Arttu89

If your phone is capable of creating a 5GHz wifi hotspot you could test it that way while you wait for the new router.

Normally you shouldn't have to enable anything, it should just work and detect any 5GHz wifi networks it has access too. How do you know that the 5GHz on the card is not working?

H (Henry) is an inductance unit, so that would be an inuductor (capacity units are Farads and the letter for that is F ) You might be able to get it back to life just resoldering the broken bits as long as there is no other damage that might not be visible with the naked eye i.e. damage to the main GPU die or memory. Soldering small components on a GPU board requires quite a bit of skill and given all the components around the broken bits this one might prove difficult if you don't have the right equipment for the job, but on the other hand you can't make it any worse at this point. ? I'd start with cleaning off all that dust before you proceed though, it might be what caused the problem in the first place and the damaged components are just the outcome of a short.

You can most definetly mix diffrent cards, you just can't SLI them, you can even mix AMD with NVIDIA if you like. Back on topic: The above video might also clear this up a little, you can do a setup you want, but you have to keep mindful of setting/choosing the prefered graphics card for each application you open. This is a bit of a hassle as like with everything on Windows you can get the occasional hiccups, but it should generally give you the result you want. Although instead of playing around with 2 graphics cards and 3 monitors, I'd just replace the 970 with a 1660/2060 and plug all 3 monitor into that for simplicity's sake.

Given all other variables to be equal (memory speed, CAS latency, chip quality, etc.) in theory there should be no diffrence, in practice 2x 4GB sticks will usually edge out the 4x 2GB sticks (given the same memory speed and latency values), but it won't be a noticeable diffrence in day to day work.

Found it!

To coat the area around the CPU die, in case the liquid metal flows over and shorts some resistors out. I know Gamers Nexus did a piece on what you should watch out for with nail polish, but I can't find it right now.

It's also possible that your 2nd M.2 slot has to be enabled in the BIOS, did you check for that?

I would try reseating the CPU, it might not bring the dead RAM stick back to life, but if you're lucky it might revive the faulty slot, other than that you can only replace the mobo.

Is there any particular reason you're asking? Like others said normally it won't make any diffrence which ports you use, but if you're experiencing any issues with your drives as they are, knowing that would help us give you a better answer.

I'd be quite reluctant of using any adapters, since the molex connection is used to power the hub and not the fans directly, depending on how the hub is designed internally you might end up with issues with the RGB functionality.

In short, due to Intel having trouble with keeping up sufficient supply of the 14nm Coffeelake CPUs, they had to free up some manufacturing capacity and moved some of their chipset production off 14nm and back to 22nm thus creating the B365 chipset, which is kinda lika the B360 with some small feature changes along with being manufactured in the older 22nm proccess.

What Skiiwee29 wrote, and beyond that if there's anything I can add: 2: When you do look inside your PC, you can check for staining on and around the cooler (around the fittings in particular) and directly underneath it, some cooler liquids might leave residue after they dry up so you might be able to see potenatial problem spots. 3: If you noticed a leak, turn off your PC, disconnect the power and clean it off asap also make sure that it actually came from the cooler and if so replace it (most AiOs are difficult if not impossible to repair after they leak, so if it leaked and the PC didn't get damaged, replace the cooler). It would be difficult to create any alarms that might go off when a leak happens, as you'd basically have to take into account any surface the liquid might drip onto, which is not practical. Now given all that, good AiOs leak very rarely and usually last a long time, you're more likely to have to replace it due to the pump giving up after some years of use, rather than due to the fluid leaking out.

It still depends on how it's actually wired on a given motherboard, it should usually be described in the manual, what and when will get disabled. i.e. the manual for the motherboard he chose (Asus Strix Z390-F) states that SATA6G_2 will get disabled, but only if he uses the M.2 port running through the chipset in SATA mode, so in theory if the M.2 runs in NVMe mode, that SATA port should still be active.

DMI 3.0 is the chipset lanes.

The short answer in your case is, yes it will dorp down the number of PCIe lanes for the GPU. ? The long answer is, it depends. A CPU has a limited number of PCIe lanes coming out of it and those lanes are sometimes, but not always, shared between diffrent PCIe devices in your computer (depending on how the motherboard is electrically wired and the number of available lanes from the CPU). In your case: - the i5-9600k has only 16 PCIe lanes coming out of it + the DMI 3.0 interface going out to the chipset (which is like another 4 PCIe lines, but operated by the chipset and shared between things like USB ports, SATA drives, NVMe M.2 ports if any are wired through the chipset, etc.) - from what I can see in the manual for the motherboard you chose, one of the M.2 slots is wired through the chipset and the other is wired to the CPU So yes, one of the drives will be taking away 4 of the lanes coming out of the CPU and your main PCIe slot will go down to 8x, however with a GTX 1080 Ti 8x on PCIe 3.0 is still enough to not cause any issues. Even if you went with the 9700k you'd still run into the same "problem", to get more lanes you have to go into Ryzen or HEDT platforms - but you don't have to do it for the system you're building. You don't need more with what you're building.

Right now with TalkTalk, they run on BTs lines. They don't offer the speeds that Virgin offers, but the connections been pretty solid ever since it was installed (roughly 3 years now I think). Here's results from my Speedtest: http://www.speedtest.net/result/7920936714 - laptop over wifi (the wifi on the laptop ain't the best) http://www.speedtest.net/result/7920938274 - PC wired If I remember correctly the contract states 38Mb connection, so the speeds we're getting are about right most of the time, on a good day they go around the 40Mb mark. On Virgin we use to have 100Mb and I can definetely feel the speed diffrence when trying to download something large, but overall I'd say the experience with TalkTalk is more solid than it was with VM. TalkTalks router doesn't look like it's anything special, the wifi coverage from it isn't spectacular, so I'm running a separate router for downstairs anyway, but I've definetely had a lot less problems with it than I had with the SuperHub. I don't play CS: GO myself so can't tell what my latency there is, but in WoW it's around the 20ms mark similar to the speed test. Edit: I forgot to mention, on Virgin my latency (in WoW) used to be usually around the 40ms mark from what I remember with some spiking to 70-80ms, but that was roughly 3 years ago so difficult to say if they got better or worse in my area.

I used to have VM in the past and had a 3rd party router and an older SuperHub set to modem only, but it didn't make a huge diffrence with the connection itself, although it helped when there were lot of devices connected to the home network, the older SuperHub had problems with wifi when there were more than 5-6 devices connected, even if only one was actually using the network. Don't know how horribly bad is the SH3, I was lucky enough not to have to test it. 50-60ms in-game isn't that bad (in Virgin at least :p).

Given all the things you've checked it's hard to advise anything else than reinstalling Windows at that point, also you only mentioned your drivers are up to date, so not sure if you tried this, uninstall the graphics drivers completely and install the newest ones from scratch instead of doing updates, maybe something odd happen with the drivers during an update. Only other things that come to mind would be using a Chromecast or trying to pass the signal through a home cinema system, one that has hdmi in and hdmi out connection (if you by chance have one of those, although if it doesn't detect the TV it might not detect a home cinema either), but both of those things will add latency to the connection, so not perfect if you plan for any online gaming.

I assume you meant a 8600K, the 8800k is an i7 and it's not yet released(it's more of a rumor at this point). You need to get a 300 series motherboard (preferably a Z370 since you chose a K SKU, otherwise you won't be able to make any use of the overclocking potential) for that CPU, it won't work in a Z270 board and the power supply is overkill for the components, unless you plan on some big upgrades and I mean really big (even with a 2nd 2080Ti you wouldn't get close to using that PSUs potential). With those parts you can easily get away with a power supply in the 550-650W range.

The product page on CoolerMasters website says there's and included RGB controller with that case, it probably isn't anything fancy, most likely just basic color/pattern options. Back when Z87 was the current platform RGB wasn't as much of a thing as it is now, I don't think there were any EVGA motherboards back then that had built-in support for RGB so any OS level control over the RGB would require an extra controller, not sure which controllers would be compatible with the CoolerMaster fans though. (diffrent controllers can use diffrent style connectors and/or support diffrent voltage/type of led strips)

Haha, you should've led with that. ? As Mick just suggested you can try flashing the card, it might help. The only other thing would be checking the PCIe connector on the card for dirt/damage although I assume you probably tried cleaning it by now a couple of times. Since you have 2 of the cards it's quite easy to lay them side by side and check for any visible diffrences on and around the connector that could point to a problem area, aside of that it can only be an issue deeper in on the PCB, unless the cards are still under warranty there's not much you can do at this point. If it is under warranty I'd just RMA the faulty one.

Does it run in 8x in single mode even if you move it to the top most slot or do you mean single mode but in the 2nd 16x slot? Even though it would be quite unusual, if it runs only in 8x regardless of where you mount it then it would be a problem on the card itself.

Did you check if it's set to run in 16x / 16x in the BIOS? Maybe it got accidently changed to 16x / 8x.

If he wants to just get rid of the window you can always try swapping the left and right side panels, not sure how easy it would be to source just the side panel. The window on that case should be acrylic so he could probably just paint the window from the inside and if he wants to add a fan it should be quite easy to drill the 4 screw holes and a large circle for the fan to be able to intake air from the outside + get a fan grill on amazon so noone sticks their fingers in the fan while it runs.