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About Cotroneo

  • Title
  • Birthday May 10, 1993

Profile Information

  • Location
    Durham Region, Ontario, Canada
  • Gender
  • Interests
    Tech, Games, Expensive Tech, Dennis,
  • Biography
    Until iBuyPower gave me a hellish experience, I had overpaid for computers. After that experience I decided to build my own computer, but I knew nothing about computers other than the higher the first and last 2 digits of a graphics card, the better it usually is. I decided to take the plunge and ask you guys for help regarding my new computer and how things worked. I expected people to answer my questions while simultaneously patronizing me for my dumb questions, but you guys have been the epitome of friendly AND helpful. So now, I'm somebody that loves learning about computers. :}
  • Occupation
    Grunt for family biz.


  • CPU
    Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz
  • Motherboard
    Asus - STRIX Z270-E GAMING
  • RAM
    G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory
  • GPU
    EVGA - 1080 Ti FTW3 GAMING
  • Case
    Fractal Design - Define R5 (Titanium) Windowless
  • Storage
    Samsung - 850 EVO 500GB, Crucial - MX300 1.1TB, Seagate - Barracuda 2TB
  • PSU
    EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 750W
  • Cooling
    Noctua - DH-15 (Dual Fan)
  • Keyboard
    Corsair - K95 Platinum RGB
  • Mouse
    DeathAdder Chroma
  • Sound
    Razer Surround + ATH M50X, Bose QC35 (Bluetooth)
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Home 32/64-Bit

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. My USB microphone keeps resetting its level back to 100 no matter what I try. I've tried closing and disabling access to the microphone for every program I can think of, and no matter what I google, it keeps bringing me back to the 'solution' of unchecking the box that allows other applications to take control of the device. That has always been unchecked, and no matter what I do, it will ALWAYS reset back to 100. I have absolutely zero clue on what to do, and I wish Windows would include something that prevented that 'level' from rising no matter what. I use Discord, and Steam, an
  2. Yup, I got it to stay changed, and I've tested it on multiple devices as of now. I think what may have happened was it was a one time attack that just changed my primary DNS, which had subtle redirects. Basically a Trojan phishing hijack, if that makes sense.
  3. For a screenshot, what shouldn't I include? I'm not sure what network settings I shouldn't be publicly be posting. I'm definitely more of a hardware guy than I am a software and network guy. lol Like should I be blurring out mac address, subnet mask, default gateway, etc?
  4. I'm using a TP-Link Archer C3200. Whenever I try and change/save the primary and secondary DNS to something like nothing happens, and that malicious DNS still remains as the primary. Do you think that it could have somehow infected my modem?
  5. What should I be looking for? I'm in the TP Link thing. I also noticed that my router has that '' DNS set to primary. I'm not sure how to change it, or if it'll even let me.
  6. I only knew that it was a virus because I was on my iPad, and it redirected me to re-verify my credit card. It gets blocked when on Chrome, but I tried it on Safari thinking that it might have been an issue with Chrome. lol Turns out Safari just has substantially worse security; anyway, it redirects to a classic phishing site where it asks you to login (which I fell for since I was on my iPad) and then after that, it asks for my social security number. It doesn't seem to be doing any harm other than constant interference in hopes of phishing, and if it's attempting to phish with such a c
  7. Just realized this might have been better to be posted in Troubleshooting. Sorry about that.
  8. So, I'm pretty sure that my personal network has at some point been hijacked to redirect amazon.ca to a phishing site. It affects the ability to use the mobile app, and I can't seem to get rid of it. I've reset my router (had to rename all the wireless, as well create new password for TP-Link). I've already run an in-depth scan with Norton, Malwarebytes, AdwCleaner, and Hitmanpro, and all of them turn up with nothing. Any idea on how to find and fix this issue? It prevents the use of Netflix as well, since Netflix apps try to go through their site, but I'm assuming it gets hijacked, too.
  9. Hey guys. My dad is a big supplier for one of Canada's theme parks gift shops, and unfortunately one of the employees working there put tape on one of the TV screens (the thing where you roll it and then attach a sign to it) that are used to advertise product. The TV's aren't easily replaceable, and I'm pretty damn sure that you shouldn't be using goo gone on LCD/LED screens. Any idea on how we could safely remove the residue? Thanks.
  10. If it works for you, then it definitely is a case of me being a big wuss, fearing that if anything gets within a CM of the card, it'll kill it. I'll definitely try reseating it. :}
  11. Not delidded, and I already was bummed out to find out after I got the 7700K that the temps were toasty. I had better temps in the first iteration of my setup, which only had one bottom intake (the red AF 140), an NF-A14 as rear exhaust, the 2x fractal fans as front intake and a Cryorig H5 Ultimate. Not bad cooling, but it's just strange that the cooling was better back then. I would assume it would be too much fans now, but it doesn't change the fact that my GPU temps have never changed.
  12. It used to be in the other slot when I used a Cryorig H5, but with the D15, it's an issue of clearence. Speaking of the H5, I had better temps with that, but I wound up using it in a build for a buddy. So it honestly might be like what others have said about the paste drying up, or it not being seated properly now that you guys reminded me of the H5.
  13. So my computer by no means has weak cooling, and the picture will show my current cooling setup: 2x bottom intake (The red AF 140mm has been replaced with a matching NF-A14 like the one next to it. The 2 front intake and the rear exhaust are all Noctua NF-A14 iPPC 2000 Industrial fans, and of course the cooler is the distinct, D15. My issue is that the CPU - at stock speeds - will teach temps of 85 degrees when playing games, and temps of 75 with virus scans. I'm never below 42 degrees, no matter what. My bedroom is a nice 'hot' 66 degrees (before I play games), if that
  14. Alright, sounds good. I'll see what I can get for it; I just wanted to know the opinion of others before I put it up for sale.