Jay_JWLH

With the help of the DRAM calculator by 1usmus, I have been able to fill in most of the timing settings manually. On their own they work fine. If I change the BCLK frequency to 100, and FCLK to 1800 (the target 1:1 of the RAM), I can get past POST just fine. However when I set the memory to the rated 3600 (with or without the voltage going from 1.2V to 1.35V which it is rated at), it won't POST. I have to take it down to 3200. Even 3400 doesn't work. Any suggestions?

Well whatever it is, I hope it is one of the other two and you can also go on your same journey as mine.

We're both just blind. In the DRAM components column of Thaiphoon, you will see it as part of the part number. Mine was CJR.

I find this out now? I just recently purchased it. On idle temperatures it is making womp womp womp sounds, while ramping up and down slightly. I purchased it because my case could handle the size of it, and the manufacturer seem to claim that it can run silent. My silver lining now will be to just swap out the fans with something as legendary as Nocotua ones.

I'm looking now. The program Thaiphoon has given me some information (such as the fact that it is a C-die, which sucks). But when it comes to selecting the memory type there are three types - Hynix MFR, AFR or CJR. May have to actually ask the manufacturer.

Details first. Motherboard: ROG Strix X570-E Gaming - High tier motherboard, 250A current CPU: AMD 3800X (3.9GHz to 4.5GHz boost, TDP 105W, Max temp 95°C, 8C/16T) AIO for CPU: EVGA CLC 280mm - fans are a bit noisy, may replace them RAM: G.Skill Trident Z Neo (8GBx2, DDR4-3600, CL18-22-22-42, 1.35V) PSU: Corsair HX750 750W Platinum - Fully modular GPU: ASRock Radeon RX 5700 XT 8GB - just the blower style one I'm stress testing the hell out of the CPU using the blend option of Prime95. This gets the following results when things peak: Max temp 80°C CPU power to 107W 89% of 142W of PPT (total socket power) About 10W of SOC power (VDDCR SOC power) 89% of 95A (TDC - sustained current limit of the CPU) 69% of 140A of EDC (peak current limit) Peak speed of up to 4.1 GHz, but it should be able to get up to 4.5GHz, so probably throttling a bit early or not boosting properly I just recently upgraded the RAM to something 3600 MHz, however in CPU-Z it is showing as: Maybe XMP profile hasn't been activated, but I hope to get a 1:1 ratio if possible. Going to have a look into the DRAM calculator about this and check my BIOS. For the CPU: What I'm aiming for is being able to overclock the CPU so that it can boost to 4.5GHz and beyond, while I assume it will lower the power consumption when not needed. I can probably start with using Ryzen Master, but can apply the settings into the BIOS later if things are stable. Any advice or learnings would be appreciated. For the RAM: There are a lot of memory settings that I'm going to have to educate myself on and adjust. May have to even use the DRAM calculator. Mainly looking to have a good ratio to the CPU.

You can, but you may have to find a way to get the driver file for the RAID card onto the installation media, or during install via something like USB. Assuming it doesn't have something included by default.

So doing a bit of comparative shopping here. All New Zealand Dollars. MSI X570 Unify International: 485.50 + 31.79 + 77.60 = 594.89 Local: About 540, stock seems patchy. Note: A bit pricey but seems to be the cheapest GIGABYTE X570 AORUS Master International: 522.97 - Can't get international shipping / Probably used Local: 642.85 Note: Well featured. Triple M.2 slots. Great VRM solution, 14 stages and 50A (I assume that is good at this stage). ASUS ROG Strix X570-E International: 461.23 +29.84 + 73.67 = 564.74 Local: 518.42 If I want better consumer protection, the ASUS is starting to look like a good option also due to the price.

Not just you. Some people mention it even here. Literally just today overseas websites have to collect tax on goods (GST, 15%). I was too slow and Amazon suddenly added $100+ of tax to my shopping cart, so I just got it locally. The playing field has now been leveled for local businesses, and I will probably get less shocked with a bill from Customs to get my overseas package. Doesn't stop me from getting a good deal from overseas since postage has gotten more affordable, I just now have to factor in tax.

Since you are using your OS to handle your RAID instead of an external hardware solution, I can see your concern. If you do go ahead and do it, you should be sure to perform a full backup first to prevent any data loss. Something you should be doing anyway since you have a RAID array that is twice as likely to fail (or you could half ass it and use JBOD). Once you do a OS reinstall, I'm assuming you could just pick things up from Disk Manager, and reinitialise them both together since there is information about the array at the start of one or both disks. I'm tempted to run a VM test it out. Side note: RAID 0 is most useful when accessing large files, but does very little to improve things like boot times and program load times. You may have already done a speed comparison when you set it up to see what it does for each different sizes of data chunks. For things like accessing small bits of data quickly (including booting from it, and starting up programs), SSD's are great.

Just purchased the AMD 3800X while it was on sale for just over 600 NZD, but I need to put some thought into the motherboard. I'm going to go for the X570 chipset since it is the latest (incl. StoreMI, handles lots of connections on the chip, and supports high RAM speeds), however it can be the most expensive. Maybe you guys can help me find a good featured board at a reasonable price since there can be a lot of expensive motherboards out there. Here is a list of the features I'm looking for: Try to keep it at or below 400 NZD / 260 USD, but happy to consider slightly higher. Aiming for a reasonable overclock, so power delivery of lots of VRM's (maybe 12+), and as high a current as my budget can afford Reasonable RAM clock speeds (currently 2400MHz 15-15-15-35 1.2V dual channel, but hoping to upgrade in future as I know it can benefit) Back: Type-C (latest gen), and maybe some other 3.1's (type-A). Front: USB 2.0 and 3.0 headers ( since I'm using an older case), but fine with more ATX form factor - eATX would probably be expensive, and mATX would probably just cram so many things into a small area that some things may be sacrificed M.2 PCIe (not SATA) PCIe 4.0 - latest chipset supports it so should be there by default, but doesn't have to be on more than one slot Maybe, but not critical: 2 or more M.2 slots Don't need: RGB - fine to have if I have no choice though. Notes: I have an older AIO (Corsair H55), which I hope to use until it dies. Feels like it is chugging along like an old car though. 6700K is currently 25-35 °C idle though, quick stress holds at 60 °C. Using other older hardware, just swapping out the motherboard and CPU. You can look at it here if you want. Bonus if it is available on this website, or even this one.

This might be more of a process of elimination. Have you ran any disk checking utilities? You can run one from within Windows at first, or boot off a CD or USB to perform the check outside of the OS if the system crashes too soon.

It is possible to have the board inside replaced, but that would require you to be inside a clean room and keeping the internals very clean. About the only people who bother replacing the board inside would have to be those who do it for data recovery. You do it just long enough to make the drive work again, take the data off it, and discard the drive. After the whole thing has been opened up, reliability of the drive has been significantly compromised. And that doesn't even cover having to get the right replacement board, and the right hardware/software to interface with the drive at a low enough level to be professionally useful. As someone who does like to repair before you replace, I see why you would want to do this. But to find a room in which to do this, track down the right hardware, use the right software, and only to have the drive crap out on you sooner rather than later..... it is probably not worth the effort.

For transparency reasons, it can try to update itself in the background, especially if you restart it or the computer. Only those like me who keep the computer and browser open indefinitely, will it try to ask you to restart the program to update.

If you wanted to be sure that the problem has anything to do with the software side of things, then you would have to boot it off something else (like Linux for example), and then see if the problem repeats itself. If it does, then it makes it a hardware problem that you have to diagnose and fix. What exactly happens when it crashes? Any blue screen? Does input into the monitor stop? Can you run your screen off your motherboard video outputs and see if the same thing happens?