PineyCreek
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Posts posted by PineyCreek
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On 1/22/2024 at 8:40 AM, kourbem said:
When people stand or sit on gas lift chairs, they can generate an EMI spike which is picked up on the video cables, causing a loss of sync displays randomly flickering it could actually be connected to sitting on gas lift chairs.
Now, that's an interesting thought. I tried getting up and sitting down several times and my Asus monitor flickered fairly reliably in time with that. The monitor is a PG279Q, connected via DisplayPort. The second monitor, an older ASUS connected with DVI, never flickers.
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What's the model of the converter? I've read DP to HDMI and HDMI to DP converters don't work interchangeably.
Might need an active converter as described in some of the discussion here?
https://superuser.com/questions/1385110/cant-convert-hdmi-to-displayport-root-causeDo you have DisplayPort out from your PC so you could test without a converter?
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What's the model of the motherboard so we can find documentation, like a diagram for what that LED might be? Alternatively, get a better picture to see if there's labeling next to the lights.
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Secretary of Commerce seems to be peeved about NVidia's redesign announcements:
https://videocardz.com/newz/u-s-issues-warning-to-nvidia-urging-to-stop-redesigning-chips-for-china
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4 core, 4GB RAM. Somewhat modern if it has BT 4.2 I guess. I could see if it was only being used for typing and emails, but I still wouldn't go out of my way to purchase a no-name brand despite the price. Vaguely looks like a Dell convertible.
Buy it if you want something super basic and you're willing to take the chance that it's actually worthless since it's a brand with little history. Seems to be a US-based company with most of its business in Africa. Its business is customer support though, so I don't know if this a reseller or where they're getting the machines from, if indeed this is the same Hugo Tech:
https://hugotech.co/about/ -
16 minutes ago, AeroMagnus said:
Probably a bit late for this but, anyother brands/models you’d recommend?
thanks for your time
I used to say you can't go wrong with Samsung SSDs, but Samsung proved me wrong on that with a couple of models. I still stick with them as they're otherwise solid and their SSD management/update Magician app works well for me. Linus has used Sabrent Rocket drives with success in his videos, but I don't know how reliable they are long-term. Haven't heard any complaints about the Western Digital SSDs. Maybe WD_BLACK 1TB SN770 or Samsung 970 Evo Plus? Samsung had some screwups recently with the 970 but I bought one recently and they all come with the updated firmware now it seems...so unless you buy used or from a retailer that hasn't sold them in months, you'd get the new stock. Firmware can be updated quick with the Magician app though.
One more question, is your storage set to AHCI or RAID? (Advanced -> Storage Configuration -> SATA Mode) Should be on AHCI. May or may not be pertinent. Usually causes more issues on Intel systems from what I read.
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6 minutes ago, Matt_Da_Lord said:
The reason I think its an issues is because when I look at the programs open I don't see 26GB being used.
Yeah, as I said, on another look it's really odd to have that much used on startup, notably the In-Use number. I got sidetracked and thought it was normal for a second until I reread that it's happening suddenly today and on startup. Have you checked App History to see what's most active or Details for the full breakout?
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These are my numbers after being up and running a number of programs for a couple hours. I'm running a lot of the same programs you are on a 64GB system with Win11. I agree though after looking through the program list...something else is going on. Are you on Win11?
Granted, if it just started being like this today...check for Windows update history?
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29 minutes ago, AeroMagnus said:
Yeah its a p3….. fuck me
should i return it then right… ? Tried it several times standalone on both slots so guess I’m SOL
Oop sorry yeah im stressed out.. nope don’t see it under any storage or boot menu
Yeah, sorry man, I think you need to get a different part.
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Think that's an Asrock board, not Asus. That aside, you don't see a drive appear in the BIOS when it's installed? Just checking, but have you looked under the Boot section of the BIOS to see if it appears in any slot in the boot order?
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33 minutes ago, SingingBowels said:
Hey there, sorry not the greatest with computers. Just noticed after trying to turn on my PC that it is clicking flashing red constantly until I disconnect the power supply. Any idea what part I need to buy to fix this issue? Never happened before. Computer has not been moved ever since turning on
If this is an OEM computer, what make and model is it? If it's a DIY build, what model motherboard, PSU, case?
What's flashing red?
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At the very least, knowing the model of motherboard might be helpful in troubleshooting.
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So each speaker L/R has one RCA, right? You want to use this speaker pair for both?
I'd get a cheap composite switcher myself. Alternatively if you want both active all the time, just get appropriate 2/1 adapters for each speaker, run the 2 L channels from TV and PC to the L adapter, same for right side.
It could work, sure. Not elegant, but works. Don't think I much like the idea of taking audio from both sources at the same time though. I'd use the switcher for isolation.
A pic might help if my assumption is wrong.
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Up and out you're always limited to what the ISP can provide. Wired has less latency by its nature. Getting 1ms ping is very excellent. Wireless is good if you need that sort of portability. It sounds like you already have a gigabit-capable ethernet port that you're plugged into. Don't bother with the wireless unless you need that portability.
To take advantage of very fast wifi you would need to upgrade your ISP plan and likely the hardware you are connecting to (if the ISP doesn't provide it), and then also buy the card.
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My understanding is that BIOS versions with a letter at the end are beta BIOSes with Gigabyte, but I'm finding this information secondhand in searches.
Also, searching for your motherboard only gives up to F64 on the page I found, but F65 from your posting looks to be just a week later than the release date of F64.
https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/B450M-DS3H-V2-rev-1x/support#support-dl-bios
Maybe it only shows F65 in a different region than the server I'm hitting.
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7 minutes ago, Rui Neves said:
Well, I can keep almost all the SATA drives. I can just remove the 500GB HDD. The thing is, I find myself only using the SSD and the 2TB drive at the moment, the rest are only taking up space in the case.
All a matter of personal preference then. There's nothing stopping you from keeping old drives as backups (in storage, outside the computer) in case something fails as well, aside from extra clutter.
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1 minute ago, Rui Neves said:
No, they are SATA, the 2TB HDD has 7200 RPM. You have a point, but in that case, I do not know what to do with the 500GB SSD afterward
If you have to pick between the drives and only choose one, then I'd take the 2TB for capacity, unless you plan to regularly load music/videos off that drive and can't stand to wait a few seconds for the usual power-savings to spin the drive back up once again. If you can keep two, I'd keep the 2TB for capacity and the 500GB SSD for items you want to load a tiny bit faster but not important enough to put on your main fastest drive that you're using for OS, etc.
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13 minutes ago, Rui Neves said:
It could be an idea too, but it might be slower than using a SATA SSD to access those backups or less important files.
So are your older drives PATA/IDE? Slower RPM? I'm not otherwise understanding why you would keep a lower capacity drive for backups when you have something that's 2TB. Pretty sure the WD Blacks are 7200RPMs while the Greens are 5k ish, so unless you want it to be slower and minimally quieter...
EDIT: I can't read today. Finally registered you mentioned the 500GB was SSD. However, I still stand by keeping the 2TB mechanical drive around. Maybe the others as well if you have space/power connectors. -
The 3050 SFF only has a 180W PSU. I think it might come with a 240W if it had a GPU from factory. The GPU options that came with it were up to an R7 450. So for GPU I would suggest any low-profile, single-slot GPU that doesn't require extra power connections that will fit in the chassis...which will limit you quite a bit. I see here that it looks like low-profile GT 1030 cards or Radeon 5450 would work.
https://www.dell.com/community/Optiplex-Desktops/Optiplex-SFF-mini-tower-graphics-card/td-p/6023730/page/3I guess the questions I have are more along the specifics of your build:
1) Do you have the 180W or 240W?
2) How much space do you have to install a GPU, both free slot space (ex. does the chassis have enough room for a 2 slot card) and card length?
3) Do you have a problem shutting Secure Boot Off, considering the Dell BIOS won't let you put a non-OEM card in the chassis otherwise, from what I've been reading?
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30 minutes ago, Rui Neves said:
Thank you! What do you think about my storage upgrade plan ?
Why not keep the 2TB drive for your backups, etc. rather than the 500GB?
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Seems all good to me.
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Every time a see a question about the Fn key...well, you know.
Is 50°C hot for Ryzen 9 3900x while idle ??
in Troubleshooting
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Normal.