appropriate fan headers, and manage the fan curves; And I'll let you know about the temperature changes.
  9. Hey all, A bit of a description is needed before my question: My Tower 900 contains an i7-7700k and 2 x 1080Ti's, cooled via a custom loop in series. There is a single 560 mm quad radiator cooling both the GPU's and the CPU. 4 x 140 mm Corsair ML Pro fans attach via pull config (exhaust) to this radiator, 2 x 140 mm fans are attached (intake) to the back of the case, and 2 x 120 mm fans are attached (intake) to the side of the case opposite the radiator. This layout was designed for near(ish)-neutral pressure. 4 fans intake air, 4 fans exhaust air. In order to maintain this semi-equal pressure, the RPM's of all of the fans need to be the same, so the fans are all connected through a hub into the CPU_Fan header on the motherboard, and the fans are set to PWM. Obviously, when I fire up any demanding game, people in my house one floor below think they hear a jet engine taking off in my room. I've grown used to the noise, but my friends over voice calls rarely enjoy the sound of the Foxbat firing up right next to my head. So now, my question: Is it worth the noisiness to connect, to the CPU_Fan header, all of the fans (radiator fans and case fans) which deal with passing the air through the radiator? Or should I instead only connect the fans which are attached to the radiator? Thanks!
  10. Possibly; The outlet is nearly 30 years old, so that wouldn't surprise me haha
  11. Hey thanks for the reply. I might be misinterpreting your suggestion.. We do have a dedicated outdoor power outlet already, but it only has 2 ports and it's a distance away from the patio. It's the outlet we're trying to modify to have it power everything.
  12. Hey all, My family has just finished redesigning our outdoor patio, and we have been formulating a plan for outdoor movie/game nights, where we plan to project the screen against the wall of our house. However, the number of appliances needed for this project will run us into a problem. And that problem is: How can we power it all with just a single outdoor outlet? All in all, we'll be requiring a few specific things in the surge protector: Suitability for outdoor use and can be left outdoors if accidentally forgotten about. That means rain or snow will have to be taken into account. Ability to power consoles, projectors, or computer towers/laptops. Sometimes multiple simultaneously. That means, it needs enough female connectors that are spaced far enough apart for power bricks. Does not mount directly to the wall outlet, as it won't fit since the wall outlet has a heavy metal weather protector lid. Surge protector should instead plug into an outlet via extension cable. If listing off specific items is out of the question, I'd be grateful if someone could point me in the right direction. What brands are reputable? What kind of electrical jargon should I know when searching? As usual, thanks in advance!
  13. Hey all, My recent purchase was an incredibly expensive and worth-while one. The G703GI-XS71 is a one hell of a laptop, and due to that, its 8 cell Lithium-Ion drains extremely quickly, even when tasking it with light processes. So here poses my question: Is it mandatory for users to charge the battery with both of the charging ports occupied, or is it safe for the user charge the battery with a single charging port occupied? I have tested the single-port method. It works, but I worry about it ruining the battery life or causing some sort of chemical imbalance within the battery. Thanks!
  14. Ah yeah that one actually caught my eye yesterday. The issue here is that while the laptop is designed as a 17.3", that's just the screen size. My laptop has huge bezels and a large 1" deep rear vent behind the hinges. So in reality, this backpack is about an 1.5 inches to skinny. Thanks for the suggestion, though! It's a really nice bag.
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