Monster_King

Yeah it reached 2750 and stayed there with 1110mV so I also think it won't go higher. I've never seen it go above 75° with that overbuilt cooler so I think it's already boosting as high as it can. I think I'll just leave it at 1110mV and play around with my older RX 570 instead because that card seems to have a lot more overclocking potential in it. Thanks y'all for the help!

Welp, that broke the AMD software completely so it doesn't even launch, and Afterburner has all of the sliders grayed out now.

I wanted to try and overclock my 6700 just for fun and realized that both AMD's own software and MSI Afterburner don't allow the card to go above 2800Mhz with the sliders. Any way to remove this limit? I had HWiNFO open while running unigine superposition at 2800Mhz and the temps never hit above 70°C so it can't be thermal limited, and I also noticed that it never hit above 158W so there should be plenty of power budget left since it has 2x 8pin connectors on it.

Yeah probably will do that too and just get a cheapo 2TB SSD but that switch option looks like it would work. Oh then that's gotta be photoshop because I very rarely edit photos from that drive. Welp mystery solved. Thanks y'all for the answers, I'll probably just get an SSD to replace that hard drive and put that hard drive in my old PC instead.

I have my Macrium backups on there, my old media folder with digitized VHS tapes and cracked games that I don't play and have no way of knowing if the torrents will be up in 2 years. Also whenever my SSD's downloads folder goes above 50 gigs I just CTRL+A all of the files in there and move them in the folder on the HDD.

I have a mass HDD that I basically just drag and drop stuff onto. I have a 500GB NVMe SSD for boot, 1TB SATA SSD for downloads, pictures, music, etc., 1TB cache-less NVMe SSD for games and a 2TB HDD that I just dump stuff onto when I'm done with it and I know that I won't be able to download it again lets say 2 years from now. My question is basically this: without literally unplugging the 2TB HDD from power, is there a way to just turn it off in software so I can have the PC be completely silent? I have it set up so that when the PC is in power saver mode I don't have any fans enabled and the CPU is at 50°C (basically the NH-D15 does a great job of radiating heat off of it passively) and the noisiest thing in the PC is the hard drive. I have it set up that it turns off after 3 minutes in Windows power plan options but even then it turns on almost immediately after the 3 minutes pass without any access to it.

Uh oh I don't like this

Will try that later today and post the result when I get it (they always have regular support people on the front lines that collect info and then a technician calls back a couple of hours later ugh)

I pay individually since there are only 6 apartments and only 3 as far as I know get internet over fiber (one flat is unoccupied at the moment and the other 2 use 4G I think) so I think it could be possible.

Is it possible for my ISP to change the public IP or is it hard-bound?

I know this sounds weird, Rockstar blocking an IP address, but I tried launching the Rockstar launcher on all of my PC's and none of them were able to launch it in online mode. My main desktop was able to launch it in offline mode only because it's the only PC that is connected to 2 networks at all times, since my ISP sometimes has issues and drops out. I can launch it fine on the 2nd network (4G router), but the second I switch back to ethernet from Wi-Fi, it goes back to offline mode or in the worse case closing and not launching back at all, saying that the Rockstar Games Services are unavailable with an error that doesn't exist anywhere on their support page. I spent a whole day on Rockstar support trying to solve this (they went in circles instructing me to change my DNS settings, resetting my router settings etc., first via their Twitter support then being transferred to the official support page's live chat and then to email, which they promptly didn't reply to even once), and nothing was achieved. Things I already tried: 1. Reinstall Windows on my laptop to see if a clean installation with no modifications works, neither Win11 or Win10 worked. 2. Changed my DNS from Cloudflare to Google then to my ISP's one, none of these worked. 3. Reseted my router to factory settings only inputting the static IP so that I can connect to internet (there is no ISP modem, I'm connecting directly from the switch that leads to our flat to my own router). 4. Tried a completely different router that I had on hand (an old TP-Link one). 5. Connected the internet cable directly to my PC with no switch or anything in between, inputted the IP addresses to connect, internet worked, Rockstar didn't. I'm honestly at the end of the line here. Switching to a different ISP is impossible since they built the fiber lines to the houses on my street thus having a monopoly over the cable TV and internet service over fiber here. 5G internet, even though I have coverage here is not available for some reason, with the different ISPs providing the internet over the same fiber, but slower and more expensive. This is my last time I'm trying to solve this, the next step is to go to the high seas and play that way (offline but at least it f***ing works).

Oh wow I didn't know about this extension, I tried looking for something like this but I guess I gave up too early. Thanks for telling me this! It also started doing this on mobile for me, but I quickly stopped it since I use Vanced so I forced it to 1080p there. Even got it forced on my iPhone using a modified YT app and AltStore.

Tried more randomly selected channels after recording this, all is still at 720p. https://youtu.be/GdDy84zkaLU

I checked the firmware version, it is 80.04.CC.00.03 built on 2014-09-16 which is a real BIOS that I checked. Even the Device ID that GPU-Z shows is the correct one so this probably isn't it. It works perfectly fine on the W10 install that is on it now with the last/latest driver which is 473.81 and very rarely works fine on some installs with 472.12 under W7. I hope this is enough info from GPU-Z, if not, I can go back and screenshot the Advanced tabs.

Last year (at the height of scalper GPU prices) I bought a used Asus GTX 760 3GB for my older machine. It was working fine for a couple of months, but suddenly it started to glitch out (screen freezing, fan spinning up to 100% and a message that the GPU driver was reset, then works fine for a couple more minutes, then the cycle repeats). I tried every single Windows from 7 all the way to 11, tried a couple of linux distro's, even tried doing a hackintosh (lol) but no luck, I even tried every driver version that is available for the given Windows version, until suddenly one install of Windows 10 started working completely fine with 0 freezes, glitches etc. My question is, why is this happening? Why does'nt it behave normally on any other install? This is my project box where I switch the OS quite frequently, so that's the reason I don't just stay on the working 10 install.

The PSU is a brand new Seasonic Core GM 500 Gold, bought on the last day of the year.

Budget (including currency): 30.000CZK Country: Czech Republic Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Rocket League, any new AAA titles, photo editing, casual school work Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): No peripherals are needed since I already have all set up, resolution 1080p@144Hz, going to buy when the laptop dies completely. So as the title says, my laptop is starting to die after almost 4 years of full tilt service. I borrowed a desktop PC from my friend because he is going away for a long time so I got a 5600G with an R9 270 on loan right now. All I need is a good bang for the buck mobo, RAM, CPU, GPU combo since I already have a Seasonic power supply (500W), case and storage (both SSD and HDD).

They are out of my price range, but here are some that are in my my state's own version of eBay. GTX 1080 - ~$500 GTX 1060 - ~$275 RX 580 - ~$320 R7 370 4GB - ~$150 These are the only ones that are around me and way out of my budget.

I don't remember the series but it was an AMD card from that similar era and I can ask what other GPU's they have when I get there (in about 3 hours).

I'm about to pick up a Asus GTX 760 3GB in a couple of hours. Is it a good deal for putting it into an i3 2120 system that I'm also about to upgrade to an i7 in the near future? I will use it mostly for playing Rocket League at low settings (because I'm tired of listening to the fan on my laptop going turbo with a GTX 1050 4GB) and playing YouTube at 1080p.

Oh, okay thanks. Was checking if there wasn't something wrong with the motherboard or something else, so this is reasurring.

It stays at 3.3Ghz.

As the title says, I got an old(er) PC from my friend. It's a Lenovo ThinkCentre Edge 71, with an upgraded PSU to 500W (base was 180W), and an extra fan as a exhaust. The problem is, whatever I do, the CPU is locked to 30W, instead of pulling the max that it can, 65W. Cooler is perfectly capable of handling it, being around 55°C under full load (fan is barely noticeable). Is there any sort of limitation that I don't know about, or is it because of the motherboard? Any help is appreciated.

ASUS TUF GAMING 550B (240V because Europe) sorry for the late reply, I accidentally closed the ltt forum tab and didn't notice it

I'm going to buy a new PSU next week, it'll be a 500W one. Until then, the CPU will wait on a shelf.