Cotroneo

My USB microphone keeps resetting its level back to 100 no matter what I try. I've tried closing and disabling access to the microphone for every program I can think of, and no matter what I google, it keeps bringing me back to the 'solution' of unchecking the box that allows other applications to take control of the device. That has always been unchecked, and no matter what I do, it will ALWAYS reset back to 100. I have absolutely zero clue on what to do, and I wish Windows would include something that prevented that 'level' from rising no matter what. I use Discord, and Steam, and I've disabled anything in the settings that would increase the gain/volume. With every program that could be affecting it, and every Windows feature that would be using it disabled, I still have this issue. I'm ready to give up at this point, so I'm hoping somebody else here has had a similar problem that they found a workaround with. I have a Blue Yeti, so I even tried to physically reduce the gain with the knob on the back of it, but it's still obnoxiously loud whenever I play games with friends.

Yup, I got it to stay changed, and I've tested it on multiple devices as of now. I think what may have happened was it was a one time attack that just changed my primary DNS, which had subtle redirects. Basically a Trojan phishing hijack, if that makes sense.

Nevermind, I just got it to change! Thanks for the help.

For a screenshot, what shouldn't I include? I'm not sure what network settings I shouldn't be publicly be posting. I'm definitely more of a hardware guy than I am a software and network guy. lol Like should I be blurring out mac address, subnet mask, default gateway, etc?

I'm using a TP-Link Archer C3200. Whenever I try and change/save the primary and secondary DNS to something like 1.1.1.1 nothing happens, and that malicious DNS still remains as the primary. Do you think that it could have somehow infected my modem?

What should I be looking for? I'm in the TP Link thing. I also noticed that my router has that '5.2.64.158' DNS set to primary. I'm not sure how to change it, or if it'll even let me.

I only knew that it was a virus because I was on my iPad, and it redirected me to re-verify my credit card. It gets blocked when on Chrome, but I tried it on Safari thinking that it might have been an issue with Chrome. lol Turns out Safari just has substantially worse security; anyway, it redirects to a classic phishing site where it asks you to login (which I fell for since I was on my iPad) and then after that, it asks for my social security number. It doesn't seem to be doing any harm other than constant interference in hopes of phishing, and if it's attempting to phish with such a convincing site, I'm more than positive its only goal is to steal information. I just have no idea on how to get rid of it, let alone identify the source. I should note that it only occurs when connecting to my personal network; my business network, as well as a mobile hotspot 'fixes' this issue on every device (smart TV, iPad, Phone, Computer, etc). So I know it has something to do with my network itself. I'd post a screenshot, but it's just now a blatant page asking for my social security whenever I try Amazon on my iPad. My computer blocks the site, because of Norton, though. EDIT: While typing this, I noticed on my iPad, under Network DNS, when set to automatic it acquires the DNS 5.2.64.158 When I set the DNS to manual, and delete that DNS the settings, it fixes the redirecting on the iPad. Is there any way to globally get rid of that DNS from automatically being set?

Just realized this might have been better to be posted in Troubleshooting. Sorry about that.

So, I'm pretty sure that my personal network has at some point been hijacked to redirect amazon.ca to a phishing site. It affects the ability to use the mobile app, and I can't seem to get rid of it. I've reset my router (had to rename all the wireless, as well create new password for TP-Link). I've already run an in-depth scan with Norton, Malwarebytes, AdwCleaner, and Hitmanpro, and all of them turn up with nothing. Any idea on how to find and fix this issue? It prevents the use of Netflix as well, since Netflix apps try to go through their site, but I'm assuming it gets hijacked, too.

Hey guys. My dad is a big supplier for one of Canada's theme parks gift shops, and unfortunately one of the employees working there put tape on one of the TV screens (the thing where you roll it and then attach a sign to it) that are used to advertise product. The TV's aren't easily replaceable, and I'm pretty damn sure that you shouldn't be using goo gone on LCD/LED screens. Any idea on how we could safely remove the residue? Thanks.

If it works for you, then it definitely is a case of me being a big wuss, fearing that if anything gets within a CM of the card, it'll kill it. I'll definitely try reseating it. :}

Not delidded, and I already was bummed out to find out after I got the 7700K that the temps were toasty. I had better temps in the first iteration of my setup, which only had one bottom intake (the red AF 140), an NF-A14 as rear exhaust, the 2x fractal fans as front intake and a Cryorig H5 Ultimate. Not bad cooling, but it's just strange that the cooling was better back then. I would assume it would be too much fans now, but it doesn't change the fact that my GPU temps have never changed.

It used to be in the other slot when I used a Cryorig H5, but with the D15, it's an issue of clearence. Speaking of the H5, I had better temps with that, but I wound up using it in a build for a buddy. So it honestly might be like what others have said about the paste drying up, or it not being seated properly now that you guys reminded me of the H5.

So my computer by no means has weak cooling, and the picture will show my current cooling setup: 2x bottom intake (The red AF 140mm has been replaced with a matching NF-A14 like the one next to it. The 2 front intake and the rear exhaust are all Noctua NF-A14 iPPC 2000 Industrial fans, and of course the cooler is the distinct, D15. My issue is that the CPU - at stock speeds - will teach temps of 85 degrees when playing games, and temps of 75 with virus scans. I'm never below 42 degrees, no matter what. My bedroom is a nice 'hot' 66 degrees (before I play games), if that would contribute to it at all. Also, my graphics card has no issues temperature wise.

Alright, sounds good. I'll see what I can get for it; I just wanted to know the opinion of others before I put it up for sale.

I figured that the IO on the Formula VI and its overclocking ability was its saving grace. It has more USB 3.0 ports than my Z270-E hahaha. I was thinking around $1200-$1300 CAD?

Hahaha, nice one. That's definitely it.

My buddy gave me his old computer when the graphics card died, and wound up buying a whole new computer instead. Since then, I got a brand new case, a new Noctua fan, and an RTX 2070 Windforce for it. I'm thinking I might sell it and get a laptop, so I was wanting to know what you guys would pay for a computer with these specifications PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant Type Item Price CPU Intel - Core i7-4770K 3.5 GHz Quad-Core Processor CPU Cooler Corsair - H100i 77 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler Motherboard Asus - Maximus VI Formula ATX LGA1150 Motherboard Memory G.Skill - Ripjaws X Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR3-1600 Memory $106.99 @ Newegg Canada Storage Samsung - 840 Pro Series 128 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive Storage Samsung - 840 EVO 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive Video Card Gigabyte - GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB WINDFORCE Video Card $659.00 @ Canada Computers Case NZXT - H500 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case $99.99 @ Canada Computers Power Supply SeaSonic - 760 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply Operating System Microsoft - Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit $171.50 @ Vuugo Case Fan Noctua - NF-P14s redux-1500 PWM 78.69 CFM 140mm Fan $18.95 @ Amazon Canada Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total $1056.43 Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-02-07 16:30 EST-0500 I also included a picture of the cable management since I feel like that should add some value:

Here's another hint, I guess. I found this picture on some blog about Coolers Mater's booth from CES 2011, displaying their value cases. Unfortunately the blog didn't mention the name of the one in the center, but it's for sure that one.

Nope, just 2 grills apparently.

Got this picture from my friend and I have absolutely no idea what model of case it is. This is all I have to go off of, so unfortunately it's all you guys have, too. Really banking on your guys' wisdom. Hahaha

Hey guys, I wanted to know what your guys’ opinion would be on the value of this laptop? https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B015PYZ0J6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_k5hvCbPVX4E0S I bought it at the end of 2015 for some classes I took, but also wanted something for some light gaming (I was pretty pissed with how much better the 1050 mobile was when it came out haha) in CS:GO and Rocket League. Another thing that really annoys me is that Vega 11 is basically on par with the 960M. Anyway, I’m done with my classes and I have an iPad and a desktop; this is literally collecting dust doing nothing, and with the release of RTX laptops, I don’t want it to depreciate anymore than it already has. So I was thinking I might list it on Kijiji/Craigslist for $350 (Around $270 USD)? I feel like that would be a pretty great deal, but I obviously want to make back as much money as possible. So what price would you guys think would be the most I could get for this?

Hey, I'm building a computer for my buddy and I personally use a NH-D15 in a dual fan arrangement (I like that it can compete with some liquid coolers without my paranoia of long-term leakage). I know just how bulky it is — in fact, one of the fans on the heatsink is elevated a bit for RAM clearance. So this brings me to asking if I'd run into any clearance issues with the Maximus, given how giant the IO portion of the board is. I then thought to myself that even though it's a premium board, it might not support some air coolers since I know that Asus expects people that buy the Maximus boards to be using liquid coolers. Anyway, Now that I justified my potentially dumb question, the TL;DR is: Will giant air coolers like the NH-D15 and Dark Rock Pro have any issues with the giant IO of Maximus board.

Hahaha. Sorry, I misread your reply! I read it as you suggesting a 120mm liquid cooler instead of the h100. ? The H500 unfortunately has only one grille at the top for 140mm (why I assumed you meant getting a different rad) which is why I feel locked into using h100 as front intake.

That’s what I’d prefer, but my issue is that I don’t want to spend any extra money since I already have a h100 that’s perfectly good.