FrowningHippo

We understood that part. I think what @manikyath is trying to ask you, is if you are telling us you have a 450watt PSU in your system. Is that what you mean?

You should also look at warnings and faults right before the crash. The critical alert you show is literally showing up because you have to force reboot the PC by turning off the power.

I don't know about you, but I've read some gnarly posts on the Blizzard forums in regards tot atleast the 3080TI Diablo 4 Bricked my GIGABYTE 3080 TI - Technical Support - Diablo IV Forums (blizzard.com). Some people are posting the EXACT issue you're describing. Please be careful. There is multiple reports of people having components dying (from SSD's to Graphics Cards). I am not saying Diablo is the cause. But it could be the trigger. Do the Windows Logs tell you anything?

I guess it matters where in the EU you live. Have you checked multiple retailers? I do see prices have gone up a slight bit at most, but most stuff also is still cheaper then about 6 months ago.

Thank you. That's very helpfull information.

Lower = better. Because that would leave you with more room for the GPU and CPU to spike. According to Toms Hardware: Nvidia GeForce GTX 1050 & 1050 Ti Power Consumption Results (tomshardware.com). This shouldn't really pose a problem when going for the 1050. You do have to keep in mind that the 65watt tpd for the i-10500 is an indication under load. However when boosting that CPU can use up to 135 watt. At that point it's likely your pc will just stop functioning because 135 + 75 + 25 minimum for the MOBO is going to draw to much power. This won't happen all the time offcourse. Only when doing something that demands the entire system to work out. But it can happen from time to time when playing games. Honestly. Now that I took my time researching a bit more. I think you might get yourself more trouble then it's worth. Try getting a 350 watt powersupply if you want the 1050 in.

Since your CPU has a TDP of 65 watt, it's going to be a bit anemic. I would advise you check the Motherboard TDP as well and decide if it's going to be to close for comfort. Regular MoBo should be between 25 to 40 watt. So you'd still be under 210 watt. But there is not much wiggleroom for peaks in powerusage. It doesn't seem impossible.

This looks like a Windows issue. So reseating your hardware isn't going to help. Either give it time or try booting Windows in safe or recovery mode.

Perhaps the GPU has been damaged. Have you tried another video output on the GPU or even taking the GPU out of the system and only trying the on-board graphics? Let's just hope those are not disabled in the BIOS. Edit: Yes I read that you tried the on-board graphics. I am asking if you unplugged the GPU from the MOBO and tried it like that.

You went from random rebooting in Windows to installing Linux? I assume you switched operating systems in between the BIOS update? Or are we talking dual-booting? Can you still acces both linux and Windows? Is the question specifically about this supposed issue with the NVME drive that seems to happen regardless of chosen OS? Edit: Shot in the dark here, but you could try the provided solution on the last page in the last post: Proxmox just died with: nvme nvme0: controller is down; will reset: CSTS=0xffffffff, PCI_STATUS=0x10 | Page 2 | Proxmox Support Forum

Could it be the one it has installed on has the AF version of the 1600? As far as I can see online, the 1600 isn't compatible with Windows 11, but the 1600AF is. If that's not the case then it's strange that Windows 11 installed on that one PC. Perhaps one of your children installed an insider version of windows 11?

Hey. Should we assume the games are played on a 4K display? Or is it just the videofootage that's at that resolution? Edit: If it helps you perhaps a bit: Hardware Recommendations for DaVinci Resolve | Puget Systems

What you can do to find out, depends on the country you live in. The easiest way is to simply take it up with the landlord. Tell them that you tried setting up an internet connection and you got told of because you already have connection. If you bought the flat. It's yours. Tell the mechanic to set up your plan instead. Old plan be damned.

@ChonkerFox is right here. But I have to add: Because you have the BlackWidow Pro v3 I am straight up going to say: If you've tried it on a different PC, and it still does this. The switches are dying and you cannot fix it with (the Razer) software. I don't know if there is other software to delay the innevitable.

It's possible. But like @manikyath says. It's going to be expensive. You need something like this: Thunderbolt™ Optical Cables | OEM Optical Communication Solutions | Corning Linus explains about this cable in here: So, it's possible. With a decent cable. But getting good and reliable hardware is not going to be cheap.

Did you factor in the cost of purchase and the write down as well? Not to hate. I think it's a ridiculous product and a privacy nightmare. As such I was interested but aren't now. I am however still interested in getting AC, so even if it's off-topic. I am kind of curious to see the cost of purchase included.

I understand you're having issues. But this isn't enough information to help you. ntoskrnl.exe is a Windows proces that commonly fails when something goes wrong with any of the PC's components. The Driver Power State Failure can have several causes. Without looking at the minidump (which you could share if you want us to help). One of the most common causes is that one of the cables on the Motherboard and/or GPU is not properly plugged in. Since you recently upgraded your PC. I recommend that you reseat all of the cables in your PC. If you don't want to do that. I could help you diagnose the issue further with the minidump. You'd have to share it though.

I am suspecting an i5-750. Seems like the reasonable pairing here. Unleashing the beast.

It's going to be nightmarish. But you can. If you want to understand more about it, I recommend reading this publication. https://www.rodsbooks.com/gdisk/hybrid.html

Hey. Windows Taskmanager saying that is actually normal. Most games are relatively resource intensive and so in relativity to other system processes running, they use a lot of power. However this normally isn't really an indication that something is causing lag on your PC. It's just meant to make you aware that the game (or another application) is using a lot of energy. Could you tell us a bit more about the lag you are experiencing? Is the lag in an online game? Where you get stuttering and issues with falling behind the other players? Is it lag in a local game where you experience that your input is executed way later then when you actually pres a button?

That depends on the model of your Switch. But in general it's actually a bit hard to do. You can try compressed air, but that might also push it in further. A little pieve of paper with some isophropal alcohol might do the trick, but only if it's dirty. It's lint, it might simply push it in a bit harder. Honestly. I can only think of two solutions. 1. Try miniature tweezers and be very careful not to damage the prongs (it's going to be pretty hard if you can't look inside). 2. Go to iFixit and or YouTube and follow a step by step guide to open up your Switch yourself and get to the SD card slot. Safe bonus option: 3. Take the safe route and contact Nintendo for repairs. It might cost a bit, but it's probably cheaper then buying a new Switch.

That does sound like there is either some debris in the reader or it simply has died. Might be worth trying to see if you can look inside the slot with the card removed. Maybe there is some lint on the contact points?

It might be the slot. Easiest way to check it, is by trying another MicroSD. It might also be something else. Could you tell us a bit more about what you mean with attaching it with the computer? Also, does the Switch not see it at all? Or does it at least give you an error message?

Based on what you're saying. It seems like the Windows Search Index got corrupted. I suggest deleting the index and rebuilding it. That way the thumbnails should be indexed anew as well. Here is a How-To. How to Delete and Rebuild the Windows 10 & 11 Search Index - MajorGeeks

I see. Well if that's the case I've not hated using the KM7120W from Dell. I won't say it's the best out there (if anything I enjoy the Microsoft Surface Bluetooth Keyboard a lot more). But at least it's not so horribly mushy as some other office keyboards I've had to work with. The mouse is decent sized as well. Although the ergonomics aren't the best. I am so used to typing on mechnical keyboards however, that I am a bit of a membrame hater. That's personal preferance though.