megalodonkatsu

Ra Sushi in Abbotsford, Monviso in the Willoughby area in Langley are both great!

1. I did state that I have multiple questions. 2. Drop shipping as a buyer; Is there an advantage to ordering from a drop shipper as opposed to retail if manufacturers have trouble keeping up with demand? 3. Opinions on PC Canada, yes.

A few questions here: Looking up drop shipping gave me a lot information on starting a drop shipping business, but next to nothing from the perspective of a buyer. Seeing as how drop shipping is essentially sourcing directly from the manufacturer, would it, in theory, be faster than waiting for a Canadian retailer to start stocking them? Or would I have to wait until backorders from various vendors are filled and stock levels stablize either way? Sketchiness and a worrying 25% restocking fee aside, anyone here used PC Canada before? Not to be confused with PC-Canada with a hyphen. Looking to get the 3080 Ventus OC and I'm wondering if their estimates are at all accurate, or if I'm better off waiting a month or two for my Amazon.ca order to go through.

Had* a Seasonic Platinum Series Fanless 460* W at the time (not the 430W I wrote, my mistake). According to the review I linked, the 12V rail could carry basically all 460W by itself, so I never did confirm the actual problem and getting my current PSU fixed it anyway. Might've been overheating due to the fanless design? It's sitting in my family's every-day PC with no problems now.

There's another thread about this in the PSU section: It's just something to discuss right now, and since not very many people have a 3080 at the moment, it might be worth it to wait a bit, or just to discuss general power supply issues, etc.

I'm in the same boat (8700k, planning on getting 3080, paired with a Seasonic Snow Silent 650W Platinum PSU), so I'm definitely curious about the conversation around it. It seems mostly to be a peace of mind thing, but I've read that someone couldn't get their PC to post with the 3080 and a 650W PSU. Though I don't have a source for that. Anecdotally speaking, when I switched my 1060 3GB to a 1080, my 430W Platinum rated PSU started to trigger its power surge prevention whenever I played a game for over half an hour. A power meter I used showed my system never getting past 350W from the wall before shutting off, so technically I still had about 80W of headroom. Ended up upgrading to the 650W I have now, so I really don't want to upgrade again. Either way, I do plan on undervolting and setting a power limit; maybe that'll get me just a little bit more headroom for the 3080. The performance loss should be negligible, especially since its a straight upgrade from the 1080 to begin with.

As long as you're not playing games or doing anything graphically intensive, the load on your GPU will be negligible. If I understand it correctly, you're basically asking for a laptop feature called NVIDIA Optimus, where the iGPU is used to save battery life. Honestly, just use your regular graphics card and don't worry about it.

If you're trying to get video out from your iGPU then just plug your HDMI/Displayport or whichever cable, into the motherboard itself and not the graphics card.

Disclaimer: This was first posted in the Storage Forum instead of Troubleshooting because I've outright bought a new drive to replace my SSD and this is more out of curiosity than wanting to solve it. So I've been having problems with my P1 SSD in my Asus UX480FD (Zenbook Pro 14) laptop. Symptoms include various random blue screens with error codes "DPC_WATCHDOG_VIOLATION," "BAD_SYSTEM_CONFIG_INFO," "KERNEL_DATA_INPAGE_ERROR," and "WHEA_UNCORRECTABLE_ERROR". The first time I've encountered a blue screen was on opening the lid, browsing Firefox for a bit, then everything slowed to a crawl and eventually froze. At this point I restarted the computer only to boot into the bios with no drive detected. After a few reboots, I decided to remove the drive and reseat it (works for old cartridge games, right?) with no success. But after a few more reboots, the drive eventually started automatic repairs, although unsuccessfully. Now I could get into the reset menu, but if i boot normally, it stops getting detected by the bios until a few more reboots after that. I could now boot into safe mode, do nothing, and restart, and now everything is "fine" but after a while I would get the second and third blue screens, so I decided to refresh Windows (keeping my files). Everything seems fine after the refresh, but I once again got a blue screen randomly, then it was back to the bios with an undetected boot drive. I confirmed that the problem was the drive itself by putting it into both of the M.2 slots in my desktop mobo to test them, with both slots saying it was empty when I had the SSD in it. Using Crucial Storage Executive, I updated the P1 to the latest firmware version as of yesterday (07/06). The program says the drive is in good health, but SMART values were not able to be shown, and every value was a 0. There were also some I/O errors opening some of the tabs in that program. At this point, I'm really just curious as to what's wrong with my drive; I put it back in my laptop and now it "works" but sometimes still boots into the bios and I have to restart it a few times for it to boot into Windows. Are there any viruses or bad drivers that might cause this kind of issue? Specifically, anything that might result it being only sometimes not detected by the bios, but sometimes still able to boot into it?

Disclaimer: Posting this in the Storage Forum instead of Troubleshooting because I've outright bought a new drive to replace my SSD and this is more out of curiosity than wanting to solve it. So I've been having problems with my P1 SSD in my Asus UX480FD (Zenbook Pro 14) laptop. Symptoms include various random blue screens with error codes "DPC_WATCHDOG_VIOLATION," "BAD_SYSTEM_CONFIG_INFO," "KERNEL_DATA_INPAGE_ERROR," and "WHEA_UNCORRECTABLE_ERROR". The first time I've encountered a blue screen was on opening the lid, browsing Firefox for a bit, then everything slowed to a crawl and eventually froze. At this point I restarted the computer only to boot into the bios with no drive detected. After a few reboots, I decided to remove the drive and reseat it (works for old cartridge games, right?) with no success. But after a few more reboots, the drive eventually started automatic repairs, although unsuccessfully. Now I could get into the reset menu, but if i boot normally, it stops getting detected by the bios until a few more reboots after that. I could now boot into safe mode, do nothing, and restart, and now everything is "fine" but after a while I would get the second and third blue screens, so I decided to refresh Windows (keeping my files). Everything seems fine after the refresh, but I once again got a blue screen randomly, then it was back to the bios with an undetected boot drive. I confirmed that the problem was the drive itself by putting it into both of the M.2 slots in my desktop mobo to test them, with both slots saying it was empty when I had the SSD in it. Using Crucial Storage Executive, I updated the P1 to the latest firmware version as of yesterday (07/06). The program says the drive is in good health, but SMART values were not able to be shown, and every value was a 0. There were also some I/O errors opening some of the tabs in that program. At this point, I'm really just curious as to what's wrong with my drive; I put it back in my laptop and now it "works" but sometimes still boots into the bios and I have to restart it a few times for it to boot into Windows. Are there any viruses or bad drivers that might cause this kind of issue? Specifically, anything that might result it being only sometimes not detected by the bios, but sometimes still able to boot into it?

Asus Zenbook Pro 14 UX480FD, when and if it releases in Canada/US. You've already covered a related product but this specific model might be interesting to know about. Comes with a GTX 1050 Max-Q, which not very many people know exists, and an 8565U/8265U CPU. I got mine at a very good price (outside of Canada) but I have a feeling that if it's released into the western market, price might be a big turn-off for most people. https://www.asus.com/Laptops/ASUS-ZenBook-Pro-14-UX480FD/

The thing is, this hasn't happened before I swapped in my new 1080. And if it's worth mentioning, PCIe cable is also the same 6+2 pin connector; 6 pin for the previous 1060, and +2 for the 1080. Still, thanks for the suggestions, I'll see what Seasonic says.

My computer just cuts out power and restarts, with the POST saying “power surge detected” and something about ASUS anti-surge protection. It tells me to enter the bios, and after a quick restart I can boot up windows and things are as normal for a bit. Also I’m at work right now so I won’t be able to respond much atm, but I’ll try to respond in as much detail as my short break times can let me.

Hello everyone, got a bit of a problem here trying to diagnose the cause of the power surges I've been getting recently. I've currently got an admittedly not-so-balanced system (been upgrading piecemeal recently, and wasn't as knowledgable as I am now). The specs when I built it two years ago are: i5 6600, Asus H170m plus, GTX 1060 3gb, Corsair Vengeance 16gb 2666mHz Seasonic Fanless 460W PSU Against a couple of recommendations, I got a lower wattage power supply, thinking it would be enough, and it was at the time. But I hadn't accounted for wanting to upgrade, especially so soon. I just upgraded the RAM and GPU to: 16gb Viper 3200mHz, and GTX 1080 respectively. I am fully aware that my mobo does not support the ram clocks of my new ram (or the old one for that matter). I am also aware of the 500W PSU recommendation of the 1080, and my 460W, high quality as it is, may not be enough. However, I have my computer plugged into a watt meter, and it sits at 40-50W idle and at MOST 300W under gaming load, which is still well under the "100W below max load" or around "40-60% of PSU wattage load". It should also be worth noting that I did not get a power surge after playing Shadow of War at 300W load, whereas I got it playing Warframe at 230W load. So far I can just enter and exit the BIOS on prompt and restart as normal, but it does worry me a little, especially if it keeps happening. Is there anything I could do to test where and why the power surges are occurring? I also already sold my 1060 so I don't have that available to swap back in.

Thanks for the reply; I have an Asus S46C, bought in Taiwan, so I'm not sure if a similar or different version of the same model is sold here in North America.

Because it is still detected as Disk 1 in task manager, and still prompts "initialize disk" in disk manager. Windows itself detects a drive, but when I try to initialize it, it gives me the error message, "The request could not be performed because of an I/O device error". Other disk manager programs, such as MiniTool Partition Wizard, shows it as a "Bad Disk".

Well I mean, my laptop has a 2.5" HDD and an mSata SSD cache. I've used the laptop for about 5 years now, and its mSata cache has since failed. I've left the SSD in there because I can't get to it as it is blocked off under the back panel. Since I've now swapped out the HDD for an SSD, and I'm looking for a way to permanently disable the cache drive, which again, has failed and is non-functional, in Windows.

My laptop has a 24GB mSata SSD in it, which is slotted in a non-user-accessible spot in my laptop. I've tried to open it up a couple of times here and there when I feel adventurous, but could not figure out how to access the slot to remove it. I want to ask if there is any way to hide it in Windows 10 so that it is undetected by the system while still in the slot. As in, opening up disk manager won't prompt me to initialize a broken drive, and not show up in task manager, etc.

Refresh rate is, yeah, a bit of a stretch so it's one of the things I can fully do without. Those are all great suggestions, in line with my "potential-candidate-but-has-quirks" list; definitely worth considering, especially the Yoga 720, thank you.

I agree completely. This is why I'm here looking for suggestions in case there happens to be a laptop out there I'm unaware of. The Clevo laptops, which I looked up just now, seem a bit too bulky for my taste, but I appreciate the suggestion! I'll mostly be using it for school so the thin and light takes priority, but I'd prefer to be able to play most games on medium/low even, at a steady 60fps, on my break times. So right now, the Stealth Pro seems the most attractive to me, despite the less-than-stellar battery life and heat output, because of its lightweight and slim design. I recall a reviewer saying the Chinese version of Windows that comes with Xiaomi products are indeed Chinese-only. As in, you can't change it without reinstalling a different version of Windows. I may be wrong though, but that's what I heard.

Hello everyone, I'm looking for some recommendations for a laptop for school and light to medium gaming. For reference, I currently have: Asus S46C https://www.asus.com/Laptops/S46CM/ i5 3337U 14.0" 1366x768 resolution GT740M 1TB 2.5" SSHD (upgraded from 5400rpm HDD) (Dead) 24GB half size mSata SSD Cache I'm looking for one that's thin(ish, around the same size and build as my old laptop), light(ish, around 2kg), relatively powerful, and reasonably priced. Now, I know that "the perfect laptop" proooobably doesn't exist, and I'm aware of that "Powerful/Thin and light/Affordable, choose two" triangle, but I am willing to compromise a little bit on each category, but I do hope someone here might know of a laptop, now or being released in the near future, that can tick all of the boxes. In a perfect world, my ideal laptop would have: thin bezels, 14-15" 1080p 100+Hz panel, GTX1050 or better, weigh 1.5-2.5kg, low-key aesthetics, 2.5" drive bay and m.2 slot, battery life >4 hours, and under $1600 Canadian Pesos. Refresh rate is one of those that I know I probably wont find on a non-gaming laptop, but it's worth mentioning. And, of course, price is the one that's the least plausible if I'm to get "the perfect laptop," so I'm willing to, and will probably have to, go above my budget. I've already looked at a couple potential candidates, but they all have some quirks (mostly pricing) that make me hesitate a little: Asus ZenBook UX550VE (too expensive) Dell XPS 15 (too expensive) Razer Blade (heard horror stories about its reliability, and too expensive) MSI Stealth Pro (heat and battery life) GIGABYTE Aero 15 (too expensive) Xiaomi Mi Notebook Pro (Chinese OS that I have to reinstall, weak GPU, import/shipping and handling) Xiaomi Mi Gaming Laptop (bit heavy) Sager NP6850 (bit thicker than I'd like) Custom Laptops (few sites that sell in Canadian Pesos, also expensive, in part due to Canadian Pesos) As of now, I'm leaning mostly toward the Stealth Pro and possibly the Mi Gaming Laptop once its released and reviews are out. Possibly the Zenbook or XPS 15 if there's a steep enough sale. I'm starting in September, so any releases between now and then can be considered. I'm aware that the likelihood of a laptop that completely fits the bill is around 0%, so any additional feedback and suggestions for (or against) the ones I listed above will also be greatly appreciated. Also worth noting is that I'm also considering the Eve V instead of a laptop, or a completely thin and light, non-gaming-able laptop, since, you know, school. But I crave the sweet, sweet allure that is my Steam library. Edit: Recently released is the MSI GS65, which comes about as close to my preferred specs as possible; thin bezels, thin and light, "stealthy" design, 144Hz panel, etc, with only battery life and price being the main concerns. I'll try not to bump this post too much, if at all, but I'll keep an eye out on any upcoming releases that might be a little more affordable, such as a 1050Ti or 1050 version of the GS65.

Thanks for replying so quickly. Here's some more information that might help. For the possibility of an ISP issue, all of the other devices, such as other computer, tablets, phones, etc, can all connect to the internet just fine. It's just my one computer that's having this issue. The network reset command I used was "netsh winsock reset", as administrator. As for modem/router (Hitron CGNM-2250) configurations, I have not changed anything since before this problem started popping up. I also haven't reset it yet, since other people can still connect, and are using it, and I don't want to disrupt their internet. Another strange phenomenon I've been having is that, like I mentioned in the original post, the light on my ethernet port has problems while my PC is powered on. As soon as I turn my PC off, the light is solid, where as soon as I turn it on and it gets to the Windows Login screen, the light turns off, with occasional attempts at connecting. Which leads me to believe that it's a Windows problem. Though I can't quite pinpoint what it could be, since I haven't changed any advanced settings recently, and my last couple of installs were Steam games and Mass Effect Andromeda on Origin, which hopefully haven't changed any administrative settings.

Hey everyone, longtime LTT viewer first time poster here! Let's start with my specs: 64 bit Windows 10 Home CPU: Intel i5 6600 Motherboard: Asus H170-Plus GPU: Asus Dual GTX1060 3gb RAM: 2 x 8gb Corsair Vengeance GDDR4 Boot Drive: Adata SP550 240gb SSD Data Drive: Crucial MX300 525gb SSD PSU: Seasonic Platinum 460 Fanless I'm trying to identify what's going on with my ethernet port and internet connection. The problem itself is that my internet line would seemingly randomly disconnect, and reconnect, in irregular intervals. In trying to diagnose this, I've done the following: switched cat 6 cables twice, (so I don't think it's a problem with the cable), switched ports on my router/modem (other computers on my network can connect just fine in all the ports, so it shouldn't be a problem with the router or modem), reset network settings via cmd, (following a google search; I don't completely understand the function, but I've a slightly-more-than-basic-but-not-expert idea of what it did) and of course, Windows Network Diagnostics, which says an ethernet cable isn't plugged in. All of this leads me to believe it's either a hardware problem on my motherboard, or a software problem in Windows. So naturally I rebooted a few times, and noticed that, while off, the amber indicator lights at the back of my computer by the ethernet port is lit up as normal. Tampering with it, wiggling the line around, doesn't disrupt the light at all. Without touching it, I booted it and entered the bios. Lights still on. I exitted the bios, and the lights were acting up, occasionally on, occasionally off, like I described earlier; in irregular intervals. The network icon would go back and forth between "identifying" and "not connected", eventually staying "Not connected - No connections are available." The most likely culprit, from my limited understanding, is that this is a software problem. So here I am; let me know if there's any more information I could provide regarding this problem I'm having, and thanks in advance!