RastaburyOG

Okay, so I have genuinely done a tonne of looking into this and there is no straightforward and direct guide on how to do this or if it is possible anywhere that I can find. I want to convert a stock Dualshock 4 controller from having a plug and play Micro USB port to a hardwired cable terminating in USB Type A. I don't want to change anything else, just convert to a hardwired USB cable. Reason being the PS4 controller has always been my favourite fighting game controller for PC but no matter how many I have gone through I always end up with the same issue of the Micro USB port being really sensitive to motion and disconnecting intermitently when the controller is even slightly jiggled in my hand. Bluetooth connection is not a feasible solution due to the amount of input delay it generates. Is anyone able to explain to me or at least point me at a guide that will show me how to terminate a USB cable for power and data onto the board? (I'm pretty competent with soldering) Is this even something that anyone has done before me? Thanks in advance

Right but that's not a relevant analogy? If my bike breaks down you wouldn't tell me to use a car instead. I want to use a bike. The Bluetooth system has not been designed to not function properly. It is not working as intended and I want to work as intended so why wouldn't I fix it?

Welp I worked out the issue myself now but I sure do find it encouraging that an apparently tech savvy and invested community thinks the way to solve a problem is "don't fix it. Do something else"

So I wasn't sure if I should drop this in Audio or Peripherals but since it's a Bluetooth issue this seems the best place. Basically, I use a pair of Sony WH CH700N Bluetooth headphones for most things on my PC. I have done for years and they are fine. I am using an external ASUS USB Bluetooth dongle. I wanted to output my PC audio to a speaker and I don't have any analog options so I connected an Anker Soundcore Bluetooth speaker to my PC. Everything seemed to be working fine until I turned off the speaker in order to reconnect my headphones. I reconnected my headphones with no issue and carried on what I was doing. When I went to use the speaker again, I turned off my headphones and connected the speaker back up. No audio. It was connected via Bluetooth but wasn't making any sound. I turned it off and turned off my Bluetooth via the notifications tab (Windows 10). I then went to turn my Bluetooth back on and nothing happened. Required a full PC restart to allow my Bluetooth to work normally again and the speaker worked fine after the fact. The next time I wanted to do the same thing (turn off headphones, connect speaker) I had the same issue reoccur. No audio but it was connected and running as the output device. I repeated the same process trying to turn off the speaker and Bluetooth to fix it all but again my Bluetooth wouldn't turn back on. This time upon full PC restart it got stuck in the "Shutting Down" screen for about 30 seconds or more forcing me to hold power button and hard shutdown. Upon restarting I was put into automatic disc repair and it ended up failing to start correctly at which point I restarted again and all was fine. I reconnected the speaker and it sounded awful as if it was getting a bad signal or low bitrate. Crackly and muffled crap quality audio. I immediately disconnected it. Had the same Bluetooth issue and restarted again only to have everything start up fine like nothing was wrong. I connected my normal headphones instead and no issue at all. Audio is perfect quality and connection was seamless. I have no idea what's going on but I have connected the speaker to my phone and had no audio issues there so I know the speaker audio components didn't get somehow damaged. How is it possible that a Bluetooth connection error caused me to hit an infinite shutdown loop and disc repair? Why did it seem like my Bluetooth module was damaged or messed up only for it to work fine as ever on restart? Seems odd that Bluetooth via an external dongle would be the cause of issues with my actual PC but who knows. Obviously I won't be connecting my speaker to this PC again until I know what's up. If anyone could shed any light that would be awesome. Cheers!

Hey, I don't suppose anyone here knows of any good replacement mesh ear cups for the Sony WH-CH700N wireless headphones? I love my headphones to death however after prolonged use, especially in hot weather or more humid/sweaty conditions, the ear pads/cups get super stinky, sweaty and wet and it's really uncomfortable. I don't want to get new headphones just for this issue since like I say I adore them otherwise but if there is any way I could change out the stock faux leather/plastic ear pads for some breathable mesh/fabric ones that would be amazing! Cameron

Probably between £300 and £400? Not looking for bigger than around 40" unless I can get the size without sacrificing response time.

Thanks man! Will take a look at these!

If anyone has any recommendations for a 4K Television in the UK with the option for lowest possible input delay please let me know! Looking for something that will primarily be used for console gaming including casual but experienced fighting game play. Size isn't a huge issue but it will need to have decentish sound or if you can recommend a good single soundbar option to go with it that would be amazing! Cheers guys!

I am having an issue with my CCleaner installs and wondering if anyone has encountered this as I have not seen anyone else complain of this from my research. As of a certain version number, I cannot remember which one, when I went to update CCLeaner I would download the latest version as usual, run it and after customising my install options I would click the button to start the update and the attached image is what would immediately occur. No progress, no options except close, it's not even just a graphical error as I have waited out the process for over 10 minutes with nothing doing. I have had zero issues doing the same thing on my laptop up to the present day. I have made sure to run as Admin just in case and the version I had installed still worked fine, I just can't update it. Around a month ago I uninstalled and tried to reinstall the latest version to see if a fresh install would fix this. It hasn't and therefore I now can't reinstall on this machine. Any help would be appreciated! I am on an Intel i7 6700K with a 4.4GHz OC but have been on that clock for months with no stability issues at all. I am running a 500Gb Samsung 850 Evo SSD as my boot drive, a 1Tb WD Black (probably) as long storage and recently added an Intel 660P M.2 NVME 1Tb SSD as game library but this issue persisted before I installed that. Cheers! Cameron

My budget is somewhere around £200 ($250 US / $350 CAD) I don't have a massive budget since I already do most of my gaming on a £3000ish PC and I have a 4K and two 1080p monitors for that. I wanted something bigger to do more relaxed vintage gaming and for using my switch when I'm at home.

Hey guys, I'm having a check around on Amazon and there seem to be so many options out there for TVs so I thought I'd get some guidance. I am looking for a 1080p TV, probably around 32" plus. I want it to be as low latency as possible for playing my Switch on and my vintage consoles, my PS1, PS2 etc. No need for help on that front I have all the adaptors etc that I need. Just wondered if you lot could point me at a low latency, 1080p TV of that size exclusively for Switch and vintage gaming. Don't need any bells and whistles or smart TV stuff if that makes it more expensive as this is purely a gaming and Chromecast display. Thanks! P.s. I am in the UK for people sending me potential Amazon links etc

Cheers! All solved now thanks to some very clunky googling. I haven't formatted a disk in ages and totally forgot about it to be honest, all sorted!

I have just installed an Intel 660P 1TB NVME M.2 SSD into my AsRock Z170 Extreme4. I booted as notmal and checked This PC under File Explorer to find the drive and it wasn't showing. I rebooted and ran through BIOS and it wasn't showing there either. I have checked Device Manager and it is showing up there but it says under properties that it was started (disk), configured (disk.inf) but not migrated. Is there something specific I need to do about this? I have no experience with M.2 media so I am being cautious.

I'm aware that Windows 7 is EOL. That's fine for this purpose. If you can suggest a solution that would work for this machine which in my opinion isn't capable of running windows 10 that would be great.

Thankyou for that, I wasn't aware that being EOL meant that no keys existed. I will do my best to find another solution.