Yasashii

Reseat the graphics card, make sure there's no dust in the PCIe slot while you're at it. Also, check if your DP/HDMI cable is tightly inserted in its port both on your graphics card and your monitor.

Still smells like it might still be a driver issue. Re-installing graphics drivers doesn't really fully clean them out. run this: https://www.guru3d.com/files-details/display-driver-uninstaller-download.html Note that after this software has done its job you will have no running driver and you might get a very low-res desktop. That's normal. Have the newest stable version of graphics drivers ready to install on your desktop and install them afterwards.

Yes. Go to Windows Security > Virus & threat protection > Scan options, select "Full scan" and click "Scan now".

Run MemTest86 to check for RAM errors. Also provide a screenshot from CPU-Z "Memory" tab.

Can you provide screenshots of 1 or 2 of the error messages you get?

What do the error messages say? Perhaps some important files are missing for some reason. Download and install this: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=35

Go to Control Panel\Hardware and Sound\Power Options\Edit Plan Settings, select "Change advanced power settings" and verify if Processor power management > maximum processor state is at 100%.

When they crash, is there an error message or do you mean it just goes to Windows without any warning, or does your PC restart? A BSoD, perhaps?

Well, yeah. But for this use case even something as simple as a Raspberry Pi would do the job. And with a laptop my grandpa has paid for all that it comes with: a screen, a keyboard, a touchpad etc. which he's never going to use.

My grandpa wanted a PC so that he could permanently plug it into his living room TV exclusively for watching YouTube videos and reading news. My dad recommended a laptop.

According to this: https://www.asus.com/support/FAQ/1043948/ It's a CPU-related problem. My first thought was that maybe a BIOS update is needed, but then according to this: https://www.asus.com/us/supportonly/rog crosshair x670e gene/helpdesk_qvl_cpu/ your CPU should be supported by all BIOS versions. Reseat the CPU and make sure the cooler is installed properly, with appropriate pressure, and see what happens. Also verify you've plugged in all power connectors marked with number 5 on page 16: https://dlcdnets.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/Socket AM5/ROG CROSSHAIR X670E GENE/E21171_ROG_CROSSHAIR_X670E_GENE_UM_V2_WEB.pdf If at all possible put the CPU in another system and see if it works.

If it powers on and just gives you a blank screen leave it like that for a while. I had a similar issue with my old PC, left it on for a couple of hours while I was googling possible solutions and suddenly I hear a "beep" and the system started booting and it worked fine since. Perhaps it's retraining memory, which can sometimes take a while. Shouldn't take 2 hours but that's what did it for mine.

Here: https://fccid.io/2A542-AIR75

I enjoy mechanical keyboards but find myself typing faster and with less errors on cheap-and-cheerful low-profile membrane keyboards from the likes of Dell and A4Tech. Finally, a Short Circuit video made me aware of the existence of the NuPhy Air75 keyboard which is compact, low-profile, mechanical, wireless, RGB-backlit and, Apple users rejoice; Mac-compatible. What more could one ask for? Well, perhaps that's the problem, but we will get to that. First Impressions The packaging comes with a nicely designed and comprehensive list of the myriad of key shortcuts to change things like the connectivity mode, backlight and sidelight settings, sleep mode setting or to do a factory reset. While we are on the subject, no further information is provided on what "sleep mode" is but the keyboard will automatically power-off after 30 minutes of idling regardless of that setting so... your guess is as good as mine on that one. And on reverse of the aforementioned key shortcut list there is a picture of an anime-style waifu. And she's on the box art. And there are stickers with her included as well. For some a nice touch, for others a very tired "oh come on! does everything have to be gamer-y?", as when you take a look at the keyboard itself, it really doesn't look like a gamer-focused product, does it? Incessant need of marketing teams to please everyone notwithstanding, the board itself screams quality. The frame is aluminium. The caps are PBT and the design itself brings memories of the gray-and-white keyboards of old, but with a modern, designer twist. Connectivity You can connect the NuPhy to up to 5 devices at a time. 3 via bluetooth 5.0, 1 via the 2.4 Ghz wireless dongle and one through a USB C cable (included). I immediately opted for the 2.4 GHz connection as it allows for low-latency input for the occasional gaming session. The range is abysmal, though. If you get up from the desk and carry the keyboard around even a pretty small room you will experience missed keystrokes and delays. But all that could be forgiven. You're supposed to use keyboards at a desk, right? Well, if the dongle is any further than about 10 cm from the keyboard, the input becomes inconsistent. I kid you not. If you have a desktop PC that's sitting on the floor you might have to run an extension USB cable for the dongle. At that point, is it really wireless? You might as well plug in the included USB C cable. Battery Life The Air75 uses an internal battery that you can charge with the USB C cable. You can use the sidelight to view current battery status but it’s not particularly useful as it’s going to show green throughout almost the entire charge and will suddenly start blinking yellow if it’s running low, at which point you have maybe 2 minutes to plug it in before it’s dead. So, by all means you may get caught while playing an online match or doing time-sensitive work. For my typical use one charge is enough to last a week, and that’s more of the same of what I’ve read other users report online. They also report that after a few months of use the battery is only good for a day, so I guess I’ll get to find out eventually whether my wireless keyboard is even less wireless than 10 cm from a dongle. Typing Experience Upon plugging in my $110 keyboard eager to get full enjoyment from a more pleasant, better typing experience to cheap, low-profile membrane keyboards I’ve grown to tolerate I… immediately hated it. At least at first. The keycaps are shorter than on “standard” mechanical keyboards, yes. But other than that, no immediately obvious consideration was put into adjusting the shape to the form factor. The surfaces of keys ended up becoming larger, but they are still right next to each other as they would on a standard board. That results in your fingers catching on neighboring keys as you type, which then results in accidental keystrokes. That, I believe could be alleviated if the surfaces of the keycaps were slightly smaller, so that they would taper towards the top a bit more, or if their overall sizes were a little smaller thus creating small gaps between keys. But here we are with a shape that could be described like this: imagine a standard height keycap and slice it in half horizontally. Overall, now that I spent a few weeks accustoming myself to the quirky shape of the keycaps I’m feeling rather satisfied with the experience, though I wouldn’t call the NuPhy Air75 the best keyboard to type on. As for the switches, you get a selection of red, brown or blue mechanical Gaterons. I’ve opted for the browns and they feel perhaps somewhat more linear than some other brown switches I’ve experienced before, though I would still describe them as perfectly fine. The switches are hot swappable, made even easier by the included keycap and switch removal tool, so that’s neat, I guess. 3 additional switches are included but only one can go bad before you need to spend money on replacements, though, as they are 1 of each kind, not all three of the variant you selected upon purchase. Bells and Whistles You also get individual RGB lighting with a variety of modes you can select through proper keyboard shortcuts. That’s fine, but the keycaps don’t have shine-through characters so the light doesn’t actually light them up. And while during the day you may taste the RGB rainbow just fine, at night it won’t actually do anything to help you see the keys. All in all, the RGB lighting on this keyboard has the distinct stink of an afterthought. On top of that you get two sidelights that also feature a few switchable lighting modes, but can be turned off in which case the left one serves as a caps lock indicator and the right one can be a battery indicator if you so desire. Function keys serve also as media controls and buttons for basic operations such as changing the brightness of your screen or, rather annoyingly, bringing up Teams. That last one will minimize whatever full-screen application you may be running so that’s not exactly well thought-through. My understanding is the optional software you can download from NuPhy’s website should allow you to modify the behavior of function keys but I haven’t been able to try it out because the software would not detect the keyboard. At least I think that’s what was going on. Clicking on the tray icon did absolutely nothing. Windows would even warn me upon running the installer for it that it’s unrecognized software. So, I guess it’s not ready, to put it kindly. If you don’t want your keyboard to lay completely flat you might enjoy the nice magnetic snap-on rubber feet that raise the back a bit for improved typing comfort, if that’s how you like it. If you’re willing to pay extra $19 you will receive a carrying case, but note that it doesn’t include a space for the aforementioned rubber feet or the 2.4 GHz dongle. All Things to All People? That’s probably what the marketing team wanted and probably not what the engineers wanted. It’s a serious, high-quality product. It’s compatible with Macs. It’s gray and white or gray and other different gray, depending on your choice at purchase. But there’s an anime girl on the packaging, on the manual leaflet and there are anime girl stickers in the box. It’s a product for professionals, but there’s RGB lighting. It’s wireless but instead of doing one type of connection properly (and if they were to fully go ahead with the “it’s for gamers and has waifus and RGB” rhetoric that should probably be the low-latency 2.4 GHz connection) they did multiple ones poorly. It’s an expensive product for people with expensive tastes but includes a cheap-toy-tier battery, an even worse status indicator and software that doesn’t work properly months after release of the product. But put the identity problem aside, is it worth recommending? Honestly, knowing what I know now I would have gone with something different for that money. But then, what would that be? If you need it to be a 75% compact, low profile, mechanical and low-latency wireless this, I believe, is your only option, as others only support a Bluetooth connection or are bigger.

Hi. I have an MSI Leopard 10SCXR laptop. After the external screen turns off automatically (when the minutes specified in power settings elapse) the audio devices in displays connected via DisplayPort disappear and windows switches to the built-in Realtek audio device. The audio device in my external display no longer appears when I try to select it from the "Select a sound output" menu. The only way to bring the audio device back is a reboot. Same thing happens if I connect to my TV. More annoyingly, if I plug it in after the system has booted up, the audio device in my TV won’t show up at all. I have to reboot with the TV plugged in for it to “see” the audio device. It should be noted that in both cases video works just fine. I’m currently on Windows 11 pro 64-bit. Exactly the same behavior occurred on Windows 10 pro 64-bit. My external display is connected via a Mini DisplayPort to DisplayPort cable and my TV is connected via a Mini DisplayPort to HDMI adapter and then an HDMI cable. I don't connect my TV straight to the HDMI port on the laptop, as it's not HDMI 2.0 and doesn't support 4K 60Hz. I use the “extend” display setting when using the external display, and “second screen only” for the TV. I’ve also tried switching back and forth between “PC screen only”, “extend” and “second screen only”. Doesn’t bring the audio devices back. I think the issue occurs because the laptop uses integrated Intel graphics as default, and only switches to the Nvidia dedicated GPU when running games etc. Upon waking the displays after they turn off, the screens blink a few times both on the internal and external displays, so I think it goes “ok, turn on the internal display. Done. Oh wait, there’s an external display, switch to that. Done. Oh wait, the user wants the “extend” option. Do that. Done.” and somewhere in that process it “forgets” to re-enable any audio devices those displays might have. The only workaround I’ve found so far is to set the time until display is turned off to “never”, but that is not optimal as sometimes I would like to leave the PC running without the displays on for a while when downloading a large game update, for instance. Has anybody experienced a similar problem and come up with a better solution? Thanks.