EasonIDontKnowAnything

Oh well, yes I suppose I should clarify the pictures I posted above are the ones I managed to capture afterwards. I did get BSODs, I just didn't think to take any pictures. But thank you for the advice on the RAM, yes I'll make sure to keep that in mind if it does BSOD when I try a fresh installation.

Alrighty, thanks. If you don't mind my asking, what exactly is the problem that's causing the BSODs? ...also theoretically speaking how long can I postpone a clean install? Would there be any damage if I were to say...just continue using my PC the way it is?

I tried "Startup Repair" as one of the options in Windows System Recovery but it just said it couldn't repair my PC (refer to the topmost screenshot in the second reply). Unfortunately, fool that I am, I have nothing backed up. Never really bothered to since I never really had the disposable income to get another drive for that purpose, but I do back up a couple of important files in a cloud. Might be a stupid question, but since my OS is on my SSD and not my HDD, a fresh install shouldn't affect the files on the latter, correct?

OS - Windows 11 x64 Installed the OS less than half a year ago myself via USB Intel i5-9400F Zotac GTX 1070 ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC. PRIME B365M-A (LGA1151) MWE Bronze V2 550W Desktop I also feel like I should note that I've had about half a dozen (around that figure, anyway) blue screens in the five or so months I've had this PC. I perhaps stupidly never really paid much attention to them because they were spread out over a number of months and never happened successively (unlike today). https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gdDmb2EvDbJYTR3KjmMfMsyhNY1ts5Af/view?usp=sharing The link above leads to my dump files. Unfortunately, I'm not able to get the files from the "Resource and Performance Monitor". It's supposed to finish collecting data and generate a report in 60 seconds but it's running into the fifth minute now. However, I do have a screenshot of Windows' "Reliability Monitor", if that's any help.

The difference in RPM not a big deal for you?

I only have a couple "modern" games. Insurgency Sandstorm and like Counter Strike 2. Otherwise I play some of the older Total War titles or Football Manager.

I can upgrade to an SSD, I'm just not inclined to. They're just way too expensive even if they are better. For reference, an 870 Evo 1TB is 70$ on Amazon. For someone working a full-time job on the lowest US minimum wage, that'd be about 5% of their salary. Locally the price of an 870 Evo 1TB would be anywhere between 20% to 30% of your salary. So yeah, there's a difference. What's a "clear" choice for some of you isn't so clear for others. On top of that, I'm still saving money for motorcycle gear and I have plenty of other necessary expenses to account for.

Faster in terms of RPM, I meant. Re SSDs becoming more affordable: they sure as heck aren't getting more affordable fast enough where I'm from! For example, the cheapest Samsung 870 EVO 2TB SSD I can find is still twice the price of a WD or Seagate 2TB HDDs, and HDDs are expensive enough as is here.

Hello, hello, hello. Happy (belated) Halloween, folks. (TL;DR = Would it be better to get the Barracuda, which is an SMR drive but faster, or the WD Blue, which is a CMR drive but slower, for gaming and running programs (Photoshop, etc.)) Currently I'm running my OS and a couple important programs on a Kingston A2000 250GB NVMe drive and everything else on a Western Digital WD20EZAZ. The WD is an SMR drive and only 5,400RPM, which was fine when I bought it because I had really only planned on using this computer for browsing the web and storing files. I've narrowed down my choices to either a Seagate Barracuda 2TB SMR drive rated at 7,200RPM or a WD Blue 2TB CMR drive rated at 5,400RPM. I can't find any sellers who have the WD20EZBX (SMR, 7,200RPM) in stock or afford better drives (Barracuda Pro, etc., much too pricey where I'm from). So the question is just this, would it be better for me to get the Barracuda, which is an SMR drive but faster, or the WD Blue, which is a CMR drive but slower? I'd be running games, of course, as well as a couple programs like Photoshop. Thanks to anyone who takes the time to answer.

Sorry for bothering you again but I still need a bit of help, if possible? Don't know who else to ask and I'm not too sure about making a new post. I tried the command prompt shown on the page but it didn't work. It still says that the boot manager is missing when I unplug the old HDD. I did a little bit more searching and came across this thread from someone who had a similar problem as me, but unfortunately I don't really understand the answer all that much... Do I need to partition my SSD for this to work or something?

You are right about the boot manager being on the old HDD, btw. Thx for clearing that up

I hope that's the only issue. So, um, how do I install the boot manager on my SSD? Thanks.

This is what shows up if I unplug the new HDD and try to boot with just the SSD

Hey guys. So I'm using a SSD as my boot drive with Windows 7 on it and a HDD for my storage. The new HDD I just ordered to replace the old one arrived today and I promptly plugged it into my computer. However, when I try to boot my PC, it shows "BOOTMGR is missing". I've made sure that the SSD is my boot device in the bios (you can refer to the picture) and it was working just fine yesterday, so I'm pretty puzzled about what the problem could be. Help would be appreciated :)

I've recently noticed that I can feel electricity through my PC case. It's not like I'm getting zapped, instead it's more a vibration? The reason this is so concerning to me is that it wasn't something that happened before. I did do a quick search about this issue and found a couple reasons why this might be happening. Exposed wires was one, but I checked and there weren't any. The PC not being plugged into a grounded wall outlet is also cited as a possible cause, but I'm not sure that's the culprit since my PC is plugged into an extension cord which is plugged into a wall outlet (that I'm pretty sure is grounded?). Would like to get some advice. I'm not exactly stacked. I can afford a new PSU if that's the issue, but only barely, so hopefully that isn't the issue here? Do I even have to be worried at all? Specs: i3-3220 6GB RAM GTX 750Ti (4 pin) 256GB SSD 500GB HDD CM MWE400W

Hey, so new problem. Ive installed Windows but it doesn't recognise that I have an internet connection. The PC says it doesn't detect a network adapter, and that if I do have one I need to install the driver (can't do that because there is no internet connection). I also have the PC connected with ethernet.

Is there any functional difference in booting from UEFI as opposed to BIOS? What will changing my system boot to UEFI do?

I used Rufus to create the USB (it took a bloody long time). I restarted the computer and went into the boot menu and after that I selected the USB, but this is what I was met with; I think the issue is that I selected UEFI for my "Target System" in Rufus. Can't believe I'll have to redo this whole thing. But I'll hold off until I get your input.

Yeah No. But it was from a Microsoft website.

So I tried to use the Windows USB DVD Download Tool and turn my USB into a bootable drive. But this is what pops up at the end of the process; I did some searching and apparently the issue comes from the fact I am running a 32bit version of Windows, and the version I'm trying to create a boot device for is 64bit. There were people talking about downloading bootsect (or something like that?) and provided links, but none of them work anymore. Could someone please help me with this?

Now, three times in quick succession, the screen went black for about a second and the same popup appeared (shown above). This happened when I got a new notification in Twitter and when I opened a new tab. I've also redownloaded the same driver version. It hasn't helped.

The CPU is an i3-3220, but before this it was a Pentium G620. Intel DH61HO for the motherboard, and two sticks of 2GB RAM with release dates (according to CPU-Z) in 2012. I'm still using the Seagate drive that "came" with the PC, which is atleast 7 or 8 years old? The GPU is a GTX 750Ti I bought used, so around 6 or so years old.

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